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- Day 25
- Saturday, June 15, 2024 at 8:41 AM
- ☀️ 8 °C
- Altitude: 896 m
SpainChozas de Arriba42°31’39” N 5°40’23” W
Leon (la Virgen del camino) to Hospital

An early start for what promises to be a long day however for various reasons we decided to get a head start by taking a taxi to the outskirts of Leon - a place called La Virgen del Camino. To be honest I was feeling very guilty about this loss of 7k but given that I walked over 32k today I think it was probably for the best. Regardless I have a bit of a swollen ankle. This doesn’t hurt at all and has benefited from the hammocks and the yoga room at Casa Verde where we are staying tonight but unfortunately something I need to keep an eye on. While we’re on the boring subject of injuries the left knee problem has disappeared completely which I’m very happy about.
Cress and I took different routes today. I decided to take the longer one which avoids the roads and takes you right out into the countryside. I started walking around 6.45 having failed to find anywhere open for coffee in La Virgen del Camino. The temperature was an icy 7c with a strong wind right from the start. But a bright blue sky all day. The walk was immediately beautiful but my hands were so cold they were painful.
Passed a couple of villages where nowhere was open and then finally came to Oncina de la Valdoncina where I recognised a place where Caroline and I had breakfast last year (outside, when it was 20c warmer!). Although it didn’t look open I took a chance and pushed the door and found that they were just about open. They were kind enough to give me a coffee (2 in the end) and some tortilla and I gradually warmed up.
Continued on, seemed to be the only person in the world, until finally came across Ginnie and Scott from Oregon. They were walking roughly the same speed as me so we talked for a while.
After leaving them Peter Jacob, a cyclist from Holland (who has cycled from Holland) stopped cycling and walked with me for a while. Interesting chat about his trip, people he has met and about The Peter way - a walking route from north to south Holland. Will be looking into this!
I was ready for another break in Vilar de Mazarife but arrived a bit early and found the shop still shut. There talked for a while to an elderly lady, Conchita, who was very concerned that I had t got a coat. Explained that what I was wearing was all I had but I was warming up and would be fine.
Wildlife today started with rabbits, continued with storks following the tractors and the whole time accompanied by the croaking of frogs from the ditch that ran along the right side of the path.
I was walking for a long time but it was fairly level terrain and I was feeling very happy. Lots of time to myself interspersed with interesting conversations with people I will probably never see again. Camino life!
Arrived at Casa Verde around 2.30. My favourite hostal (tho again had trouble finding it). Since arriving I’ve showered, done my washing, relaxed in a hammock, done some yoga and stretches in the yoga room and eaten a delicious vegetarian dinner prepared with ingredients from the garden here. Perfect.
Only three of us here tonight - we have had a very Spanish speaking evening (good for my Spanish) with a woman from southern Spain with a very strong andaluz accent. So I could understand some but by no means all. It was an intersection evening. Don’t think we’ll see her again as she’s walking 40 k a day despite injuries.
So tired now so hoping for an early night.
Forgot to add that it was a day of doors- too many to add them all.
And listen to the sound on the video - frogs croaking!Read more
Traveler
I love the frogs!
TravelerOmg we had the same experience couldn’t get a coffee to save our lives!! My fingers were so cold!