Trabadelo to Fonfria

Oh my goodness this was a long one with two big climbs. The first, up to O Cebreiro, was long but on the whole not too steep. The second, after lunch, which always feels worse anyway, was very very steep but not too long with a cafe at the top. An Italian woman who came up just after us looked thoroughly shocked and the only thing she could say was “madre mía!”
We started early. I woke up just after 5 and gathered my stuff up and left the dorm so as not to wake our fellow residents. We were ready to leave at 6 and walked out into the dark. Had to be quite careful about checking the way at first but it soon became lighter although stayed very cold for a couple of hours as we were in a deep valley that the sun couldn’t reach until quite a while after sunrise.
Found first coffee and a good croissant in a bakery around 7 and then had a second coffee in Las Herrerías.
Then it was onwards and upwards through the most exquisite scenery in the most perfect weather conditions to O Cebreiro.
O Cebreiro is undoubtedly my special place on the Camino. I went straight into the tiny church and immediately all the emotions I felt last year came flooding back. Last year we stayed in O Cebreiro and went to the pilgrim mass conducted by a very special Franciscan priest. This year we started by talk g to the lady who was stamping the pilgrim passports. She then gave us a tour of the church explaining all the miracles that had happened there and I explained that this place was very special for me. She asked if I would like a blessing from the priest and obviously o said yes. I found I had tears pouring down my face and they were so kind. We both had a special blessing and both gave me a big hug which was much appreciated. I really don’t know what it is about that church. It’s tiny and very simple and unassuming but for me it’s one of the most important places. It remains hugely important to me.
After the church we ate and had a drink (no alcohol obviously because still had a long way to go) but it was a lovely place with lovely weather and it was very hard to move on.
Eventually we did, probably later than we should have done. Unfortunately it’s not all downhill from O Cebreiro. The path undulates for a while and then goes up to two more peaks, the second, Alto de Poio even higher than O Cebreiro. This fell very hard so late in the day and in the end we didn’t arrive until around 4.45.
But the hostal is good and the wine even better so all good. We have a communal dinner tonight, three courses with wine, bread and coffee for €14. Vegetarian no problem.
Lots of characters on the path today including Bernie from Austria again. He seems powered by beer and weed - he’d definitely had at least four large beers before reaching O Cebreiro and seemed to be stopping at every bar after that for another one. He’s definitely quite a character.
Great dinner in the Palozzo with Simon (uk) Ryan and Kyle (us - New Jersey) and Ivan (Croatia ) (see picture) and lots of Italians. The glass of ribeiro I finally achieved at about 5.30 was so so good. After 32k I was ready for a drink! Czytaj więcej