In Santiago

I think we must be staying in one of the worst hotels in Santiago - fundamentally no air. But other than that I had a great day in Santiago.
Cress and I went for breakfast at Ratiños Coffee shop - huge bowl of yoghurt with fruit and granola - then went out separate ways for the morning.
I went back to the Pilgrim Office for the English mass at 10.30 and then to the cathedral for the mass at 12. Both wonderful a dm very moving. As always lovely English speaking volunteers at the English mass and interesting pilgrims from all over the world who had walked a variety of routes. At the Cathedral mass I was lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro swung - can be quite a rare occurrence but I was reasonably confident that Friday midday would be a good bet (see the video - and keep watching until it swings really high). Together with the music and the atmosphere with hundreds of pilgrims it was very moving. I happened to sit just behind the Japanese man I talked to in San Domingo which was great. I was sitting on a pillar base but happy with that!
After the mass, for the first time I queued to ‘embrace the saint’. This involves going through a tiny entrance sort of under the alter where there is a very sacred space and then climbing up behind the alter to, basically, hug the statue of saint James. I’ve never actually done this before in my three visits so felt I should.
Then lunch with Cress at a great veggie cafe A Porta Verde - delicious salad and falafel with kombucha to drink. There followed an afternoon of shopping (presents for the kids, Santiago cake etc and looking for clothes for cress to wear to a wedding in August) and then supper at Entra Pedras with David cress and Terri - last time before we all go out separate ways tomorrow. Bernie from Austria remained at the same bar all day - saw him each time we passed - but he did look very happy!Read more