• Brent Perdue
July 2024

Türkiye

A 22-day adventure by Brent Read more
  • Trip start
    July 8, 2024

    Getting there

    July 9, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    After Shutterfly shut down their web hosting service that served as our platform for travels, I was planning to lay low this trip. Well, that doesn’t seem to be happening. So, hold on, we have some catchin’ up to do!

    Leaving at the reasonable hour of 11:30am suited us well after many a trip that saw us arriving at the airport before most people were still in heavenly slumber.

    Leaving our trusty Subaru in the Economy lot (21 days is a lot of parking!) we grabbed the shuttle to the terminal. Through security in a flash, gotta love Spokane, and on to our gate to begin our 3-plane, 23+ hour travel day.

    I only found about an hour of sleep on the trip across the pond and an additional 30 minutes from Amsterdam to Istanbul. Kim and Myah found better success in grabbing some Zzzs while Brendan fared about the same as me.

    The only things of note during our air travel was Myah's seeking of a commitment that we visit the Netherlands in the future for more than a view of the inside of their international airport and the shudder that went through the plane when a flight attendant announced that due to a luggage handling breakdown, none of the checked luggage had made it aboard the plane! Now we know why we were late taking off and this is exactly why we always travel carry-on only!
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  • Istanbul Day 1

    July 10, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    We arrived a couple days ahead of our tour so that we could explore one of the most iconic cities in the world.

    We arranged a walking tour with a local guide on day 1 who started things off at the UNESCO World Heritage Site the Blue Mosque. This house of worship was constructed in the early 17th century as a power play to rival the nearby Hagia Sophia mosque. The sultan wanted “his” mosque to be the tallest around but his architects could not figure out how to make it happen. So instead, they decided to add additional minarets so that the Blue Mosque would have a total of 6 while the Hagia Sophia would be stuck with the paltry sum of 4.

    We then moved on to learn about the Hippodrome where citizens would watch chariot races and cheer wildly for their favorite team.

    My favorite morsel of history here was about the huge decorative pillars that lined the interior of the track. I couldn’t imagine placing something in the middle of a track which would block the view of the fans. But, according to our guide, it was done purposely to increase excitement as the racers would come in and out of view.

    Next, we visited the Basilica Cistern which is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. These water filtration and storage facilities are something to behold. Storing the water underground not only helped with evaporation, but also helped prevent invading armies from poisoning the water supply so easily as they fight to overthrow a city.

    We finished the day at the

    Grand Bazaar, the largest one of its kind in the world. With 22 gates and over 3,600 shops, you can find just about anything you desire!
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  • Istanbul Day 2

    July 11, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    We booked a day tour through our travel company to get off the beaten path travel deeper into Istanbul, discovering diverse and lesser-visited districts. We walked along the ancient Constantinople city walls; sawTekfur Palace(the Blaherne Palace) which has thick walls adjacent to the landwalls; strolled through the photogenic Fener (Greek) and Balat (Jewish) districts, known for their colourful wooden houses; and cruised the Bosphorus Strait for stunning views of Ottoman palaces and the city skyline. We finished with a visit to the famous spice market, which is located near the original port of Istanbul.

    While visiting a Jewish Synagogue and later a Christian Orthodox Church, I asked our guide how long Türkiye has been a majority Muslim country (currently 99% Muslim). He shared that just 100,years ago, only about 50% were Muslim. But, Türkiye allied with Germany in WWI and as you know, chose the wrong side. This led to some forced migration and lots of immigration as the country was occupied.
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  • Istanbul Day 3

    July 12, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Today is reserved mostly for travel after checking out of the hotel. We did have a few hours this morning to do some additional exploring before heading out of town. We spent the morning exploring side neighborhoods, shops and stumbled across the impressive mosque of Suleymaniye.

    We then headed off in the direction of Ankara, but will overnight in Bolu on the way. See you soon!
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  • Ataturk: Father of The Turks

    July 13, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    In 1923, from the ruins of the Ottoman Empire, came a series of reforms that would reshape the land into the modern Republic of Türkiye. And the chief architect of this shift was Mustafa Kemal. The surname Ataturk was added and literally means “Father of the Turks.” He is revered across the land and his picture is everywhere. There would be no Türkiye without him. We stopped to see his final resting place in Ankara, spend time in his museum and witness the changing of the guard. It was all quite fascinating, but I’ll save you the history lesson for later!Read more

  • The Great Salt Lake

    July 13, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    As we continued on our way to Cappadocia we made a quick stop at Lake Tuz, their Great Salt Lake. Like other salt lakes around the world, this one also is known for its medicinal purposes. Rub a little here, and you are cured. Rub a little there and you will look 20 years younger. I was unable to find the rub a little on your head and your hair will grow back version. Darn!Read more

  • A Family Meal

    July 13, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    After checking in at our hotel in Uchisar, we headed out for a traditional meal in the home of a local family. This, along with home stays, is one of the aspects of traveling with G Adventures that we like the most. G connects with the local community to pay willing and interested families to host travelers for a meal or an overnight. This typically provides an income stream to the family. We’ll call it the stay-at-home mom’s side hustle!

    We were invited to a room reserved for guests and had a traditional vegetarian Muslim meal.

    A funny highlight saw the family’s 8-year-old daughter moving person to person and asking each of us what we do for a job. She had limited English and our guide enjoyed the game as we tried to explain what we do. He would then ask her what her take away was. For Wayne, who is a project manager for the road department in Melbourne, Australia, she came up with Taxi Driver. For Brendan, a doctor. She looked surprised, likely due to his youthful appearance. I ended up as the “master of teachers” and Kim was a second teacher. Since I know how important teachers are, I think our titles should be reversed!
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  • Up, Up and Away

    July 14, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We started our day with a 4:30am pick up from the hotel to catch a sunrise hot air balloon ride. This is the quintessential experience in the Cappadocia region of Türkiye. And it did not disappoint. An hour in the air and then an almost perfect landing on the balloon company’s trailer followed by a champagne toast made for an unforgettable experience!Read more

  • Underground City

    July 14, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The volcanic ash prevalent throughout this region makes for fertile ground for farming and easy ground for excavating. So, why not build a city under the ground? Around 4000BC, farmers did just that. Not to live there, but to have a place to escape to in case of invaders and for a place to ferment their wine and store their food.

    But this is not your typical food cellar or tornado shelter. No, this baby is 8 floors deep and can hold 30,000 people! The largest one found thus far could actually hold 100,000 people!

    The rooms, regardless of what floor you are on, stay at a fairly constant 70 degrees year round. Just about perfect if you ask me.

    One unique defense feature of the cities are sets of rolling stones at each entrance that can only be rolled from the inside. This would allow residents to go down into the city and prevent soldiers from following. Other defenses saw the city built like a maze so that if soldiers did enter before the stones could be rolled into place, they would get lost and especially so once their torches wore out.

    Once out of the underground city, we explored an old Christian church before heading back into town and to the Turkish Bath. I’ll check back soon!
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  • Turkish Bath

    July 14, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    After the underground city we ventured back into town and to a traditional Haman (Turkish Bath). You begin with a long warm up in a sauna before being transitioned to a shower in preparation for a body exfoliation and bubble massage. The exfoliation was no joke. Every inch of my body was definitely foliated! Or is that exfoliated? Whatever it was, I believe any skin I didn’t need was definitely removed!

    Next came the bubble massage. I have never seen so many suds! The massage was the real deal, with the suds replacing the massage oil that is traditionally used in Swedish massages.

    After another trip through the shower it was off to the steam room and then the jacuzzi. One more trip to the shower followed by some time chillin’ while enjoying some apple tea brought us to the end of our Turkish Bath adventure.

    Next time you are in Türkiye, don’t miss out!
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  • Whirling Dervishes

    July 14, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    For a nightcap, our travel group took in the Whirling Dervishes. Our guide shared that The Whirling Dervishes are similar to Tibetan monks in that they fully commit their lives to the study of their religion which in this case, is Islam.

    We saw the Sema Ceremony, which consists of seven parts, each with a different meaning that tells a story through meditative revolutions. It was amazing how they could whirl, and whirl, and whirl in an almost hypnotic trance without becoming dizzy!
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  • Fairy Chimneys

    July 15, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We started our day today with a hike to see some Fairy Chimneys. These unique features see basalt stone on top, with eroding volcanic ash underneath. If you view the pictures, know that the only reason there is a column at all is because the basalt piece is on top and protecting it from the elements.Read more

  • Open Air Museum/Monestary

    July 15, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    After our hike, we visited the remnants of a monastery. Amazingly preserved frescos of orthodox religious scenes were visible throughout. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, but I can tell you the colors and the scenes have really stood the test of time!

    One section reminded me of Petra in Jordan (see pics) . Not exactly like Petra, where the carving is directly making the entry facade. This one looks similar to Petra, but is actually the interior which we can only see because the rest of the walls have fallen/eroded away.
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  • Turkish Nights!

    July 15, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    What a way to close out an amazing day! We started out with a feast of many different traditional dishes. The most unusual was sheep brain. Not my fave. Other than that, there were vegetable dishes, lamb, chicken, beef, fruits and more.

    But it was the entertainment that was the true highlight. Traditional dances, a staged wedding courtship and marriage, and a belly dancer that pushed the edge of propriety of what I would have predicted for Türkiye before I came here. She came down from the ceiling in a tube and proceeded to put on quite a show!

    Myah was even pulled into the fray and let down her hair as she joined in the dance lesson!
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  • Pottery Anyone?

    July 16, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    We visited the shop of master pottery artist Galip for a pottery demonstration and look at the Chez Galip’s large collection of works. Monsieur Galip speaks mainly in French (though is fluent in Turkish) and has a striking resemblance to Einstein. If you can get past the oddity of his owning the largest collection of human hair in the world (just ask Guinness!) you will see a true genius! Lucky for us, we only saw pictures of his most interesting of side hobbies.

    I didn’t realize when we arrived at the workshop that Kim had come to Turkey with a singular focus of what she would be taking home. And as you are likely guessing, that item: Pottery! We walked out with a bit of a load and now need to figure out how to get it all home!

    The master we watched do a demonstration was not Galileo himself, but he had been working at his craft for over 25 years!
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  • Rumi’s Final Resting Place

    July 16, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    On the way to our homestay accommodations, we stopped at the tomb of Rumi, the poet. The complex was originally a school of philosophy. Small rooms, with only a bed, a copy of the Koran and a candle surrounded the main teaching building. In these rooms students would “suffer” to show their commitment to the teachings of Islam and to secure admittance to the school. One room had documents that detailed a disciple who was there for 1,001 days!Read more

  • Homestay

    July 16, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    We stopped in the village of Guneysinir (pop. 6,000) for a homestay with a local family.

    We walked the neighborhood, picked tasty mulberries on trees that lined the streets and learned about the area and population.

    The family meal was so good. But the best part was the 2-year-old granddaughter who was mom and grandma’s helper. What a cutie pie!
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  • Christmas in July

    July 18, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    On the way to our boat tour, we stopped by the church where St. Nicholas, yes that Saint Nicholas, was born. An important Saint known for his habit of secret gift giving, St. Nicholas was the patron saint of many things, most interestingly that of pawnbrokers and repentant thieves!

    Demreh is warm year-round, so his transformation to the snowy figure we associate with St. Nicholas, and Santa Clause, was one more colonial appropriation/travesty.
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  • A Three Hour Tour…. (Ok, maybe six)

    July 18, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Our tour group spent the afternoon on a father/son owned and operated boat cruising the Mediterranean coastline. It was a warm day, so the ocean breeze and water were a perfect respite. The turquoise water is caused by salt water coming into contact with underwater freshwater springs.

    The son made us the most amazing meal on the boat from the small galley near the front and bbq off the back of the boat.

    What a perfect day!
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  • Kas

    July 19, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    We arrived in the late evening to Kas, a seaside village that is popular with foreign and domestic travelers alike. Hip restaurants and shops dot the area around the village square.
    After a short orientation tour with our guide, we hit the hay for a great night’s rest.

    The next day, we had a leisurely morning, enjoying breakfast at the hotel rooftop spot.

    Later, we walked and shopped before taking an afternoon rest at the hotel.

    We have been enjoying Turkish food daily and decided to grab some Sushi for dinner. Oh man was it out of this world!!!

    We finished the day by visiting an ancient amphitheater at sunset and cruising the town a little more.
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  • Cotton Palace

    July 20, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 99 °F

    After driving inland a few hours, we arrived in Pamukkale. Here we found the ancient ruins of the city of Hierapolis and its healing waters. The springs have been dubbed The Cotton Palace so named for the pillowy white lime deposits from the thermal hot springs that feed the area.

    Another amazing day in Türkiye!
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  • Ancient City of Ephesus

    July 21, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    After arriving in Selçuk, we grabbed a bite and hit the Ephesus museum in town. We always love the audio tours to really get the history of the pieces. And this one did not disappoint. It was an excellent warm up to our tour later in the day to the ancient city of Ephesus.

    The site was breathtaking in terms of scale. It was built in the 10th century BC. The city came under the control of the Roman Republic in 129 BC. The city was famous in its day for the nearby Temple of Artemis, which has been designated one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Its many monumental buildings included the Library of Celsus and a theatre capable of holding 24,000 spectators (and which was prepping for a rock concert this evening!).

    The city was destroyed by the Goths in 263.

    Amazing!
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  • Turkish Rug Anyone?

    July 22, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Ever seen how they make a Turkish rug? I have seen weaving demonstrations but never something quite like what goes into a rug.

    The wool rug that was being demonstrated had 90 double knots per sq inch. That would take 1.5 months at 4 hours per day to make a 3’x5’ carpet.

    Then there was the silk. It jumps up to 600 knots per square inch. They showed us examples that took years to make. This is why silk rugs are more expensive. It’s not because of material, but the long hours it takes to construct!
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  • Şirince

    July 22, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    After the rug demonstration, we traveled to Şirince a small village outside of Selçuk.

    This village was founded in the 5th century, after the city of Ephesus was abandoned.

    We walked the narrow streets, visited shops and grabbed a light bite overlooking the village before returning to our hotel for sone downtime ahead of the much anticipated cooking class that was scheduled for the evening.Read more