Day 5 - Along The North Coast.

I went to bed wearing a t-shirt, 2 fleeces, my jeans, walking boots and draped in a woollen throw, but I still woke up freezing cold. I put on my waterproof jacket and unsuccessfully attempted to get back to sleep.

I had time to contemplate why I was so ridiculously cold and established that the now strengthening wind blew under the two doors and straight through the mesh sides of my tent. I don’t think it was designed for arctic conditions. The second problem is that I don’t have a sleeping bag, I really thought I would be too hot, and in any event I couldn’t fit it on my bike.

When it got light I planned my onward journey and booked a night in a hostel further along the North Coast 500 route. The sun didn’t come out and the wind didn’t die down, so I got up and went to use the facilities still with all my 4 layers on. I was amazed how many people were walking around in just t-shirts and shorts. I couldn’t even face a shower.

I packed up my gear, which seems to be expanding in size despite me getting through a couple of cans and wearing more clothes. It was a real struggle to close the bulging panniers.

Around 10.50am I left the campsite. My 1st stop was to Tescos in Wick, where I treated myself to another Big Breakfast and a coffee. It went down well and set me up for the day, but on the downside my phone won’t connect to WiFi. I did however learn that Wick inhabitants are known as ‘Dirdie Weekers’.

I then hit the road for the next leg of my trip. I headed north up the A99 towards John O’Groats, but this time I joined the B876 to Castletown, then Thurso, which is the northernmost town on the Island of Great Britain. It is more northern than the southernmost point of Norway. I fuelled up here as recommended by my Wick mechanic. Apparently, there are no conventional petrol stations until all the way round to Ullapool and those that there are…are a ‘Rip Off’. I still intend to buy fuel at my next overnight stop, because my bike only does about 150 miles on a full tank and I don’t need the stress of fearing I’m going to run out.

From Thurso I was battered by strong headwinds as I headed west along the A836. Initially there was not much to see apart from passing Dounreay Nuclear Power Station, which was shut down in 1994 and is now Scotland's largest nuclear clean-up and demolition project.

At Strathy, I saw a nice beach and a sign to Strathy Point, which I couldn’t resist turning off to. I knew I shouldn’t do it until I was confident I could get more fuel. The road turned out to be longer than I expected and not worth the effort. The only thing of note was a small herd of Highland cattle were sat down beside the road and no fence between me and them.

Around the village of Bettyhill there were the 2 lovely beaches of Farr beach and Torrisdale Bay and the Strathnaver Museum. The route then took me through a vast and empty landscape with bleak moorland intercut with sandy sea lochs.

The next point of interest was the village of Tongue which is dominated from a hillside spur by the ruins of Castle Varrich, a medieval stronghold of the Mackays. I then crossed the causeway over the Kyle of Tongue, where sidewinds hammered into me constantly knocking me across the road.

I passed through Hope, then circumnavigated the very picturesque Loch Eriboll in the now driving rain, where I felt compelled to take numerous photos. My next photo stop was Ceannabeinne Beach, which was a stunner with turquoise waters.

Finally I reached Durness about 3pm. I stopped at Smoo Cave which was allegedly a highlight of the North Coast 500. I parked up and walked down a series of steps to the cave entrance. You could only enter deep into the cave, if you went on a guided tour wearing a hard hat. I was carrying my helmet and have probably been spoilt visiting much more impressive caves, so I didn’t bother.

I continued on and located the Durness Youth Hostel, my warm home for the night. I then went in search of a petrol station. It turned out to be a pump with a credit card machine beside it. The unleaded fuel was only £1.49 per litre, hardly extortionate. I inserted my credit card and nothing happened. The bottom line is the credit card machine has developed a fault and made the fuel pump inoperable. Several other customers tried, then I went to the shop opposite who confirmed it was knackered. The owner was out tending his livestock and was too busy to contact the helpline. Apparently he will try and do it later. This was my biggest fear…..other than actually breaking down or worse crashing!!

Maybe this is why I didn’t see many motorcyclists on this leg of the journey today, but I was amazed by how many lone cyclists were pedalling their way along these windswept roads. I take my helmet off to them.

I was intending to visit the nearby Balnakeil Beach, another recommendation of the Wick mechanic, who reckoned that it had the bluest water in Scotland. I decided to save my fuel and instead rode back to the youth hostel. I made an entrance by slipping on the top step and falling down the flight of 4 steps on my back.

It was 4pm, when I walked into the youth hostel reception. I discovered that reception didn’t actually open until 5pm, but I was able to sit in the comfy lounge, plug in all my electronic devices and make myself a coffee. My bloody phone is refusing to connect to WiFi, despite me following all the recommended remedy instructions.

There are people of all nationalities staying here, but there is a very annoying Chinese/Asian woman who is permanently sniffing very loudly without the slightest embarrassment or any attempt to blow her nose. I might do it for her!!

At 5pm, the Australian receptionist arrived and I checked in. The bed allocation was first come first served. I wasn’t the first, but I got probably the bed I would have chosen.

I sat in the common room and wrote my blog. At the time of writing I cannot airdrop my phone photos to my iPad, so attached are my efforts with the Olympus Tough. The iPhone are much better, I promise.

I spoke with Jackie on the phone, who provided me with the solution to get WiFi back on my iPhone. It was do with the VPN. What would I do without her?

I heated up a tin of chicken and mushroom soup before the United game, then a tin of baked beans at half time. A Frenchman of similar age had crisps and a glass of whiskey while I was eating my soup, then he proceeded to cook a 3 course meal!! United scored the only goal in the 87th minute.

Song of the Day - Summer Moors - Live by New Model Army.Read more