Reset search
North Coast 500North Coast 500
SatelliteEdit route

North Coast 500

August 2024
I am going to ride the North Coast 500 on my motorcycle and attempt to wild camp!! Read more

List of countries

  • England
  • Scotland
Categories
Camping, Motorbike, Solo travel
  • 2.8kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight-kilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Train-kilometers
  • Bus-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 10footprints
  • 14days
  • 186photos
  • 39likes
FollowCalendarShareBucket list
Newest first
  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 2

    Day 1 - A None Fun Numb Bum Day

    August 13, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I woke up at 1.25am with indigestion and a gurgling stomach. It could have been nervousness for my new trip, but more likely it was from the excessive food (curry) and beer from the previous afternoon to celebrate Jackie’s birthday.

    On the subject of birthdays, I bought Jackie a corkscrew and the greatest gift of all….2 weeks of peace and quiet. I was going to ride the North Coast 500 on my trusty…ish steed.

    I finally left at 8.50am with my SatNav telling me that I would arrive at my first port of call - Newbiggin-By-The-Sea at 2.00pm. I anticipated that I would arrive there probably around 3.00pm once I had had several fuel stops, a coffee and the occasional traffic jam. How naively optimistic was I!!

    Jackie even got out of bed to wave me off or more likely make sure that I went. I then rode up the M23, clockwise around the M25, up the M1, eventually joining the A1(M), then after Newcastle I headed east to the coast and Newbiggin-By-The-Sea arriving at 5.30pm.

    The journey had been horrendous with constant roadworks and numerous vehicles broken down causing additional lane closures. I tried to sneak down between the stationary traffic but often the lanes were too narrow for my panniers. During one tailback which lasted for an hour and 10 minutes, a red warning light came on on my motorcycle which luckily turned out to be that it was overheating. It wasn’t the only one, I was sat on the motorway on my motorcycle surrounded by lorries on the hottest day of the year in my motorcycle jacket still with its quilted lining zipped in it.

    I refuelled 3 times and at Donnington Services I treated myself to a Greggs. I had a white coffee, a sausage, beans and cheese bake (lovely) and a corned beef bake (fairly disgusting, it had the consistency of moist dog food).

    At Newbiggin-By-The-Sea, I rode to Church Point and spent several minutes cooling down and taking a few photos. In 2007, Newbiggin-By-The-Sea’s beach was restored when over 500,000 tonnes of Skegness sand were relocated there. There is also a gigantic bronze sculpture, The Couple, on the island offshore. I didn’t notice it.

    I then followed the Coastal Route north, stopping at Amble-By-The-Sea, which was full of holiday parks and had a nice looking beach. Next was Warkworth and its 14th century castle which features in Shakespeare’s Henry IV Parts 1 and 2 (apparently) and the 1998 film Elizabeth. There was a sign at the entrance saying the car park was closed, but I ignored it to take a few photos. The English Heritage guy who was packing up allowed me to go up to the gate to take a photo, but told me “DO NOT go beyond the gate”. I didn’t.

    Next was Alnmouth and its beach. I didn’t stay long. I the continued on towards Alnwick to find a campsite for the night from Apple Maps. I first stopped at Pepperpot Camp Site only to discover that they had stopped being a camp site 3 years ago. I eventually found Gallowmoor Camp Site which is a field with a couple of portaloos and fresh water.

    I set up camp here on an empty pitch. My pocket air pump had switched on during the journey, but luckily my portable charger managed to charge it up in order to blow up my airbed and pillow.

    I then set about writing my blog. It was weird not having a chair to sit on. I ended up sitting in the dewy grass and leaning on my clothes bag. I got all my cooking utensils out for a slap up meal of soup, but I ended up making do with half a bladder of red wine and half a packet of Digestive biscuits.

    I spoke with my fellow camping neighbours and got one tip on where to visit the following day, which was nice.

    I retired to bed around 10pm.

    Song of the Day - Tales of the Road by Justin Sullivan.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 2

    Day 2 - I’m Falling For Scotland

    August 13, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    I woke up at 1.30am freezing cold and needing a wee. I went outside and saturated my socks - from the heavy dew, not wee. I then wrapped up in extra clothes and with a blanket over me and managed to get back to sleep.

    I woke up again at 5.30am and to my horror I discovered that I had not saved my blog and it was lost for ever, so my first job of the day was to rewrite it. I had also left both my Ipad and iPhone on overnight and they were now short on charge. It was then I made my second horrific discovery that of all the charging cables I had packed, not one was for my iPhone. This was not going well.

    I prised myself out of my tent around 7am and made myself a green tea (only because the teabag fell in my cup by accident). I then made my breakfast of heated up cream of chicken soup.

    After breakfast, I set about packing up all my gear and trying to force it back into the panniers and top box. My bike weighs an absolute ton. I left the campsite at 8.58am and headed back to Alnwick for a photo of the castle. I could only get long distance shots.

    My next stop was Low Newton-By-The-Sea, which turned out to be a lovely little village with a stunning beach. This definitely requires a return visit.

    I followed the Coastal Route north to Bamburgh Castle for a quick photo. It is apparently Northumberland’s most dramatic castle built in the 11th century by Henry ll. The castle played a key role in the border wars of the 13th and 14th centuries, and in 1946 was the first castle to fall during the War of the Roses.

    I then continued towards the Holy Island of Lindisfarne that is connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway that only appears at low tide. It is cut off from the mainland for about 5 hours each day. There was a long queue of traffic all waiting to negotiate the causeway, so I abandoned the idea of going across. I had some interesting facts, but as I didn’t visit it, I’ll save them for another time!

    Next stop was Berwick-Upon-Tweed, where I stopped at an Asda to refuel and purchase a charger cable for my iPhone. Whilst at Asda, I typed in the Union Chain Bridge which was the recommendation from my fellow camper the previous evening. I didn’t realise that it was 4 miles inland from Berwick-Upon-Tweed, so I didn’t actually get to see B-U-T and its harbour.

    Anyway, the Union Chain Bridge is a suspension bridge that spans the River Tweed between Horncliffe, Northumberland, England and Fishwick, Borders, Scotland. It was designed by Captain (later Sir) Samuel Brown RN, who held patents for the design of the chains, although Brown altered the tower and abutments on the suggestion of John Rennie. When it opened in 1820 it was the longest wrought iron suspension bridge in the world with a span of 137 metres (449 ft), and the first vehicular bridge of its type in the United Kingdom.

    I was able to ride over the bridge on my motorcycle to enter Scotland whereupon it immediately started to rain. After lots of windy little roads I eventually rejoined the A1 and sped north. At Dunbar, I saw a McDonalds and thought it would be a good opportunity to get a coffee to warm up AND charge my iPhone, iPad etc.

    The car park was busy and I took the only available space which was on a slope. I kicked down my bike stand (or so I thought), then went to climb off my bike when all of a sudden I crashed to the ground with my bike collapsing on top of me. The stand wasn’t fully down and had sprung back up again.

    The old couple in their car next to me eating their McWrap had the shock of their lives as my head and back slammed into their wheel. Miraculously my bike didn’t hit their car. The only damage suffered was the metal ball on the end of my clutch lever which snapped off and of course my bruised pride. Luckily no-one witnessed my mishap…not. A couple of kind Scottish builders ran over to help me get the bike back up and on the stand again.

    Totally mortified with embarrassment, I dusted myself down and headed towards McDonalds, when I suddenly discovered that the back of my left thigh was really painful. I hobbled into McDonalds and bought a coffee. I am hoping that my injury is just a severe dead leg.

    45 minutes later, I reluctantly returned to my bike and set the SatNav for Braemar. My bike started which was a bonus, but it was agony getting my leg over the saddle. I bravely rode on towards Edinburgh, where I experienced high winds, then across the Forth Bridge and up to Perth. I passed Scone Palace, but it wasn’t visible from the road.

    After Perth, I picked up the A93 or Snow Road Tourist Route (also called the Highland Route and other variations on this theme) that took me along heather strewn valleys and up and around mountains. The scenery was stunning, or I imagine it would be if the low clouds and rain lifted. I passed several ski centres with chairlifts disappearing up the mountains into the clouds.

    It was around 4.30pm, that I finally arrived in Braemar and the birthplace of the Highland Games. I located the Highland Games arena and was surprised that anybody was allowed to walk in. The only rule I could see was that no dogs were allowed on the actual playing field. The next event is on the 7th September.

    I had plans to go past Balmoral Castle and visit Ballater and Aboyne, but I still had over 2 hours to go to reach my final destination of the day, so I abandoned that idea. As it happened my SatNav got confused my a road closure and I did end up in Ballater, where I reset the SatNav and went back the way I had just came from.

    The scenery was more of the same, but I was cold and wet and yearning for a lovely hot shower. After riding through Inverness, I followed the northern shore of Loch Ness to Drumnadrochit and checked into Loch Ness Bunk Inn. Before finding my dormitory, I rode back to the town centre and bought and ate a not very appealing jumbo sausage in batter and chips.

    I returned to the Bunk Inn where I made up my top bunk bedding, had a shower and started writing my blog surrounded by numerous electronic devices all on charge. I am sharing my dorm with an American who has been sleeping rough in his car for the last few days and stunk when he arrived and 2 other foreign lads.

    Song of the Day - Stone and Heather by Justin Sullivan.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    1
    Day 3

    Day 3 - NC500 Trip Proper Begins

    August 14, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I had a lovely undisturbed sleep on the top bunk in my dorm. I awoke at 6.15am to the American packing his stuff up and heading out for the day.

    Whilst the two French lads snored gently, I loaded up all my next set of places to visit on my SatNav. Unfortunately I went too far and started deleting the first ones I had entered, so I had to start all over again.

    I gingerly climbed down from my top bunk for a shower. My leg is still very painful, but I refuse to let it ruin my trip. The weather is looking much brighter today and my initial thoughts are to stay for 2 nights on a campsite near Wick, but things could change!!

    Yesterday I saw a pine martin or something similar. It was chestnut brown with a black tipped tail. I obviously couldn’t take a photo of it because I was speeding towards it at 60mph, it did a little dance in panic in the road then dived back into the undergrowth.

    Talking of photos, you may notice that my photos are more crap than usual. This is because my decent camera is now knackered and will join the other 6 in the camera graveyard on the windowsill in the conservatory. I have resorted to using my battered Olympus Tough camera with such a scratched lens that I’m amazed it takes any photos at all. I have occasionally taken a photo with my phone, but I need to try and save the battery and they often turn out blurred.

    After resting my leg for as long as possible, I finally checked out of the Bunk Inn just after 9am. It was a lovely sunny morning and my first stop was Urquhart Castle just a couple of miles down the road. The car park was already busy, so I parked up in the nearer empty coach park and hobbled along to a viewpoint back down the road. I took my photo and returned to discover 4 coaches had in the meantime arrived. I sneaked out quickly, weaving through the hordes of coach trippers disembarking from their vehicles.

    I followed the northern shore of Loch Ness in a South-Westerly direction (if that makes sense) to Invermoriston, that had a very nice bridge. I continued on to Fort Augustus at the tip of Loch Ness where the Caledonian Canal flowed into the Loch. It was a bit too touristy with numerous gift shops and Loch cruises.

    I then continued my anti-clockwise circumnavigation of Loch Ness, passing Loch Tarff and other tiny Lochs until I reached the car park for the Falls of Foyers. I decided to test my gammy leg out with a 200 metre walk to the viewpoint for the upper falls. I limped, not hobbled down the steps to see the quite impressive waterfall.

    Apparently the Falls of Foyer are one of Scotland’s finest waterfalls. They consist of 2 waterfalls, the upper falls with a drop of 46 feet and the lower falls that drop 98 feet. I only found this out when writing my blog that I had only seen the mini one!!!

    Feeling chuffed that my leg was feeling slightly better, I continued on to Dores, the location of Loch Ness Beach. It was well worth a refreshment stop either from the Dores Inn or Ness Coffee. There was also the eccentric Nessie Hunter caravan.

    This was my final stop around Loch Ness before heading further north to Strathpepper. I wasn’t entirely sure why I was going there, but I had identified it as a place to visit. It turned out to be a leafy Victorian spa town surrounded by wooded hills. As I rode through the Main Street it appeared to be just twee coffee shop. I didn’t stop.

    Next was Dingwall, a town and a royal burgh. I have no idea what that means, but I found a Tescos and had myself a Big Breakfast and coffee. Despite it apparently being 1000 calories, it was just what the doctor ordered and I felt invigorated and ready to crack on with my trip. After fuelling up I continued without really knowing what Dingwall had to offer.

    I followed the A9 (the North Coast 500), but soon took an ‘off the beaten track’ detour to Portmahomack. My theory is ‘if it’s there to be seen, then I need to see it’s AND wow was I glad to see it. It was a delightful little fishing harbour and beach. I took a few rubbish photos and moved on.

    I rode back towards Tain, then on, passing the Glen Morangie Distillery. It should be noted that the north-eastern coast of Scotland is Whiskey Country. I raced along the A836 (perfect motorcycling road) up to Bonar Bridge. I was expecting a bit more than just a bridge. Apparently the bridge was originally built over the River Carron in 1812 by Thomas Telford. It was the first of 3 bridges on this site, the most recent was built in 1973.

    Less than wowed by Bonar Bridge, I headed down the A949 on the opposite side of the river to Dornoch. Dornoch felt like another tourist trap. There were tourists everywhere. Dornoch is famous for being the location of where the last witch to be executed in Scotland was boiled alive in hot tar in 1722. Her name was Janet Horne and she was executed, probably because her daughter’s hands and feet were deformed. A stone stands in a cottage to commemorate this. I found some signs but not the actual stone.

    Dornoch is also famous for being the location of where Madonna and Guy Ritchie married in 2000. By this time I was distracted by the fact that my oil warning light had come on on my motorcycle. I started cursing myself for being too lazy to check my oil level before I left home.

    I gingerly rode my bike north vowing to buy some motorcycle engine oil at the first opportunity. Sod’s Law, I rode and rode fearing that my engine would seize, but not a single garage materialised. After passing through a couple of coastal villages, including Duneobin Castle.

    Eventually I arrived at Brora, that on it’s welcome sign it boasted that it had a petrol station amongst other highlights. I gratefully pulled into the garage, but motorcycle oil was not something they stocked. The mechanic researched my bike’s oil requirements and identified which oil I needed. I never knew there was such a thing, I thought engine oil was engine oil!!! He identified a possible shop in Thurso that may be able to help, but recommended I return to Inverness.

    F**k that, I rode 200 metres up the road to a second garage. A mechanic offered his assistance. Then his mate got involved. He identified a motorcycle garage in Wick (where I was heading) that would be able to sort me out. Before I left we checked my oil level from the proper indicator on my bike. On its stand it showed as empty, but when I nervously stood the bike upright, it showed as only just under the level. I was ecstatic, I was given the green light to carry on to at least Wick. I never knew that only certain oils were suitable for my bike!!

    I missed Whaligoe Steps and continued on to Wick. I rode into Wick River Campsite, where I reserved a non-electric pitch for 2 nights (I want a rest from packing up my gear every day). I was allocated pitch 19 nearest to the river. I set my whole camp up in less than 30 minutes. It was now 6pm. It is a delightful setting.

    I walked (note not limped) alongside the river into the town and found a Co-op, where I bought a 2.25l of Chilean Merlot. I returned to camp and started my blog. I relocated to the picnic area where I wrote this blog, whilst being attacked by midges. Note to self put the jungle juice on early!!

    My entertainment for the evening, was two drunk Scottish women, who were gobbing off sufficiently that their husbands eventually sent to bed. On the downside, I was attacked by a swarm of midges until I managed to douse my head in Jungle spray.

    Song of the Day - Burn The Castle by New Model Army.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 4

    Day 4 - The UK’s Northern Extremities

    August 15, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I woke up in the middle of the night and went out in my socks (not just my socks) for a wee. I never learn. I returned with saturated feet again. I going to wear my boots to bed tonight.

    I was awoken by squawking seagulls just after 5am, I lay in bed listening to them until my bladder got the better of me. It was on this occasion that I noticed that the empty pitch next to me had an electric hook-up. No one was up so I plugged my devices in and lay them on top of my motorcycle jacket. I had just got back into bed when Sod’s Law it started to rain. I had to rush out and wrap them inside my jacket, until the rain got too heavy and I panicked they would get damaged.

    I read my book and fell back asleep until 8.50am. I showered then made myself a breakfast of rice pudding after I had doused my head in Jungle Formula to keep the swarming midges at bay. Apparently they rarely come out - only on a still day and after the rain. Luckily me.

    Around 10am I headed out for the day. My first stop was AMS motorcycles in Coach Road, Wick to get some engine oil. The elderly lady in reception proudly informed me that they had celebrated their 24th anniversary the previous day. She then went off to ask her son what oil I needed. As I was paying for my litre of oil (bargain at £14.99) she started to run through a list of places I needed to visit on my trip. Eventually I managed to get out of the workshop and attempted to fill my engine with oil. I failed at the first hurdle, when I couldn’t open my oil cap!!!

    I had to return to the workshop and the son came out and managed to open it with ease. He obviously decided that I was a complete half-wit, because he ended up pouring the oil in and checking that it was the correct level. Apparently it was really low. The son was a nice chap who then spent the next 10 minutes or so telling me where I should visit, but in more detail than his mum.

    I thanked him and boarded my bike, when I was then accosted by a little old lady in her 80’s, who told me to be careful how I ride. She then went on to tell me that a local lad had crashed his motorcycle and died in Wick the previous day. I promised her I would ride very carefully!!

    I headed north up the A99 towards John O’Groats. I passed through Keiss, then just before reaching John O’Groats, I turned right to Duncansby Head. I parked up at the lighthouse car park and limped the 500 or so metres through a sheep paddock to the geological marvel that is Duncansby Stacks. They are 3 sandstone pyramids (or monoliths if you prefer) reaching out of the sea to over 60 metres. The tallest is called the Great Stack and is taller than the mainland. It was an impressive sight with the added bonus of swooping and nesting seagulls around the cliffs.

    I continued on to John O’Groats and its famous sign installed in 1964. It is named after a Dutchman, Jan de Groot who ran a ferry to the Orkney Islands for 2p. The coin of this denomination became known as a ‘Groat’. The 300 residents of John O’Groats are known as ’Groaters’. It is 603 miles to Land’s End as the crow flies, but the shortest distance by road is 837 miles. It is NOT the most northerly point on mainland Britain.

    I took the obligatory photos of the sign and it’s not unexpectedly very commercialised centre. There were gift shops, cafes, a brewery, a distillery and even a John O’Groats Christmas Shop. There were just 2 cyclists, that appeared to be a mother and son. The irritating son was shouting into his phone about his achievement for everyone to hear. I was glad to leave.

    I then headed west along the northern coast on the A836. I turned off down the very impressive long entrance to Castle of Mey hoping to get a photo, but the castle and gardens were surrounded by a huge wall.

    A short while later I turned off again following a minor road for about 5 miles to Dunnet Head, which IS the most northerly spot on mainland Britain. Dunnet Head had a lighthouse and several derelict brick buildings that were used by the British Army during World War II, because it looked out over Scapa Flow, where there was a naval base. There were an assortment of seabirds that reside there including puffins and gannets, but I didn’t spot any, just the regular seagulls.

    A fantastic panoramic view was promised by following a path to a mound back from the lighthouse. I obviously limped up it, where it afforded a decent view of the Orkney Islands even on this cloudy day. I also learnt that the body of water between the Orkney Islands and this part of the mainland is called the Pentland Firth and is frequented by Killer Whales. I didn’t see any of them either.

    I continued my journey to Dunnet Bay, a gorgeous looking beach that I had recently seen on tv featuring a young couple that ran a surf school there. The surf school seemed to have just finish for the day and the youngsters were all filing out of the water shivering.
    They must have been mad.

    Next stop was the main town of the region, Thurso. I had a cruise round, then headed down the A882 back to camp. I arrived back shortly after 3pm, the sun was out and everything was good. I put my devices on charge and rang Jackie who informed with the great news that I had received a letter telling me that my PSA score for prostate cancer had gone down and I didn’t need another PSA test until the end of the year.

    Before we had finished the call, it started to rain and I had to abort the call to sort out my electrics. I took shelter in my tent and booked a hostel for the following evening. The forecast is for wind and I will hopefully be able to watch the football on my iPad!!!

    When it stopped raining I took a mooch into Wick town centre, which used to be the busiest herring, (known as ‘Silver Darlings’) fishing port in Europe until WW1. I fancied a Chinese, but there wasn’t one, then I thought curry, but the only decent one was closed. I eventually decided on Bistro No 1, which was in the Mackays Hotel and was rated the best restaurant in Wick on TripAdvisor.

    Before I entered the hotel, I took a photo of Ebenezer Place, recognised in the Guinness Book of Records as the shortest street in the world at just 2.06 metres long. It is at the thin end of the Mackays Hotel. I entered the hotel and was shown to the table at the thinnest end of the hotel for ‘Billy No Mates’ with my back to the shortest street in the world. It was just wide enough for me. The waiter offered me the Early Birds Menu of 2 courses for £25 (or 3 for £30, but I’m not greedy, despite only having had a tin of rice pudding all day!). I chose the ham hock and pea terrine with piccalilli and oat cakes. For my 2nd course, I had the Mackays Single beef burger with crispy bacon, caramelised red onion, cheddar cheese, secret burger sauce served with red cabbage slaw and hand cut chips. It was washed down with a pint of golden ale from the John O’Groats brewery.

    It was all very nice and I returned to camp with a full belly. I returned to the picnic area, where I surreptitiously charged my devices and wrote my blog whilst finishing my bladder of wine.

    Song of the Day - Island by New Model Army.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 5

    Day 5 - Along The North Coast.

    August 16, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    I went to bed wearing a t-shirt, 2 fleeces, my jeans, walking boots and draped in a woollen throw, but I still woke up freezing cold. I put on my waterproof jacket and unsuccessfully attempted to get back to sleep.

    I had time to contemplate why I was so ridiculously cold and established that the now strengthening wind blew under the two doors and straight through the mesh sides of my tent. I don’t think it was designed for arctic conditions. The second problem is that I don’t have a sleeping bag, I really thought I would be too hot, and in any event I couldn’t fit it on my bike.

    When it got light I planned my onward journey and booked a night in a hostel further along the North Coast 500 route. The sun didn’t come out and the wind didn’t die down, so I got up and went to use the facilities still with all my 4 layers on. I was amazed how many people were walking around in just t-shirts and shorts. I couldn’t even face a shower.

    I packed up my gear, which seems to be expanding in size despite me getting through a couple of cans and wearing more clothes. It was a real struggle to close the bulging panniers.

    Around 10.50am I left the campsite. My 1st stop was to Tescos in Wick, where I treated myself to another Big Breakfast and a coffee. It went down well and set me up for the day, but on the downside my phone won’t connect to WiFi. I did however learn that Wick inhabitants are known as ‘Dirdie Weekers’.

    I then hit the road for the next leg of my trip. I headed north up the A99 towards John O’Groats, but this time I joined the B876 to Castletown, then Thurso, which is the northernmost town on the Island of Great Britain. It is more northern than the southernmost point of Norway. I fuelled up here as recommended by my Wick mechanic. Apparently, there are no conventional petrol stations until all the way round to Ullapool and those that there are…are a ‘Rip Off’. I still intend to buy fuel at my next overnight stop, because my bike only does about 150 miles on a full tank and I don’t need the stress of fearing I’m going to run out.

    From Thurso I was battered by strong headwinds as I headed west along the A836. Initially there was not much to see apart from passing Dounreay Nuclear Power Station, which was shut down in 1994 and is now Scotland's largest nuclear clean-up and demolition project.

    At Strathy, I saw a nice beach and a sign to Strathy Point, which I couldn’t resist turning off to. I knew I shouldn’t do it until I was confident I could get more fuel. The road turned out to be longer than I expected and not worth the effort. The only thing of note was a small herd of Highland cattle were sat down beside the road and no fence between me and them.

    Around the village of Bettyhill there were the 2 lovely beaches of Farr beach and Torrisdale Bay and the Strathnaver Museum. The route then took me through a vast and empty landscape with bleak moorland intercut with sandy sea lochs.

    The next point of interest was the village of Tongue which is dominated from a hillside spur by the ruins of Castle Varrich, a medieval stronghold of the Mackays. I then crossed the causeway over the Kyle of Tongue, where sidewinds hammered into me constantly knocking me across the road.

    I passed through Hope, then circumnavigated the very picturesque Loch Eriboll in the now driving rain, where I felt compelled to take numerous photos. My next photo stop was Ceannabeinne Beach, which was a stunner with turquoise waters.

    Finally I reached Durness about 3pm. I stopped at Smoo Cave which was allegedly a highlight of the North Coast 500. I parked up and walked down a series of steps to the cave entrance. You could only enter deep into the cave, if you went on a guided tour wearing a hard hat. I was carrying my helmet and have probably been spoilt visiting much more impressive caves, so I didn’t bother.

    I continued on and located the Durness Youth Hostel, my warm home for the night. I then went in search of a petrol station. It turned out to be a pump with a credit card machine beside it. The unleaded fuel was only £1.49 per litre, hardly extortionate. I inserted my credit card and nothing happened. The bottom line is the credit card machine has developed a fault and made the fuel pump inoperable. Several other customers tried, then I went to the shop opposite who confirmed it was knackered. The owner was out tending his livestock and was too busy to contact the helpline. Apparently he will try and do it later. This was my biggest fear…..other than actually breaking down or worse crashing!!

    Maybe this is why I didn’t see many motorcyclists on this leg of the journey today, but I was amazed by how many lone cyclists were pedalling their way along these windswept roads. I take my helmet off to them.

    I was intending to visit the nearby Balnakeil Beach, another recommendation of the Wick mechanic, who reckoned that it had the bluest water in Scotland. I decided to save my fuel and instead rode back to the youth hostel. I made an entrance by slipping on the top step and falling down the flight of 4 steps on my back.

    It was 4pm, when I walked into the youth hostel reception. I discovered that reception didn’t actually open until 5pm, but I was able to sit in the comfy lounge, plug in all my electronic devices and make myself a coffee. My bloody phone is refusing to connect to WiFi, despite me following all the recommended remedy instructions.

    There are people of all nationalities staying here, but there is a very annoying Chinese/Asian woman who is permanently sniffing very loudly without the slightest embarrassment or any attempt to blow her nose. I might do it for her!!

    At 5pm, the Australian receptionist arrived and I checked in. The bed allocation was first come first served. I wasn’t the first, but I got probably the bed I would have chosen.

    I sat in the common room and wrote my blog. At the time of writing I cannot airdrop my phone photos to my iPad, so attached are my efforts with the Olympus Tough. The iPhone are much better, I promise.

    I spoke with Jackie on the phone, who provided me with the solution to get WiFi back on my iPhone. It was do with the VPN. What would I do without her?

    I heated up a tin of chicken and mushroom soup before the United game, then a tin of baked beans at half time. A Frenchman of similar age had crisps and a glass of whiskey while I was eating my soup, then he proceeded to cook a 3 course meal!! United scored the only goal in the 87th minute.

    Song of the Day - Summer Moors - Live by New Model Army.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 6

    Day 6 - Lots Of Green And Grey

    August 17, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It was a warm but noisy night in the mixed dormitory of 12. The overweight Asian (probably Korean) in the bunk immediately above me tossed and turned until about 12.30am, then snored like a warthog until he woke himself up and then made a peculiar moaning sound until he started to snore again. I finally got to sleep around 2.30am.

    I woke up at 7am but didn’t get out of bed until 8am. During that time, I interrogated the weather forecast and saw that it was high winds for today and tomorrow, then solid rain for the next few days. I decided that I would not head into the Isle of Skye, but instead I would complete the traditional North Coast 500 route, then head home. Skye can wait for another day, hopefully in a camper van, which in my opinion is the perfect vehicle for this trip.

    I then searched petrol stations, which is the biggest thing playing on my mind. Apart from in Durness, the next petrol station is in Scourie, some 25 miles away. After that it is Ullapool which I’m not sure I could make. It may seem like I’m unduly worrying, but I also read that parts of this region of Scotland are the most uninhabited areas in the whole of Europe.

    I had a tin of rice pudding for my breakfast and 3 large mugs of coffees. I chatted with the very laidback hostel manager who said I could stay and use the facilities as long as I liked. He confirmed that the petrol pump in Scourie was working yesterday. Fingers crossed.

    I used the time at the hostel to decide what if any additional detours I wanted to make off the NC500 route and typed various locations into my SatNav. I loaded up my motorcycle and drove out of the hostel at 10.25am.

    I drove the mile along the road to the petrol pump and hallelujah it was working. While I waited in the queue to fill up, the heavens opened and my jeans were saturated within seconds, but I was too happy to care. I squeezed just over 6 litres of unleaded into the fuel tank.

    I stopped at Durness Village Hall where there is a slightly bizarre memorial to John Lennon that attracts a few diehard Beatles fans. He used to visit his aunt Lizzie who lived in Durness on family holidays and his memories later went into the song ‘In My Life’.

    I then took a ride out to Balnakeil Bay to see the brilliant Mediterranean turquoise sea. Apparently it only turns turquoise on sunny days, which wasn’t today, but it still looked like a stunning beach.

    I then followed the A838 road south from Durness towards Scourie sweeping through the Highlands at their apparent starkest with rocks piled on rocks, bog and water, and a bare stony coastline that looks increasingly inhospitable. I cruised along the coastline with my eyes glued to the shore looking for otters. They remained elusive.

    At Scourie I located the village fuel pump and decided to not give up the opportunity to fill up with fuel. I managed to squeeze 2.48 litres into the tank.

    I continued down the A894 into the Assynt region, which is described as having an epic, almost cinematic quality. Its landscape does not consist of mountain ranges, but of extraordinary peaks which rise individually from the moorland.

    I crossed the bridge at Kylesku, then turned off on to the scenic B869 coast road. The testing road hugged the indented shoreline with coastal views and superb beaches. I passed through the villages of Drumbeg, Clachtoll and Achmelvich.

    It was a tiring ride and eventually I arrived at the small town of Lochinver, which is famous for its pies. I stopped and visited the Lochinver Larder for a couple of their pastry delights. The shop was heaving with tourists and it took quite a while just to get served. I finally ordered a savoury steak and ale pie and a sweet apple and blackcurrant pie. I had to pay extra to have them heated up. I ate the 2 deliciously deep filled pies, which cost me an eye watering £13.90 to take away, which I had on an outside table. It would have cost more to eat inside.

    Suitably refreshed, I headed towards my hostel for the night. The road took me up a fairly fast steep hill with what I saw to be a nice view of a river on the right hand side. I made the ill-judged decision to pull over to the opposite side of the road. I struggled to remove my gloves whilst squeezing hard on my brake. I managed to take my photo (that probably wasn’t worth the effort), then my engine cut out as I struggled even more to put my gloves back on. As cars raced too close for comfort past, I tried and tried to start my engine but nothing happened. I was cursing my stupidity, because I was now stuck against the raised verge and it was too dangerous, if not impossible anyway, to move my bike. It was after about 5 minutes of panic that I had the ‘lightbulb moment’ that I had accidentally pressed the big red switch to ‘Engine Cut Off’. Once rectified, my bike roared back into life, much to my relief.

    I continued alongside Loch Assynt passing the picturesque toothy remains of Ardveck Castle, a MacLeod stronghold from 1597 that fell to the Seaforth Mackenzies after a siege in 1691. Less than a mile further along I turned into Inchnadamph Explorers Lodge, my hostel for night.

    A group of eight amusing middle aged Scots who are also staying at the hostel provided me with my early evening entertainment in the dining room while I write my blog . It was like a real life ‘Two Doors Down’.

    I watched the second half of the football on my iPad, showered then read my book in the lounge. Whilst reading, a Scottish lad who seemed to be a guide for an older Indian man, discussed their onward travel/tour plans. They were looking at some fancy weather website and making alternative arrangements because heavy rain and strong winds are due to hit the west coast of Scotland on Monday afternoon. I made my mind up to regrettably start to head home early on Monday morning.

    I went to bed around 10pm and researched my route for tomorrow and where I would stay before prematurely ending my trip.

    Song of the Day - Green and Grey by New Model Army.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 7

    Day 7 - North Coast 500…….Tick

    August 18, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    I woke up before 6am and booked a hostel back in Drumnadrochit next to Loch Ness. At 8am, I was tucking into the free breakfast of 4 well done, not burnt, slices of toast, corn flakes, coffee and orange juice.

    At 9.45am, I climbed aboard my motorcycle to complete the final leg of the North Coast 500. It was raining, so I put on my waterproof trousers, only for the sun to immediately come out. I couldn’t be arsed to take them off again.

    I headed south on the A837 and A835 for 24 miles on lovely wide sweeping roads that had views of mountains all around. In Ullapool, the north-west’s principal town, the ferry to Stornaway on Lewis had just arrived and a queue vehicles were disembarking. I filled up with fuel and continued south until I turned right at Corrieshalloch Gorge, where coach loads were entering the visitors centre. I couldn’t afford the time to stop, because I knew I had a long ride ahead of me if I was to fully complete the NC500.

    I followed the A832 coastal road towards Poolewe. It was a great drive along a road that tracked high above Little Loch Broom with gorgeous views to the mountains opposite. For me this was the most spectacular scenery that I had seen on this trip. The occasional downpour and constant battering by the winds off the sea didn’t temper my enjoyment. I stopped for numerous photographs and finally realised that if I put my bike in gear when I stop it acts as a handbrake. Better late than never!!

    At Poolewe at the southern end of Loch Ewe, I stopped for a wee in the many free WCs along the route. I read that Loch Ewe is a deep-water loch and remains one of only three berths for nuclear submarines. I didn’t see any.

    I continued onwards to Gairloch, described as a low-key holiday resort with several sandy beaches for the bucket and spade brigade. The clouds in Gairloch made it seem a bit miserable. I couldn’t resist topping up the fuel tank, whilst I was there.

    Next the A832 route took me alongside Loch Maree, apparently one of the area’s scenic highlights. It is dotted with Caledonian-pine-covered islands and sheer mountains opposite, but unfortunately the view from the road was masked by a barrier of pine trees and there weren’t suitable places to stop to admire its alleged beauty.

    At the end of Loch Maree, I reached the village of Kinlochewe and turned onto the A896 to Torridon, then Shieldaig. The road was again beautifully surrounded by mountains and lochs.

    Shortly after Shieldaig, I took the scenic coastal road around the Applecross Peninsula to Applecross. It was pouring with rain at this time and it was tempting to skip this section of the route, but I’d only be cheating myself!

    For the first few miles, I was regretting my decision because the road was a tree covered tight single track up and down steep gradients and sharp bends. The traffic was quite heavy and it was very slow going. Eventually the road opened up to provide a moody barren landscape and then views across the sparkling Inner Sound to the Isle of Skye and the isles in front of it.

    After arriving at Applecross, I thought it would be a short dash back to Inverness to complete the NC500. How wrong could I be? The SatNav said that I still had more than 75 miles to go, still it would be a fast wide road. How wrong could I be?

    As I left Applecross, I climbed and climbed up to Bealach na Ba Pas. The road was extremely steep and narrow with sheer drops either side of the road. This was the most nerve wracking road that I had ever ridden on, particularly when occasionally I had to squeeze past on coming traffic that had failed to stop in a designated passing place. Upon reaching the top it was a still steep but a slightly easier road down. It was an amazingly exhilarating ride but I was glad when I returned to flatter roads.

    I rode through Lochcarron, with a cute looking golf course, then along the A890 which ran through a gorge before opening up into a valley. About fifteen miles outside of Inverness and just as I thought I was touching distance of the end of the route, the NC500 had one final surprise, taking me off the now fast ‘A’ road and down a windy little country road. It took me past the Glen Ord Distillery, where the pungent smell of whiskey hung in the air and then through the centre of Beauly. I stopped at a petrol station, then at a Co-op store to use the loo. I accidentally bought too many sweets and chocolate!

    I rode into Inverness, where I discovered there was no official actual start and end point for the NC500, just ‘Inverness’. They need a sign like they have in John O’Groats.

    Satisfied that I had ridden every inch of the NC500, I headed back to Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness. I stopped at the Loch Ness Centre to buy Jackie a souvenir birthday present, then I head to the Loch Ness Backpackers hostel arriving around 6.30pm.

    After checking in, I popped out for a Chinese takeaway, then returned to the hostel to eat my delicious crispy shredded chilli beef and plain chow mein. I then showered and wrote this blog before going to bed with my alarm set for 5.15am.

    This stunning scenery between Corrieshalloch Gorge and Lochcarron had made this my favourite leg of the NC500 route.

    Song of the Day - Wonderful Way To Go by New Model Army.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 9

    Day 8 - A Very Long Ride Home

    August 20, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I was awoken by one of my roommates at 3.50am who having come back from the toilet decided to chat to his girlfriend who was in the top bunk. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to get back to sleep, so I edited my blog from the night before that I hadn’t checked for spelling and grammatical errors.

    At 4.15am, I dragged myself out of bed, cleaned my teeth, dressed and packed my bag in the dark. At 4.37am, I fired up the my motorcycle and rumbled out of Drumnadrochit, probably waking half the residents. My ambitious intention was to try and ride home all in one day, assuming my backside and motorcycle engine could cope.

    It was still pitch black as I rode alongside Loch Ness on the damp, but thankfully straight A82 to Fort Augustus. The road continued alongside Loch Oich, then Loch Lochy to Spean Bridge and on to Fort William, where daylight was dawning. It was the perfect timing, because I stopped outside the Ben Nevis Distillery for a photo with a cloud covered Ben Nevis behind it.

    There was no time to stop any longer so I continued on to Oinch, then the gorgeous looking Glencoe, where I took the opportunity to top up with fuel. The A82 then took me along the most dramatic stretch of road with huge mountains looming up in the gloom all around. The road was wide with shallow sweeping bends which allowed me to get up a good head of speed as I whizzed past camper vans and tents pitched randomly close to the side of the road. I made a mental note to definitely return.

    The A82 still continued south through the valley to Clifton, Crianlarich and then alongside Loch Lomond. After passing Dumbarton, I crossed the Erskine Bridge, then picked up the M8 passing Glasgow until I joined the M74 with encouraging signs, (that I was making good progress), to the South and Carlisle.

    It was 4 hours into my journey when I finally properly stopped at Cairn Lodge Services where I purchased an overpriced Cumberland Sausage Bap and a coffee, then contacted Jackie to update her on my progress. 25 minutes later I was back on the saddle, having refuelled again, and was speeding down the M74 at a healthy 70 to 80 miles per hour.

    It was around 10.30am, that I crossed the border back into England, hurrah, and joined the M6. The wind started to pick up and threatening black storm clouds started to gather in the west dropping a few spots of rain on me. The digital motorway signs illuminated the message ‘YELLOW WARNING - HEAVY RAIN FORECAST’. Hopefully I could outrun the weather!!

    I raced past Carlisle, Penrith, Lancaster, Preston and then somewhere before Manchester I stopped again for more fuel. South of Manchester, I inevitably encountered roadworks, heavy traffic AND heavy rain. I was able to make good progress by weaving my way through the stationary and slow moving traffic. Luckily the rain and heavy traffic didn’t last too long and I was soon back to speeding on down the M6 , then the M6 Toll Road (£4.75 for a motorcycle) before picking up the slow moving M42 and on to the M40.

    I made a final fuel stop at Warwick Services, which was the most expensive fuel price at £1.70 per litre, compared to Glencoe, which was £1.39!! The final leg took me down the M40, around the M25 and down the M23. I parked my bike up outside my house at 4.35pm. My very long ride was 2 minutes short of 12 hours and was a total distance of 606 miles.

    After unloading my bike, I had a much needed cup of tea and a hot shower. Surprisingly my buttocks were not too achy, probably 8 days of constant riding helped, but I can’t say the same for my poor wrists, fingers and blistered palms.

    It had been a tough, sometimes uncomfortable, but a most enjoyable trip. I intend to properly reflect on the trip in a couple of days time with a final blog.

    Song of the Day - Stormclouds by New Model Army.    Read more

  • Simon and Jackie AnnalsNorth Coast 500
    Day 11

    Reflections On My NC500 Trip

    August 22, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    The trip was not how I visualised it would be. I had a romantic notion that I would be wild camping bedside lochs or beaches off the beaten track. I imagined warm balmy evenings with me sitting outside my tent admiring the scenery and observing the wildlife, whilst heating up a tin of something for my tea. After a comfortable nights sleep under just a sheet in my tent, I would go for a long morning hike and upon returning to camp, I would have a cool refreshing swim/wash in the loch or sea.

    Obviously it didn’t turn out to be like that. Even by Scottish standards the weather was unseasonably wet and windy. It was generally too damp to sit outside during the evening and the nights were freezing in my little tent. I didn’t have a sleeping bag and was forced in to wearing in bed every bit of warm clothing that I had including my jacket and walking/motorcycle boots. After just three nights in the tent, I resorted to staying in hostels with a proper roof, solid walls and a comfy bed with a duvet. I had planned for the trip to last 2 weeks, but the weather for the second week was forecast to be EVEN worse.

    When I had been planning for the trip I had to be economical in what I took, because I only had two motorcycle panniers and a top box for everything to be packed into. Unfortunately most of the clothes I packed I didn’t wear including my cargo shorts, beach shorts, adventure sandals and my neoprene shoes for swimming. In fact, I wore the same pair of jeans and boots for the entire trip. I also packed, but didn’t wear, suntan lotion, a baseball cap and sunglasses, because it wasn’t ever sunny enough and a midge head net, because apart from two short spells whilst camping in Wick it was too windy!!

    The trip didn’t get off to the best of starts when I was riding up the M23 and realised that I hadn’t noted the starting mileage on my odometer or set the trip. At my first stop at Donnington Park Services, I tried to rectify the situation by zeroing my trip and then I would add the miles I had already travelled. Unfortunately at some stage, I somehow managed to accidentally zero the trip again. I have since plotted my daily journeys on Apple Maps (see photos) and added up the mileage to be a 1,988 mile trip.

    The other incident that wasn’t in my plans was when I failed to put my bike stand down properly and the bike embarrassingly fell on top of me in a McDonalds car park just over the border into Scotland on Day 2. The back of left thigh was left badly bruised and I was limping for several days. The thought of hiking in that first week was out of the question.

    Despite the miserable weather, it was still an extremely enjoyable trip. My wet weather motorcycle gear kept me warm and virtually dry all the time I was astride my bike. The tent sadly was unbearable in the weather, but I had absolutely no problem in staying in hostels with dorms of 4, 6 or 12 bunk beds. The hostel facilities were overall very good, particularly the kitchens and communal areas. The staff were always helpful and the other guests, mainly mature adults, were generally respectful of the other guests.

    My most favourite part of the trip was travelling through the mountainous region of the north western Highlands from Lochinver down to Lochcarron. It was extremely scenic and picturesque. It deserved much more attention than just riding through it, stopping for the odd photo. It warrants stopping for several days and hiking through the wilderness, then moving on to another location in the region and doing it all over again.

    Although not on the North Coast 500 route, I would definitely spend a decent amount of time to explore the area around Glencoe. In addition I would also take a detour to visit the Isle of Skye.

    I am already looking forward to doing it all over again, clockwise this time, hopefully with Jackie, preferably in a camper van or if not in a car with a decent sized tent with chairs and a table AND a sleeping bag. I wouldn’t however go if the forecast was as wet and windy as that that I had to endure.

    Finally, the little present that I bought Jackie was a ‘Nessie - The Monster in a Wee Box’, (see the final photo). I’m not sure it compensates for cutting short Jackie’s original present of two weeks of peace and quiet!!

    Until the next time…

    Song of the Day - Angry Planet by New Model Army.    Read more

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice