Day 29 - Le Mont-Saint-Michel

We were both awoken by a screaming baby from the German family tent next to us. We weren’t the only ones awoken judging by the coughing coming from all directions.

I didn’t get back to sleep and I was up and about shortly after 7am. Around 9am, we commenced a leisurely packing up of all our stuff, had time for breakfast and a nice hot shower, including Jackie’s 20 minute beauty routine.

Fully loaded up, we drove out of camp with the Satnav set for Le Mont-Saint-Michel which was 178 miles away. The drive was pretty dull and we arrived in the vicinity of Le Mont-Saint-Michel around 3.30pm.

I had read in my guide book to allow for 30-45 minutes to walk to the island. We found the official car park, but saw there was a parking fee. We drove around looking for a potential free parking space in both senses of the word. We did, but it would require an even longer walk and I feared the possibility of being towed away which would have been totally disastrous.

As a result we bit the bullet and parked in the official car park, which cost €20 for between 30 minutes and 3 hours. We then commenced the 35 minute walk to the island with lots of other people who had only just arrived like us.

I was absolutely staggered at how many people were coming away from the island. It seemed impossible that there would have been enough room for them. I felt quite smug, that by arriving later in the day we had hopefully missed all the crowds.

We walked along the single road and then the relatively new bridge to the island. People were swarming everywhere and at the entrance were Police patrols and armed soldiers.

We entered the fortress through a large square hole in the wall and we were confronted by hundreds of people milling around on the cobblestones of a commercial street. The street slowly ascended with gift shops, food vendors and even the odd hotel. People dithering in front of us impeding our progress completely got on our nerves.

Apparently, Mont Saint-Michel typically sees around 2.5 to 3 million visitors per year. This translates to an average of approximately 6,849 to 8,219 visitors per day. However, the island experiences a significant influx of visitors, especially during the summer months and on fine weather days, with averages reaching 14,000 visitors per day.

At the other end of the scale, there are just 30 residents on the island and 12 monks and nuns.

We instantly looked for escape routes to lose the crowds. It was like we were in a giant stone maze. After 45 minutes we had seen enough to justify our detour to visit it. We didn’t have time to visit the abbey or museum or inclination.

Some Mont Saint-Michel Facts:-

Mont Saint-Michel is famous for its stunning location on a tidal island, its impressive medieval architecture, and its historical significance as a major pilgrimage site. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for the dramatic tides that can surround the island, and the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, which sits atop the island.

Additionally facts:-

1. Mont Saint Michel was built over a period of 1300 years commencing in 708 AD.

2. The idea came from a dream.
The Bishop Aubert of Avranches was visited in his dreams by Archangel Michel. The Archangel instructed him to build a church on the rocky island situated at the mouth of the Couesnon River.

3. The construction of the Mont Saint Michel represents the feudal hierarchy practised at the time. God is, of course, on top and after that comes the abbey and the monastery. The great halls are constructed below and at the bottom nearly outside the walls are situated the fisherman's and farmers’ housing

4. The English could never capture it.
The strong fortifications & high tidal waves made it impossible for the English to capture and conquer Mont Saint Michel during the Hundred Years’ War.

5. Mont Saint Michel was also a prison during the French Revolution in the 18th century, when there were hardly any monks left.

6. Mont Saint Michel is a very important pilgrimage site. From the 10th century, many pilgrims came to the abbey passing perilous routes and the sands covering the bay in low tide.

7. Mont Saint Michel has a replica.
William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy created a replica of Mont Saint Michel that was called St Michael’s Mount of Penzance.

8. The tidal waves in Mont Saint Michel reach nearly 14 metres which is the highest in Europe. In the early days, no one could cross during the high tides and the only way to the island was a tidal causeway.

We walked the 35 minute walk back to our car. We could have taken the tram which only takes 20 minutes, but it goes without saying that the queues were still enormous. We paid for our ticket and departed.

I’m glad we’ve seen it and taken a few photographs. It was probably not looking it’s absolute best because it was very cloudy all the time we were there. I’d be surprised if we ever return.

We drove 12 miles up the road for a quick McDonald’s, then we drove 198 miles to Dieppe Ferry Port. The journey was relatively scenic and we encountered next to no traffic throughout.

During the last leg of our journey to Dieppe, we were playing Sinead O’Connor on the stereo. One of the final songs as we neared the end was ‘Last Day of Our Acquaintance’, which seemed appropriate!

At just after 10pm, we arrived at our destination. Dieppe Ferry Port, only to realise for the second time in a row, that we were in the wrong place. We then had to make a mad dash to the other side of the port where our ferry awaited.

Twenty minutes later we were in the queue to show our tickets expecting to be oiked out, because our car with top-box was too high for what we’d paid for. Miraculously we got away with it (again) and were allocated a lane for high vehicles.

Every vehicle was given a cursory search and unusually everyone was made to get out of their vehicles and be scanned with a handheld metal detector. It was all very half-hearted!

Once on the virtually empty ferry, Jackie made a beeline for the cafe and got another 2 pasties for the price of 1 and a coffee.

Jackie is now asleep and gently snoring whilst I write my blog.

Song of the Day - Last Day of Our Acquaintance’ by Sinead O’Connor.Leia mais