• Day 23 Trabadelo to Las Herrerias

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 23 Trabadelo to Las Herrerias 10km

    I woke at 5.30 am, after a great night’s sleep in the comfortable Camino Y Leyenda. Breakfast was being prepared, and the lingering smell from the kitchen was appealing.
    I has planned 10 km today, in preparation for the ‘BIG CLIMB’ tomorrow.

    Today's stage could have been walked yesterday, but a little rest leaves me feeling refreshed and revitalised.

    The Main Street path, leads me, numerous times, under a huge viaduct. Although the surrounding landscape is beautiful, this huge cement construction could have easily distracted my attention.

    La Portela de Valcarce owes its name to being the access point to the Vega de Valcarce.
    I spotted a gate where feudal lords, of the past, charged a ‘portazgo’ to travellers who wanted to cross the valley (pilgrims included), something like what today would be a toll on a motorway.

    Almost next to Portela is Ambasmestas. It is called 'augas mestas' because the Burbia and Valcarce rivers converge within its walls.

    A couple of kilometres later and I arrived in Vega de Valcarce. This charming town serves as the primary entry point to Galicia from Castile, an area that was once exploited by criminals and bandits during the reign of Roman rule. They assaulted passing travellers, primarily pilgrims and merchants.
    For this reason, fortified surveillance sites were established to control the area.

    In medieval times, the Lords (Lordship) were responsible for gathering rites of passage. To ensure the safety of the pilgrims, two important mediaeval castles of Santa Mara de Auctares and Sarracan were occupied by knights of the Order of the Temple. Of these 2 castles, only that of Sarracín, from the 14th century, is preserved, having been built on top of a small castle constructed in the 10th century by Sarracín, son of Count Gatón

    After passing the castle, I made my way to Las Herrerias via a short climb.
    The town's name was derived from the four blacksmiths (one still visible), who worked with metals from the mountains of the area.

    Las Herrerias proudly looks over the Valcarce River where a set of buildings, called La Herreria exhibit small houses, the original blacksmith shop and an old mill displaying the machinery that replaced the previous hydraulic installation. The town, which is surrounded by rounded mountains and lush vegetation, evokes a sense of tranquillity and connection with nature for all passing pilgrims.

    A quote, I heard last night, is etched on my mind.
    “Losing fear frees a man, and makes him capable of reaching the truth”
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