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- Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 2:08 PM
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 950 m
SpainVilavella42°44’40” N 7°12’23” W
Day 24 Las Herrerias to Fillobal

Day 24 Las Herrerias to Fillobal 25 km
Once again, as it seems to be every day, I am up and out of the hostel at 5.30.
I’ve now walked more than a million steps.
My journey today, takes me through breathtaking landscapes that encompasses lush valleys, gently rolling hills, and charming villages. It spans over 25 km.
In the first hour, I had climbed over 2000 ft. It was tough on my whole body, excruciating on my hips and both shins were throbbing. I had to push through the pain barrier - one step, two steps……….
As I gradually ascended the next hill, my eyes encompassed the magnificent surroundings.
Suddenly, my body felt lighter, and my steps were less painful.
Miracle of the day.
The hamlet of ‘O’ Cebreiro, a hobbit-style settlement, is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery and a rich cultural heritage. Is was worth the climb to get there.
Pilgrims say it offers a captivating glimpse into rural life, with its famous traditional thatched stone houses and fairytale-like charm.
As this location holds historical significance and exhibits a distinct atmosphere, a significant number of pilgrims strategically plan this stop when establishing their route along the Camino Frances pilgrimage trek.
Adding to the allure of ‘O’ Cebreiro is the hearty Galician dishes and warm hospitality.
I was not disappointed.
After lunch and refreshments, I had another long and difficult ascent that would bring me to Alto do San Roque.
Most of the way up, it was so foggy, I saw nothing.
Once I reached the top, there was an impressive statue of a pilgrim, standing 20ft tall. Apparently, the views from this spot are breathtaking, but not today.
Following a short stop in the aforementioned fog, I started to work my way down, and suddenly realised I was now in Galicia.
The final push to Santiago de Compostela had started. I became very emotional.
As I pressed on for the remainder of the day, the fog started to lift, exposing the magnificent view of the surrounding area. The forests were thick with small, integrated settlements. Everything was lush, thanks to the yearly torrential rains that hit Galicia. I observed numerous small churches situated in uninhabited areas, many of which were equipped with bells that could be rung from the outside.
Had it been used, in the past, as a messaging system to alert others of danger?
There is a Pilgrim ‘tradition’ that one has to ring a bell of their choice. I decided to do this at the Church of San Juan near Fonfria.
I eventually worked my way along another long stretch of The Camino Frances and arrived in Fillobal. 8 hours climbing and walking.
A pilgrim saying - The Beast was put to the sword.
Foot soak, muscle cream, a bite to eat, and an early night. I am exhausted, sore and weary.Read more