Day 27 Barbadelo to Portomarín

Day 27 Barbadelo to Portomarín 18 km

Today's hike is another 18 km.
I am taking the classic route to Portomarín, through the picturesque Galician countryside.
In the hallway, I encountered a charming lady of 80 years of age. She explained that she was apprehensive walking in the darkness and therefore intended to wait until sunrise. “Why don't you join me?" I asked. "Thank you, I will," she replied and we proceeded, with the aid of a headlamp.

In the past, I have encountered individuals who speak and talk and talk. With my companion this morning, it would be necessary to multiply the word 'talk’ by 10. She walked fast and talked faster for the entire 18 km journey. I was now acquainted with her life history, including the names of her mother and father, the special marriage she had with her deceased spouse, and the reason behind her annual attempt to conquer the Camino de Santiago (in honour of her beloved husband), who passed away, unexpectedly, at the age of 46. She had truly never recovered from his death. The only occasion she had peace within her mind was on her yearly pilgrim walk. I felt her inner pain, loneliness, determination, courage, and faith.

A delightful addition to my growing ‘Pilgrim Family’.

Milestones that display the remaining distance to Santiago indicated I was approaching the 100 km cairn. I was overwhelmed with emotion, filled with excitement and satisfaction.

I eagerly walked among the ancient stone walls and small clusters of chestnut trees, and subsequently entered the hamlet of A Brea.
My companion completely ignored this important sign and continued to inform me about her cattle, sheep, and chickens.

Ecstatically, I approached the exit and there, in front of me, was the cairn, indicating that there was only one hundred kms left to reach Santiago.
My friend proceeded straight past it and continued her story.

Shortly after passing through Casa Morgade, I entered a charming wooded passageway adorned with vibrant leaves, some of which gracefully descended to the path below. From here, I began the steep descent into the small village of Ferreira, followed shortly by Mirallos, which will line the descent to A Pena.

A Pena is a town land with no more than twenty stone houses scattered throughout the beautiful meadows. The corredoiras (neighbourhood roads marked by stone walls) help me navigate the walled fields and leave behind almost 660 km.

After passing the houses of Moutrás, the road descended by way of a paved track, leading to Parrocha and Vilacha. From here, the descent became more pronounced towards the banks of the Miño River. I crossed the river and found a steep sloped staircase that led into Portomarin.

Today's walk proved to be a pleasant and enjoyable experience, offering exceptional views of valleys, forests, small hamlets, and a dearth of cafés. NO, NOT ONE.
It was 18 km without a break, refreshments, or tapas!
I was certain that my fellow pilgrim would need something to soothe her throat, but it was obvious that this was not one of her requirements.

There may be an opportunity for a refreshment enterprise on this part of the Camino.

My goal today was to reach my destination as soon as possible and carry out my daily routines, such as foot bathing, laundry, tapas, and, more importantly, watching the Ryder Cup.
It is the first time I have been unable to fully immerse myself in this important event for three to four days.

All arranged and I was sitting in the sun, unbelievably happy and extremely content. A beautiful, peaceful setting for such good viewing, then…..
“Terry, I thought I would join you to watch golf. The youngest son of my husband’s brother, who is 40 years old, is married to Teresa. They exchanged vows shortly after the birth of their first son, and now they have three children". She takes a deep breath and says, "Where was I? Brian plays off 8. Great golfer. Who is that teeing off"?

Ryder Cup with a difference, but I appreciated and loved every moment.Read more