Day 28 Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Day 28 Portomarin to Palas de Rei 24.1 km

Leaving Portomarin, alone at 5.30 am, I crossed an ancient footbridge over the Rio Torres.

Having walked along a country path for several km, the uphill climb commenced and continued for a couple of hours.

My mind was drifting to the final stage, but I had to stay focused on this part of my journey.
Today’s route would take me through many hamlets and small villages, all with their own story to tell.
Ascending and descending had again entered into my pilgrim walk.

Today, it seemed very quiet and almost lonely without my fellow pilgrim.

The subsequent few km witnessed the route running parallel to the main road, before deviating towards the small towns of Toxibo and Gonzar, which boast two hostels and a café, only accessible during the summer months.
The village was named after a Castro (large hill fort). The remains are clearly visible on the hillside.
I continued my journey to Hospital de La Cruz. As the name suggests, there was once a pilgrim hospital here, but other than giving the village its name, nothing remains of the building.
A small café served me some delicious tapas and very good coffee.

A further footbridge crossed the river, then a descent on an old country road,
I reached Ventas de Naron, and similar to Hospital de la Cruz, this village had a pilgrim hospital, built in the 13th century. This area is believed to have witnessed a battle between Christians and The Moors during the 9th century, wherein the Christians emerged victorious over the Emir of Córdoba.

After passing a small church and a wooden wayside cross, I steadily climbed the route to Sierra de Ligonde. This is the highest point of this stage, at 756 metres above sea level.
The views of a lush green valley are breathtaking.

The majority of elderly residents in the Galician mountains, except for farmers, relocate to larger towns or cities during the bleak winter months to live with relatives.

Another few hamlets and I approached a sign - Palas de Rey 10 kms.
I increased my pace as it’s the final day of the Ryder Cup.
The picturesque hamlets of Portos and A Calzada led me closer to my destination.

I made my way along the mountain top, my feet feeling tired, heavy, and aching.
Arriving in Alto de Rosario, I eagerly sought the mountain's viewing point. The day was clear, and the conditions were ideal.
Suddenly, I saw it in the distance, Monte Pico Sacro, the mountain that overlooks my ultimate destination, Santiago de Compostela.
Overwhelmed with emotion would be an understatement. It really is in sight. I can literally see the end of my Pilgrim journey.

I descended into Palas de Rei, and found my hostel and dormitory.
Now Ryder Cup viewing.Læs mere