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India....again
  • Jane Durham
  • Jane Durham

India....again

A 18-day adventure by Jane Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 24, 2025
    Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    Mudra welcome us to Delhi
    The MosqueOld old Delhi market16 chillis + a lime to ward off bad things.Big Sheik templeGhandi's last footsteps.

    The Golden Triangle Adventure - Delhi

    November 25, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The planning for this trip began back in April when our yoga teacher, the lovely Jo, announced she would be taking a group of her students to southern Goa for a 10 day yoga retreat. I got serious fomo & booked immediately. I then heard that Julie & Dana were adding on a Golden Triangle Tour, so I bravely asked if I could tag along. And here we are! We were slightly held up on our trip from Sydney as a once in 12,000 year volcano eruption occurred in Ethiopia, which resulted in volcanic ash being blown east across the Middle East to Delhi, our destination. So, as Cathay airlines did their due diligence, we were held up in Hong Kong airport for 12 hours with not much info and no comfortable sleeping spots available. We did our best with modern, yet extremely hard sleeping "slabs", definitely not designed for us. We did finally get away & I couldn't even stay awake for take off & managed to sleep for most of this sector. Got through rhe airport hoo ha & were met by our Delhi guide Sanjay & our lovely driver Yogish. We set off for our hotel & quickly discovered Delhi is nuts. Completely bonkers. The traffic - wow! Cars, tuk tuks, rickshaws & bikes all slide around each other, miraculously not hitting each other, accompanied by a cacophony of beeping horns, designed to alert other drivers you are coming through 🙄. Due to our late arrival, we couldn't get through everything on today's list, but we packed a bit in.
    Bustling, busy streets of Old Delhi by foot and bicycle rickshaws.
    A visit to the large red sandstone Jama Mashid Mosque, one of Asia's largest. There are lots of Muslims in Delhi - about 15% of the population, which is a big number.
    Lunch at with a pleasant IPA brewed on site and some tasty Indian food. We were then taken to what looked like an old Art Deco..ish cinema, which was actually an emporium of carpets, jewellery, clothing, ceramics etc. It went on for ever over several story's. Quite fascinating & we managed to escape without a) doing too much damage to our spending money or b) taking any photos.
    Next was more driving in peak hour traffic checking out monuments, and lots of government buildings which for some reason Sanjay thought we would be interested in.
    Last stop was Gandhi Smitri, a memorial & museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. Very interesting & poignant. He is still revered in India.
    Gratefully dropped back to our hotel which is small & very adequate.    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    The Grand Imperial Heritage Hotel
    Yes, there were Marigold garlands on arrivalFirst glimpse of the TajSalt cafeAgra Fort11Taj Mahal from Agra Fort through the lattice window221My room at the Grand Imperial Heritage HotelAdequate!1Might take that lotus basin home 🤍The pool at the Grand Imperial - unused by me.

    Agra

    November 26, 2025 in India ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Today began with a 4 hour drive to Agra &
    The Grand Imperial Heritage Hotel.
    We then met our guide, Barber at Salt Cafe for lunch & our first glimpse of the Taj. After lunch, we visited Agra Fort, a fine example of Mughal architecture & the stronghold of the Mughal Empire under successive generations. Originally a military structure made from red sandstone, it became a majestic palace & a World Heritage site. Huge! Barbara is a history buff so there was lots of information imparted!
    We continued on for a sunset tour of the Mehtab Bagh Garden situated on the Yamuna River opposite the southern side of the Taj Mahal. The dime is the last piece being cleaned & restored, hence the scaffolding. No chemicals for the cleaning, just cover the marble with clay, let it dry then wash it off. Easy! Dinner back at the hotel was a simple dish of kitchari for me, along with a very pleasant local Shiraz.    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    The Baby TajBeautiful craftsmanshipBaby Taj detail2

    Agra - Day 2

    November 27, 2025 in India ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    First up a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal. Celebrated for its architectural magnificence & aesthetic beauty. A symphony in the finest white marble & a tribute to eternal love, it was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife.
    Impressive indeed!
    Back to the hotel for breakfast & then to see artisans at work, sitting, filing, shaping & placing gemstones into intricate designs on marble. Ostensibly they are related to the artisans who did the intricate tile work of the Taj. Amazing, some of the pieces are only the size of a strand of hair! Then of course, there is a shop - so many beautiful pieces.
    Eventually, on my request we visited the Baby Taj. This tour is very flexible. It didn't disappoint. What a glorious, feminine building. It was built between 1622 and 1628 for Mirza Ghiyas Beg, the father of Empress Nur Jahan, and is often called the "Baby Taj" because it is considered a precursor to the Taj Mahal and a significant turning point in Mughal architecture.  I think I love it more than the Big Taj.
    We then drove 37kms to the red sandstone city of Fatehpur Sikri with its forts, palaces and forts. A massive endeavour which takes 2 hours to walk around. Punishing, si many hawkers including children it was quite overwhelming. We were dropping after our early start & no lunch but we did it!!
    Then a big 4 hour drive to the Red city of Jaipur. Unremarkable dinner on the way, complete with frequent power outages. We arrived at our beautiful hotel - Dera Rawastar Heritage Hotel & fell into our glorious beds. 💙    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    Palace if the Winds (Windows?)Temple detailTemple detailAmber FortAmber Fort, Hall of mirrorsStained glass, Amber FortSummer palace, Amber Fort. Note the cool colours used.Jal Mahal water palace

    Jaipur - Day 1

    November 28, 2025 in India ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, often referred to as The Pink City. The then King decided to paint the city pink for the visit of the Prince of Wales in 1876. Pink is the colour for welcome & hospitality. It is actually now more of a terracotta colour. As we entered through the city gates at night, the atmosphere was immediately different. Hard to explain as there was still mad traffic & horns blaring. Our first morning was a tour of the old city
    c/o The Pink City Rickshaw Co. This is a not for profit initiative aimed at providing employment for women from low income households. Fabulous!
    They dropped us at the wholesale fruit, veg & flower markets where we easily walked through & loved seeing the buzz of the commercial activity there. Everything so, so fresh! From there, a quick stop to see the Palace of the Winds to view its fabulous facade where the royal women could view festivities & processions behind screens where they couldn't be seen. Maybe it should be called The Palace of the Windows!
    And then to the Hindu Govind Devji Temple. Devotees go before & after work to worship here. A mass devotional experience, very different to that which I experienced with Anne in Tamil Nadu.
    From there by car to Amber Fort. It appears India loved their forts! This one was actually a royal palace with winter & summer residences, gardens & fabulous views from it's mountainous location. A quick stop to see the Jal Mahal water palace situated on a man made lake underneath the fort. Quite surreal!
    After lunch, again on my request, (so bossy!) we visited a textile factory specialising in block printing & they also madehand-madee carpets. I now understand about knots & carpets. How they make those patterns is incredible. One worker makes only 1 carpet pattern for their entire working life. Really ....running out of adjectives now!. Such craftsmanship.
    After lunch we were allowed to go shopping! One of the world's largest exporters of gemstones, this is the place to buy. But wait, what about the textiles Jaipur is famous for? Yes! We shopped for those as well at 2 locations. SO much fun. The SALESMEN ( not a woman to be seen) are generous in spirit, very patient & kind. Some purchases may have been made. 😊
    Back to the hotel for dinner which was excellent. I braved a mutton curry - Yum! & had a language lesson from our waiter who spoke 7 languages. 🙄
    The staff at this small, family run hotel are fantastic, not to mention very handsome. 😊    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler

    Jaipur - Day 2 - Part 1

    November 29, 2025 in India ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Another pre sunrise start to go to the Jhalana Leopard Conservation Reserve just outside Jaipur. 2 hours in an open jeep along bumpy roads to see if we could find the elusive leopards. Very cold too, we had to hire blankets. You guessed it, very near the end of the safari, no leopards had been sighted. Suddenly, the Jeep took off at speed. Obviously, word had come through! We arrived at a spot where other Jeeps were lined up.
    Everyone was pointing. There was a leopard mum & 3 cubs way, way up on the mountain top, playing in the trees. Of course, I couldn't see them 🤓. I saw a very blurry video but that was it. It was ironic as 2 nights ago there was a leopard seen not far from our hotel. Apparently, they leap over the reserve fence & head into town for a meal of street dog 😢.
    Back to base for breakfast & a short break before venturing out again.
    We visited the Jantar Mantar astronomical site built in C18. There we saw large masonry astrological instruments designed for the observation of astrological positions. Some are still working. Incredible as they are 300 years old. Nearby is the Royal Palace where the young King, 26 years old, lives with his mother, grandmother & sister. He is India's most eligible bachelor! You cannot go in, of course, but there is a museum next door where you can see ancient textiles, clothes etc. Outside, there is a beautiful dance courtyard with windows so the women of the court could view the entertainment without being seen.
    Lunch at the very nice museum Cafe before heading back to base for another rest. Phew!    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    Huge open courtyard where we dined.
    1Yes, there was Jacob's Creek red t p accompany our meal! They thought of everything 😊View from the rooftopFort in the background

    Jaipur - Day 2 - Part2

    November 29, 2025 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We were hosted for dinner at the home of a local family in the old city of Jaipur. Their home is in a large heritage listed building which has been in the family for 6 generations. Actually, our hosts belong to one of the 11 "noble" families which "sit" in importance just underneath the King of Rajasthan. How lucky were we? Our hosts & their 2 little daughters & grandmother were so welcoming & friendly. Our hostess was a scream, just like she was in a Bollywood movie. She didn't draw breath, but it was all so interesting and funny. We cooked a cabbage dish with all the spices to go with dinner which, of course, was delicious. The view from rheir rooftop was magical.
    What a night....what wonderful people. So grateful 🙏.    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    Ganesh "sclupture"! 😂You want fabric?Making resin braceletsWedding skirtsFootpath graffitiSO old!Ice cream from Jaipur's oldest maker. Delish 😋Rooftop where we tie dyed. Great views of the fort.Saying goodbye to our driver, Yogish. 💙Hotel goodbyes 😢. I became very fond of these 2 boys. So funny, cheeky & caring. 💙💙

    Jaipur - Day 3

    November 29, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    For our last day in Jaipur, our guide took us on a walking tour in the Old Bazaar area. It was a sensory overload of colours, sounds & smells. These vibrant markets have been operating for centuries, showcasing traditional handicrafts, textiles, jewellery & spices. Rajashthan has a rich cultural heritage! Many Indians here shopping, especially for wedding paraphernalia. It is wedding season now, so there was a lot of trade going on. Wedding dress/sari shops were the destination for all the female members of the familes; they all have to have their say! We also visited "sclupture" shops. Took me a minute to work that one out! 😂
    Then we were taken to the rooftop of a private house for a block printing demo & we had a tie dye lesson. Took me back to my childhood. The whole family was there, so welcoming & the Mum made us pakora & chai. While we ate drank & chatted, the neighbourhood kids all started flying kites from the rooftops. So lovely. Then it was time to say goodbye to the fabulous people at the Dera Rawastar Heritage Hotel. It was sad, they were soo good to us. Highly recommended. 😊
    Off to the airport, saying goodbye to our fantastic driver, Yogish, who carried us seamlessly through the highways & alleyways of the Golden Triangle. What a treasure!
    A 2 hour flight into Goa, then a nerve- wracking drive to our yoga retreat. Into bed gratefully at 12:30 a.m.    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    View from my roomMy room.2Yoga sala #2Dining space

    Polem Beach, southern Goa

    December 1, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    So here we are at Polem Beach right on the southern border of the state of Goa, on the Arabian Sea. We are at Ravi Yoga retreat, right on the beach. There is one other yoga retreat at the very end of the beach, but we don't see anyone from there. We have the beach to ourselves. Nothing to see here except the retreat grounds. Nothing to do but eat the most delicious and varied vegetarian foods, swim multiple times a day & practice our yoga in the open air sala. Quite surreal really. So lucky with a really beautiful group of people, all well travelled with so many stories to share.
    Simple, comfortable accommodation with all the mod cons you need. What can I say. Pretty perfect. 🙏🥰    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler
    Dana & Julie, my travel buddies

    More Goa outings

    December 7, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    This coastline is dotted with beaches beaches. We went to Palolem Beach, just to the north, just for a look see and the opportunity to prop up the local economy. Just as well as the shopkeepers were all saying how quiet it was. It was nice to see Indian families enjoying the beach. We returned to Palolem a few nights later for a seafood meal on the beach. Red Schnapper cooked in the Tandoor oven along with a cooling Mojito for me!
    Just lovely sitting right on the sand, watching the sunset.    Read more

  • Jane DurhamIndia....againTraveler

    Sunrise Boat trip & dancing!

    December 8, 2025 in India ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Up early for a sunrise boat trip with the locals. Got a bit closer to the coastline further north & around the island we have been staring at for days. A pod of lazy dolphins came to say, "Hi". Magical!
    Much later, after dinner, Ravi our host, organised some charming young local girls to do a traditional Goan dance for us. These dances are traditionally performed in temples for special celebrations. Sadly, these performances are dying out. The balancing of the brass ornaments was extraordinary. Very special indeed.    Read more

  • Trip end
    December 11, 2025
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