The unthinkable has happened.

The swell was huge today but it was a bit windy so we went for a lago. When we got down to the point there were like 5 guys out but loads of people sitting on the rocks whistling and hooting when people got waves which was a bit intimidating. Everyone surfing was barrel dodging so hard even though it wasn't closing out. There was real potential for me to get the biggest and fastest barrel of my life so while I was waiting out the back I decided that if I got one that looked makeable I was gonna go at it as hard as I could. The wave I caught was real fast and wally so I just charged down the line, did a cutty to slow down and then pulled in but unfortunately it was a bit quick and I didn't make it ://. I was very sad that my board snapped after only 3 sessions but spencer said everyone on the beach went nuts when I pulled in and the guys next to him were like "damn that was huge!!" so I suppose what I lost in money I gained back in respect ahaha.

I feel like its also worth mentioning that the convenience store across from our house lets you buy a handful of lollies for like 17cents :))) they also sell the best muffins I've ever had so that's pretty sick.

Rip board u deserved better 😔Baca lagi