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Te Araroa - New Zealand
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Te Araroa - New Zealand

Am 16. Novämber gohts los, uf mis abentür! Dr Te Araroa isch e langstreckewanderig wo neuseeland vom nördlichste zum südlichste punkt über 3000km durchquert. Ich wird i dene 3 mönet ca. 1500 km uf däm wäg wandere und freu mi, dass dir do drbi sit! Baca lagi
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    🇳🇿 Queenstown-Lakes District, Neuseeland
    Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Zitreis portalCriterion Hotel

    Oamaru

    12 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Dr Sahil (dr bsitzer vom hotel in Fairlie) het es zweits hotel in Oamaru. Wills quasi ufem wäg zrug uf Queenstown gläge isch, hani e nacht dört buecht. Und es het sich als eini vo mine highlight städt entpuppt! Dr ort het ganz vill victorianischi hüüser und me fühlt sich wie inere andere zit. Wäg dä hüüser und dr stimmig het sichs au als hub für steampunkt entwicklet - miteme spannende museum. Usserdäm sträunere zobe eifach chlini blaui pinguin durch strosse! Si hei mi bitz ad pinguin vom Madagascar film erinneret. Die iheimische säge, dass i villne vo de alte hüüser geister läbe. Mir hei aber d theorie entwicklet, dases eigentlich d pinguin si wo ibräche und geister lärm mache.

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    Sahil (the owner of the hotel in Fairlie) also owns a second hotel in Oamaru. Since it was more or less on my way back toward Queenstown, I booked a night there — and it turned out to be one of my favorite towns of the entire trip!

    Oamaru is full of beautiful Victorian buildings, and walking through the streets feels like stepping into another era. Because of this architecture and the overall atmosphere, the town has also become a hub for steampunk culture — complete with a fascinating museum.

    And in the evening, little blue penguins simply wander through the streets! They reminded me a bit of the penguins from the Madagascar movie. Locals say that many of the old buildings are haunted. But we came up with our own theory: it’s actually the penguins sneaking in and making ghostly noises.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    3Das si keini Albatross1

    Dunedin: Albatross Colony

    12 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    A däm tag bini no uf Dunedin gfahre und ha imene Airbnb übernachtet. Dört hanis gmüetlich gno, ha wösch gmacht und d chatz gstriichlet.

    Am nöchste tag hani idr stadt zmorge ässe und bi uf gschänkli jagt zum heinä. Spontan hani mi denn entschide doch no as ändi vo dr halbinsle zfahre - zu dr Albatross Colony.

    Das isch so beidruckend gsi! Si si riisig und zum grösste teil vo ihrem läbe sisi nid an land. Si si unglaublich effiziänti flieger und si in 2 wuche in Chile! Si sueche sich aber partner für s läbe, wo sich all 2 johr a däm ort wosi uf d wält cho si widr träffe zum paare. Idr colonie hets zu däm zitpunkt vier Albatross pääröi gha mit je eme baby. Usserdäm hets no e paar jugentlichi gha wome bim flirte und suche nach ihrem partner für s läbe het chöne beobachte.

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    That day, I drove on to Dunedin and stayed in an Airbnb. I took it easy there — did some laundry and spent time petting the cat.

    The next morning, I had breakfast in town and went hunting for little gifts to take home. Spontaneously, I decided to drive out to the end of the Otago Peninsula to visit the Royal Albatross Colony.

    It was incredibly impressive. The birds are huge, and they spend most of their lives at sea. They are astonishingly efficient flyers — capable of reaching Chile in just two weeks. Yet they choose a partner for life and return every two years to the very place where they were born to breed. At the time of my visit, there were four albatross pairs in the colony, each with a chick. There were also a few juveniles, which we could watch flirting and searching for their future lifelong partners.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1

    Catlins Roadtrip: Nugget Point

    11 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Am nöchte tag hei sich im Seán und mi wäg widr trennt. Är isch witer richtig Milford Sound und ich ha welle richtig Dunedin und Oamaru.

    Vorhär hämer aber no e gmeinsame stopp gmacht am ändi vo de catlins, in Nugget Point.

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    The next day, Seán and I went our separate ways again. He continued toward Milford Sound, while I headed north toward Dunedin and Oamaru.
    Before that, though, we made one last shared stop at the end of the Catlins — at Nugget Point.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1

    Catlins Roadtrip: McLean Falls

    10 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Am nöchste tag simer durch d Catlins gfahre mit ganz abwächselnder landschaft: wunderschöni küste und stränd, farmland mit vill schööf und beidruckende wasserfäll. Das si föteli vo de McLean Falls und Matai Falls.

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    The next day, we drove through the Catlins, passing through wonderfully varied landscapes: stunning coastlines and beaches, farmland dotted with countless sheep, and impressive waterfalls. These photos are from McLean Falls and Matai Falls.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    21

    Catlins Roadtrip: Surat Bay

    10 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Übernachtet hämer denn a däm tag im Poumawea ufeme camping platz, si aber am obe no zum Surat Bay Beach gfahre zum luege öbs seelöwe ume het. Do simer nid entdüscht worde! Scho glii isch eine am strand gläge und mir hei e mami und chind gseh schwümme idr bucht. Bitzli spöter sisi denn au usem wasser cho und mir heise vo bitz nöcher gseh.

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    We spent that night at a campsite in Pounawea, but in the evening we drove out to Surat Bay Beach to see if there were any sea lions around. This time, we weren’t disappointed!
    Before long, we spotted one lying on the beach, and we also saw a mother and her pup swimming in the bay. A little later, they came out of the water, and we were able to observe them from a bit closer — such an incredible moment.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Noodle suppeVellicht entdecket jo dir e pinguin

    Catlins Roadtrip: Curio Bay

    9 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Übernachtet hämer denn ufem zältplatz in Curio Bay. I has au grad widr erkennt. Dört bini uf minere letschte NZ reis au scho gsi. I minere erinnerig hämer dört au delfine und ganz vill Yellow Eyed Penguins gseh. Dasmol heimer leider nid so glück gha.

    Mir si rächtzitig bi dämmerig bim ussichtspunkt gsi wo d pinguine zobe hei chöme zum d babys füetere. Vo aug heimer leider au nach zwei stund keini gseh. E paar anderi beobachter wo e guete zoom gha hei uf dr camera, hei aber eine gseh. Schiins het vor e paar johr e schlimmi chrankheit unter de pinguine gwüetet - wäge däm hets leider hüt nüm so vill 😢.

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    We spent the night at a campsite in Curio Bay. I recognized it immediately — I had already been there on my last trip to New Zealand. In my memory, we had seen dolphins there and lots of yellow-eyed penguins. Unfortunately, we weren’t as lucky this time.

    We arrived at the lookout around dusk, when the penguins usually come ashore to feed their chicks. Sadly, even after two hours of waiting, we didn’t spot any. A few other visitors with strong camera zoom lenses did manage to see one, though. Apparently, a serious disease spread through the penguin population a few years ago, and sadly there aren’t as many left today 😢.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    2

    Classic Motorcycles Mecca

    9 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Bevor mir eus ufe Catlins Roadtrip ufgmacht hei, simer no e riisige töff sammlig und dr originali töff vom Burt Munro go aluege.

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    Before setting off on our Catlins road trip, we visited an impressive motorcycle collection and saw Burt Munro’s original bike.Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    2

    Burt Munro Challenge

    8 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Scho vor e paar wuche het dr Seán verzellt daser im Februar anes mehrtägigs töffrenne in Invercargill goht. Mir hei denn au gli usegfunde, dass das perfekt ufgoht dasi sicher am letschte tag vom renne au no cha go luege.

    Dr Burt Munro isch e bekannte töff-pionier us Invercargill gsi. Är isch bekannt worde willer töff umbaut het und drmit gschwindigkeitsrekord ufgstellt het. 1967 heter e wältrekord ufgstellt, wo bis hüt nid broche worde isch. D Burt Munro Challenge isch e mehrtägigs renne uf verschidene terrains und festival wo jedes johr zu sim gedänke verastaltet wird.

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    A few weeks earlier, Seán had told me that he would be attending a multi-day motorcycle race in Invercargill in February. We quickly realized that the timing worked out perfectly — I would still be able to catch the final day of the event.

    Burt Munro was a well-known motorcycle pioneer from Invercargill. He became famous for modifying his bikes and setting speed records with them. In 1967, he set a world record that still stands today. The Burt Munro Challenge is a multi-day racing event held across different terrains, combined with a festival that takes place every year in his honor.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    Luxmore Hut1KeaUssicht vom Mount Luxmore Summit1Luxmore Cave

    Kepler Track / Luxmore Summit and Hut

    6 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Sitem 5. Februar hani es auto woni die letschte täg vo dr reis no möcht gmüetlich und flexibel nä. I bis bim flughafe vo Queenstown go abhole und bi denn nacheme abstächer in Arrowtown richtig süde gfahre. I bi am Lake Manapouri glandet füre nacht und hamer dört überlegt wieni dr Fjordland Nationalpark am beste cha erläbe. Usserdäm hei d Neuseeländer e langs wucheänd wägem nationalfiirtig "Waitangi Day" (Unterzeichnig vode Abkomme zwüsche de Brite und Maoris), wases schwirig macht a däm wucheänd unterkünft z finde.

    Ganz idr nöchi vo Manapouri startet dr Kepler Track - das isch e witere vo dr Great Walks. I ha nid welle dr ganz mache, aber i ha kört dases sehr schön isch ufe gipfel vom Mount Luxmore z go und wenns platz het idr Luxmore Hut z übernachte. I ha glück gha und es het no e platz gha zum bueche! I hami also am morge ufgmacht und bi für 2 täg go ichaufe und ha mi rucksack usgsortiert zum nume s nötigste mitznä.

    Zerst isches öpe 1,5 stund em see entlang gange bis denn bim Brod Bay dr ufstiig gstartet het. Nach de TA wäg het sich dä ufstiig bitz wiene autobahn agfühlt (keini umgheite bäum, oder usgwäschene bächli und e schöne breite gmachte wäg). I bi guet vorwärts cho und schneller als dänkt bi dr hütte acho. Wills füre nöchste tag schlächts wätter gmäldet het, hani mi entschide dr ufstiig zum gipfel no a däm nomitag zmache. Obe ischme belohnt worde mitere unglaubliche 360° ussicht uf d bärge und seä vom nationalpark.

    D hütteübernachtig isch sehr gmüetlich gsi. Die hütte hetmi bitz mehr ane sac hütte erinneret. Si isch mit über 50 plätz riisig gsi und het gas zum choche zur verfüegig gstellt und het wcs gha mit spüelig! Es het au e hüttewartin gha wo übere nationalpark und d vögel verzellt het.

    Dr räge und wind het denn scho idr nacht agfange. Füre abstiig dure wald isch das aber nid so schlimm gsi. Usserdäm bini miteme dütsche woni idr hütte kenneglernt ha (i bi per zuefall zum znacht am dütschsprochige tisch glandet) go d Luxmore Cave uskundschafte. Die goht bis 3km i fels ihne. Nach e paar meter ischsi aber scho zimlich äng worde und mir hei eus nid traut vill witer ihne zgo.

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    Since February 5, I’ve had a car so I can enjoy the final days of my trip at a slower, more flexible pace. I picked it up at Queenstown Airport and, after a short detour through Arrowtown, drove south. I ended up spending the night at Lake Manapouri, where I thought about the best way to experience Fiordland National Park. It was also a long weekend in New Zealand because of the national holiday Waitangi Day (commemorating the signing of the treaty between the British Crown and Māori), which made it harder to find accommodation.

    Very close to Manapouri begins the Kepler Track — another one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. I didn’t plan to hike the entire track, but I had heard that the climb to the summit of Mount Luxmore was particularly beautiful, especially if you can stay overnight at Luxmore Hut. Luckily, there was still a spot available to book! So in the morning, I set off to buy supplies for two days and repacked my backpack to carry only the essentials.

    The trail followed the lake for about an hour and a half before the climb began at Brod Bay. Compared to the Te Araroa, the ascent felt almost like a highway — no fallen trees, no washed-out stream crossings, just a wide and well-maintained path. I made good progress and reached the hut faster than expected. Since poor weather was forecast for the next day, I decided to continue up to the summit that same afternoon. At the top, I was rewarded with an incredible 360° view of the mountains and lakes of the national park.

    The night in the hut was very cozy. It reminded me a bit of an SAC hut back home. It was large, with more than 50 bunks, gas for cooking, and even flushing toilets! There was also a hut warden who shared stories about the national park and its birdlife.

    Rain and strong winds started overnight, but for the descent through the forest it wasn’t too bad. Together with a German hiker I had met at the hut (by chance, I ended up at the German-speaking dinner table), I also went to explore Luxmore Cave. The cave extends up to 3 km into the rock, but after just a short distance it became quite narrow, and we didn’t dare venture much further inside.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Warte bis dr räge ufhört2Gfroreni beiBen Ohau11

    Section 8: Lake Tekapo - Lake Ohau

    2 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    D Te Araroa Section vom Lake Tekapo bis zum Lake Ohau isch glichzitig au teil vom Alps2Ocean velowäg. Das isch e super glägeheit gsi mine muskle mol bitz abwächslig zgönne! I ha in Tekapo für 2 täg es velo gmietet und zuesätzlich rucksack transport buecht. Die strecki goht de schöne türkisfarbige seä Lake Tekapo, Lake Pukaki und Lake Ohau und de kanäl zwüsche de seä entlang. Insgesamt sis 83km was grad schön gmüetlichi zwei velotäg macht.

    Dr ersti tag isch mit agnämem wätter losgange. Gli het aber e wind vo vorne das ganze bitz erschwert. Dr wäg uf asphalt und chisel, de kanäl entlang isch aber sehr agnäm gsi und die verschidene farbe sehr idrücklich. Gli vor minere akunft in Twizel hets denn afo tröpfele. Es het aber grad no vorem räge glängt s zält ufzstelle.

    Dr zweiti tag isch mit 38km dr chürzer velotag gsi. I ha am morge im räge s zält abbaut, ha mi rucksack füre transport abgä und bi denn zerst mol go zmörgele und hoffe, dass dr räge bitz weniger wird. Das isches denn ume mittag au und i bi losgfahre. Mit e bitzli gas gä si au die 10°C ushalthaltbar gsi. Zerst isches widr imene kanal entlang gange und denn imene schöne chline wägli im Lake Ohau entlang - mit blick ufe Ben Ohau - bis zu dr Lake Ohau Lodge. Dört hani mi am füür chöne ufwärme und e gmüetliche obe gha imene warme bett, eme tolle znacht und guete gspröch.

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    The Te Araroa section from Lake Tekapo to Lake Ōhau is also part of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail — a perfect opportunity to give my hiking muscles a bit of variety! I rented a bike in Tekapo for two days and also booked luggage transport. The route follows the stunning turquoise lakes Tekapo, Pukaki, and Ōhau, as well as the canals that connect them. Altogether, it covers 83 km, which makes for two pleasantly relaxed days of cycling.

    The first day started with mild weather, but before long a headwind made things more challenging. Still, the path along the canals — a mix of asphalt and gravel — was very enjoyable, and the different shades of blue were incredibly striking. Just before arriving in Twizel, it began to drizzle, but I managed to pitch my tent before the rain really set in.

    The second day, at 38 km, was the shorter ride. I packed up my tent in the rain that morning, dropped off my backpack for transport, and first went out for breakfast, hoping the rain would ease. Around midday it finally did, and I set off. With a bit of effort, even the 10°C temperature was manageable. The route first followed another canal and then continued along a lovely small trail beside Lake Ōhau, with views of Ben Ōhau, all the way to Lake Ōhau Lodge. There, I warmed up by the fire and enjoyed a cozy evening with a comfortable bed, a wonderful dinner and interesting conversations.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Mount Cook
    Schwumm im Lake Tekapo2Blue Lake wo jetz grüen isch wägem schrumpfe vom gletscherTasman Glacier2S erste teleskop idr Tekapo region

    Fairlie, Tekapo & Mount Cook

    1 Februari, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Nachem Motatapu Track hani mir vorgno e chlini pause rund um Tekapo zmache und s schöne wätter zgniesse. Churzfristigi unterkünft in Tekapo si leider sehr tüür gsi, wäge däm hani zwei nächt in Fairlie und eini in Tekapo verbrocht.

    Dr ersti tag in Fairlie hani mit zmörgele und wösch mache verbrocht. Im Laundromat bini mit zwei männer is gspröch cho wo sich als psitzer und manager vo mim hotel usegstellt het. Ganz spontan hani denn dr räscht vom tag mit ihne verbrocht. Si hei mi ufne schwumm im lake tekapo iglade. Erfrüschend und wunderschön isches gsi i däm blaue gletscherwassersee (und nid mol soo chalt wie erwartet).

    Zum zweite mol bini vo mine wanderstöck separiert worde. Die si nämlich mit dr Natalie uf Christchurch gfahre. Glücklicherwiis isch dr Seán grad per zuefall a däm tag via Christchurch in richtig Tekapo gfahre! Was e ganz e spontani widervereinigung mitem Seán und mine wanderstöck ermöglicht het.

    Dr Seán und ig hei denn am nöchste tag e usflug zum Mount Cook gmacht. Es isch e sunnige klare tag gsi mit bester sicht ufe Mount Cook die ganzi fahrt über. Mir hei e chline spaziergang zum Tasman gletschersee mit blick ufe gletscher gmacht und si no is visitor center vom Mount Cook Village.

    Zobe hämer e Stärnebeobachtigstour buecht. D region isch ebe gschützt vor liechtverschmutzig und es het mehreri observatorie. D lag so südlich uf dr ärdchugele und die trocheni lag im Mackensie Basin isch ab 1965 e wichtig gsi zum d stärnecharte wo nume vo dr südliche halbchugele cha gseh wärde z zeichne und z erforsche. Dr ganz tag hets perfekt usgseh für d tour. Und denn öpe e stund vorhär si d wulche cho... schlussändlich hämer denn e tour dinne gmacht. Was aber au sehr spannend gsi isch.

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    After the Motatapu Track, I planned to take a short break around Tekapo and enjoy the beautiful weather. Short-notice accommodation in Tekapo itself was unfortunately very expensive, so I spent two nights in Fairlie and one night in Tekapo.

    I spent my first day in Fairlie having a slow morning and doing laundry. At the laundromat, I got chatting with two men who turned out to be the owner and the manager of my hotel. Completely spontaneously, I ended up spending the rest of the day with them. They invited me to go for a swim in Lake Tekapo — refreshing and absolutely beautiful in that turquoise glacial lake (and not nearly as cold as I had expected).

    For the second time, I was separated from my trekking poles — this time because they had travelled back to Christchurch with Natalie. Luckily, Seán happened to be driving through Christchurch toward Tekapo that very day! This led to a wonderfully spontaneous reunion with both Seán and my trekking poles.

    The next day, Seán and I took a trip to Mount Cook. It was a sunny, crystal-clear day with perfect views of Mount Cook the entire drive. We did a short walk to the Tasman Glacier Lake with views of the glacier and also visited the Mount Cook Village visitor centre.

    That evening, we had booked a stargazing tour. The region is protected from light pollution and is home to several observatories. Because of its southern location on the globe and the dry conditions of the Mackenzie Basin, it has been an important site since 1965 for mapping and studying stars that are only visible from the Southern Hemisphere. The whole day had looked perfect for the tour — and then, about an hour before it started, the clouds rolled in. In the end, we did an indoor tour instead, which turned out to be very interesting as well.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    11

    Section 7: Motatapu Track

    27 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Dr ursprünglich plan wär gsi, zäme mit dr Natalie (woni übere Te Araroa Chat) kenneglernt ha, dr Two Thumb Track zmache. Scho bitz besorgt wägem vile räge idr letschte täg, het mi d Natalie in Christchurch am busbahnhof abgholt und si zu ihre hei gfahre. Nach e bitz research und abwäge, hämer eus entschide, dass die vile flussdurchquerige ufem Two Thumb Track z gföhrlich si. Mir hei aber e super alternative gfunde: dr Motatapu Track zwüsche Wanaka und Arrowtown (bi Queenstown). S wätter schiint dört super zsi und d trailnotes verspräche e sehr asträngende aber nid gföhrliche track.

    Dr Motatapu Track isch landschaftlich sehr unterschidlich gsi zu de bishärige sections. Dr wäg isch durch praktisch kei wald, drfür durch wunderschöni graslandschaft. Insgesamt goht dr wäg über vier hügel mit steile uf- und abstiig. Via verschiideni grat mit witer ussicht, gseht me idr färni immer was no vor eim ligt und scho früe hetme d hütte für die nöchsti nacht gseh. Die letschte beide täg si denn im und entlang em Arrow River durch es alts gold mining gebiet gange.

    So simer am nöchste tag richtig Wanaka losgfahre, hei ufem wäg no für pie inere bekannte bäckerei aghalte und hei s auto in wanaka deponiert. Am nomitag hämer denn dr ufstiig zu dr erste hütte in agriff gno. Scho uf däm erste ufstiig hämer e gschmack becho vo de steile ufstiig. I ha au s erst mol mi körper bitz mehr gspürt. D wade hei scho gli zue gmacht und hei vilm dehne brucht über die nöchste täg. Idr erste hütte (Fern Burn Hut) hämer bekanntschaft gmacht mit dr Camilla wo NOBO (north bound) wanderet. D Natalie het ihre mit ganz vill vertraue dr autoschlüssel gä und dr deal gmacht, dass si die nöchste täg dörf s auto bruuche, solang si eus am schluss in Arrowtown chunt cho abhole.

    Am zweite tag isch dr ufstiig ufe erst hügel witer gange. Eigentlich hät das sötte e churze wandertag si. Dr steil abstiig mit no witere chlinere ufstiig und grat abschnitt, het aber doch sini zit bruucht. D Highland Creek hütte isch voll gsi mit NOBO und SOBO wanderer. Mir hei grad no die letschte zwei plätz idr hütte ergatteret.

    Dr dritti tag isch asträngendsti und längsti tag gsi vo allne. Zwei hügel hämer bezwunge, mit jewiils witere steile uf- und abstiig. Bsunderst dr ersti ufstiig het bitz angst gmacht. Mitem schwere rücksack hani e paar mol dänkt dasi grad widr rückwärts hingere dr bärg ab kipp. Mir si aber guet vorwärts cho und heis mit guete gfühl gmeisteret. D ussicht bim zweite abstiig isch unglaublich schön gsi. Die wite täler und ussicht zu dr Roses Hut isch wunderschön gsi. Usserdäm hämer i dere hütte glück gha. Si isch i dere nacht praktisch leer gsi.

    Dr vierti tag het usem viertel hügel bestande am vormittag und denn us 6km wandere im Arrow River am nomitag. Für die crazy neuseeländer si nämlech flüss öpe glich gueti wanderwäg wie wäg.. s wätter und wasserlevel isch aber super gsi und mir hei richtig spass gha. S wasser isch maximum bis knapp über d chnüü cho, hei aber tiefi stelle müese um chlättere. Näbem fluss hei schöni lupine blüeht und mir hei immer mit eim aug nach gold im wasser usschau ghalte.

    Die letschti nacht, sowie dr letschti tag zrug id zivilisation isch im zeiche vo goldmining gstande. Macetown (dört hämer zältlet) isch zu goldminingzite (ca. zwüsche 1863 und 1900) e richtigs städtli gsi. Jetz si numeno überräschte und zwei cottages übrig. Dr rückwäg isch ca. 4 stund, durch s Arrow tal gange. Mir hei au immerwidr dure fluss müese, was e willkommeni abchüelig gsi isch. In Arrowtown het denn d Camilla mitem auto uf eus gwartet.

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    The original plan had been to hike the Two Thumb Track together with Natalie, whom I met through a Te Araroa chat. With some concern about the heavy rain of the past few days, Natalie picked me up at the bus station in Christchurch and drove me to her place. After doing some research and weighing our options, we decided that the many river crossings on the Two Thumb Track would be too dangerous. Instead, we found a great alternative: the Motatapu Track between Wānaka and Arrowtown (near Queenstown). The weather forecast looked excellent there, and the trail notes promised a very demanding but not dangerous route.

    The Motatapu Track turned out to be very different from the sections I had done so far. There was hardly any forest at all; instead, the trail led through beautiful open grasslands. Overall, the route crosses four hills, each with steep ascents and descents. Along the ridgelines, with wide-open views, you can always see what lies ahead — and often spot the hut for the next night from far away. The last two days followed the Arrow River and passed through an old gold-mining area.

    The next day, we drove to Wānaka, stopped for a pie at a famous bakery along the way, and dropped off the car in town. In the afternoon, we started the climb up to the first hut. Right away, the steep ascent gave us a taste of what was to come. For the first time, I really felt my body — my calves tightened up quickly and needed lots of stretching over the following days. At the first hut (Fern Burn Hut), we met Camilla, a NOBO (northbound) hiker. With impressive trust, Natalie handed her the car keys, making a deal that Camilla could use the car over the next few days as long as she picked us up in Arrowtown at the end.

    On the second day, we continued climbing the first hill. It was supposed to be a short hiking day, but the steep descent, followed by more smaller climbs and ridge sections, took longer than expected. Highland Creek Hut was packed with both NOBO and SOBO hikers, but we managed to grab the last two available spots.

    The third day was the longest and most strenuous of the entire track. We tackled two hills, each with steep ascents and descents. The first climb in particular felt intimidating — with a heavy pack, I had a few moments where I thought I might tip backwards down the slope. Still, we made steady progress and got through it feeling strong. The views during the second descent were incredible: wide valleys opening up and a stunning outlook toward Roses Hut. We were lucky there too — the hut was almost empty that night.

    The fourth day consisted of the fourth and final hill in the morning, followed by about 6 km of walking in the Arrow River in the afternoon. For crazy New Zealanders, rivers are apparently just as good as trails. Luckily, the weather and water levels were perfect, and we had a lot of fun. The water was mostly just above knee-deep, though we did have to scramble through deeper sections. Beautiful lupins were blooming along the riverbanks, and we kept one eye on the water, half-hoping to spot some gold.

    The final night — and the last day back to civilization — was all about gold mining. Macetown, where we camped, used to be a proper town during the gold-mining era (roughly between 1863 and 1900). Today, only ruins and two small cottages remain. The walk back took about four hours through the Arrow Valley, with multiple river crossings along the way — a very welcome way to cool off. In Arrowtown, Camilla was waiting for us with the car.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Lake Rotoiti
    Travers river1Travers fallsUpper Travers Hut1Travers SaddleSabine RiverLake Rotoroa

    Section 6: Travers Sabine Circuit

    20 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Dr Travers Sabine Circuit isch e wunderschöni tour im nelson lakes nationalpark und isch bitz e abgändereti section vom te araroa. D rundi startet und ändet im dorf saint arnaud, am lake rotoiti, goht s im travers river entlag s tal ufwärts, übere travers saddle und denn s sabine tal abwärts zum lake rotoroa und denn nomol übere bärgkamm zrug uf saint arnaud.

    Nacheme lange reisetag vo christchurch zerst mit bus uf blenheim und per autostöpple uf saint arnaud, starti am mentig, am 5i zobe die ersti etappe - 3h em see entlang zu dr lakehead hut. Dört erwartet mi e riisigi familie wo e übernacht usflug zu dr hütte gmacht hei. D stimmig isch guet und es längt grad no zum znacht ässe bevors dunkel wird.

    Scho gli isch klar gsi, dass am donnstig e grossi rägefront chunt mit rägewarnig ufem travers saddle. Optimalerwis sötti also vorem start vom räge drüber si. Das het bedütet dasi am zischtig ha müese e doppetappe mache und bis zu dr hütte (upper travers) grad unterem saddle ufstiige. Es isch e wunderschöne tag gsi und ha mit vill energie und gueter luune dä wunderschön ufstiig gmacht.

    Am mittwuch isch denn dä lang tag übere travers saddle agstange. Am morge hets scho e bitzeli tröpfelet, aber mir hei eus nid lo ischüchtere. I hami mitere finnin wo dr TA uf dr südinsle macht zämegschlosse. Dr höchsti punkt hämer denn scho so nach 2 stund erreicht. Es isch e chalte wind gange, was nid zu langem verharre iglade het. Bim erste teil vom abstiig hetme e wunderschöni ussicht ufs sabine tal gha (dört unge isch irgendwo die nöchsti hütte). Dr abstiig isch lang und steil gsi. Mir si aber früe idr hütte gsi und mini begleitig isch a däm obe sogar no witer zum blue lake (wo d TA etappe dure goht).

    I dere nacht het denn dr gross räge agfange. Es isch aber e erlichterig abem mittag in ussicht gstange (via garmin inreach grätli hämer dr wätterbricht via satelit empfange). Wäge däm hani bitz chöne usschlofe und ha denn dr "churz" tag (ca. 5 stund abstiig zu dr sabine hut am lake rotoroa) öpe am 11 gstartet. Dr churz tag het sich als rächt asträngend usegstellt. E sturm e paar wuche vorhär het zimlich schade am wäg gmacht und mehreri teil über chlini bächli si wäg gspüelt worde (inkl. Brugge). I bi also vill über bäum und stei gchlätteret und durch bächli balanciert. Drfür hets am ziil e schwumm im see gä.

    Durch das dasi mim plan e tag vorus gsi bi, hani mit gedanke gspiilt die planti 9h etappe und a däm tag nume dr 5 stündig ustiig zu dr speargrass hut zmache. E paar vo de andere idr hütte hei das au in betracht zoge. I hami also ufe wäg gmacht, duch e wunderschöne buechewald mit schwarze rinde (das entstoht durch e biologische prozäss wo insekte honigtau us dr rinde suuge und s wachstum vomene schwarze pilz verursacht). Richtig magisch isches gsi. Wili aber scho am 2 am nomitag bi dr hütte gsi bi und widr räge agstande isch (do isch e warmi duschi und e trochnigs hotelzimmer schoni verlockend), hani dr 4 stündig abstiig denn au no gmacht.

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    The Travers–Sabine Circuit is a beautiful loop in Nelson Lakes National Park and a slightly altered section of the Te Araroa. The circuit starts and ends in the village of St Arnaud at Lake Rotoiti. It follows the Travers River up the valley, crosses the Travers Saddle, then descends through the Sabine Valley to Lake Rotoroa, before climbing back over a ridge to return to St Arnaud.

    After a long travel day from Christchurch — first by bus to Blenheim and then hitchhiking to St Arnaud — I started the first stage on Monday evening at around 5 p.m.: a three-hour walk along the lake to Lakehead Hut. There, I was greeted by a huge family who had come up to the hut for an overnight trip. The atmosphere was lively and warm, and there was just enough time to eat dinner before it got dark.

    It quickly became clear that a major rain front with heavy rain warnings for the Travers Saddle was expected on Thursday. Ideally, I needed to be across before the rain arrived. That meant hiking a double stage on Tuesday and climbing all the way up to Upper Travers Hut, just below the saddle. It turned into a beautiful day, and I tackled the stunning ascent with lots of energy and a great mood.

    Wednesday was the big day over the Travers Saddle. It was already lightly raining in the morning, but we didn’t let that intimidate us. I teamed up with a Finnish hiker who is walking the Te Araroa on the South Island. We reached the highest point after about two hours. A cold wind was blowing, which didn’t invite lingering for long. During the first part of the descent, we had gorgeous views down into the Sabine Valley, where the next hut lay far below. The descent was long and steep, but we reached the hut early, and my hiking partner even continued on to Blue Lake that evening (where the Te Araroa section passes).

    That night, the heavy rain set in. However, the forecast showed an improvement from midday onward (we received the weather update via satellite on the Garmin inReach). Because of that, I was able to sleep in a bit and didn’t start the “short” day — about five hours of descent to Sabine Hut at Lake Rotoroa — until around 11 a.m. The short day turned out to be surprisingly demanding. A storm a few weeks earlier had caused significant damage to the track, and several crossings over small streams had been washed out (including bridges). I spent a lot of time scrambling over fallen trees and rocks and balancing through creeks. The reward at the end was a swim in the lake.

    Since I was now a day ahead of my original plan, I briefly considered splitting the planned nine-hour final stage and only hiking the five-hour climb up to Speargrass Hut that day. A few others at the hut were considering the same option. So I set off through a beautiful beech forest with blackened bark — caused by a biological process where insects feed on honeydew from the trees, allowing a black fungus to grow. It felt truly magical. But since I reached the hut as early as 2 p.m. and rain was moving in again — and the thought of a hot shower and a dry hotel room was very tempting — I decided to continue on and also complete the four-hour descent that same day.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Titanwurz
    HägglundUS Airfore - fliegt id Antarktis1

    Christchurch

    17 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Dr plan isch gsi, zwei täg in christchurch z verbringe, dr Pascal und d Elena z träffe und denn widr ufe z reise für die nöchsti wanderig. Leider ischs mir psychisch nid so guet gange. Wäge däm hani nomol zwei täg verlängeret. Was e super entscheid gsi isch!

    Ufm wäg vo kaikoura uf christchurch hani e französischi Lea wo au IT-Projekt macht kenneglernt. Nachem ichecke im hostel bini denn mit ihre go znacht ässe und über unterschid und glichi herusforderige in projekt in frankriich und idr schwiz fachsimple.

    Am nöchste tag hani denn mitem Pascal und dr Elena zum brunch abgmacht und mir hei e schöne tag zäme verbrocht. Bimene spaziergang zum botanische garte hämer sogar d Titanwurz gseh blüeie. Leider ischs denn für si a däm obe scho zrug id schwiz gange.

    Am nöchste tag isch denn mi chlii zämebruch cho. S wächsle zwüsche körperlicher und mentaler asträngig und denn widr pause, isch glaub für mi bitz asträngender asi dänkt ha. Alli plante witere wanderige heimer so vill mehr angst gmacht, obwohl ich rational gwüsst ha dases guet wird. Mit 2 täg verlängere hani denn widr bitz mehr chöne im momänt luege wasmer guet duet und bitz druck usenä.

    Am einte tag bini is Quake Museum, wos um die grosse ärdbebe in Christchurch (2010, 2011) gange isch. I ha glernt dases nid nume eis ärdbebe gsi isch sondern e ganzi serie i dene johr, wo scho einigi instabilität idr infrastruktur verursacht het. Das ärdbebe am 22. Februar 2011 isch eigentlich nid s stärkste gsi, aber s epizentrum isch nöch vo dr stadt gsi und het sogenannts "Liquefaction" verursacht - dr bode isch e art flüssig worde vo dr vibration. Das het verursacht dass vill gebäude igstürzt oder umkippt si und vill todesopfer und zerstörig gforderet het.

    Am vierte tag bini is International Antarctic Center. Christchurch isch e wichtige usgangsort für expeditione und forschig idr antarktis. Im center lerntme über die verschidene diszipline wo gforscht wird, über s internationale abkomme wo gmacht het, dass d antarktis keim land kört, über die erste durchquerige und über d forschigsstatione wos dört het. Me cha go pinguin aluege und miteme Hägglund go ume fahre.

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    I had planned to spend a few days in Christchurch, meet Pascal and Elena, and then head off again for the next hike. Unfortunately, I wasn’t doing well mentally. Because of that, I decided to extend my stay by another two days — which turned out to be a very good decision.

    On my way from Kaikōura to Christchurch, I met Léa from France, who also works in IT project management. After checking into the hostel, we went out for dinner together and ended up having a long, nerdy conversation about similarities and differences — and shared challenges — in projects in France and Switzerland.

    The next day, I met Pascal and Elena for brunch, and we spent a lovely day together. During a walk through the Botanical Gardens, we even got to see the Titan arum in bloom. Sadly, they had to fly back to Switzerland that same evening.

    The following day was when I had a bit of a breakdown. The constant switching between physical and mental strain and then resting again turned out to be more exhausting for me than I had expected. All the upcoming hikes suddenly felt overwhelming, even though I rationally knew everything would be fine. By extending my stay by two more days, I was able to focus more on what felt good in the moment and take some pressure off.

    One day, I visited the Quake Museum, which focuses on the major earthquakes in Christchurch in 2010 and 2011. I learned that it wasn’t just a single earthquake, but a whole series over several years that had already caused significant instability in the city’s infrastructure. The earthquake on February 22, 2011, wasn’t actually the strongest, but because the epicenter was so close to the city, it caused what’s known as liquefaction — the ground essentially behaved like a liquid due to the intense shaking. As a result, many buildings collapsed or tilted, leading to widespread destruction and loss of life.

    On the fourth day, I visited the International Antarctic Centre. Christchurch is a major gateway for expeditions and research in Antarctica. At the centre, you learn about the different scientific disciplines involved, the international agreement that ensures Antarctica belongs to no single country, the early crossings of the continent, and the research stations located there. You can also see penguins and ride in a Hägglund vehicle.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara

    Kaikoura

    14 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Ufem wäg richtig Christchurch hani no e zwüschehalt in kaikoura gmacht. Leider isch s wätter zschlächt gsi fürne wanderig ufe Mount Fyffe. Aber es es het glich no fürne spaziergang zu de robbe vorem räge glängt.

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    On my way toward Christchurch, I made a stop in Kaikōura. Unfortunately, the weather was too bad for a hike up Mount Fyffe. But it was still good enough for a walk to see the seals before the rain set in.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    11

    Wine Tasting Marlborough

    12 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    D Marlborough region isch als wii region bekannt - vorallem für Sauvignon Blanc. Rund um Renwick und Blenheim, im Wairau Valley, hets über 150 vinyards und wineries wome cha go psueche und wii tastings mache. E guete usgangspunkt drfür isch Renwick, do chame mitem velo ganz guet vo eim ort zum andere cho.

    I ha für das zwei nächt imene härzige Inn verbrocht, woni dr einzig gast gsi bi und mi im huus ha chöne usbreite. Im priis inbegriffe isch au es velo gsi zum uslehne. So ume mittag ume bini denn loos und bi go d Bladen Wines und Framingham Wines psueche. Bladen isch es chlises familieunternähme. D tochter het au e eistündigi tour gmacht und het d gschicht vom unternähme verzellt und über die verschidene truube sorde gredet. Framingham isch die ersti gsi wo Riesling abaut het - dört hani es Riesling Tasting gmacht. 2 fläsche hani gkauft, woni die nöchste 4 täg sött drinke, süscht muesise denn bim witerwandere mittraage.

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    The Marlborough region is well known as a wine region — especially for Sauvignon Blanc. Around Renwick and Blenheim, in the Wairau Valley, there are more than 150 vineyards and wineries where you can visit and do wine tastings. Renwick is a great base for this, as it’s easy to get from one place to another by bike.
    I spent two nights at a charming inn, where I was the only guest and could really spread out and enjoy the place. The price even included a bike to borrow. Around midday, I set off to visit Bladen Wines and Framingham Wines. Bladen is a small family-run winery. The daughter even gave a one-hour tour, sharing the story of the business and talking about the different grape varieties. Framingham was the first winery in the region to grow Riesling, and that’s where I did a Riesling tasting. I bought two bottles, which I now have to drink over the next four days — otherwise I’d have to carry them along while hiking.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    Picton
    Wassertaxi1Ship Cove1Stachelroche1Stachelroche231Wekas mit babiesMini schue dörfe mit ihre grosse brüedere laufe1

    Section 5: Queen Charlotte Track

    7 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Dr Te Araroa uf dr südinsle startet mitem wunderschöne Queen Charlotte Track ide Marlborough Sounds - eine vode Great Hikes of New Zealand! 75km innerhalb vo 4 täg vo Ship Cove bis Anakiwa.

    Bi wunderschönem wätter hani am morge vom 7. Jan s wassertaxi vo Picton zu Ship Cove gno. Unterwägs hämer sogar no e delfin und robbe gseh! Ship cove het au e historischi bedütig. Dört het dr capitain cook einigi zit verbrocht, zum sich vo dr lange pazifikreis erhole und s umligende neuseeland z erkunde. Dr ersti wandertag isch denn 17km, mit zwei steile ufstiig bis zum Endeaver Inlet gange. Dört hani im "Eco Camp" zältlet und ha no znacht buecht wo dr camp host gkocht het - es 5 gang menü mit früschem fisch! D abentür si aber no witergange: nachem ässe simer mit drei anderne wanderer go glüehwürmli sueche und go biolumineszierends plankton im meer luege.

    Am nöchste tag hani mi spontan umentschide und dasi e churze wandertag mach und idr nöchste bucht, statt ufem zältplatz obe ufem bärg zältle. Das gitmer d möglichkeit dr nomitag am strand zverbringe (Punga Cove) und bitzli zit zha mit dr Hawaiki (e neui fründin vo Frankriich/Tahiti). A dere bucht hets sogar e bar gha womer hei chöne go aperol spritz drinke. Usserdäm hämer chöne mit stachelroche bade! Die hämer zwar bitz angst gmacht, aber schiins mache si nüd.

    Wägem churze zweite tag, isch drfür dr 3. Tag e lange gsi: 25km miteme lange astiig am afang. I hami aber fit gfühlt und es isch e churzwilige, sunnige tag gsi mit schöne ussichte. E teil bini miteme dütsche TA walker gluffe (mit de gliche schueh wie ich!). Au die nöchsti nacht isch anere bucht gsi (cowshed bay), was widr e schwumm im meer und e glas wii idr lodge näbdra ermöglicht het.

    Dr letschti wandertag isch widr e lange gsi - 20km bis uf Anakiwa. E grosse teil isch übere grat gange. Was widr e steile ufstiig am afang mitsich brocht het und denn nacher schöni ussicht bis picton und de bärge idr marlborough region. In Anakiwa het denn e duschi und e richtigs bett uf mi gwartet.

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    The Te Araroa on the South Island begins with the stunning Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds — one of New Zealand’s Great Hikes. It covers 75 km over four days, from Ship Cove to Anakiwa.

    In beautiful weather, I took the water taxi from Picton to Ship Cove on the morning of January 7. On the way, we even spotted a dolphin and a seal! Ship Cove also has historical significance: Captain Cook spent time here to recover from his long Pacific voyages and to explore the surrounding parts of New Zealand. The first hiking day covered 17 km, including two steep climbs, and ended at Endeavour Inlet. I camped at the Eco Camp there and booked dinner, which the camp host cooked — a five-course meal with fresh fish! But the adventures didn’t stop there: after dinner, four of us went searching for glowworms and watched bioluminescent plankton light up the sea.

    On the second day, I made a spontaneous decision to keep the hike short and camp in the next bay instead of staying at a campsite up on the ridge. That gave me the chance to spend the afternoon at the beach at Punga Cove and enjoy some time with Hawaiki, a new friend from France/Tahiti. There was even a bar at the bay where we treated ourselves to Aperol Spritz. We also went swimming with stingrays! They looked a bit intimidating, but apparently they’re harmless.

    Because the second day was short, the third day turned into a long one: 25 km with a lengthy climb right at the start. I felt fit, though, and it turned into an enjoyable, sunny day with beautiful views. I walked part of the way with a German TA hiker — wearing the exact same shoes as me! That night was spent at another bay, Cowshed Bay, which meant yet another swim in the sea and a glass of wine at the nearby lodge.

    The final hiking day was long again — 20 km to Anakiwa. A large portion followed the ridgeline, starting with a steep climb and then opening up to stunning views toward Picton and across the mountains of the Marlborough region. In Anakiwa, a hot shower and a real bed were waiting for me.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    Neujohrs brunch
    1Letschti folg stranger things1Airbnb usserhalb vo wellingtonMount Victoria ussichtParlamänt WellingtonSchue putze vor dr witerreisDo gohter..1Truurigi Lia1Cook strait fähri nach Picton

    Wellington / Abschid vom Leon

    1 Januari, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Nach de Tararuas hämer no e paar täg gha zum uf Wellington reise, bevor dr Leon widr hei greist isch. Mir hei Silvester sehr gmüetlich imene Motel in Levin, mit Takeaway ässe und Netflix verbroch. Vorallem uf die letschti Stranger Things folg hämer eus gfreut!

    Wie das so isch, wenn plötzlich rueh ichehrt, simer beidi bitz chrank worde. Zerst hets bi mir gstartet mit laufender nase und glider schmärze. E paar tag spöter isches denn au bim Leon cho. Wäge däm hamers sehr gmüetlich gno. Mir si vo Levin uf Wellington greist und hei die ersti nacht imene wunderschöne airbnb usserhalb vo Wellington, mit sicht uf d bucht, verbrocht. Am nöchste tag simer denn mehr is stadtzentrum id jugi und hei vor dört us d zit verbrocht mit ässe, zum mount victoria spaziere, bade im meer, emene kino psuech und in härzige kafis die witere täg plane.

    Am morge vom 6. Jan het denn dr Leon dr bus uf Auckland gno und ich d fähri uf d südinsle. Es isch komisch und truurig gsi zum elei witer go. Aber i bi au mit vill vorfreud uf d südinsle und ufe queen charlotte track witergreist.

    ------

    After the Tararuas, we still had a few days to travel toward Wellington before Leon headed back home. We spent New Year’s Eve very quietly in a motel in Levin, with takeaway food and Netflix. We were especially looking forward to the final episode of Stranger Things!

    As often happens when things suddenly slow down, we both ended up getting a bit sick. It started with me — a runny nose and aching joints — and a few days later Leon caught it too. So we took things very easy. We traveled from Levin to Wellington and spent the first night in a beautiful Airbnb just outside the city, with a view over the bay. The next day, we moved closer into the city and stayed at a hostel, using it as a base to enjoy our time in Wellington: eating well, walking up Mount Victoria, swimming in the ocean, going to the cinema, and planning the next days in cute cafés.

    On the morning of January 6, Leon took the bus back to Auckland, and I boarded the ferry to the South Island. It felt strange and sad to continue on my own. But I was also filled with excitement for what was ahead — heading south toward the Queen Charlotte Track and the next chapters of the journey.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    21WC mit ussichtDr sturm startetFestmahl währendem sturm1Dr nöchsti tag

    Section 4: Tararua Ranges

    29 Disember 2025, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    D tararua ranges si bitz nördlich vo Wellington und die section is beschribe als eini vo de schwirigste uf dr nordinsle, wills scho zimlich alpin und wild isch und s wätter sehr schnäll cha wächsle. Wäge däm hämer au für 6-7 täg ässe packt und im vorus güebt mitem garmin inreach grätli wätterbricht z empfange. Mit däm wüsse und bitz nervosität im buuch simer am 28. Dez vo Levin a trail head gstöpplet und bi wunderschönem wätter losgluffe. Mir hei scho gwüsst, dass am 30. Dez bitz räge wird cho und mir dr teil übere grat und pass guet müese verwütsche.

    Am erste tag hämer sicher mol welle die 900 höhemeter zu dr erste hütte ufstiige und wenns längt no bis zu dr zweite hütte witer go. Nachem lange ufstiig dure dichte wald und schlamm und wägem wunderschöne usblick vo dr erste hütte (waiopehu hut) hämer eus entschide, dört z übernachte. Bim wätter checke am obe, hämer denn gmerkt, dass e starke wind scho am zweite tag öpe am 5i zobe wird starte und dases e wind warnig für idr nacht vom 29. und dure tag vom 30. gmäldet isch. Wäge däm hämer dr wecker uf die 5i gstellt zum vill vom tag zha.

    Scho mit bitzli wind, aber sunnigem wätter, simer am zweite tag über 3 gipfel gstiige mit wunderschönem usblick uf d Tararuas. Dr wäg isch no bitz schwiriger worde, mit vill schlamm und steile uf und abstiig mit chlättere über wurzle und stei. Scho gli het dr wind azoge und es het bitz angst gmacht. Wäge däm hämer afo plän diskutiere. Mir hei denn entschide bi dr zweite hütte mol z luege wie dr sturm sich entwicklet. Und vorallem e sehr usgsetzti stell nach dr zweite hütte nid im sturm z wooge. Das isch für eus au e guete entscheid gsi - dr sturm isch immer stärker worde (ca. 150 kmh wind). Idr nacht het die ganzi hütte grüttlet und am morge isch no es fänster usegheit.

    Dr sturmmorge hämer idr hütte verbrocht und überlegt wasmer wei mache. Dr wätterbricht het gmäldet dases abem spötere nomitag guet wird, aber dases die nöchste täg immer widr rägnet und windet. Mir het das füre grat und füre pass wo die nöchste tag agstande wäre zfescht angst gmacht und mir hei eus entschide umzchehre und dr glich wäg widr abe zgo - dr vorteil isch au dasmer so silvester idr zivilisation chöne verbringe. Ufem rückwäg hämer s usmass vom sturm gseh. Villi umgheiti bäum und äst ufem wäg.

    Währendem sturm abwarte idr hütte si insgesamt 6 te araroa wanderer cho pause mache und si im sturm witer. I ha e bitz e krise gha öbi denn tough gnue bi zum überhaupt e section uf dr südinsle zschaffe, weni so vill weniger schaff wie die andere. Im nochhinein dänki dass d TA wanderer au bitz crazy si und ich die wanderige au möcht gniesse und nid möcht risike igo und wägem wätter gar nüd vo dr landschafft gseh.

    ---------

    The Tararua Ranges are located just north of Wellington, and this section is described as one of the most challenging on the North Island. It’s already quite alpine and wild, and the weather can change very quickly. Because of that, we packed food for six to seven days and practiced in advance how to receive weather forecasts using our Garmin inReach device. With that knowledge — and a bit of nervous excitement — we hitchhiked from Levin to the trailhead on December 28 and set off in beautiful weather. We already knew that some rain was expected on December 30, and that we would need to time the ridge and pass sections carefully.

    On the first day, our goal was at least to climb the 900 meters of elevation gain up to the first hut, and if possible continue on to the second hut. After the long ascent through dense forest and mud — and tempted by the stunning view from the first hut (Waiopehu Hut) — we decided to stay there for the night. When we checked the weather forecast in the evening, we realized that strong winds were expected to start around 5 p.m. on the second day, with a wind warning in place for the night of the 29th and throughout the 30th. Because of that, we set our alarm for 5 a.m. to make the most of the day.

    With some wind already but sunny skies, we climbed three peaks on the second day, enjoying beautiful views across the Tararuas. The trail became even more demanding, with lots of mud and steep ascents and descents, including scrambling over roots and rocks. Before long, the wind picked up significantly, which started to feel quite intimidating. That led us to discuss our options. We decided to reassess the situation once we reached the second hut, especially since there was a very exposed section just beyond it that we didn’t want to attempt in storm conditions. That turned out to be a very good decision — the storm intensified dramatically, with winds of around 150 km/h. During the night, the entire hut shook, and by morning one of the windows had blown out.

    We spent the stormy morning inside the hut, thinking about what to do next. The forecast predicted improving conditions later in the afternoon, but also ongoing rain and wind over the following days. The idea of tackling the ridge and pass in those conditions felt too risky for us, so we decided to turn around and hike back the same way we had come. One upside was that this meant we could spend New Year’s Eve back in civilization. On the way down, we could really see the impact of the storm — many fallen trees and branches were scattered across the trail.

    While waiting out the storm in the hut, a total of six Te Araroa hikers stopped by for a break and then continued on despite the conditions. I had a bit of a crisis, wondering whether I was tough enough to even manage a section on the South Island if I was turning back while others pushed on. In hindsight, I think TA hikers are a little bit crazy — and that I want to enjoy the hikes, not take unnecessary risks, and not miss out on the landscape just because of bad weather.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    Blick vom Airbnb
    Hälfe dr wäg schlammfrei phalte1Tupapakurua FallsHeiligobe fahrt im sunneuntergang13

    Wiehnacht in Rangataua

    23 Disember 2025, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Über d wiehnachtstäg hämer es härzigs Airbnb in Rangataua im Tongariro Nationalpark buecht. Es isch es härzigs hüsli mit wunderschönem blick ufe Mount Ruapehu gsi!

    Willmer gschmack gfunde hei dra d flexibilität vomene auto zha, hämer für die paar täg nomol eis gmietet und si sehr froh gsi. So hämer i nöchst grösder ort chöne go ichaufe, hei e paar wanderige vo dört us chöne mache und am heiligobe chöne go uswärts ässe.

    D wiehnacht im summer und wit wäg vo eusne familie isch bitz komisch gsi und scho nid s gliche wie dehei. Aber mir hei mit eusne familie per whatsapp call dr heiligobe verbrocht. Und am wiehnachtstag osch dr Seàn eus cho psueche. Mir hei zdritt e chlini wanderig gmacht und hei mit ihm znacht gässe und e gmüetliche obe mit schwätze, gitarre spiile und stärne beobachte verbrocht.

    --------

    Over the Christmas days, we booked a lovely Airbnb in Rangataua in Tongariro National Park. It was a cozy little house with a stunning view of Mount Ruapehu.
    Since we had really come to appreciate the flexibility of having a car, we rented one again for those few days — and were very glad we did. It allowed us to drive to the nearest larger town for groceries, head out on a few hikes from there, and go out for dinner on Christmas Eve.
    Christmas in summer, far away from our families, felt a bit strange and definitely not the same as back home. Still, we spent Christmas Eve with our families via WhatsApp calls. And on Christmas Day, Seán came to visit us. The three of us went for a short hike together, had dinner, and spent a cozy evening chatting, playing guitar, and stargazing.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    As links fahre gwöhneTe mata winery1Mir hei überläbt! S danach-föteli

    Roadtrip / Wätter ussitze

    19 Disember 2025, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Leider het s Wätter im Tongariro Nationalpark grad umgschlage womer in Taumarunui acho si. Eigentlich wär dr viertägig "around the mountain trail" plant gsi, aber wäge schnee, wind und näbel hei alli drvo abgrote. Au mit chürzere toure hämer bitz päch gha (usbuechti hütte und nid fahrendi shuttles).

    Spontan hämer denn gluegt wome idr nöchi chönt es auto miete und i welere richtig s wätter besser isch. Mir si denn uf Taupo autogstöpplet und dört s auto go abhole und richtig oste losgfahre. As uf dr linke site fahre hämer eus scho bitz müese gwöhne! Aber es isch erstuunlich guet und schnäll gange.

    Die ersti nacht hämer im auto ufeme freedom camping adr küste usserhalb no napier übernachtet. Eigentlich hätme dört nume mitem camper dörfte übernachte. Es het eus aber öper gseit, dass d security öpe am 9i chunt. Wäge däm hämer denn zum znacht e chlises fährtli gmacht und si denn öpe am halb 10i widr zrug gsi.

    Hawkes Bay isch e wii region und me cha super go wineries psueche und die verschidene wii probiere. Mir si denn am nöchste tag ines hotel und hei denn dört idr nöchi chöne d 'te mata' und d 'black barn' winery go psueche.

    Truurigerwis hani mini tolle wanderstöck im räge am timber trail ändi ligge lo. Jetz miteme auto usgrüstet hämer d hoffnig gha dasmerse widr finge. Dr dritti tag isch denn e tag mit vill autofahre gsi und leider ohni glück bezüglech de stöck 😔. Drfür hämer zobe e unterkunft mit whirpool gfunge und hei eus entschide am nöchste tag e falschirmsprung in Taupo z mache!

    Miteme knappe programm simer denn uf Taupo gfahre und hei s auto rächzitig abgä. Schlag uf schlag ischs gange, und 'Taupo Tandem Skydiving' het eus bi dr Jugi abgholt. Vo 15'000 feet (ca. 4.5 km) simer usem flugzüg gumpt, hei öpe 1 min freie fall gha bevor denn dr fallschirm ufgange isch. Vor 16 johr bini genau am gliche ort s erste mol go skydive. Jetz bini bitz weniger nervös gsi und ha dr frei fall tatsächlich mitbecho und ha d ussicht ufe Tongariro Nationalpark und ufe riisig Lake Taupo chöne gniesse. Aber drfür hani realisiert wie schnäll me gheit und bi froh gsi het dr jumpmaster alles im griff gha!

    ----------

    Unfortunately, the weather in Tongariro National Park changed just as we arrived in Taumarunui. We had originally planned to do the four-day Around the Mountain Track, but because of snow, strong winds, and fog, everyone advised against it. Even shorter hikes didn’t work out for us — huts were fully booked and shuttles weren’t running.

    So we made a spontaneous decision to look for a place nearby where we could rent a car and head toward better weather. We hitchhiked to Taupō, picked up a car there, and set off toward the east. Driving on the left took a bit of getting used to at first — but it was surprisingly quick and easy to adapt.

    Our first night was spent sleeping in the car at a freedom camping spot along the coast just outside Napier. Technically, only campervans are allowed to stay there overnight. But someone told us that security usually shows up around 9 p.m., so we went for a short drive for dinner and only returned around 9:30.

    Hawke’s Bay is a wine region, and it’s perfect for visiting wineries and tasting different wines. The next day, we checked into a hotel and from there were able to visit Te Mata Estate and Black Barn Winery nearby.

    Sadly, I had left my beloved trekking poles behind in the rain at the end of the Timber Trail. Now that we had a car, we were hopeful we might be able to track them down. The third day turned into a long day of driving — unfortunately without any luck finding the poles 😔. As a consolation, we found accommodation with a hot tub that evening and decided to go skydiving in Taupō the next day!

    With a tight schedule, we drove back to Taupō and returned the car just in time. Everything happened quickly after that — Taupō Tandem Skydiving picked us up at the hostel. From 15,000 feet (about 4.5 km), we jumped out of the plane and had around one minute of free fall before the parachute opened. Sixteen years ago, I did my very first skydive in this exact same place. This time, I was a bit less nervous and actually managed to fully experience the free fall and enjoy the view over Tongariro National Park and the vast Lake Taupō. That said, I also realized just how fast you fall — and I was very glad the jumpmaster had everything under control!    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1Chochend heissi quelle
    1Waikite Hot Pools3Bim autostöpple1Ussicht Mount Pureora1Bog Inn Hut1@Niggi: was isch ächt das für eis?Ussicht vo dr Timber LodgeTimber LodgeHistoric Camp No 10Do simer go badeAlte isebahn tunnel1

    Section 3: Pureora Forest / Timber Trail

    13 Disember 2025, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    S wandere goht witer! Die nöchsti section isch dure Pureora Forest gange. D Pureora Range isch durch d überlappig vo de tektonische platte entstande wo au rundum vili geothermali aktivitäte verursacht. Die gegend isch au bekannt für d holz industrie. Vill vo de wälder rund um d Pureora Range si abgholzt worde und wird jetz au no für das gnutzt, idäm si schneller wachsendi bäum apflanze. Zum glück heisi aber e grosse teil vom Pureora Urwald inzwüsche gschützt und e tolle trail vo 84km gmacht, wo mitem velo oder zfuess cha gmacht wärde. Dr wäg füert dure tiefst urwald mit villne sältene vögel und pflanze, übere Pureora Mountain und uf alte holzer isebahnwäg und hängebrugge.

    Vorem start vo dr section hämer aber die geothermale aktivitäte no welle usnütze und si bitz usserhalb vo Rotorua i heisse pools go bade. Do chunt s wasser chochend heiss us dr quelle und mues über verschideni mechanisme uf 35 - 42 grad abgchüelt wärde.

    Am nöchste tag simer vo de pools bis zum trail start auto gstöpplet. Das het au guet klappt. Nume adr einte stell hämer bitz überne stund müese warte.

    Dr timber trail hämer denn in 4 wandertäg ufteilt. Am erste tag isch dr längsti ufstiig gsi, inklusiv eme abstächer ufe Mount Pureora gipfel. Übernachtet hämer denn bi dr hütte. Will e paar ratte, opossums und vögel d hütte igno hei, hämer denn churzfristig uf s zält umdisponiert. Dr zweiti tag isch wunderschön dure wald und über die zwei längste hängebrugge vom trail. Wie s 'Café am Rande der Welt' isch nachem zweite Tag d Timber Lodge uftaucht. Schnäll hämer eus für die übernachtigsvariante (mit heisser duschi, feinem znacht und eme richtige bett) statt em zält entschide. Nacheme guete schlof hämer am nöchste tag die längsti etappi vo 26km in agriff gno. Die nöchsti nacht hämer im 'historic camp no. 11" übernachtet. Das isch früener e chlises settlement gsi, wosi s holz uf ufe zug verlade hei. Hüt hets e grass fäld zum s zält ufstelle, es plumsklo, es dach und e bänkli. Am letschte wandertag hetme scho gmerkt, dass d zivilisation nöcher chunt. Es isch witer gange uf dr alte bahnstrecki und über witeri brugge und e alte tunnel. Nach mehrerne wuche heissem, sunnigem wätter, het a däm spötere nomitag denn s wätter umgschlage und es het afo rägne. Pflotschnass simer denn am ändi vom timber trail acho und hei festgstellt dases i däm ort schwirig wird zum witer cho. Durchnässt und chalt het eus aber denn öper miteme auto, wo mitleid gha het mit eus, uf Taumarunui gfahre. Dört het eus es motelzimmer mit heisser duschi erwartet.

    -----------

    The hiking continues! The next section took us through the Pureora Forest. The Pureora Range was formed by the overlap of tectonic plates, which also causes the many geothermal activities in the region. The area is also known for its timber industry. Large parts of the forests around the Pureora Range were logged and are still used for forestry today, mainly with fast-growing plantation trees. Luckily, a significant portion of the original Pureora Forest is now protected, and an impressive 84 km trail has been created that can be done on foot or by bike. The trail leads through deep native forest with many rare birds and plants, over Mount Pureora, and along old logging railway lines and suspension bridges.

    Before starting the section, we wanted to take advantage of the geothermal activity and went for a soak in some hot pools just outside Rotorua. The water comes out of the ground boiling hot and is cooled down to around 35–42°C through various mechanisms before you can bathe in it.

    The next day, we hitchhiked from the pools to the trailhead, which worked out well overall — we only had to wait a bit over an hour at one spot.

    We split the Timber Trail into four hiking days. The first day included the longest ascent, with a side trip up to the summit of Mount Pureora. We stayed near a hut that night, but since several rats, possums, and birds had taken over the hut, we decided at short notice to sleep in our tent instead. The second day was a beautiful walk through the forest and across the two longest suspension bridges on the trail. Like something straight out of The Café at the End of the World, the Timber Trail Lodge appeared at the end of the second day. It didn’t take long to choose the overnight option with a hot shower, a delicious dinner, and a real bed instead of camping.

    After a good night’s sleep, we tackled the longest stage the next day — 26 km. That night, we stayed at Historic Camp No. 11, which used to be a small settlement where timber was loaded onto trains. Today, it offers a grassy area for pitching tents, a long-drop toilet, a shelter, and a bench. On the final day, it was already noticeable that civilization was getting closer. The trail continued along the old railway line, crossing more bridges and passing through an old tunnel. After weeks of hot, sunny weather, the conditions changed that afternoon and it started raining. Completely soaked, we reached the end of the Timber Trail and quickly realized that getting onward transport from there would be tricky. Cold and wet, we were lucky enough that a kind driver took pity on us and drove us to Taumarunui, where a motel room with a hot shower was waiting for us.    Baca lagi

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  • Lia FlückTe Araroa - New ZealandPengembara
    1

    Fründschaft schliesse mit Auckland

    9 Disember 2025, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I ha öpe 1 1/2 täg widr zrug in Auckland gha bis dr Leon acho isch. Ufe erste Blick ischmer Auckland nid die sympathisti stadt gsi vo neuseeland. Jetz hani aber zit gha zum no bitz anderi site z entdecke. Es isch eigentlich e rächt villsittigi stadt mit schöne buchte und stränd, hippe quartier mit härzige cafis zum brunche und schöne pärk.

    I ha denn entschide e strand tag zmache am Mission Bay strand und s gmüetlich znä. Dr räscht vo dr zit hani in kafis und restis verbrocht und ha z fuess d stadt erkundet. Usserdäm bechunt me d wiehnachtszit idr stadt natürlich bitz mehr mit über wie idr wildnis. I ha au per zuefall e crazy wiehnachtsstross entdeckt, wo jedes huus mit lämpli und andere themes dekoriert gsi isch.

    Inzwüsche isch dr Leon guet acho, isch dr jetlag am bekämpfe und sich a summer am aklimatisiere.

    --------

    I had about a day and a half back in Auckland before Leon arrived. At first glance, Auckland wasn’t exactly the most charming city in New Zealand. But with a bit more time, I got to discover some other sides of it. It’s actually quite a diverse city, with beautiful bays and beaches, trendy neighbourhoods full of cute brunch cafés, and lovely parks.

    I decided to spend a beach day at Mission Bay and take things easy. The rest of the time I wandered through the city on foot, relaxing in cafés and restaurants. And of course, you notice the Christmas season much more in the city than out in the wild. I even stumbled upon a crazy Christmas street where every house was decorated with lights and different themed displays.

    In the meantime, Leon has arrived safely, is fighting off the jet lag, and is getting used to the summer temperatures.    Baca lagi

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