Our Big Neighbour, Indonesia

Australians don't know enough about Indonesia. I certainly don't. So when our Indonesian/ Australian friend Budi said he was doing research in Makassar, I jumped at the chance to go. I also plan to see Bali with my sister Carol who often goes there. Read more

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Day 13
Wednesday, March 27, 2024 at 8:25 PM
☁️ 29 °C
Altitude: 16 m
Indonesia Ngurah Rai International Airport -8.742589, 115.1666458°44’33” S 115°9’60” E
Goodbye, I've now been to Bali too!
March 27, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Redgum lyrics

Qantas flight 20, Denpasar, meals and accom', rent-a-car
I've been to Bali, I've been to Bali too

Took a two week course at a suntan clinic
So lying round legian and I wouldn't look anaemic
And you can't impress me, 'cause I've been to Bali too

Got a ride out to Kuta in the back of a truck
Cost me twenty dollars and it wasn't worth a buck
Hustled to a losman down Poppies Lane
By a Javanese guy in a tropical rainstorm
Lock up your daughters, I've been to Bali too

Life is tragic hanging out at Kuta
If you haven't got a car, a bike or a scooter
Show me the bike shop, I've been to Bali too

Got myself a Honda, had to get away
No brakes, bald tyres, five thousand rupes a day
I've been to Bali too.

Well I don't ride a bike much home in Australia
As a motorcycle hero guess I'm a failure
Bemos to the left, trucks to the right
The Honda was a wreck but I was alright
Hello mecurochrome, I've been to Bali too

Wired home for money, short of cash
A dose of Bali belly and a tropical rash
Daddy came through - American Express
Bali t-shirts, magic mushrooms, Redgum bootlegs
I've been to Bali too

Took my bag and mozzie coils to Peliatan
It's there were my Bali trip really began
Been there, done that, I've been to Bali too

Tourists from Holland, Britain and France
Late night puppet shows, leg on dance
Want to see my slides, I've been to Bali too

Well I wandered off to Ubud, just a little up the track
One week there didn't want to come back
Listening to Gamelon playing guitar
Janteris, tacos, Hotel Monara, two month visa
I've been to Bali too.Read more
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Day 14
Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 11:35 AM
☁️ 32 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Indonesia Parangtambung -5.185081, 119.4277225°11’6” S 119°25’40” E
I'm just here for the Trepang
March 28, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C
I'm visiting Makassar because my friend Budi is working here, supporting students to research the Makassin sailors who went to Arnhem land for trepang (sea cucumber).
There will be a symposium in September.Read more
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Day 14
Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 5:05 PM
☁️ 28 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Indonesia Teluk Losari -5.143906, 119.4070065°8’38” S 119°24’25” E
Phinisi Harbour cruise
March 28, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
After the session with the students Budi organized for me and his coworker, Yoyo to go on a sunset harbour cruise on a traditional Makassin sailing boat, a Phinisi.
Because it's Ramadan I was the only one who could eat before sunset and they had an Imam giving a sermon instead of pop music.
The Indonesians were very polite to me, the bule (foreigner). They gave me a seat and then ran away completely, leaving us alone. After dinner they relaxed and partied with music and sparklers and included us.Read more
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Day 15
Friday, March 29, 2024 at 11:14 AM
⛅ 29 °C
Altitude: 9 m
Indonesia Fort Rotterdam -5.133644, 119.405955°8’1” S 119°24’21” E
Not a tourist mecca
March 29, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
You can see that the government had put some effort to make Makassar a tourist destination. However, the tourist sites are now very rundown if not closed completely. Fort Rotterdam was the centre of Dutch authority over Sulawesi. But now it needs a revamp. Particularly, some signage and maps in different languages.
Then I went to Balla Lompoa Museum, which was the palace of the 9th Raja , Sultan Hasanuddin who " lost " the war to the Dutch. It was supposed to hold the history of the Bugis Raja Gowa kingdom. It looked like a great building. But, again it was rundown and completely closed. Shame.
Budi would like to see a maritime museum to celebrate their amazing maritime history.Read more
I had similar thoughts when I was in Java, a lot of these cities would be really interesting for tourists with a bit of investment. I remember in Semarang they had all these historic Dutch buildings and canals, a bit like a mini Amsterdam, but there weren’t any real museums or signage and a number of the buildings were quite run down. [Evan]
3/31/24Reply
TravelerIndonesia relies on Bali for tourist dollars but the numbers are killing the place. If they put a bit of effort in improving other places it would potentially take the pressure off Bali and spread the dollars around.
4/1/24Reply
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Day 16
Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 8:17 AM
☁️ 27 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Indonesia Pulau Kudingarenglompo -5.146925, 119.2704645°8’49” S 119°16’14” E
The Search for Trepang
March 30, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
Budi and some students rented a boat to visit offshore islands to find any remaining Trepang fishermen. I just tagged along.
The first island was very small and we were constantly being beeped by kids on electric bikes. They found a shack to rent and old fishermen but not Trepang.Read more
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Day 16
Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 10:43 AM
☁️ 28 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Indonesia Pulau Bara Lompo -5.049481, 119.3304725°2’58” S 119°19’50” E
Island 2: The Search for Trepang
March 30, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
The second island was bigger with a large mosque and cemetery where the big trees were allowed to grow. We found a large tamarind tree. There are also tamarind trees in Arnhemland which were planted by Makassin sailors.
Then we saw these fig trees growing on top of a mausoleum. Amazing.
Here the roads are bigger and kids are zoomed around on small trucks.Read more
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Day 16
Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 11:08 AM
☁️ 28 °C
Altitude: 9 m
Indonesia Pulau Bara Lompo -5.046642, 119.3277945°2’48” S 119°19’40” E
The Holy Grail
March 30, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
Budi talked to some fishermen and suddenly one jumped up and said to follow.
There they were. Trepang drying in the sun. This was what the fuss is all about. Ugly things really.
Then an older guy started telling stories of the olden days, diving for Trepang. How men would burst their eardrums diving too deep or ruin their knees from decompression sickness. Especially if they were still drunk when diving.
Mission accomplished we headed back to get out of the scorching sun. Even the locals complained. The coolest spot was under the shade at the jetty. We passed many types of ships on the way.Read more
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Day 16
Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 9:00 PM
☁️ 29 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Indonesia Ujung Pandang -5.128714, 119.4082785°7’43” S 119°24’30” E
Surviving Ramadan
March 30, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Ramadan didn't really affect me in Bali as it is mostly Hindu. But Makassar is very different. All cafes are closed in the morning until 1pm. So even though the breakfast at my hotel is hopeless, there is no alternative. So I needed to stock up on munchies to keep me going. Especially for the boat trip.
The next problem is that most Indonesian munchies are so full of sugar, wheat and msg. And that's just the chips, corn chips and peanuts. The best, most natural food is in the souvenir shops. I've got so desperate Original Pringles are one if the best options.
After 1pm the cafes are allowed to open but must have shutters or blinds so people can't see inside. I don't know if it is to stop people being tempted or to hide the ones who are.
Then about 5pm or so, people arrive at cafes and order their food and wait for the call that the sun had set and they can eat.
So Budi and I organize to have dinner after 7 to avoid the rush.
Beautiful, fresh, grilled fish and seafood or last night we went to Chinatown.Read more
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Day 18
Monday, April 1, 2024 at 10:21 AM
☁️ 29 °C
Altitude: 9 m
Indonesia Lantang -4.9328, 119.5972224°55’58” S 119°35’50” E
Boat trip going back in time
April 1, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Budi and Fikri (the project organiser) hired a car to take us up to Rammang Rammang, a region in the Bantimurung- Bulusaraung National Park.
This area can only be accessed by small boats. This keeps tourist numbers down and reduces the impact on the region. It felt like going back in time to when river travel was the only way to get places. There are still villages within the park with houses dotted along the river bank.Read more
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Day 18
Monday, April 1, 2024 at 10:54 AM
☁️ 29 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Indonesia Bulu Mabaleang -4.916008, 119.6114974°54’58” S 119°36’41” E
Karst mountains
April 1, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
What's so special about Rammang Rammang is that it is the 2nd largest Karst region in the world. So there are these amazing mountains surrounding the village. It was originally a lake at the base of the mountains but alluvial rocks filled it in so it became excellent rice paddies.Read more
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Day 18
Monday, April 1, 2024 at 2:21 PM
☁️ 31 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Indonesia Salo Sinruala -5.138231, 119.4504645°8’18” S 119°27’2” E
One extreme to another
April 1, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
After going back in time at Rammang Rammang, what should you do?
Go to a super mall of course.
This one is more environmental, open to the air, with green walls and waterfalls.
This uses less aircon and less energy. It was full of all the super expensive shops.
I had a great Nasi Lemak by myself because it wasn't sunset yet.Read more
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Day 19
Tuesday, April 2, 2024 at 6:45 PM
☁️ 28 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Indonesia Tanjung Pandan -5.139294, 119.4060645°8’21” S 119°24’22” E
Iftar meal, Ramadan at night
April 2, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
Iftar is the meal Muslims can have after sunset during Ramadan. And what a sunset tonight. Very spectacular. Should have done a timelapse video but I didn't expect it.
Vendors set up chairs and tables along the waterfront ready for the meal. I had a great Cap Cay (vegetable stew).
Then I had the local specialty dessert, Pisang Epe (Fried banana in a sea of treacle) while being entertained by local troubadours.Read more
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Day 20
Wednesday, April 3, 2024 at 8:48 AM
☁️ 28 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Indonesia Cinranae -5.063231, 119.5265615°3’48” S 119°31’36” E
Habibie Love
April 3, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
I found Ikhsan, a driver and tour guide to take me out of Makassar, along the coast and up the mountains to Tana Toraja (land of the Toraja people).
First stop was the port of Pare-Pare, the birthplace of ex President B J Habibie. They love him and his wife Ainun.
Habibie is particularly celebrated as the only President who didn't come from Java. He was not elected but was vice president when Suharto was forced to resign.
After the loss of East Timor he pushed through decentralisation of power to reduce the possibility of other regions wanting independence.
In Pare-Pare there is also s memorial to the 40,000 killed during the War of Independence.Read more
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Day 20
Wednesday, April 3, 2024 at 2:34 PM
🌩️ 29 °C
Altitude: 194 m
Indonesia Buttu Maladewe -3.534928, 119.7723393°32’6” S 119°46’20” E
The Erotic Mountain
April 3, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌩️ 29 °C
Next stop is Gunung Nona, The Erotic Mountain.
I'm surprised at such a conservative culture celebrating women's private parts. Anyway the views are amazing in all directions as we go up into the mountains.Read more
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Day 20
Wednesday, April 3, 2024 at 4:25 PM
☁️ 26 °C
Altitude: 833 m
Indonesia Salu Barani -3.280983, 119.8489063°16’52” S 119°50’56” E
Tojara Tongkanon houses
April 3, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
The first thing you notice in Tana Tojara are the amazing traditional tongkanons (chieftain's houses) with their upturned roofs. The tradition tells the story of how their ancestors paddled up the river and then built houses with their boats as roofs.
Water buffalo horns and jaws adorn the front and sides of the buildings to show the wealth of the owner. The more and larger the horns the more wealth.
The Toraja also build rice barns in the same style. The more barns also showing more wealth and status.Read more
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Day 21
Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 9:10 AM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 814 m
Indonesia Salu Bulubulu -3.041353, 119.8774423°2’29” S 119°52’39” E
The Living Dead
April 4, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
The Tojara have very different funeral rites. They bury their dead in caves or tombs that are chiselled out of rock faces. Or in coffins hanging on the rock face.
Then the wealthy make Tau-Taus (models of the dead person) to put in front of the grave. The even wealthier build miniature tongkanons to display the body before it is buried.
But if a child dies before it gets any teeth then a hole is cut into a sacred tree and the body placed inside the hole and it is sewn back up.Read more
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Day 21
Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 10:15 AM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 1,002 m
Indonesia Buntu Burake -3.095161, 119.8663363°5’43” S 119°51’59” E
Jesus Christ, Almighty!
April 4, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
In Indonesia everyone needs to identify which of the 6 major religions they belong to. Animism or atheism are not options. Most Toraja chose Christianity as a reaction against possibly being forced to be Muslim by the Indonesian Islamic Army rebellion in Sulawesi in the 1950s. But their actual beliefs are more animist. This has now been officially recognized as Aluk To Dolo (Way of the ancestors) as a sect of Christianity.
Anyway, there's a giant Jesus on the hill overlooking Toraja, with great views and many churches around Toraja.Read more
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Day 22
Friday, April 5, 2024 at 9:07 AM
☁️ 25 °C
Altitude: 830 m
Indonesia Batu Tongko -2.920347, 119.9205252°55’13” S 119°55’14” E
Indonesia's Stonehenge
April 5, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Ancient Toraja didn't place Tau-Taus to commemorate the dead. Instead they embedded menhirs or standing stones in the ground. At Kalimbuang Bori there are 102 menhirs placed in circles representing important people who have died. Because of the presence of this ancient stone, the Kalimbuang site is said to be Toraja's Stonehenge. It's actually more like standing stone circles across the UK and Europe. Stonehenge is much more sophisticated than this.
The Toraja still use this site for funeral ceremonies.
After seeing this we drove down the mountains with more spectacular views to the east coast and to Sengkang.Read more
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Day 22
Friday, April 5, 2024 at 4:40 PM
☁️ 32 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Indonesia Lake Tempe -4.118567, 119.9673084°7’7” S 119°58’2” E
Floating fishing village
April 5, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C
In Cambodia I went to a floating fishing village on Tonle Sap (lake) which had lots of houses and its own school and shops. This village on Lake Tempe was not anywhere near that. There were only 5 houses. Apparently there used to be about 100 houses here but the lake has been overfished and many people have left to find a better way of living. The lake has also been clogged up with water hyacinth weeds which can double nearly every day so the floating village can get overwhelmed by them. A new route has to be found nearly every day.
But the boat trip out along the river and onto the lake was great. And lots of birds: terns, herons, egrets, swamphens.
So it was all worth it.Read more
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Day 23
Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 10:42 AM
⛅ 31 °C
Altitude: 157 m
Indonesia Bulu Padangpulaweng -4.152636, 119.7888584°9’9” S 119°47’20” E
A tale of 2 hot springs
April 6, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
In Bali, Carol and I went to hot springs at Lake Batur which were very clean, well maintained, busy and expensive. These hot springs at Hakata Lejja were the complete opposite but beautiful in their own way. The tiles were cracked and missing. The footpaths were rough and broken. Only 1 pool had water. But they were set in the best rainforest I'd seen in Sulawesi.
And I was the only one there.
You could even see the actual springs with the hot water coming out. It was very pleasant.
The road getting there was abysmal but you could see there was some work being done to improve it. There were also some new pools being built so I'm sure it will one day be a big tourist siteRead more
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Day 23
Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 1:55 PM
⛅ 30 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Indonesia Panincong -4.512566, 119.7204394°30’45” S 119°43’14” E
1
Ain't no mountain high enough
April 6, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
After leaving the hot springs we had to take the road back over the mountains to Barru on the west down to Makassar. Completely dreadful road but great scenery.
Yes amazing scenery [Rhonda]
4/8/24Reply
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Day 23
Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 6:32 PM
☁️ 29 °C
Altitude: 5 m
Indonesia Salo Rappokalling -5.110356, 119.442855°6’37” S 119°26’34” E
Karaoke and Catfish
April 6, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
On our drive back from Toraja I asked Ikhsan about what music he liked. He said he had played in a band that played 90s music, Greenday, Blink 182 etc. I said I was a child of the 70s. He only knew Stairway to Heaven and Space Oddity from movies. So I played him some more Led Zeppelin and David Bowie. Then Brian Eno, Jethro Tull, Roxy Music. I got him to recommend some Indonesian music. He said Superman is Dead and DEWA19. Also Bento an old song satirizing Suharto.
Good musical sharing.
So then Ikhsan invited me to his friend's cafe to join in a jam session to sing 90s songs. Budi and Mira came too. It was good fun. Luckily they didn't get me to sing. The young woman had a great voice and did the singing. She sang some Indonesian songs too. At least Mira knew the songs.
The cafe also had a food stall out the front and I had very fried catfish. Never had catfish before. I thought it would have a muddy taste but I actually liked it.Read more
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Day 24
Sunday, April 7, 2024 at 7:28 PM
☁️ 28 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Indonesia Ujung Pandang -5.130925, 119.4081195°7’51” S 119°24’29” E
Friendly rivals
April 7, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
Like Australia and New Zealand, Indonesia and Malaysia are friendly rivals. They argue over things like who invented Beef Rendang and who has the best football team.
They have the similar cultural heritage and language but were colonised by different empires.
Sukarno wanted to include the Malaysian states into Indonesia, particularly Sabah and Sarawak. (As well as Brunei) But the British and UN opposed that. Even though Indonesia is a much larger country and has a larger economy, Malaysians are wealthier per capita, mostly through Malaysia's oil wealth. Many Indonesians work in Malaysia as house maids
So the Indonesians can be jealous and it sometimes spills over into angerRead more
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Day 25
Monday, April 8, 2024 at 12:53 PM
☁️ 31 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Indonesia Teluk Losari -5.1414, 119.4080935°8’29” S 119°24’29” E
Foreigners Going Native
April 8, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
While I've been in Indonesia I've been reading this great book by Elizabeth Pisani, Indonesia Etc, about her travels in Indonesia. She was a journalist there for 3 years then ran an Aids Education program. So is fluent in Indonesian and had traveled to many different islands.
On a visit to Jakarta she started telling a local middle class Jakarta woman about the joys of the life of a fisherman in Sangihe, a small island when she saw the woman's eyes glaze over. She then realized she was " a foreigner gone native" and shut up.
I haven't done that yet but I get strange looks when I don't want a taxi or to stay in posh hotels.
Her book is worth a read.Read more
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Day 25
Monday, April 8, 2024 at 6:15 PM
☁️ 29 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Indonesia Ujung Pandang -5.128814, 119.41025°7’44” S 119°24’37” E
Ramadan discipline
April 8, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
The food here is really good. Especially if you like seafood. Tonight Budi organized a dinner for the university staff he is working with and their families. Budi and Fikri chose the fish and seafood from the fridge which was then grilled and served. As it is still Ramadan the Muslims couldn't eat till sundown even though the food and drink was sitting there in front of them. I could eat but I wanted to respect them. So I waited too, even though I was hungry. I had eaten during the day so I probably wasn't as hungry as they were. But they were unfazed and waited patiently. I must admit I was impressed with their self discipline.
When the time came, we all tucked in and enjoyed it enormously.Read more
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