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    A special day in Sardinia

    12. juli 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The huge motor yacht is dragging towards us! What will we do? Where will we go? Will we survive?

    This blog is written by Colm.

    We motor to a nice anchorage near Alghero but have to re-anchor soon after because a red motor-yacht nearly drags down on top of us. After that we have a nice dinner and drift off to sleep.
    In the morning we motor-sail north up the coast. We travel through a shallow passage between two islands at a top of Sardina to get to the beautiful anchorage of Paseo Della Pelosa.
    Here I learn how to dive the 1.3 metres off the side of Regal. We all have great fun diving down to the sandy seabed catching hold of the anchor and looking at flounder flat-fish. Ronan and I SUP into the local shop to get some bread and vegetables. Back on the paddleboard, Dad and I go on a little adventure around the area and enjoy the view of the two old towers on the shoreline.
    We have a fabulous party to celebrate a special day, it is one full year since Régal sailed out of Cork harbour. We have lots of crisps, nuts and drinks and I have a Fanta. Ronan cooks a delicious barbecue for dinner and we all make a speech.

    The next day we find out that a wind is coming which will make this anchorage untenable. We head for an island called Asinara where there will be better protection from the strong northeasterly wind.
    On the journey the sea is speckled with dan-buoys. We arrive in the afternoon, pick up a mooring bouy and have some tea and biscuits. We have plans to go into the port but they are all blown away by the strong wind. With gusts up to 30 knots it is impossible to launch the dinghy.
    The next day when the gusts are gone Ronan , Margaret and I go ashore for a walk. Looking down at water, we see some seabream munching on a ray carcass. After the walk we weigh anchor and head back to Paseo Della Pelosa.
    On one of the four days here ,we all swim the seven hundred metres to the shore while I have the dinghy harnessed to me. This is my new strength and conditioning routine. We have a coffee , do some shopping and swim back, this time mom rows the dinghy - Lee swim here we come!
    Over the next few days we enjoy the sunshine and clear waters in this lovely spot.
    Les mer

  • Leaving Menorca at DawnTime to put a reef inAll we see on night watchRaising the Italian courtesy flagDate night

    33 hours to Sardinia

    5. juli 2022, Italia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    It's a quiet, grey morning as we leave the sleeping anchorage of Port D'addaia, for a 190 n.m. (350km) journey to Sardinia.
    It seems like a deeper step into the Mediterranean, further away from Spain and a coastline we have grown somewhat familiar with.
    This will be our first overnight passage since we arrived into Cartagena last October.
    As always on such a passage, there's a little nervous tension in the air, or maybe it's just in my head.
    Last night I fitted our lifelines, strong straps which run down the the length of the deck so you can clip on your safety harness if needed on deck in foul weather, or at night, when there might be nobody else up to raise the alarm should you go over the side.
    It's been a while since I last fitted these and they certainly remind me we're going offshore.
    In the last week we discovered some dirty diesel in our tank, and even though we've changed the filters and extracted 25 litres from the bottom of the tank, there's still a little nagging doubt about the engine, which I know we will need on this trip.
    I'm also still recovering from a heavy bout of Covid which left me feeling washed out.
    We could be waiting to be ready for ever, sometimes you need to go. Vamanos!
    The forecast is for the strongest wind and swell to come in the first 12 hours of the trip, on our beam, before calming overnight and helping by moving behind us and helping our progress. That's as good as as it gets.
    And so it proves, within 6 hours we are reduced to motor sailing with a double reefed mainsail, to minimise the roll from the northerly swell.
    Regal had been carrying her headsail OK, but was just heeled over too much for comfort, so we decided to furl that instead, even at a slight loss of speed. Colm feels the most seasick but thankfully he doesn't get sick.
    By dinner time the wind and seas have calmed somewhat and the night ahead seems like it will be OK.
    Colm rallies enough to eat a full meal and watch an episode on his ipad so all seems pretty good.
    I take the first watch and thankfully the time passes reasonably quickly, with just enough shipping to keep you alert but nothing coming too close. At 23.00 we pass into Italian waters so it's ciao all round when Ruby visits to examine the stars, using an app to help identify the various constellations. At midnight Margaret comes on watch and I gladly turn in.
    Shortly into my next watch, at around 4.15
    I am sitting on the compaionway steps when I hear a loud thump, we have hit something.
    Not what you want to hear.
    I rush up into the cockpit and am just in time to hear something splashing in our wake. I figure we must have hit a large fish like a sunfish which we have often seen lounging on the surface.
    That excitement helps to wake me up for my watch!
    The Eastern sky ahead soon starts lightening and I next get a visit from Colm, full of beans after a night's sleep. He's soon joined by his sister and I take advantage of their presence to lie down in the cockpit and grab a quick nap.
    Not long after we see the mountains of Sardinia rising ahead. Time to hoist our shiny new Italian courtesy flag. A few hours later we are passing under high cliffs and into a large sheltered bay, where we drop anchor and relax for the next two nights.
    Then it's a short trip across the bay to the historic city of Alghero, for some clean diesel, drinking water and a night out.
    Arrivederci!
    Les mer

  • Drake's pool?
    Fish market in MahonHello Carrie!Mahon, regatta dayThe long hot walk to Decathlon- it's always worth itClose quartersWashing off more Calima dustSome visitors

    Never a Dull Moment

    30. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We are just dropping anchor in Addaia when I hear someone shout ‘Mags’ from another boat. It takes me a while to figure it out but then I have it - It’s Carrie my sister Clare’s friend. I had no idea she would be in Menorca although I know she sails here from time to time. They are leaving shortly so I swim over to say a quick hello. Perfect serendipity- had we travelled here half an hour later we would have crossed paths at sea without recognition.

    Addaia is a long narrow lagoon so it feels like a river, an Irish river, Drake’s pool to be exact. The water is flat calm while there is a swell at sea. This is the perfect spot to be with strong northerly wind forecast tomorrow and then two days of strong southerly coming after that. We go ashore to the Restaurant at the top of the hill and discover the owner is Corkonian. She rarely hears a Cork accent in Addaia but tonight there are plenty as her sister is here too and we all have a gossip.

    When the strong northerly wind blows, we see white water crashing over the rocks at the entrance to the channel but in here there is just a ripple. We are safe as houses in this hurricane hole and very comfortable too when the wind turns and starts to blow from the south.
    Ronan and Colm are ashore with a long list of mundane ‘to do’s’ when I instruct Ruby to ring Ronan to get them home quickly. I am at our bow watching yacht ‘Bruce’ slowly but steadily sliding backwards. She is dragging anchor and nobody is on board. Our neighbours are shouting and blowing horns but what can be done? We watch as Bruce’s heavy hull drifts determinedly towards our neighbour. A slight shift of wind saves him but now Bruce slowly takes aim at us. Ruby starts Regal’s engine and I get fenders ready at the bow. A french couple from a nearby yacht speed over on their dinghy and climb aboard Bruce. Miraculously they find a key and manage to get her engine started. Ronan and Colm arrive back to see Bruce under control and moving away. When its owners return a few hours later she is anchored in a completely different spot.
    It is decided that while we are here we won’t ever leave Régal alone for too long. Two days later Ruby and I stay on board while Colm and Ronan go on a day trip. They go to Mahon the capital, for a heady mix of sight-seeing and provisioning. They arrive back later with gallons of milk, beer and fizzy water. While we are unloading the cargo our neighbour, yacht ‘Poker’, looks nearer than usual. Monsieur Poker is at his bow watching our stern moving closer… this time Régal is dragging anchor. We hop over the shopping, start the engine, pull up the anchor and find another spot. Our fingers are crossed that we will hold firm here over the coming windy days.
    There is a repeating weather pattern of strong wind gusting in the high 20s followed by two or three days of less wind. The prospect of anchoring in one of Menorca’s beauty spots isn’t appealing at the moment as many are open to this wind and swell. For now our newly set anchor has dug in nicely and we are happy with this new view in Addaya.
    While Ruby and I are on our day trip to Mahon, our Scottish friends on Aphrodite come into the Lagoon and anchor nearby. Over the coming days the two boats swing in rhythm with each other and young Hammish waves to us as he goes forward and backwards in his little cockpit swing.
    We don’t see him anymore once a Frenchman wedges his boat between us. We tell him that his boat is a little close and he tells us to relax. He’s probably right, we just aren’t used to these busy Mediterranean anchorages. The next morning as I am taking photos to capture how hilariously close we are, the french skipper emerges in his pyjamas to have a look about. As the boats swing gently to the wind we both realise that on the very next swing his bow will hit our stern. He runs forward and quickly lets out more chain. As his bow closes in on our stern I reach out and push it off before it makes contact. Now his stern is falling back towards Aphrodite so he has to immediately start up and up anchor. His sleepy crew mate takes the wheel and their shouting back and forth between bow and helm rouses the whole anchorage. We all look on as the two men in pyjamas zigzag around the anchorage. I smile into my morning coffee and give Hammish a wave.
    Ronan makes two unpleasant discoveries here in Addaya. On Saturday, while changing the engine filters, he finds dirt in the fuel. He spends a hot Sunday down below syphoning, filtering and cleaning with great help from Ruby. On Monday he has a sore throat and on Tuesday he is crook and the test confirms he has Covid. The rest of us feel fine, so while Ronan sleeps and coughs his way through the next three days we pull the boat apart and do a big spring clean. We are glad to be in this protected bay for this spell of isolation and not in an exposed anchorage yawing around in the swell.

    In the wee windy hours of Friday morning, there is more drama in pyjamas as two boats drag anchor. The first boat recovers and resets without too much fuss in difficult conditions. It’s dark and windy and there are a lot of boats here. Checking our anchor we are relieved all is well with Régal. We look around and see that many others are checking their anchors too. A new 55ft yacht who was anchored near us is no longer there. She has dragged and is now pinned between a yacht and its mooring. After some revving and manoeuvring they manage to get off but they have surely done damage. They move at speed up and down the anchorage -their stress levels high. She fails to re-anchor several times and as they bring her around to try again, the wind shifts and she hits into a motor cruiser. The Drama. I stay up and watch on until the shouting dies down, the engine revs drop and all around the anchorage flashlights go out. Never a dull moment.

    .
    Les mer

  • Colm making mosquito netsSewing some much needed mosquito netsView of Regal from Cala Vincenc MallorcaFishing off the coast of MallorcaLast view of Mallorca

    Naked and afraid: MENORCA

    17. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Written by Ruby ;]

    They are naked. We are afraid. The boat is surrounded on all sides. They are creeping closer. I lie awake at night and shiver, praying for an end to it all. Welcome. To. Menorca.

    [24 hours earlier]
    It is truly a beautiful day for sailing, so that’s exactly what we do, crossing over from Mallorca to Menorca. The boat happily sails along, and spirits are high. As the evening draws in, we pull into a bay on the northern coast, called Cala de Algaiarens. There are two sandy beaches and pine trees surround the bay. Many boats are at anchor here but there is enough space that the Cala still feels quiet.

    It is only the next day that the problem rears its head. Nudism. An onslaught of nudists; they are on the beach and swimming, they are sailing their boats and hosting their equally naked guests. I don’t know where to look.
    We spend four days here but never feel inspired to join in -we are prudes through and through.

    There’s great snorkelling around the rocks, so we spend lots of time there gazing at all the fish. We go to the beach on some of the evenings, when the heat of the day has subsided and the nudists are mainly dressed . On one of these occasions we meet our friends from Aphrodite, a boat we met way back in Ibiza.
    For most of our stay here, it’s windy, so we haven’t launched the paddle boards. We are beginning to understand why Menorca is called ‘The Windy Isle’. On our forth morning, the wind changes direction and everyone has clearly had the same idea. There is a mass exodus and we sail off in their midst.
    Les mer

  • A view you could never tire ofRonan's latest exercise craze - Dinghy towing

    30 / 30 / 30

    14. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    The air and water temperatures are 30 degrees plus, and a peaceful night at anchor suddenly gets very lively when a 30 knot land breeze kicks in.

    It's 30 degrees plus in the shade, and a lot hotter in the sun as Spain swelters in another heatwave (not looking for any sympathy, honest!). It's been like this for the last week and looks set to continue.
    One positive is that the water has become very warm and pleasant, so we're jumping in several times a day in an effort to cool down.
    We anchored in the lovely Cala Tuent, on Mallorcas mountainous northern coast. It's a quiet undeveloped spot, with high hills either side and within sight of Puig Major, Mallorcas highest peak at 1436m.
    Snorkeling is great in the clear water, and ashore we take a short walk around the fertile valley, up to a pretty restaurant with an amazing view out to sea.
    There are about 8 or 9 other yachts at anchor here tonight, all bobbing about in the calm conditions. Including Kit and Mariella on Tiger Lily, whom we met in Porto Cristo. Around 3am we are awoken by the sound of a building breeze. Soon it's gotten very noisy and the entire crew are awake. I go up on deck to check the anchor and see lights and activity on several other boats too. Everyone is awake and on alert. The wind keeps building and we are yawing from side to side in the gusts, getting a little too close to other boats for comfort.
    Suddenly there's a blast of hot air, like a giant furnace has been opened in front of us.
    Togs, towels and anything else not tied down are flying about the place and the SUPs are lifting off the deck, straining on their restraints. The dinghy is tied on astern but lifting a little and skitting across the water. I'm glad we don't have the outboard engine on it tonight, in case the dinghy is blown upside down.
    A nearby yacht nearby drags anchor, and drops again in a clearer spot. These manoeuvres become more fraught in the dark, when there is the added risk of driving over a mooring buoy and wrapping it around your propellor.
    The wind is now over 30 knots and very hot, especially considering its 3am.
    We're glad to be one of the outer boats in the anchorage, with the scope to put out more chain if necessary. Thankfully our 25kg Rocna is holding well, combined with the 10mm nylon snubber.
    After 30 minutes or so it starts to abate and we try to get back to sleep.
    The next day we discover that the same conditions hit nearby Port Soller.
    There seems to be some debate as to whether it was a katabatic wind, falling down from the nearby mountains, or else was a land breeze, caused by warm air cooling and rolling down the valley to the sea....these details aren't too important at the time!
    Les mer

  • Cool Calobra

    13. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A Colm and Co. Production

    We arrive in Calobra bay in the warm evening and are greeted with a spectacular view of two huge cliffs, separated by a tiny beach. There are lots of boats here anchored close to the beach but the water is deep . We drop ours in 16 metres which is 4 times deeper then our last anchorage.
    We have a nice dinner then hit the hay.

    In the morning we dinghy to the small beach which is actually the mouth of a river . The fresh water only flows out to sea after heavy rain. We put on our sandals and start our adventure into the ravine. First we walk through the cliffs in tunnels that are cooly lit. After that we walk along the riverbed between the cliffs, looking at fish and frogs in the remaining river water. Dad spots a goat in the bushes , he is big and brown. He sees more on the cliff but I can’t see them.
    Mom, Ruby and I climb over rocks to continue following the river up through the narrowing ravine while dad guards our precious bottle of water. We return to Régal just as the beach is filling up with people from tour buses.
    Mom and I go on a sup (stand up paddleboard) around the cliffs. We see some wrasse and lots of sea urchins. When we get back to the boat we go for a cool-down swim in the deep blue water.
    We up our Rocna anchor and skedaddle.
    Les mer

  • Cala Sant Vincenc
    Approaching Cala FigueraColm is Cala FigueraSwimming to the jumping steps

    Up and around the corner

    12. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The weather conditions are perfect to explore the north west coast of Mallorca and we continue to be blown away by its beauty. There are so many places to see so today we stop for lunch at Cala Figuera before moving on to Cala Sant Vicenc for the night.
    The current light wind we are experiencing makes it less daunting to sail close to the looming headlands and to anchor under the enormous hills and cliffs of Cala Figuera. It is a deep anchorage with the occasional rocky outcrop emerging from its depths. Looking up at the surrounding hills, we see numerous hair pin bends on the road down to the beach here - steely nerves required.
    I explore this spectacular bay on the paddle board while the other 3 dive in for a snorkel. At lunchtime they are brimming with enthusiasm for what lies beneath. I feel I have missed out so Colm kindly volunteers to be my tour guide and we hop in. Swimming over to a pinnacle shaped rock that comes up 10 metres for the seabed we see lots of different plant life and fish.
    There appears to be a jellyfish infestation around this coast today. They are small with brownish spots and are called ‘Mauve Stingers’. They aren’t an issue for us because we can see them clearly through our masks and just avoid them.
    Later this evening I am swimming ‘sans snorkel’ in Cala Sant Vincenc when I get a very stinging sting on my arm. We treat it with seawater and bread soda and after a while the stinging subsides and I am left with a 3 stranded welt.
    Incredibly the next morning all the jellyfish have disappeared. We make the most of the clear water and swim over to the rocky promontory that comes out from the holiday town. There are steps up from the water here that people jump and dive from. We climb up and pick a step that suits our individual level of bravery and jump into the turquoise water below. We interpret the goats’ bleating from across the water as wild applause.
    We are moving on again today as there is much more to see. The final task to undertake before leaving is to recover our stern anchor. In these mild conditions we take the lazy man’s approach. Ruby dives down to free the anchor from the sand and Ronan pulls the line from Regal’s stern. Half an hour later, after several tweaks and repeated attempts it is finally recovered. During our cool down swim we all agree that the lazy man’s way is never to be repeated.
    Les mer

  • Colm, Dinghy and view
    Ronan slaving over a hot stoveRuby Snorkelling and looking for sea cucumbersTaxi for shopping and laundry.

    Cala Pi

    10. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We have a wonderful few days at this idyllic anchorage near Pollenca. We spend lots of time in the turquoise water- swimming, snorkelling and supping. The surrounding hills are green and lush with the odd mansion peaking out from behind the trees. There are two beautiful white beaches ashore divided by a pristine dock for the big tourist boats that land here. Ronan occasionally go ashore on the pretext of bringing the rubbish to the bins but always stops in for a little something at the pier cafe.
    The highlight of our stay here is a visit from Ronan’s cousin Rose and her friend Eoin. By coincidence they are out here for a work event and have a few hours free to spend with us. It’s lovely to spend time with them and show them beautiful Cala Pi. After a swim we weigh anchor, put up the headsail and have a slow sail and a late lunch to the nearby Port de Pollenca. Here Rose and Eoin leave us and we do our shopping and laundry.
    Les mer

  • Enjoying the view from the shadeAnd at last she's upGoing home after dinner outOur young cormorant friend

    Catching up with Kennet

    6. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    On Saturday we move into Puerto de Alcudia which is a nice tourist town at the top of a beautiful long beach that stretches around the head of the bay. This anchorage has come highly recommended from our Danish friend Kennet who has been here for the last two weeks. We made a connection with Kennet over the winter in Cartagena when we discovered that we had the same boat. They are carbon copies except that Kennet’s has a red cockpit cover and and a TV and we have a blue cockpit cover and photos hanging in place of the telly.
    It is great to catch up with him and hear about his recent adventures as a skipper to paid guests. So far so good for his new business venture. He had been a baker for 20 years in Denmark and gave it up to go sailing.
    While we are catching up over coffee we are interrupted by a commotion on a neighbouring yacht. A bottle nose dolphin is swimming around their boat and diving underneath proceeds to pull at their anchor chain. It’s harmless curiosity and everyone is very excited about this close encounter. The skipper on board is the most excited and when the dolphin surfaces near his stern he jumps in, nearly landing right down on top of him. The dolphin must have got a fright because the next time we see him, he far away and he doesn’t return.
    A baby cormorant is our next close encounter. He takes up residence on our dinghy for a day. We swim nearby and he doesn’t budge, we pull the dinghy into the stern and he looks up at us. It is only when Ronan steps into the dinghy to go ashore that he jumps finally jumps off into water.

    Staying at anchor here for several days, we visit the old town which is a few kilometres further inland. This is common in many parts of Mallorca - where the town, often fortified like Alcudia was built away from the port as a defence against surprise pirates attacks. We walk along the top of the 14th century walls and admire the mountain views. We descend out of the sun and walk alongside the beautiful walls, delighted to be in their shade. Temperatures are well above average, hitting over 30 degrees by afternoon.

    We are all happy to return waterside and cool down. With lots of water based activities on offer in the port we decide to sign up for one the following day. It’s electric surfing and foiling and it is far more challenging than we had expected. The propulsion is controlled by a device in your hand. When you achieve a steady speed by squeezing the trigger you are then suppose to move from a lying or kneeling position to standing. In all the excitement and attempted movement it is hard to maintain a steady press on the trigger. I either let the trigger go or press it tight with the same result - splash into the water.
    After our short session we were bruised, exhausted and exhilarated. It was such fun.
    Les mer

  • Tidying away the sails as we come into Alcudia bayRonan to the rescueRégal in Alcanada

    Coming into Alcudia Bay

    3. juni 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The landscape becomes very dramatic as we sail from east to west cross the bay of Alcudia. Ahead of us are high mountains and cliffs soaring from the sea. They are awesome and beautiful. We sail to an anchorage surrounded by cliffs. It is totally wild with no sign of civilisation ashore. The thought of dropping anchor and staying here overnight is exciting and daunting because of the looming cliffs. As we hover in the bay we feel the swell rolling in, it will be an uncomfortable night here. A good night’s sleep trumps a good view so we take in our surroundings for a little while longer and then sail into Alcudia bay leaving wilderness behind. We find a rather more civilised little anchorage next to Alcanada golf course. We have a combined shopping and picnic expedition ashore and come home for a good night’s sleep in this sheltered spot.
    The next day is overcast and windy but Régal is comfortable as she is protected from the swell by the little island to the north. Ronan goes for a snorkel to see how things are under the waterline. We are in 5 meters of water but when he swims around the boat he discovers that there are plateaus of higher rock nearby. If the wind changes direction the boat will too and our keel may end up over one of these rocky outcrops or worse, on one. To ensure we are okay no matter which way the wind blows Ruby and he get in the dingy with a lead line to measure the depths a various high points on the rocky shelves. Shortly afterwards I help too and jump in the water with mask and snorkel to find the high patches. The shallowest patch we find is 2.7 meters which means we can rest easy as our 1.8 meter deep keel will never touch it.
    The wind picks up more and we watch the day trippers on tourists boats try to enjoy Paddle boarding but it’s no fun in these conditions.
    Nearby a dinghy breaks its mooring and is blown into the hard shoreline. We watch as it continuously bangs against the rocky shore and nobody comes to its rescue. Then Ronan, all heroic like, puts on his superman togs and swims in to the dinghy. He grabs its painter rope and ties it across his enormous manly chest. With his arms powering through the water, he tows the dinghy back out to the mooring bouy and ties it off securely.
    He leaps back on board Régal and from his crew he receives some limp and short- lived praise. If only there had been other on-lookers. They would have been very impressed but the crew of Régal have become accustomed to living with such a hero.
    Les mer