Autumn Hues in Hwange

We are loving Zimbabwe so much. Maybe its the gentler climate at this time of year or the dreamy scenery offering multilayered hues like a painting or the smiles and genuine warmth of the people we meet…..or most likely its a combination of all the above.

We leave Victoria Falls saying goodbye to our friends flying back to France and drive through the coal mines at Sinamatella to enter Hwange Park again, this time exploring the heart of the reserve.

The Autumn hues of Hwange are like a balm for the soul. We pass through Mopani woodlands filled with every shade of yellow gold auburn and red and the landscape takes on a surreal shape before our eyes feeling like an English countryside in Autumn instead of the African bushveld. Hwange seems to surprise us at every turn as just when we are oohing and ahhhing at the parklike surrounds suddenly we come out into marshlands with long lush grasses interspersed with waterholes and following a twisty track to our camp.

Kapula Camp is everything we can dream of with raised luxury style Meru tents boasting delightful outdoor showers and wooden decks overlooking the grassy marshland where elephants pass by to the waterhole in front of our very own private lounge/dining area. William the camp caretaker greets us on arrival and offers to light the Boma fire.

We sigh with happiness and spend our next 3 days in blissful relaxation absorbing the stunning surrounds from the comfy couch on the deck with the occasional visit to one of the surrounding dams which are all huge and filled with birdlife, crocs and hippos. Our favourite two elephant bulls systematically come to drink at the waterhole daily during the heat of the day and at night break into camp to munch on the trees next door to our tents.

One afternoon our camp ranger comes excitedly to wake us up from our siesta: “lions are near the camp just up the private road near the solar panels”. We rush out and scout the area driving our vehicles in two different directions but keeping radio contact and after exploring fruitlessly for a while further up one track we see them, a family pride of a large male with 3 lionesses and 1 cub of around 6 months. They are in the open right near the road which is so lucky for us. The cub is curious and peeks out from behind his mother then walks boldly towards us and lies down at a safe distance where he can watch us. We get to spend some precious moments with him.Read more