Uncovering the hidden gems of this incredible country in our trusty 4x4 Read more
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  • Day 1

    Victoria Falls a good place to start

    May 7, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    “Famba Zvakanaka”- Have a Good Journey ( Dusty Road )

    Victoria Falls is the perfect place to start an adventure. The grandeur and pure mighty energy of this great African waterfall enthrals both body and soul. Wherever you are in town or the surrounding vicinity you can feel it from a distance and see the spray rising high into the sky.

    We are so excited to meet Amelie at the airport and there is a band of Shona dancers beating drums and singing an African song to welcome her as she steps into the Zimbabwean sunshine for the first time.

    We spend the afternoon relaxing and catching up at Nkosi Lodge, our zen style guest house complete with rainforest garden and waterfall feature tumbling behind the pool. The next afternoon during the heat of the day we set out to explore the Falls. Nothing can quite prepare one for a first encounter of Mosi-O-Tunya, the Great Smoke that Thunders. The ground trembles, the roar fills your ears and as you approach nearer the sight of the tumbling water arched by shimmering rainbows is an unforgettable sight to behold.

    We dance and laugh and celebrate life family and friendship under the spray of the Falls delighting in the shifts of views from rainbows to lush green forest and the ever changing waves of the spray from the Falls carried by the wind. By the time we return to our vehicle we are thoroughly drenched but smiling from ear to ear.

    We complete our day with a visit to the historic iconic Victoria Falls Hotel where we watch the sun go down with the spray of the Falls in the background and then drink decadent cocktails on the elegant terrace.

    We then go on to have dinner or more like “a taste sensation” at Dusty Road, the quaintest authentic Zimbabwean restaurant located in the local township filled with colourful quirky upcycles decor, crafts and the tastiest dishes created with local ingredients. Even old bathtubs and basins have been converted into couches and chairs ! We meet the owner Mama Sarah who tells us the story of how her longed for dream and passion became reality and continues to inspire and assist the local community and leave with beautifully painted tin plates to replace our old plastic camping ones. All in all an evening to remember filled with delicious food warmheartedness and inspiration on how one individual can make such a wonderful difference in this African country full of surprises.
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  • Day 2

    Autumn Hues in Hwange

    May 8, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We are loving Zimbabwe so much. Maybe its the gentler climate at this time of year or the dreamy scenery offering multilayered hues like a painting or the smiles and genuine warmth of the people we meet…..or most likely its a combination of all the above.

    We leave Victoria Falls saying goodbye to our friends flying back to France and drive through the coal mines at Sinamatella to enter Hwange Park again, this time exploring the heart of the reserve.

    The Autumn hues of Hwange are like a balm for the soul. We pass through Mopani woodlands filled with every shade of yellow gold auburn and red and the landscape takes on a surreal shape before our eyes feeling like an English countryside in Autumn instead of the African bushveld. Hwange seems to surprise us at every turn as just when we are oohing and ahhhing at the parklike surrounds suddenly we come out into marshlands with long lush grasses interspersed with waterholes and following a twisty track to our camp.

    Kapula Camp is everything we can dream of with raised luxury style Meru tents boasting delightful outdoor showers and wooden decks overlooking the grassy marshland where elephants pass by to the waterhole in front of our very own private lounge/dining area. William the camp caretaker greets us on arrival and offers to light the Boma fire.

    We sigh with happiness and spend our next 3 days in blissful relaxation absorbing the stunning surrounds from the comfy couch on the deck with the occasional visit to one of the surrounding dams which are all huge and filled with birdlife, crocs and hippos. Our favourite two elephant bulls systematically come to drink at the waterhole daily during the heat of the day and at night break into camp to munch on the trees next door to our tents.

    One afternoon our camp ranger comes excitedly to wake us up from our siesta: “lions are near the camp just up the private road near the solar panels”. We rush out and scout the area driving our vehicles in two different directions but keeping radio contact and after exploring fruitlessly for a while further up one track we see them, a family pride of a large male with 3 lionesses and 1 cub of around 6 months. They are in the open right near the road which is so lucky for us. The cub is curious and peeks out from behind his mother then walks boldly towards us and lies down at a safe distance where he can watch us. We get to spend some precious moments with him.
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  • Day 5

    Eastern Hwange Grasslands

    May 11, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Our next destination in Hwange is the Eastern side of the park which offers us a completely different perspective with open golden grasslands peppered with sun bleached dry groves of trees and forested giant trees off the main track. It feels good to have more open space to view wildlife and we are in luck here with seeing plains antelope such as zebra, impala, giraffe and LOTS of elephant.

    We are camping back in our own tents at a special private Zim Parks campsite called Kennedy Camp and run by a wonderful young caretaker who keeps the ablutions and campsite meticulously clean and donkey boiler always on the ready for a warm shower.

    At night we have regular elephant visitors in camp coming to shake the Camelthorn trees and then vacuuming up the pale grey pods with their trunks from the ground. The pinging sound of pods falling onto the tin roof of our caretakers home peppers the sounds of the night and we hear lions roaring so close to camp they must be just outside.

    The next day we drive to the nearby waterhole where we find two large male lions lying under the shade of a large Leadwood tree. Later in the day towards evening a herd of two hundred or so elephant come down to drink and one large bull in musk chases off the lions and then proceeds to charge our vehicle. It’s a stand off and he grumpily turns back to enjoy his daily drink of water.

    We are reluctant to leave Hwange on our last day but one of the highlights we are really looking forward to is a visit to the Painted Wolf Educational and Rehabilitation Center located just outside its main gate.

    The centre is a critically important venue for local communities and children to learn about the importance of Wild Dogs in their area and to bring awareness to the dangers they face at the hands of humans as poaching is still a major issue and many wild dogs get either caught in snares or are killed on roads or community lands. The Painted Wolf Center does amazing work fitting collars and keeping track of over 31 packs of wild dogs in Zim also housing a state of the art hospital and rehabilitation area. We are so impressed by their professionalism and the positive impact they are having on the local communities.
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  • Day 7

    Magical Motopo

    May 13, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Motopo Park is one of those places where you can’t help but be awe inspired by the grandeur of the scenery. The granite topped hills where boulders balance on top of each other at all angles defy logic. There is a famous rock formation called Mother and Child that we stop to view and many others of all shapes towering into the sky. We feel like children in the land of a giants playground but here miraculously the boulders stacked on top of each other take eons to actually erode and fall.

    Motopo is also a 4x4 enthusiasts paradise with off the beaten tracks leading over rocks, rivers, around lakes and to caves which we are eager to explore. We take one of these bumpy tracks to a cave recommended for its incredible rockart paintings. It’s quite a climb on arrival up a steep path with overhanging trees and beautifully honey scented flowers guiding us up to reach the entrance but when we get there it is well worth the effort. The cavern is gigantic and covered from wall to wall with the most exquisite orange hued paintings like a giant story book through many generations of San people dating back 2000 years.

    We visit another more easily accessed cave where the paintings are not so clear and well preserved but where the cultural museum is located and have an interesting guided talk by the curator on the history of Motopo and its original first peoples.

    One of the other unique activities we want to take part in at Motopo is rhino tracking. The park has one of the most stable and ever growing populations of White Rhino definitely due to the 24 hour tracking and surveillance of the many rangers who have dedicated their lives to protecting these vulnerable animals from poaching. We can’t believe how close we get to a family of three rhinos with our tracker less than 20 meters ! The mother with grown up daughter and youngster are so calm and relaxed in our presence just continuing to eat on the grasses they love so much and moving slowly and steadily away. The guardian of these particular rhino has been doing this for over 17 years and his dedication and love for the animals is apparent.

    We stop for our lunch at one of the lakes in the park. There are many of them some more easily found and others a hidden surprise when driving along. We have the place to ourselves most of the time as not many people explore further than the famous historic Rhodes Grave and main lake. It feels like a magical journey as each track we take leads us down another green treed path filled with birds, antelope and monkeys popping in and out of the greenery and to glistening lakes surrounded by grasses interspersed with reeds like emerald jewels in the surrounding bush veld.

    The day is ending and reluctantly we head back to our camp at Big Cave Lodge. The setting for this lodge is spectacular located on the hilltop with gigantic boulders all around including a massive one dominating the dining/lounge. Its the perfect setting to enjoy sundowners after another beautiful day in this incredible country.
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  • Day 9

    The Great Zimbabwean Ruins

    May 15, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We are staying on the banks of Lake in a beautiful small campsite at Romelda Lodge where we can pick fresh lemons and avocados from the bountiful trees all around. We have based ourselves here so that we can easily spend a day exploring the legendary Great Zimbabwean Ruins.

    The drive there is truly spectacular following the route around the Eastern banks of the lake and then winding over and around hills dotted with traditional mud brick houses and veggie gardens. Everyone is so friendly and has the time of day to stop and wave as we pass by.

    Late morning we arrive at the Great Zimbabwean Ruins entrance gate and a guide is available on site to take us around. Ishmael is truly amazing ( having even studied archaeology ) and brings the story of Great Zimbabwe to life with his stories and historical perspective spending double the time with us than a usual tour takes. His favourite phrase “it is said “ makes us smile long after our time here.

    We start with a climb up to the Kings Residence on top of an impressively high dolomite hill and enter via a steep stone stairway between two huge vertical boulders allowing only one person at a time to pass through, part of the defence strategy back in the day. There is also the “Maidens Path” as an alternative more gradual inclined route which was used by the young maidens chosen to serve the King to carry water from the river below. We can only imagine what a task that would have been !

    On top of the Kings Enclave we take huge breathes of awe at the 360 degrees views stretching out in all directions. We pass through the Ritual Chamber where the spiritual advisor to the King would have stayed and where all significant ceremonies such as rain making took place. High above sits a gigantic overhanging rock where the King would sit holding judgement over all in his Kingdom and have the perfect Birds Eye view over all his subjects below including the Queens Residence. We are reminded of the first original people, the San that lived here and most likely used the same spaces for their own spiritual practises. A Black Raven calls continuously from a tree growing in a rocky crevice nearby lending an eery and haunting feel to our experience.

    We walk past a buried tunnel where “it is said” archaeologists think the lineage of Kings that once ruled are buried and then back down the hill visiting the museum where the royal bird statues of Zimbabwe originally found in the Kings Residence are housed ( you can see the emblem on the Zimbabwean flag) and over to a replica homestead where local crafters are busy at work weaving baskets and carving from wood and stone.

    Each traditional mud hut here shows what life would have been like hundreds of years ago living in this ancient Kingdom and when we look at the rural homesteads we pass on our travels the same set up seems to still apply.

    We still have the Queens Residence to visit and it is wonderfully cool here in the shade of the stone walls in the afternoon heat. The masonry craftmanship is unbelievable with the 258m stonework circular walls still intact after 600 years and symbolic conical tower rising so high. “It is said” that these structures are second only to the Great Pyramids in Africa.

    It has been a long but fascinating day. We say our goodbyes to Ishmael, enjoy a late picnic lunch under the trees and then head back to our little campsite by the lake. On our circular return route we stop in Mashvingo auto visit a recommended beautiful chapel called the Italian Prisoner of War Memorial Church built to commemorate all the Italians who died in Zimbabwe during World War Two. Beautiful Romanesque style paintings adorn all the walls and ceilings of this peaceful holy place and we meet the lady who is the 2nd generation in her family to lovingly care for its upkeep. She hugs us and wishes us well on our way still standing vigilance and waving in the distance as we drive away.
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  • Day 11

    A village visit

    May 17, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We are off to Motopo Hills but before we get there we are visiting a tiny village near Chipingi where we have promised to spend time with a very special family, the family of Matts work friend now best buddy in Cape Town appropriately named Heavens.

    Heavens family consists of Mama Joyce who takes care of his two children Jnr Joyce 11 years and Gareth 7 years. Under her extended care umbrella also falls Heavens sister Patience with her 3 children and another 4 grandchildren from his brothers side. This family arrangement is very common in Zimbabwe where jobs are scarce and salaries too low to provide for a family. Heavens works in Cape Town as a plumber apprentice living in one of South Africa’s many sprawling townships where violence is rife and sends all his hard earnings back home. To his family and all those he meets he is a blessing and Matt has been in constant communication with him to plan this day.

    We meet Freedom his brother at Birchenough Bridge and he hops in our vehicle to guide us to the village. First stop is sister Patience’s house where hugs and a gathering of children of all ages greets us and we are ushered inside her immaculately cleaned home to make formal introductions. It soon becomes apparent that the whole village is involved in our much anticipated visit and part of the planning is to stop at all the family members homes, sitting and sharing smiles laughs ( and tears at the high emotion of the day ) and stories together.

    The culmination is at Mama Joyce’s home where she gives us the warmest of welcomes dancing and ululating as we spill out the cars as one big happy family together with brothers, sisters and kids and are drawn into hugs with tears of happiness. Her home is the heart of the family with a larger living room where all gather communally for all occasions. We sit around the circumference of the room with all the children in the middle and Mama Joyce says a prayer of gratitude for our visit to her village and home followed by family members sharing stories. The children join in reciting adorable poems and songs learnt at school.

    Slowly but surely more and more neighbours arrive to be part of the celebrations. Photos and more photos are taken, babies held, gifts given, grandmothers enjoying biscuits and kids lollipops and then it’s time for us to be on our way. We leave from the village everyone waving and smiling with our hearts so full. What we have shared together this day is priceless a part of the heart and soul of Zimbabwe and we will never forget.
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  • Day 12

    Chimanimani Mountains

    May 18, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The road winds up and up bringing us closer to our destination high in the mountains for the next 4 nights. We pass forestry plantations and village homesteads with terraced vegetable gardens and everything is a hundred shades of green wherever we look. Chimanimani is like a completely different world which we are rapidly discovering is the norm when you are moving from place to place in Zimbabwe.

    The magic of the mountains entrances us and the change of climate is cooler with temperatures dropping below 10 degrees at night perfect for fireside evenings in our home from home at Frog and Fern Lodge.

    We are tired after lots of driving and perhaps are also finally unwinding after all the planning and tying up life back home to go on this extended several month trip, so we spend the entire next day relaxing in the tranquil gardens at our lodge.

    The next morning we are up bright and early for a hike with Timothy our guide and a long term friend of Peters. We leave from our lodge taking a circular meandering path through the mountains and then alongside the river into the Chimanimani Park renowned for its incredible waterfalls. We reach the Bridal Veil Falls legs stiff after a good few hours walking with 6 weeks mostly sitting in a vehicle and jump into the clear refreshing waters of the pool below, pure bliss. This waterfall is really high with “veils” of crystal white water cascading over the rocky mountain face into the huge pool below.

    Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better we take another day trip and walk to Tessa’s Pool, a waterfall with the most magical secluded clear water swimming pool below surrounded by lush vegetation, ferns and hanging rock aloes. We spend the afternoon diving and having fun jumping into the pool.

    Chimanimani is really the most special paradise. It’s a shame that most of the old buildings like the hotel are run down and obviously struggling to see enough visitors through their doors. The central food market in the village is full of colorful fruits and veggies and we buy the best avocados and watermelons from there to take with us on the road. We feel relaxed and rejuvenated after our 4 days here and are ready for our next destination…the capital of Zimbabwe Harare.
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  • Day 15

    Harare & Chimonyi Caves

    May 21, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Harare is a city full of surprises. Bustling and busy you can find anything and everything here as long as you know where to go. We are amazed at the number of new modern style shopping centres some to rival any Parisian town complete with French patisseries selling almond croissants , strawberry tartlets, chocolate eclairs ( we found 4 in one shopping centre ! ) and a Chocolaterie with a full range of delectable truffles. We indulge ourselves with poke bowls at the trendy Three Monkeys Restaurant for lunch and enjoy a delicious gelato from an ice cream shop. We also browse boutique style clothing stores, linen and candle stores and more on our way to buy vegan products from a specialised shop we find online.

    All stocked up again with supplies from Foodlovers Market and ready to go we leave Harare after 2 days and head to Chimonyi where we plan to stay for 1 night and visit the nearby sacred Chimonyi Caves.

    A visit to these caves is well worth our time. We pay our entrance fee and after a short walk downhill we see the dark entrance with stone stairway leading down with a patch of dark tanzanite blue water fringed by green trees way below. It’s a steady slow climb down with stops along the way to appreciate the ever approaching breathtaking views of the pool.

    As we get to the pool’s edge we stop and take time to sit and contemplate, imagining the first people who lived here and how precious this fresh water pool must have been to them. The peacefulness and deep sense of tranquility lives on in this sacred cave. When we exit the cave we find a baboon troop quietly browsing all around. There are lots of mothers with tiny babies. This must now be their special place where the sacred spirit of Chimonyi lives on.
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  • Day 17

    Chitake Springs

    May 23, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Mention Chitake Springs to anyone who has been there and they all have a story to tell.

    We are staying 2 nights at this special inland spring in Mana Pools Park and some amongst us are excited and others a little trepidous due to its reputation of being a really WILD place to camp. The pride of Chitake lions numbers 25 strong and they are known to be active all around the Spring and riverbed where we will be camping.

    The first story we have is that we can’t seem to find our campsite which is number 2. We find number 1 in the perfect location right on the river bank with open views both ways up and down the riverbed. Then we find number 3 more secluded but closer to the Spring and riverbed. We drive quite a way on coming to a grove of magnificent Baobab trees sitting on top of a hill with panoramic views over the surrounds, where the track ends and we decide to have our lunch and potentially camp should we not find our designated spot. Feeling refreshed we head back down to the riverbed and finally see a small sign with campsite number 2 on it only to discover it is totally surrounded by dense bush, the perfect place for a lion ambush ! We retreat to the first campsite and decide to stay here if nobody else claims their spot before dark.

    Campsite 1 is really special. We watch elephant walking up and down the dry riverbed digging in the sand to create their own round waterholes. The youngsters get down on their knees to allow their trunks to reach the fresh water and the older elephants take turns with the youngsters taking long draughts of water up their trunks and then splashing it into their mouths. This goes on well into the night with trumpeting and jostling between the large bulls waking us up frequently as they are so close.

    Then there are the lions. From the first evening of our arrival until the morning of our departure we are surrounded by the roars of the lions. It is awe inspiring and like no other sound on Earth thrilling and scary at the same time. They are moving from one side of the riverbank to the other and the first evening after hearing a lot of roars we walk tentatively down onto the riverbed where we have the special experience of watching them walk up the opposite riverbank one by one. There is a buffalo carcass at the far end of the Spring with lots of vultures around and we assume they had made a kill the day before our arrival.
    After our evening braai we shine the torch onto the riverbed and see a lioness walking along the riverbed in our direction. She turns and heads up the opposite bank into the darkness but that is enough excitement for us and we quickly climb into our tents safe and secure for the night.

    Chitake Springs holds its reputation and we have simply loved our time here.
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  • Day 21

    Mana Pools

    May 27, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    After Chitake Springs we are happy to settle into a quieter and more tranquil environment for the next couple days and Nkupe Campsite on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River is just the spot.

    The views from our campsite are just idyllic with a greenbelt of grassy marshland where we can birdwatch to our hearts content in the forefront and the sparkling wide river behind home to so many hippos we have lost count. One afternoon we count over 45 out of the water on the Zambian riverbank opposite us and at night it feels and sounds like one big hippo party with the most incredible sounds resonating throughout the night. We all wake up laughing one morning as there is one hippo right by our campsite who has the most long winded baritone song which he mournfully bellows for at least an hour before dawn !

    At Mana Pools you are allowed to get out your vehicle and walk around ( with a permit ) which first seems a little crazy to us without a ranger; however makes sense when we realise the landscape here is full of large open spaces inland and open riverbanks overlooking the Zambezi River. It doesn’t take us long to enjoy stretching our legs on an early morning bird walk from our camp alongside the river and it’s so peaceful to hear all the sounds of Nature around us and be out the vehicle. We spend a long time at a pool where Little Bee eaters and Pied Kingfishers are hunting and spot a terrapin and 2 crocs. The huge trees all around are green and full of birds and while we are walking back we spot a beautiful Eland peeping out between two trees perfectly framed.

    Every evening we choose to stay at our campsite as the sunset and colours over the waters change into a pallet of oranges to pinks to lilac and we relax into harmony with our natural surrounds as another deep orange sunrise starts each day.

    Mana Pools is named after its four large inland pools lending a magical feel to this diverse landscape which is dotted with gigantic trees where the elephants apparently stand up on their hind legs to eat the thorntree pods every winter season. The pools are like green oases in the surrounding dusty dry plains and are filled with lilies. One morning we spot a flock of grey headed parrots coming down to drink and another day we see a hippo in disguise under a full head of green water plants and lilies.

    We are rapidly falling in love with Mana Pools and could happily stay here for much longer. Throughout our stay we are on the look out for the Painted Wolves which are well known in the park and are denning at the moment but have been seen out and about hunting in the early dawn by the research team. On our last day we head for this region again and are thrilled to see 10 Spotted Hyena with an impala kill. We have been hearing them every night around our camp and throughout our trip but haven’t been lucky to spot one yet and now we are blessed to see 10 at the same time !

    Mana Pools we will be back.
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