Chitake Springs

Mention Chitake Springs to anyone who has been there and they all have a story to tell.

We are staying 2 nights at this special inland spring in Mana Pools Park and some amongst us are excited and others a little trepidous due to its reputation of being a really WILD place to camp. The pride of Chitake lions numbers 25 strong and they are known to be active all around the Spring and riverbed where we will be camping.

The first story we have is that we can’t seem to find our campsite which is number 2. We find number 1 in the perfect location right on the river bank with open views both ways up and down the riverbed. Then we find number 3 more secluded but closer to the Spring and riverbed. We drive quite a way on coming to a grove of magnificent Baobab trees sitting on top of a hill with panoramic views over the surrounds, where the track ends and we decide to have our lunch and potentially camp should we not find our designated spot. Feeling refreshed we head back down to the riverbed and finally see a small sign with campsite number 2 on it only to discover it is totally surrounded by dense bush, the perfect place for a lion ambush ! We retreat to the first campsite and decide to stay here if nobody else claims their spot before dark.

Campsite 1 is really special. We watch elephant walking up and down the dry riverbed digging in the sand to create their own round waterholes. The youngsters get down on their knees to allow their trunks to reach the fresh water and the older elephants take turns with the youngsters taking long draughts of water up their trunks and then splashing it into their mouths. This goes on well into the night with trumpeting and jostling between the large bulls waking us up frequently as they are so close.

Then there are the lions. From the first evening of our arrival until the morning of our departure we are surrounded by the roars of the lions. It is awe inspiring and like no other sound on Earth thrilling and scary at the same time. They are moving from one side of the riverbank to the other and the first evening after hearing a lot of roars we walk tentatively down onto the riverbed where we have the special experience of watching them walk up the opposite riverbank one by one. There is a buffalo carcass at the far end of the Spring with lots of vultures around and we assume they had made a kill the day before our arrival.
After our evening braai we shine the torch onto the riverbed and see a lioness walking along the riverbed in our direction. She turns and heads up the opposite bank into the darkness but that is enough excitement for us and we quickly climb into our tents safe and secure for the night.

Chitake Springs holds its reputation and we have simply loved our time here.Read more