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Tim In Japan
Tim In Japan

Tim In Japan

Former IT office worker, now liberated to chase a dream! Läs mer🇦🇺Wooloowin
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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    View of Ichilbung from my lunch spot
    2Summit selfie1Panorama on the way down, Mt Hallasan in the backgroundThe trail down to the beach, which I takeView of Ichilbung from the beachPaddling at Gimnyeong Beach

    Seongsan Ichilbung

    13 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So this is my second day on Jeju Island. The first day comprised the ferry trip (nothing special), the taxi ride from the ferry terminal to the hotel (usual cockup) and browsing around Jeju City. I went to a Mexican place for dinner and ordered a drink that included Somersby apple cider! So they CAN be found.

    Today I'll be taking 7 buses, giving my travelcard a thorough working over. The first bus takes me to the bus terminal. From outside the terminal I take a bus that takes me clockwise around the island about 90 degrees. After one of the stops (Gimnyeong) I notice a sandy beach so plan to stop off here on the way back.

    I disembark at Goseong-ri junction and walk to the bus stop across the road. This is where I take a local bus that goes to near Seongsan port. The weather is excellent today, the best that I'll experience on the island. I walk around some of the coastline as far as The Cloud Hotel (so THAT'S where it is, IT humour 😁). There's a good place nearby, overlooking the water, for a spot of lunch.

    After lunch I take a small trail to the base of Ichilbung, where I buy a ticket and join the masses for the walk up to the 180 metre summit. Simply spectacular views on a fine day, as my photos show. At the summit I drink in the view, it's Rio-esque on a smaller scale.

    On the way down there are some great views of the local area and Mt Hallasan, which is a volcanic peak and S Korea's highest mountain. Further on it's possible to detour down to the beach, which I do. Just rocks, no sand. There's a stall selling live seafood, octopus anyone? I wander around the rockpools for a while before heading back to the bus stop.

    Soon there's a local bus that takes me back to Goseong-ri junction. Surprisingly the intercity bus arrives within 5 minutes, I usually assume that I've just missed the bus. Lucky as there is a 50 minute interval between these buses. It drops me off at Gimnyeong and I walk to the beach.

    Weather's still decent, so I take off my hiking boots and paddle barefoot in the water for around 15 minutes. Noone else does this, ofc, but I find it very therapeutic. A photographer is nearby shooting either a fashion spread or a commercial. His model is wearing a robe and walks into the water (no disrobing) until her head is fully submerged. Then she walks out a minute later (freezing). The things we do for art (or money) 😦

    Back to the bus stop, I backtrack to Jeju Bus Terminal and then the hotel. It's been a LONG day.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    View from my room in Wandonesia

    Wando

    11 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I'm due on Jeju Island tomorrow. The closest port to the island is Wando, which is my destination today.

    However I do have some time to kill before heading to the bus terminal, so I visit an art gallery and then the Asian Culture Complex. The medication has kicked in and I find it hard to concentrate on the task at hand. One of the lady reception staff at the hotel is kind enough to call a taxi for me when it's time to leave. She even starts to help me load my megaluggage into the boot - that's a WHS issue if I've ever seen one so I decline her help.

    I thought I'd given myself plenty of time to get to the bus terminal, but traffic congestion and red lights eat into the contingency. Every red light costs 3 minutes of time, they start to add up. Anyway I have around 6 minutes to spare when we reach the bus terminal.

    It's around a 2 hour trip to Wando. The bus driver does a quick head count and tells me to buckle up. Later on I understand why, as he takes cornering as a speed challenge. I can feel my ribs under pressure from the seat belt 😫

    Arriving at Wando, I eschew taking a taxi for a walk with my luggage. It's around a 10 minute trip to Wandonesia (I'm not making this up) where I'm staying. It's no problem checking in, the problem is that my room number is 403 and I'm Wandonesia is a hostel without lifts. So I have to haul my luggage up 3 flights of stairs (remembering that ground floor is 1F).

    The room is quite lovely though, particularly the bathroom. There is a lot of road noise but once I close the double-glazed windows I hear nothing.

    I want to buy a ticket for tomorrow's 9am ferry to Jeju. Unfortunately the ticket office is closed, even though it's not long after 4. Looks like I'll need to be there at 8am tomorrow when the ticket office reopens. I take the first 3 attached photos on the way back to Wandonesia, then the last photo from my room.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    On the way up (long way to go)
    Seeking divine guidance1My lunch benchAt Jungmeorijae PassView of Gwangju from Jungmeorijae PassAt Jangbuljae Pass

    Mudeungsan National Park

    10 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Having enjoyed a taste of Mudeungsan National Park yesterday, I've come back today to do a full hike. As I walk into the park I pass Tourist Information, where a couple of gents who work there are sitting outside with clipboards. I am asked to fill in some profile information. No problem, don't even lie about my age group.

    It's much more humid in the park this morning than when I came yesterday. It seems like many people have already finished their hike at this time, early risers. There are quite a few shops and accommodation at the front of the park. I wandered around some of these before starting the hike.

    There are several trails that I'm interested in, but given my head cold I don't want to overdo it. I take the Jungmeorijae Pass trail, which will take me to Saeinbong peak (617 metres). I sweat profusely on the climb up, I much prefer hiking on cool or cold days.

    At the peak there is a rock showing the height. Great views of Gwangju to the east. It's another kilometre to Jungbong peak, and it is more difficult, so I abandon that trail after 15 minutes or so.

    Instead I take the trail for Jangbuljae Pass, which is at 919 metres. When I get there I find there are no views as what looks to be smog obscures most of Gwangju. What's worse is that there is no quick trail leading down so I have to backtrack the whole way back to the park entrance.

    By this time my cotton shorts are soaked in sweat. It's not a good look, considering every Korean hiker wears a "uniform" of dark nylon trekking trousers. I should have worn my board shorts! My hiking trousers would be too hot on a day like this.

    Usually there is a bit of a wait at the bus stop, in the sun, for the #09 bus to return to the city. I buy an iced coffee at the Angel-in-us cafe (who makes up these names?) which overlooks the bus stop, allowing me to wait in the cool. It does mean a mad scramble when the bus does arrive, but that's a price I'm willing to pay ...

    Finally back at the hotel, and a shower is the first order of business, followed by a long rest.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär

    Jaywalking in South Korea

    9 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Those of you that know me well know that I've practiced the art of jaywalking for over 35 years. It's a sign of impatience as there usually isn't a long delay between "walk" signals in Brisbane.

    In Japan and the ROK though ... generations of mayflies are born, breed and die between "walk" signals, I hum the complete "Atom Heart Mother" and feel my life ebbing away 🤔. Many motorists turn off their engines at red light in Japan. As Japan is a constrained society I feel the judgement of the complete population if I should jaywalk. The ROK is less constrained though ...

    I watched some young apprentices weaving their way through cars at a red light. Care needs to be taken though, as not only do they drive on the RHS of the road, but it is legal to turn right on a red light. I try to avoid jaywalking near corners so as to take turning cars out of play. So far, so good. One sprint for my life to avoid a taxi that pulled away from the kerb 😲 but that's it. Even jaywalked a 6 lane road the other night (it had a median strip though).

    So what other ambitions are left for this not-so-ancient art? Of course the Avenida 9 de Julio in Buenos Aires presents a big challenge. It has 3 separate pedestrian sections and is the widest avenue in the world. I have been to BA twice but never conquered this challenge.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    1Park entrance
    A shrine inside the park2 of 4 characters inside the shrine

    Gwangju Day 1

    9 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I had hoped to visit the Byeonsanbando National Park on the Sunday but I've come down with a head cold and the medication I bought makes me feel woozy. It would have meant spending 4 hours in buses there and back so I postpone it.

    So Sunday is a rest day. On Monday I take the bus to Gwangju, which is 90 minutes south of Jeonju. On arrival I notice that the Gwangju bus station is much more modern than Jeonju's. I also buy a ticket for my next destination (Wando) before exiting to the taxi rank.

    Once again the taxi driver can't make head nor tail of the address. He does have a GPS, so I dig up the phone number of my hotel and we're finally on our way. I'm staying at the ACC Design Hotel not far from the Asian Culture Complex (hence the ACC). Gwangju is making a real push to further the arts. I'm able to check in straight away, even though I'm early.

    After settling in and eating some lunch, I look at how I'll spend the afternoon. Gwangju is most famous for the Mudeungsan National Park, and bus #09 will take me there.

    It's a warm day in the city, 29 degrees or thereabouts. However the weather is more moderate in the national park. All photos were taken here. As it turns out, quite a few different bus lines terminate here so the park is easily accessible by public transport.

    There are plenty of people around, but it is the end of the holidays. There are streams that flow through the park, so the sound of running water is continual. I find it very soothing and a welcome distraction from my travels.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Jeondong Catholic Church
    Statue outside the churchOngoing service inside the church1What my dad never did for us when we were youngJeonju Hanok Mauel - yes, more hanbokMen in traditional clothes - it's a Chuseok thing

    Jeonju Day 2

    7 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It's Saturday, so you know what that means - yep, thousands of people out and about. Jeonju has a population of around 650,000 people. Its public transport consists of an aging bus fleet and taxis - no subway. Consequently the city's main roads are clogged on Saturdays, requiring the police to bring some order to what is chaotic.

    There's a traditional village (or mauel) in the middle of the city that I want to look at. So I take the bus and find what looks to be 90% of Jeonju's population had a similar idea.

    Next to the village is Jeondong Catholic Church. Catholicism has had a troubled past in Korea with martyrdoms during the Joseon dynasty. In tribute, French priests arranged for the construction of this church a little over 100 years ago. There's a service going on when I look inside, I took a photo (discreetly).

    In the village itself there are many street stalls selling food, beverages and ice cream. Lots of hanbok and men's traditional clothing in view, apparently the thing to do during Chuseok.

    I walk through the Wine Museum. Disappointingly it has no English descriptions of its displays (most museums here do) so I spend less time than I woud like. It's possible to buy product here as well, but what are you buying?    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    1My digs
    1Provided gratis by the hotelIn the general vicinityIn the general vicinity

    The Hotel Box, Jeonju

    6 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Leaving Suwon, it takes me an age to transfer between the subway and main train station. I sit on my luggage near the ticket office, watching the departures board. As it's not quite 11:30, my 12:02 service doesn't show up for some time. When it does, it shows Track 5, which is where I head.

    My ticket is for car #6 and, like Japan, there are indicators on the platform for each car. There's barely anyone around the area for car #6, so I'm able to sit. After a couple of trains pass by I realize that, not like Japan, car #6 of these trains is back towards the middle of the platform. With a couple of minutes to go I move back to the middle of the platform

    Sure enough, my train arrives and car #6 is not far from where I am now. On board, a man is standing in an area that would make perfect storage for my megaluggage. He magnanimously gives up the space to me. This allows to sit on my luggage for much of the time, so it works out OK.

    On arrival at Jeonju, I join the taxi line outside the station and catch one within 10 minutes. This is the beginning of a new recurring theme where taxi drivers have NO FRIGGING IDEA WHERE MY HOTEL IS. This guy doesn't have a GPS so we resort to Google Maps. It turns out OK, eventually 😡

    So it looks like my hotel is in the middle of what passes for Jeonju's red light district. I present photographic evidence. Panther condoms, "Love Gel" wtf. Anyway it's not exactly the Reeperbahn 😉

    Not a lot of English spoken at the hotel, but they do my laundry for free which is great. I have a black garbage bag for dirty clothes, so when my laundry was returned in a clear plastic bag I asked them (via Google Translate) to find my black bag. Some time later my room phone rings - "black bag, black bag" on the other end, so I head downstairs and trade bags 😄    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Hwaseong Hanggung Palace complex
    Mirohanjeong (I have a reservation)Paldalmun (South Gate)Suwon view from walk up to the fortressThe bell of Hyowon1The long walk down ...

    Hwaseong in Suwon

    5 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Suwon is most famous for its World Heritage listed fortress wall. While it's no Dubrovnik, it is in good condition and its elevated position affords special views of Suwon on a fine day, as today is fortuitously.

    I took 30 photos (that's a lot for me), then whittled these down to 12 (sorry, selfie-lovers, my selfies didn't make the cut). So it was hard to choose just 6 to post.

    I started out catching a bus and alighted once I saw the Padalmun gate. It's in the middle of a large roundabout. I firstly went through the Hanggeung Palace complex, built for King Jeongjo in the late 18th century (thanks, Lonely Planet).

    After this I backtrack to the Padalmun gate and walk up many, many stairs to the top. It's worth it though, as the views of Suwon are magnificent. The fortress walls and watchtower are in excellent condition, I highly recommend this activity to all travellers.

    After all this, I trudge to the train station to buy a ticket to Jeonju. I want to take the 12:02 service there tomorrow, which gets in a bit before 3. I'm told that only standing tickets are available, the first service with seats is at 3:30 pm. This is the big mistake I alluded to previously. I should have bought the ticket on arrival at Suwon previously. Travelling during Chuseok 😓. So I buy a standing ticket for the 12:02 service.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    First park animal hedges
    First park animal hedgesFirst park, not sure what this symbolizes2Second park artworkSecond park artworkSecond park war memorial

    Suwon parks

    4 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I'm staying at the Hotel Bon, which is a curious combination of 1950s furniture and state of the art furniture. There is one (Korean language) remote control, to work the lights, A/C and TV. No light switches except for the bathroom. The key is also from the 1950s, being pretty chunky, but has a chip in it meaning it has to be inserted into a controller (like modern hotel cards).

    Anyway it all gets sorted out and I head out for an afternoon stroll. There are 2 parks close by that I pass through. The first (northern) park is a family park that is well patronized (being Chuseok) and has some outdoor gym equipment. Even chin up bars, one which I use. The first 3 photos come from this park, I found the animal hedges cute.

    The second park houses an Arts complex including an outdoor stage. It is a more "artsy" park, as shown by the last 3 photos.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Stairway to luggage hell #1
    Stairway to luggage hell #2

    Train to Suwon

    4 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So I'm at Seoul Station. I need to find my train on the departure board, no problem. My destination, Suwon, is only 30 minutes by train and can be reached by subway. It's much easier to store my luggage on the train and I have a guaranteed seat.

    The departure information is shown and I head for the platform. I pass through no machines to check my ticket. On the train, nobody asks to look at my ticket. I exit at Suwon after 30 minutes, once again no ticket check. Bit of an "honour" system in play, it costs less to administer if everyone plays the same game.

    It is an absolute crush exiting at Suwon with a horde trying to board. As far as I know, my megaluggage didn't crush anyone, although it got a bit crazy there. Travelling during Chuseok is apparently like that.

    Suwon has a subway system that connects with the train network. This is where I make a big mistake, as will be apparent later. My Pop card (travelcard) can be used on the subway and buses here. I find the subway track and go 2 stops to get close to where I'm staying.

    Exiting the subway station, I unfortunately don't spy the lift that would take me to street level. So I take the stairs ... with over 20 kg of luggage (see photos, taken halfway). If it doesn't kill you it makes you stronger, right? Anyway I take the lift on subsequent days 😀    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Hanbok-wearing princesses
    Hanok village houseChuseok tradition - pounding the doughBackdrop of city against Hanok VillageIf you want to wear hanbok, come here

    Namsangol Hanok Village

    4 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It's my last day in Seoul. I have a ticket for the 12:45 train to Suwon - bought online and kindly printed by hotel reception. This means that I have some hours to go before I leave for Seoul station.

    The Namsangol Hanok Village is around 2km due south of my hotel so it's a reasonable walk to get to it. Still Chuseok, plenty of tourists in the village (why are they not at home with their families?). Lots of hanbok out today, shops like the one in the last photo must do a roaring trade!

    There are stalls set up selling souvenirs, also traditional Chuseok activities. A person might wield a large hammer and pound dough on a wooden board. There's also a type of hacky sack involving a tinsel-like object and spinning tops by using a whip to generate rotation.

    I'm taking the subway to Seoul Station so I need to give myself enough time to navigate the maze that connects the subway station to the main train station.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Hiking trails
    1View of North West Seoul11

    Hiking in the Bukhansan National Park

    3 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This was a fun morning. So it's the Chuseok holiday and lots of places are closed. The weather's great so I decide to do some hiking.

    Seoul is blessed with numerous hiking trails given it's built around 4 mountains. The trail I want to follow is in the Bukhansan National Park, to the NW of my hotel.

    This entails taking the subway to Dokbawi station and proceeding from there. There are a few fellow hikers in the area when I disembark. They're all kitted out similarly, hiking boots, long hiking pants, colourful hiking jacket and 2 hiking poles. I look nothing like this, of course, the only thing I have in common are the boots.

    I reach the start of the hiking trail (1st photo). The trail I choose is the red arrowed one, bottom left signpost. The "peaks" are Jokduribong and Bibong. It starts off fine but soon becomes more "scrambly", if I can say that. Three men my age or older are following me. They power up the rocks with their hiking poles. However the views over Seoul are epic so I take photos when the trail reaches a clearing. All 5 subsequent photos were taken at this time.

    There is a camaraderie amongst hikers, so I receive (and give) more greetings than would be the case just walking in a park. One hiker talks to me for some time in Korean, while he catches his breath. We're both enjoying the view at the time.

    As I have no hiking poles it does limit me to less difficult ascents. The poles aren't a huge asset ascending but I find them invaluable in descending as they reduce the weight going through the knees. I considered buying poles to bring with me but they would have been too difficult to pack. So I rented 2 for the Mt Fuji hike, none since. I reach the point at which I know it will be painful descending ...

    I backtrack to the signposts shown in the first photo and take the Seoul trail. This seems to run along the southern edge of the park and through some of suburbia before going back into the park. People of all ages are enjoying the trail. It's not as strenuous as the first trail, until I decide to take one uphill that I subsequently find also leads to Jokduribong.

    Back down to thd road there is a park where you can stretch (outdoor gym) as well as clean your boots. From there it is a trudge back to Dokbawi station, tired but well exercised.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Seoul from Namsan Park
    N Seoul Tower1Seoul from Namsan ParkOn the way down from Namsan ParkOn the way down from Namsan ParkOn the way down from Namsan Park

    Namsan Park

    2 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The day has warmed up nicely. The sky is mostly cloudless unlike yesterday with its occasional drizzle. I want to take advantage of the weather by going to the N Seoul Tower observatory.

    The tower is in Namsan Park, which in itself has some elevation. Some people walk uphill to the park from lower Namsan, but owing to the heat I opt to take the cable car up and walk back down later.

    Anyway it looks like half of Seoul have a similar idea. I'm in a queue for the ticket line. Fortunately there's shade and a place to rest my daypack, albeit a tad close to the electrified fence, as the queue moves from outside the building to inside. Then I pay 6000 won ($6.50) for the one way trip and walk upstairs to the boarding area, also known as queue number 2.

    Eventually we all cram into a cable car. As I'm not one of the first to board I don't have any photo ops going up. We disembark, it has taken at least an hour from go to whoa. I walk over to the Tower Observatory ticket booth and see that it's another half hour wait to go up to the observatory. I'm all queued out for the time being, maybe another day.

    So I walk around Namsan Park for a while, then go inside the shopping area for some refreshment. There's a cafe selling frappucinos and I'm lucky enough to find a seat nearby. First rest I've taken since walking to Gyeongbokgung Palace earlier this morning. I take my time enjoying the frappucino.

    After half an hour or so I decide to walk back down. There are a number of people walking both up and down, I'm sort of envious of those walking up as they've avoided the queuing experience. On the downside, some of them look absolutely knackered.

    There's a mother and young son walking down, the boy is counting the steps in English (as far as 10 anyway, after that he's back to 1). I compliment him on his English.

    It's a fair way downhill to get back to the subway. There's more shopping around this area (both Hoehyeon and Myeongdong underground) than where I'm staying.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Heungnymun Gate
    1Geunjeongjeon Hall1Inside Sajeongjeon HallCeremonial performance1A Korean Magpie

    Gyeongbokgung Palace

    2 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It's the beginning of 8 days of public holidays. Normally it costs 3,000 won ($3.30) to enter the royal palaces, but it's free on public holidays. Downside is that there are no English guided tours, so I'm on my own.

    There are performances reenacting traditional palace rituals. I take some video as one is going on and then a photo of the protagonists at the end.

    There are of course some gardens in the palace vicinity. I watch the activities of some squirrels (irresistibly cute) and take a photo of a Korean magpie. They are the dominant bird species in Seoul and are much smaller than their Australian cousins. Their birdcall is an endearing chuckling noise, making a refreshing change from the crows in Hokkaido.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    The War Memorial
    The War MemorialThe Statue of Brothers4Korean War artwork, installed to commemorate 50 years of the armisticeThird country in after the US and UK (sounds familiar)Gone but not forgotten

    The War Memorial of Korea

    1 oktober 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Seoul is very quiet on a Sunday morning. There's also drizzle around so it won't be a good day for outdoors. I'm an early riser, I figure I should visit a museum that opens around 9am. The War Memorial of Korea fits the bill nicely.

    There are a couple of statues and monuments at the front of the complex. There's a display discussing the genesis of the modern ROK armed forces (all after 1948) and displays discussing the battles fought by various battalions. All very compelling.

    Closer to the entrance is a "United Nations" commemoration of all countries that contributed troops and/or medical staff to the war. Far flung countries such as the Philippines and Colombia were contributors as well as the usual suspects (I'm not being critical here, it's just a saying).

    Inside I'm able to join an English guided tour, much detail about the background to the Korean War and how countries lined up behind the protagonists.

    There's so much to see but I'm extremely hungry so I make tracks for a Mexican restaurant called Gusto Taco. The owner (Aaron) is a 50 year old New Yorker who understands GF and recommends a bowl of slow cooked pork burritos. I duly comply and he comes over for more conversation while I'm eating. Turns out he spent 20 years in IT on Wall Street and is still interested in the field. We chat about quantum computing and blockchain, as you do. He tells me a lot of Westerners struggle with Korean food because they want to try everything. Really enjoyable experience.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    1The huddled masses

    Seoul Fireworks Night

    30 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Each year around a million Seoul residents gather to watch fireworks from Yeouinaru Park. There are numerous family-oriented activities that run during the day but after 7pm the fireworks are the main draw. Sort of like Riverfire without the aircraft ...

    I take the subway to Gongdeok, where I change lines for the line going to Yeouinaru Park (2 stops). I'm standing at the end of the platform to maximize my chances. The first train comes and ... it's full, or near enough so I don't get on board. The 2nd train comes and ... it's the same as the first. I sense a pattern.

    So I exit the station and walk to the Mapo Bridge, as do many, many others. Many people set up on both sides of the bridge to watch the fireworks. I stand behind the pram of a family so I have a good view (discounting the tree that's in the way!)

    Take some photos and the first session of fireworks are done. I don't stay for the next set, but it's very slow trying to push through the crowd. Once I'm off the bridge it's much easier going. Easy to take trains now!    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    The Bell of Peace at Imjingak Peace Park
    Reunification monument at Imjingak Peace ParkBrotherhood monument at Imjingak Peace ParkThe 3rd tunnel monumentNorth Korea!Not a selfie for a change ... North Korean backdrop

    The DMZ

    30 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I'll admit that this is the number 1 reason I've come to the ROK. It costs 46,000 won (51 AUD) for a half day tour but it's worth it. I'm picked up at 8:30 by Seoul City Tours and pay the tour guide Gemma (her Western name, she's a local).

    We pick up more people so around 10 of us are travelling in a minibus. We all bring passports to make sure no spies are on board. I try to match my expression to my passport photo, but that scowling hurts my face if I do it for too long ☹

    The first stop is the Imjingak Peace Park. It has a pretty park, souvenir shops of course and some views. I think we have around 25 minutes here, Gemma keeps us to a tight schedule. There are a number of monuments and statues here, see first 3 photos.

    What comes through from the day is the desire for reunification within the ROK. However, relations between the two countries aren't great at the moment. The ROK started investing in a PRK industrial complex around 20 years ago but have discontinued that as the PRK were spending the revenue from the complex on their nuclear program.

    There's also a lot of propaganda. We sit in a cinema and a video presentation takes us through the event timeline after WWII that leads to the Korean War. The video shows representations of 3 tunnels dug by the PRK into the ROK and discovered by the ROK in the 1970s.

    We stop at a viewpoint that overlooks the border. A soldier comes on board the minibus to do a passport check. At the disembarkation point, there are viewers that allow a closer look at North Korea. I've taken some video as the PRK are broadcasting propaganda music (an antidote to KPop). I take a photo for a Peruvian couple and they reciprocate.

    Part of the tour includes walking down tunnel 3, which is our next port of call. This apparently will take us down 25 stories (which we then have to walk up) so it takes some time. A ramp takes us down, then there is a reasonably level walk through the tunnel. We're wearing safety helmets as the tunnel roof is quite low in parts. I bump my head once - general mirth from tourists coming the other way. Also, no phones or cameras allowed!

    I power back up the ramp, it's a good cardio workout. This buys me some time to walk around some pretty gardens in the vicinity.

    Our final DMZ stop is Dorasan station. Its of interest because it is the only INTERNATIONAL train station in the ROK. It is connected to the PRK train network but currently runs services to Seoul only. Should reunification take place, it will be part of the network that runs through Asia and Europe.

    For sponsorship reasons, the tour makes a trip to a Ginseng Centre on the way back. It's all hard sell now! I used to take Korean Ginseng tablets back in the 90s but I have no idea if they were effective. So I don't purchase and head for the exit, which means going through the shop. Big entrance, little exit.

    Finally some of us are dropped off at City Hall. We drive past a venue advertising the Fever Festival (broadcast by V Live). A huge queue of Kpop young folk are gathered. Its 2pm and I'm hungry 😩    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    Palace information
    5Lunch - Pork stir fry

    Changdeokgung Palace

    29 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    There are a number of royal accommodations in Seoul City. Changdeokgung Palace is the 2nd palace but took prominence when the main palace (Gyeongbokgung) was destroyed by fire (since rebuilt). It's considered by some to be the most picturesque palace (bit of a nothing statement).

    First I want to buy a travel card (known as T Money here). These cards can be used on buses and subways in most of the cities in the ROK. There are discounts for each trip, also means I don't have to communicate with bus drivers! I find a store that sells them and load about 33AUD onto it. Then it's off to the palace ...

    My travel info says that English guided tours are offered at 10:30. I'm at the ticket office by 10 and pay 3.30 for the ticket and wander around. It turns out the tour starts at 10:15 so I miss out on the first few minutes. It's been difficult to preserve these palaces what with fires and Japanese occupation. The grounds are extensive and are 60% made up of gardens (which I won't see today).

    It's a thing for girls to hire hanbok (traditional dress) and pose for endless photos. Some western girls do it as well - cultural appropriation anyone?

    I walk to the Bukchon village information centre. An English-speaking guide there takes me on a short tour explaining the nature of the housing there. As there's so much wood in the housing, fire has been a constant threat. I eat lunch at a nearby restaurant (see photo) which is pork stir fry with side dishes of seafood soup, black beans, spinach and kimchi.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaResenär
    1Live seafood in local Hongdae restaurant

    Seoul (Hongdae)

    28 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The flight into Seoul's Incheon Airport is on time. This airport has a reputation for efficiency, it certainly is quick for baggage claim and Customs. The immigration component, I'm in the "Foreigners" queue with mostly Chinese people. At the counter there's fingerprinting, retinal scanning and a quick rectal probe. Just kidding, the rectal probe is a Customs thing of course 😥

    I have prepaid for a 30 day data SIM card that I need to pick up from a booth in the arrivals hall. I find the booth, pick up the SIM and install it while sitting close by. A quick reboot and, presto, I'm connected. I didn't expect any problems as I'm now in Samsung Land and have brought late model Samsung gear with me.

    I take the 6002 bus and decamp at "Wedding Town". The hostel where I'm staying is in Hongdae which is an older part of Seoul comprising alleys. I find it difficult to orient myself walking around and Google Maps isn't as effective here as in Japan.

    I walk down to the park next to the river. The traffic is heavy along the bordering expressways. Much calmer in the park, which has an open air gym and plenty of dog walkers.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    1View from my hotel window ... seriously
    New Chitose Airport departure lounge photo 1New Chitose Airport departure lounge photo 2

    Leaving Japan ... temporarily

    28 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Big day's drive from Kushiro to Sapporo. My goal was to return the car by 2pm. Never going to happen, realistically 4pm perhaps. It's a 330 km drive and I manage to vacate my tiny room with all my luggage by 8am.

    Roundabout alert! Yes, I drive on one to do a right turn over the Nusamai Bridge. So unlike the Yeti and Loch Ness monster, they do exist in Japan. I approach it very gingerly, not knowing how the other drivers will negotiate it.

    It's a long and difficult day driving to Sapporo as I have to drive through the mountains pursued by a lunatic truck driver. Suffering "Duel" flashbacks. Spoiler alert: I don't die!

    Got the car back to the rental shop at 4 pm, so 2 hours late. Penalties apply - 2700 yen or a touch over 30AUD. Haul the megaluggage to Sapporo Station to buy a ticket to New Chitose Airport. Done and done!

    As the checkin for my Seoul flight is 7:10 am, I've booked a room in the Air Terminal Hotel at the airport for the night. No problem catching the train or finding the hotel from the airport train station, it's all well signed.

    The airport has quite a few stores selling fish, other seafood and meat. There's some free tasting where I once again meet my old enemy, the Wasabi Octopus. It's all fascinating and I spend so much time in these stores that when I'm looking to eat (around 8 pm) most of the eateries are closed. Manage to buy an Indian curry in the food court just before the store closes.

    The hotel supplies a free breakfast so I'm in there around 6:10. Then I check out and make the long walk to the International Terminal, which is almost deserted. I have checked in online so just have to pick up my boarding pass from counter B8. The queue for all counters at this point is me.

    Then at 7:30 its time to pass through airport security to go to the departure lounge. Since there's around 3 people going through, I score a pat down from security staff - who probably are bored - then walk into the mostly deserted lounge. The airport is more widely used domestically so not many people board the plane. Surreal.

    Anyway the plane departs at 8:55, ending my first chapter in Japan. Thank you, dear reader, for persisting 😁    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    Standard navigation screen in transit
    Main menu (90% of the English is here)Top level settings screenOther Settings say English in 2 places (but in Japanese)

    The Pioneer Navi

    27 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So I'd previously rented a car in Kawaguchiko, not the latest model of the Toyota Vitz. The car was a little gutless but its GPS was easy enough to use and configure to avoid toll roads. No issues there. I was able to pair my tablet with the GPS for Bluetooth multimedia.

    Then in Sapporo I rented a late model 4WD Toyota Vitz. Much better car to drive than the 1st car, but it had a different GPS: the Pioneer Navi. I don't know what "Navi" could be short for, I mean it is to good navigation what Tony Abbott is to good government. But the problems start before navigation ...

    The photos I've attached show the Navi screens. Note that it has been set up to use English, so the fact that there seems to be a lot of Japanese must be a trick of the light. I had to use Google Translate on some of these screens to work out WTF they meant. Route setting was particularly painful as I wanted to avoid toll roads and always had to edit the selected route to do so.

    Bluetooth pairing went only so far as calls, which was useless to me. Multimedia pairing proved elusive as the Navi presented me with multiple dialog boxes to choose Yes or No, all in Japanese of course. So no Bluetooth.

    And to the navigation. The 90 degree deviation driving back to Kushiro from the south east coast. The use of a service road that runs parallel to the Wakkanai freeway. The deviation onto B and C roads on the way to Kushiro. When I went to the Kushiro marshland the next day I used the Navi to navigate back to Kushiro. However when I saw signs for Nusamai Bridge (2 minutes from my hotel) I ignored the Navi's entreaties to make turns. And that went well.

    What really annoyed me is how the Navi had the last laugh. On the way to Sapporo on route 274, I see a sign to turn left for Sapporo but the Navi wants me to go straight ahead. I take the left turn, get held up by roadworks, drive on, see a sign saying that there is no route to Sapporo due to the closure of a crucial mountain road, do a U-turn, get held up for even longer by the same roadworks as before and then take the Navi's requested route. Humble pie indeed.

    The final contribution from the Navi came later in the day in Sapporo when it almost took me onto a (clogged) expressway. I had to edit the route on the fly and was fortunately able to bail out 170 metres down the road before the expressway entrance. Huge sigh of relief when I pulled into the Toyota rental shop.

    Where A.I should take us in the future is in the ability to inflict some sort of pain on crap software. So it knows we're unhappy and tries to do a better job next time. Ah, you can dream ☹    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    Tancho (red headed crane) at Japanese Crane Reserve
    Kushiro City Marsh ObservatoryObservatory walking trailsLooking east over the marsh from walking trail1Kottaro viewpoint over the marsh1Stairway up at Kottaro viewpoint

    Kushiro Marsh

    26 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The Japanese Crane Reserve is a short drive west from the hotel. It costs around 5AUD admission and contains maybe 10 pairs of cranes. Not all are Tancho (red headed). These are the rarest that are difficult to see in the wild. Winter is the best time to see them. There are a pair of sea eagles flying around as well.

    It's around 13 km to the Marsh Observatory. It costs 5 AUD to view the exhibits, not worth the money so it's more of a donation. I spend much time on the walking trails (3rd photo), especially the 910m circuit from Aosagi square. The marsh is what we would call wetlands and thankfully has NO MOSSIES. In fact there's no particularly annoying insects at all, how Japanese!

    It's a very sunny day so I eat my lunch in the car. I then drive clockwise around the marsh to the Kottaro viewpoint (last 2 photos). I climb the stairs to reach the top viewpoint - took no photos there so it might have been wasted effort.

    Proceeding on, the road turns to unpaved gravel. Just what I need on my 2nd last day of driving! Thankfully route 391 isn't too far away so I drive back to Kushiro from the east.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    Carpark at Lake Mashu Observation Viewpoint 3
    Glimpse of Lake Mashu from Observation Viewpoint 11Where you goin' fella?Hot pools in the sand, Sunayu, Lake Kussharo3My hot spring bathing experience, Wakoto, Lake KussharoView of Lake Akan from Akanko Onsen

    Lake Mashu and Akan National Park

    25 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I'm staying in a hotel in Kushiro which is around 70 km south west of Teshikaga. However I plan to visit no less than THREE (count 'em) lakes on the way by a circuitous route so it will take most of the day to reach Kushiro.

    The first lake is Mashu which isn't that far away north on route 52. It's not possible to get close to the lake so I will drive to 2 observation viewpoints. It costs 500 yen to park at the first viewpoint (#3) and, once again, there is no view due to pervasive fog (1st photo is of car park). However there is a tax free shop and tour buses even at this relatively early time so who cares about the views? I buy a couple of T shirts anyway.

    I drive then to viewpoint #1 which has free parking, no shop and therefore no crowd. The fog lifts a little when I walk to the viewpoint so I'm able to shoot a small video and take a couple of photos. Temporary reprieve I'm afraid as the fog returns with a vengeance.

    These viewpoints are quite high so the road drops away as I continue on. A tour bus slows down to a stop in front of me on the road. There's a red fox jogging along the side of the road. I see a few of these as roadkill so I hope this one takes care!

    The road through to the next lake (Kussharo) takes me to Kawayu Onsen town. The tourist info place there has good material for the lakes I want to see. There's a foot spa in the park opposite tourist information but I'm too pressed for time to partake.

    I drive through to Sunayu on the eastern shore of Lake Kussharo. The smell of sulphur was quite strong in the car coming through. The shoreline is on a hot spring so it's possible to dig your feet into the coarse sand and have a foot spa. This is why you wear thongs 😏. Anyway the (relatively) larger pools are soothing. A smaller pool is way too hot so I retreat.

    The next port of call is Wakoto peninsula which sticks out from the southern shore of the same lake. On the wind protected side the lake is quite calm and serene. On the other side it is choppy. There is an open air hot spring (mixed bathing, swimwear optional) next to the lake on the wind protected side. I'm wearing board shorts but find there's a nude German already in the water. He is travelling for 3 months with his Tokyo-born wife and their daughter who are only spectating here. We have a good chat whilst soaking up the minerals in the spring. Not sure how clean the water is, though. He heads to the lake proper to rinse off and I do the same (water's cold though). After that I change back, buy a bottle of coke and sit on a bench in the sun with my swimwear draped over the bench.

    The way through to Lake Akan takes me back to Teshikaga where I enjoy lunch in a park nearby Mashu Onsen. There's few people in the park as the shop is back at the onsen car park. Then I drive through to Akanko Onsen town and park. The town is very touristy with rows of souvenir shops selling mass-produced "authentic" artifacts. Still, it has good views of the lake so I take some photos from the jetty.

    The day has got away from me (yes, again) so I must make tracks for Kushiro. On the way there my Pioneer Navi car GPS prepares a special "surprise" for me by taking me off the road signed "Kushiro" then putting me on a B road, then a C road on the way through. What's more, a car follows me on both roads, must have the same car GPS, I feel your pain 🤑

    Eventually we're back on track and make it to the Century Castle Hotel in Kushiro. It is next to the river so I take some night time photos, none attached here though.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    My digs
    City view across the river from the hotelNiku 18 meat restaurant1My MegaMeatMealView from the Nusamai BridgeView looking east from the Nusamai Bridge

    Kushiro at night

    25 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Because I haven't posted many night time photos, I'll do a special post for Kushiro. My hotel is located on the south bank of the Kushiro river and is between two bridges. The closest bridge is the Nusamai bridge which is known for its views. Most of the photos were taken in this vicinity.

    After checking in to the hotel I find my room is more suitable for a hobbit than a human. Tiny shower; I'm thin and I still struggled to find enough space to wash myself. Tiny bathroom; had to dry myself in the room. Tiny fridge; a small carton of milk had to sit on its side to fit.

    Anyway there's an inhouse Chinese restaurant so maybe that will make up for the room. Well no, it's apparently fully booked so they cannot fit in ONE PERSON. I walk outside to take some photos and walk past the restaurant. Looking at the diners, I try to banish the thought "I hope you choke" to the back of my brain ☹

    So I check online for close by restaurants as I've had enough driving for the day. Niku 18 is a meat restaurant not too far from Nusamai Bridge. This gives me a chance to admire the views from the bridge.

    After arriving at the restaurant (see photo) I order the Niku 18 special, which shall hereafter be known as MegaMeatMeal. It comprises pork, chicken and beef, along with chips. The attached photo doesn't do it justice as the pork obscures 2 pieces of beef. I eat as much as I can but can't finish it.

    After I pay, the staff farewell me and pray that I don't have cardiac arrest from all that meat on my way home. I take a couple more photos from the bridge before turning in.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    1Oshinkoshin Falls
    1View of Utoro from route 334Furepe FallsMountain view from the Shiretoko 5 lakes boardwalkAutumn colours from the Shiretoko 5 lakes boardwalkSunset at my Mashu hotel (my car in the foreground)

    Shiretoko National Park

    24 september 2017, Japan ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    It's a long day driving from Wakkanai to Teshikaga. Much of it is close to the Hokkaido eastern coastline so I'm able to appreciate the scenery. I take a detour to Kitami which turns out to be a complete waste of time.

    It tends to start gradually getting dark in Hokkaido after 3 pm so I'm keen to push on. It starts to drizzle and is quite dark when I arrive in Teshikaga. My hotel is around 3 km out of town and is technically Mashu but I manage to find it.

    The thing about Teshikaga is that it is quite central to the sights I want to see before I fly out. The first of these is Shiretoko National Park which is on an eastern peninsula.

    The way through passes Oshinkoshin Falls, so I stop and take the obligatory photos, sparing you the selfie I took. Then I drive through Utoro on route 334 before heading to the Shiretoko Visitor Centre. There is a track through to Furepe Falls that I take. I pass a notice board that has maps as well as a "bear calendar", which records September bear sightings. The Hokkaido brown bear is believed to be an ancestor of the grizzly bear so it's best to avoid them! Similar strategies to hiking in Canada, bear bells and plenty of noise. Being a Sunday with plenty of hikers around I think I'll be OK.

    I drive through to the Shiretoko 5 lakes entry and stroll on the boardwalk. Unfortunately half the boardwalk is closed for maintenance but I still take some decent photos. That's more than can be said for my drive up to Shiretoko Pass. It's supposed to be an extremely scenic viewpoint but pervasive fog (my 2nd nemesis after the Wasabi Octopus) ruins that.

    I drive back to the hotel at Mashu and stretch my legs, walking past the local golf course. No bears here either. It's around sunset when I return to the hotel, affording me a final photo.    Läs mer

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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Resenär
    Leaving Wakkanai port
    1Roiling clouds over Mt Rishiri as we near Rishiri islandOdishomari town, biggest town on Rishiri island1What, are you people STILL following? (Life on the rocks)Mt Rishiri from the roadAlmost back at Odishomari town (hooray!)

    Rishiri Island

    22 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Since the weather's been so great, why not hit the water and check out one of the outlying islands? The Heartland Ferry company runs ferries 3 times a day to Rishiri and Rebun islands. Although I could take the car, it is a prohibitively expensive round trip to do that so the car has the day off. As it is, its around 50 AUD for the return trip to Rishiri island as a passenger.

    It's an early start as I want to take the first ferry of the day at 7:15. I have the choice of 1st class, 2nd class and no class (economy). Naturally I choose the last option as comfort and luxury are wasted on me (and I'm also tight btw).

    Like all ferry trips, there's interesting views of the port of departure, interesting views of the port of arrival and a lot of boredom in between. I look in vain for whales, dolphins, really just anything in the water but not much is happening. Just the odd whiff of tobacco from the smoking section 😝

    We arrive at Odishomari ferry terminal a bit after 9. The weather looks decent on the island, it might be a good hiking day. The ferry I was on continues on to Rebun Island but that's too far afield for me today.

    Rishiri island is around 60 km in circumference. Mt Rishiri sits seething in the middle of the island, an active volcano around 1700 metres high. It dominates all views of the island interior, and is visible from much of the North Hokkaido coastline.

    I decide to take the Soya bus to Kushtugata, which is 12-13 km from the ferry terminal. Owing to my inexperience with Japanese buses (what with having a car and all) a young lady has to help me out paying the fare (750 yen or just under 9 AUD) when I exit the bus. My idea is to walk back to the ferry terminal along the coastline and catch the 2:35 pm ferry back to Wakkanai.

    As it turns out, 13 km is a long way. The day is a bit warmer than I would like, not too much sea breeze coming through so I eat my lunch on some rocks at the beach (cue 4th photo). I'm able to stretch out and rest in the cool air for a few minutes, but unfortunately I still have over 7 km to walk and time is getting shorter.

    Eventually I make it back to the ferry terminal. Plenty of time up my sleeve. The ferry pulls in around 2:10 and what seems to be a thousand people disembark. Yet there's a queue of around 40 people standing by to get on. Why do this, everyone will get a seat! What's worse is that I'm IN the queue, regretting my decision as my tired feet yammer for a break.

    Fortunately I'm able to rest up in the 105 minutes or so it takes to return to Wakkanai. There are fewer people on board than when I came over, at least in economy. Still are some smokers doggedly pursuing their dreams of an early death 😜

    We disembark from Wakkanai and go our separate ways. A few people are in front of me as we walk back into the town. I hear the man in front of me exclaim, then I see what he sees: there's a STAG munching on vegetation in a car park. It's very close to the footpath we're on, so a little disconcerting 😯    Läs mer

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