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Tim In Japan

Tim In Japan

Former IT office worker, now liberated to chase a dream! Läs mer🇦🇺Wooloowin
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    • Tim In JapanResenärSouth Korea
      1The huddled masses

      Seoul Fireworks Night

      30 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      Each year around a million Seoul residents gather to watch fireworks from Yeouinaru Park. There are numerous family-oriented activities that run during the day but after 7pm the fireworks are the main draw. Sort of like Riverfire without the aircraft ...

      I take the subway to Gongdeok, where I change lines for the line going to Yeouinaru Park (2 stops). I'm standing at the end of the platform to maximize my chances. The first train comes and ... it's full, or near enough so I don't get on board. The 2nd train comes and ... it's the same as the first. I sense a pattern.

      So I exit the station and walk to the Mapo Bridge, as do many, many others. Many people set up on both sides of the bridge to watch the fireworks. I stand behind the pram of a family so I have a good view (discounting the tree that's in the way!)

      Take some photos and the first session of fireworks are done. I don't stay for the next set, but it's very slow trying to push through the crowd. Once I'm off the bridge it's much easier going. Easy to take trains now!      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärSouth Korea
      The Bell of Peace at Imjingak Peace Park
      Reunification monument at Imjingak Peace ParkBrotherhood monument at Imjingak Peace ParkThe 3rd tunnel monumentNorth Korea!Not a selfie for a change ... North Korean backdrop

      The DMZ

      30 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      I'll admit that this is the number 1 reason I've come to the ROK. It costs 46,000 won (51 AUD) for a half day tour but it's worth it. I'm picked up at 8:30 by Seoul City Tours and pay the tour guide Gemma (her Western name, she's a local).

      We pick up more people so around 10 of us are travelling in a minibus. We all bring passports to make sure no spies are on board. I try to match my expression to my passport photo, but that scowling hurts my face if I do it for too long ☹

      The first stop is the Imjingak Peace Park. It has a pretty park, souvenir shops of course and some views. I think we have around 25 minutes here, Gemma keeps us to a tight schedule. There are a number of monuments and statues here, see first 3 photos.

      What comes through from the day is the desire for reunification within the ROK. However, relations between the two countries aren't great at the moment. The ROK started investing in a PRK industrial complex around 20 years ago but have discontinued that as the PRK were spending the revenue from the complex on their nuclear program.

      There's also a lot of propaganda. We sit in a cinema and a video presentation takes us through the event timeline after WWII that leads to the Korean War. The video shows representations of 3 tunnels dug by the PRK into the ROK and discovered by the ROK in the 1970s.

      We stop at a viewpoint that overlooks the border. A soldier comes on board the minibus to do a passport check. At the disembarkation point, there are viewers that allow a closer look at North Korea. I've taken some video as the PRK are broadcasting propaganda music (an antidote to KPop). I take a photo for a Peruvian couple and they reciprocate.

      Part of the tour includes walking down tunnel 3, which is our next port of call. This apparently will take us down 25 stories (which we then have to walk up) so it takes some time. A ramp takes us down, then there is a reasonably level walk through the tunnel. We're wearing safety helmets as the tunnel roof is quite low in parts. I bump my head once - general mirth from tourists coming the other way. Also, no phones or cameras allowed!

      I power back up the ramp, it's a good cardio workout. This buys me some time to walk around some pretty gardens in the vicinity.

      Our final DMZ stop is Dorasan station. Its of interest because it is the only INTERNATIONAL train station in the ROK. It is connected to the PRK train network but currently runs services to Seoul only. Should reunification take place, it will be part of the network that runs through Asia and Europe.

      For sponsorship reasons, the tour makes a trip to a Ginseng Centre on the way back. It's all hard sell now! I used to take Korean Ginseng tablets back in the 90s but I have no idea if they were effective. So I don't purchase and head for the exit, which means going through the shop. Big entrance, little exit.

      Finally some of us are dropped off at City Hall. We drive past a venue advertising the Fever Festival (broadcast by V Live). A huge queue of Kpop young folk are gathered. Its 2pm and I'm hungry 😩      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärSouth Korea
      Palace information
      5Lunch - Pork stir fry

      Changdeokgung Palace

      29 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      There are a number of royal accommodations in Seoul City. Changdeokgung Palace is the 2nd palace but took prominence when the main palace (Gyeongbokgung) was destroyed by fire (since rebuilt). It's considered by some to be the most picturesque palace (bit of a nothing statement).

      First I want to buy a travel card (known as T Money here). These cards can be used on buses and subways in most of the cities in the ROK. There are discounts for each trip, also means I don't have to communicate with bus drivers! I find a store that sells them and load about 33AUD onto it. Then it's off to the palace ...

      My travel info says that English guided tours are offered at 10:30. I'm at the ticket office by 10 and pay 3.30 for the ticket and wander around. It turns out the tour starts at 10:15 so I miss out on the first few minutes. It's been difficult to preserve these palaces what with fires and Japanese occupation. The grounds are extensive and are 60% made up of gardens (which I won't see today).

      It's a thing for girls to hire hanbok (traditional dress) and pose for endless photos. Some western girls do it as well - cultural appropriation anyone?

      I walk to the Bukchon village information centre. An English-speaking guide there takes me on a short tour explaining the nature of the housing there. As there's so much wood in the housing, fire has been a constant threat. I eat lunch at a nearby restaurant (see photo) which is pork stir fry with side dishes of seafood soup, black beans, spinach and kimchi.      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärSouth Korea
      1Live seafood in local Hongdae restaurant

      Seoul (Hongdae)

      28 september 2017, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      The flight into Seoul's Incheon Airport is on time. This airport has a reputation for efficiency, it certainly is quick for baggage claim and Customs. The immigration component, I'm in the "Foreigners" queue with mostly Chinese people. At the counter there's fingerprinting, retinal scanning and a quick rectal probe. Just kidding, the rectal probe is a Customs thing of course 😥

      I have prepaid for a 30 day data SIM card that I need to pick up from a booth in the arrivals hall. I find the booth, pick up the SIM and install it while sitting close by. A quick reboot and, presto, I'm connected. I didn't expect any problems as I'm now in Samsung Land and have brought late model Samsung gear with me.

      I take the 6002 bus and decamp at "Wedding Town". The hostel where I'm staying is in Hongdae which is an older part of Seoul comprising alleys. I find it difficult to orient myself walking around and Google Maps isn't as effective here as in Japan.

      I walk down to the park next to the river. The traffic is heavy along the bordering expressways. Much calmer in the park, which has an open air gym and plenty of dog walkers.      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärJapan 1
      1View from my hotel window ... seriously
      New Chitose Airport departure lounge photo 1New Chitose Airport departure lounge photo 2

      Leaving Japan ... temporarily

      28 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Big day's drive from Kushiro to Sapporo. My goal was to return the car by 2pm. Never going to happen, realistically 4pm perhaps. It's a 330 km drive and I manage to vacate my tiny room with all my luggage by 8am.

      Roundabout alert! Yes, I drive on one to do a right turn over the Nusamai Bridge. So unlike the Yeti and Loch Ness monster, they do exist in Japan. I approach it very gingerly, not knowing how the other drivers will negotiate it.

      It's a long and difficult day driving to Sapporo as I have to drive through the mountains pursued by a lunatic truck driver. Suffering "Duel" flashbacks. Spoiler alert: I don't die!

      Got the car back to the rental shop at 4 pm, so 2 hours late. Penalties apply - 2700 yen or a touch over 30AUD. Haul the megaluggage to Sapporo Station to buy a ticket to New Chitose Airport. Done and done!

      As the checkin for my Seoul flight is 7:10 am, I've booked a room in the Air Terminal Hotel at the airport for the night. No problem catching the train or finding the hotel from the airport train station, it's all well signed.

      The airport has quite a few stores selling fish, other seafood and meat. There's some free tasting where I once again meet my old enemy, the Wasabi Octopus. It's all fascinating and I spend so much time in these stores that when I'm looking to eat (around 8 pm) most of the eateries are closed. Manage to buy an Indian curry in the food court just before the store closes.

      The hotel supplies a free breakfast so I'm in there around 6:10. Then I check out and make the long walk to the International Terminal, which is almost deserted. I have checked in online so just have to pick up my boarding pass from counter B8. The queue for all counters at this point is me.

      Then at 7:30 its time to pass through airport security to go to the departure lounge. Since there's around 3 people going through, I score a pat down from security staff - who probably are bored - then walk into the mostly deserted lounge. The airport is more widely used domestically so not many people board the plane. Surreal.

      Anyway the plane departs at 8:55, ending my first chapter in Japan. Thank you, dear reader, for persisting 😁      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärJapan 1
      Standard navigation screen in transit
      Main menu (90% of the English is here)Top level settings screenOther Settings say English in 2 places (but in Japanese)

      The Pioneer Navi

      27 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      So I'd previously rented a car in Kawaguchiko, not the latest model of the Toyota Vitz. The car was a little gutless but its GPS was easy enough to use and configure to avoid toll roads. No issues there. I was able to pair my tablet with the GPS for Bluetooth multimedia.

      Then in Sapporo I rented a late model 4WD Toyota Vitz. Much better car to drive than the 1st car, but it had a different GPS: the Pioneer Navi. I don't know what "Navi" could be short for, I mean it is to good navigation what Tony Abbott is to good government. But the problems start before navigation ...

      The photos I've attached show the Navi screens. Note that it has been set up to use English, so the fact that there seems to be a lot of Japanese must be a trick of the light. I had to use Google Translate on some of these screens to work out WTF they meant. Route setting was particularly painful as I wanted to avoid toll roads and always had to edit the selected route to do so.

      Bluetooth pairing went only so far as calls, which was useless to me. Multimedia pairing proved elusive as the Navi presented me with multiple dialog boxes to choose Yes or No, all in Japanese of course. So no Bluetooth.

      And to the navigation. The 90 degree deviation driving back to Kushiro from the south east coast. The use of a service road that runs parallel to the Wakkanai freeway. The deviation onto B and C roads on the way to Kushiro. When I went to the Kushiro marshland the next day I used the Navi to navigate back to Kushiro. However when I saw signs for Nusamai Bridge (2 minutes from my hotel) I ignored the Navi's entreaties to make turns. And that went well.

      What really annoyed me is how the Navi had the last laugh. On the way to Sapporo on route 274, I see a sign to turn left for Sapporo but the Navi wants me to go straight ahead. I take the left turn, get held up by roadworks, drive on, see a sign saying that there is no route to Sapporo due to the closure of a crucial mountain road, do a U-turn, get held up for even longer by the same roadworks as before and then take the Navi's requested route. Humble pie indeed.

      The final contribution from the Navi came later in the day in Sapporo when it almost took me onto a (clogged) expressway. I had to edit the route on the fly and was fortunately able to bail out 170 metres down the road before the expressway entrance. Huge sigh of relief when I pulled into the Toyota rental shop.

      Where A.I should take us in the future is in the ability to inflict some sort of pain on crap software. So it knows we're unhappy and tries to do a better job next time. Ah, you can dream ☹      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärJapan 1
      Tancho (red headed crane) at Japanese Crane Reserve
      Kushiro City Marsh ObservatoryObservatory walking trailsLooking east over the marsh from walking trail1Kottaro viewpoint over the marsh1Stairway up at Kottaro viewpoint

      Kushiro Marsh

      26 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      The Japanese Crane Reserve is a short drive west from the hotel. It costs around 5AUD admission and contains maybe 10 pairs of cranes. Not all are Tancho (red headed). These are the rarest that are difficult to see in the wild. Winter is the best time to see them. There are a pair of sea eagles flying around as well.

      It's around 13 km to the Marsh Observatory. It costs 5 AUD to view the exhibits, not worth the money so it's more of a donation. I spend much time on the walking trails (3rd photo), especially the 910m circuit from Aosagi square. The marsh is what we would call wetlands and thankfully has NO MOSSIES. In fact there's no particularly annoying insects at all, how Japanese!

      It's a very sunny day so I eat my lunch in the car. I then drive clockwise around the marsh to the Kottaro viewpoint (last 2 photos). I climb the stairs to reach the top viewpoint - took no photos there so it might have been wasted effort.

      Proceeding on, the road turns to unpaved gravel. Just what I need on my 2nd last day of driving! Thankfully route 391 isn't too far away so I drive back to Kushiro from the east.      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärJapan 1
      Carpark at Lake Mashu Observation Viewpoint 3
      Glimpse of Lake Mashu from Observation Viewpoint 11Where you goin' fella?Hot pools in the sand, Sunayu, Lake Kussharo3My hot spring bathing experience, Wakoto, Lake KussharoView of Lake Akan from Akanko Onsen

      Lake Mashu and Akan National Park

      25 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      I'm staying in a hotel in Kushiro which is around 70 km south west of Teshikaga. However I plan to visit no less than THREE (count 'em) lakes on the way by a circuitous route so it will take most of the day to reach Kushiro.

      The first lake is Mashu which isn't that far away north on route 52. It's not possible to get close to the lake so I will drive to 2 observation viewpoints. It costs 500 yen to park at the first viewpoint (#3) and, once again, there is no view due to pervasive fog (1st photo is of car park). However there is a tax free shop and tour buses even at this relatively early time so who cares about the views? I buy a couple of T shirts anyway.

      I drive then to viewpoint #1 which has free parking, no shop and therefore no crowd. The fog lifts a little when I walk to the viewpoint so I'm able to shoot a small video and take a couple of photos. Temporary reprieve I'm afraid as the fog returns with a vengeance.

      These viewpoints are quite high so the road drops away as I continue on. A tour bus slows down to a stop in front of me on the road. There's a red fox jogging along the side of the road. I see a few of these as roadkill so I hope this one takes care!

      The road through to the next lake (Kussharo) takes me to Kawayu Onsen town. The tourist info place there has good material for the lakes I want to see. There's a foot spa in the park opposite tourist information but I'm too pressed for time to partake.

      I drive through to Sunayu on the eastern shore of Lake Kussharo. The smell of sulphur was quite strong in the car coming through. The shoreline is on a hot spring so it's possible to dig your feet into the coarse sand and have a foot spa. This is why you wear thongs 😏. Anyway the (relatively) larger pools are soothing. A smaller pool is way too hot so I retreat.

      The next port of call is Wakoto peninsula which sticks out from the southern shore of the same lake. On the wind protected side the lake is quite calm and serene. On the other side it is choppy. There is an open air hot spring (mixed bathing, swimwear optional) next to the lake on the wind protected side. I'm wearing board shorts but find there's a nude German already in the water. He is travelling for 3 months with his Tokyo-born wife and their daughter who are only spectating here. We have a good chat whilst soaking up the minerals in the spring. Not sure how clean the water is, though. He heads to the lake proper to rinse off and I do the same (water's cold though). After that I change back, buy a bottle of coke and sit on a bench in the sun with my swimwear draped over the bench.

      The way through to Lake Akan takes me back to Teshikaga where I enjoy lunch in a park nearby Mashu Onsen. There's few people in the park as the shop is back at the onsen car park. Then I drive through to Akanko Onsen town and park. The town is very touristy with rows of souvenir shops selling mass-produced "authentic" artifacts. Still, it has good views of the lake so I take some photos from the jetty.

      The day has got away from me (yes, again) so I must make tracks for Kushiro. On the way there my Pioneer Navi car GPS prepares a special "surprise" for me by taking me off the road signed "Kushiro" then putting me on a B road, then a C road on the way through. What's more, a car follows me on both roads, must have the same car GPS, I feel your pain 🤑

      Eventually we're back on track and make it to the Century Castle Hotel in Kushiro. It is next to the river so I take some night time photos, none attached here though.      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärJapan 1
      My digs
      City view across the river from the hotelNiku 18 meat restaurant1My MegaMeatMealView from the Nusamai BridgeView looking east from the Nusamai Bridge

      Kushiro at night

      25 september 2017, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Because I haven't posted many night time photos, I'll do a special post for Kushiro. My hotel is located on the south bank of the Kushiro river and is between two bridges. The closest bridge is the Nusamai bridge which is known for its views. Most of the photos were taken in this vicinity.

      After checking in to the hotel I find my room is more suitable for a hobbit than a human. Tiny shower; I'm thin and I still struggled to find enough space to wash myself. Tiny bathroom; had to dry myself in the room. Tiny fridge; a small carton of milk had to sit on its side to fit.

      Anyway there's an inhouse Chinese restaurant so maybe that will make up for the room. Well no, it's apparently fully booked so they cannot fit in ONE PERSON. I walk outside to take some photos and walk past the restaurant. Looking at the diners, I try to banish the thought "I hope you choke" to the back of my brain ☹

      So I check online for close by restaurants as I've had enough driving for the day. Niku 18 is a meat restaurant not too far from Nusamai Bridge. This gives me a chance to admire the views from the bridge.

      After arriving at the restaurant (see photo) I order the Niku 18 special, which shall hereafter be known as MegaMeatMeal. It comprises pork, chicken and beef, along with chips. The attached photo doesn't do it justice as the pork obscures 2 pieces of beef. I eat as much as I can but can't finish it.

      After I pay, the staff farewell me and pray that I don't have cardiac arrest from all that meat on my way home. I take a couple more photos from the bridge before turning in.      Läs mer

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    • Tim In JapanResenärJapan 1
      1Oshinkoshin Falls
      1View of Utoro from route 334Furepe FallsMountain view from the Shiretoko 5 lakes boardwalkAutumn colours from the Shiretoko 5 lakes boardwalkSunset at my Mashu hotel (my car in the foreground)

      Shiretoko National Park

      24 september 2017, Japan ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

      It's a long day driving from Wakkanai to Teshikaga. Much of it is close to the Hokkaido eastern coastline so I'm able to appreciate the scenery. I take a detour to Kitami which turns out to be a complete waste of time.

      It tends to start gradually getting dark in Hokkaido after 3 pm so I'm keen to push on. It starts to drizzle and is quite dark when I arrive in Teshikaga. My hotel is around 3 km out of town and is technically Mashu but I manage to find it.

      The thing about Teshikaga is that it is quite central to the sights I want to see before I fly out. The first of these is Shiretoko National Park which is on an eastern peninsula.

      The way through passes Oshinkoshin Falls, so I stop and take the obligatory photos, sparing you the selfie I took. Then I drive through Utoro on route 334 before heading to the Shiretoko Visitor Centre. There is a track through to Furepe Falls that I take. I pass a notice board that has maps as well as a "bear calendar", which records September bear sightings. The Hokkaido brown bear is believed to be an ancestor of the grizzly bear so it's best to avoid them! Similar strategies to hiking in Canada, bear bells and plenty of noise. Being a Sunday with plenty of hikers around I think I'll be OK.

      I drive through to the Shiretoko 5 lakes entry and stroll on the boardwalk. Unfortunately half the boardwalk is closed for maintenance but I still take some decent photos. That's more than can be said for my drive up to Shiretoko Pass. It's supposed to be an extremely scenic viewpoint but pervasive fog (my 2nd nemesis after the Wasabi Octopus) ruins that.

      I drive back to the hotel at Mashu and stretch my legs, walking past the local golf course. No bears here either. It's around sunset when I return to the hotel, affording me a final photo.      Läs mer

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