Day 4 - Sossuvlei dunes to Swakopmud

Drive: 406km / from start 2000km

With a new record packing time (barely impacted by the tent-stuck-in-zipper-drama) we were at the gate of the Sossuvlei park by 6.25am, coffee and rusks in hand.

Cruizing into the night, behind a long line of little red lights, with the long awaited dunes slowly taking shape ahead and the first colors of the rising sun behind the mountains in the back.

As the sky started to become a beautiful canvas of orange, we arrived at the end of the road. Hopped into a Safari jeep that lead us to the dunes through some deep sand tracks.

With many warm layers including Leo's fur, we comfortably rode through the crispy morning temperatures and quickly arrived at the foot of the dunes, and the 2 famous valleys: Sossuvlei and Deadvlei. Time to hike up the biggest red dunes of them all: Big Daddy.

Slowly climbing on the ridge of that 325m high dune, we marvelled at the beauty of the landscape unfolding in front of us. The timid sunlight descending on the bright red dunes contrasting with the clear blue skies was truly a sight for sore eyes. Sharing a pure moment of contemplation holding each other watching the sunrise.

Step by step reaching the summit, following into the steps of fellow travelers, Lars's cool Cat(erpillar) prints and unknown little paws (see pictures).

Halfway through, the sun started heating up. To say that Leo may have overdone it, with her choice of 5 layers, would be an understatement. Dragging her fur like a dead sheep while Lars was laughing out loud, we finally made it to the top.

A vision carved in our memories forever. With the red dunes spreading for kilometers in every direction, their fifty shades of orange and red sand and at our feet the white dried salt pan of Deadvlei.

After a moment taking it all in, we decided to run down the steep slope of the dune. Lars launched first and Leo followed for a genuine playful free fall! At the bottom, and after removing a kilo of sand from each shoe, we discovered the infamous trees of the dead valley. Such a incredible sight to see these petrified trees on the salt flats, which looked like man-made pavement (see pictures). Wandering around, thinking about the once-in-every-20-years-moment of grace when the valley comes to life and flowers start to bloom on the desolated land. (A must google search).

Full of beautiful images we started heading back to our car. A classic bowl of granola for energy and we were good to go onto the next adventure!

Next stop Swakopmud, with a quick pit stop in Solitaire, a mere 142km away from Sossuvlei. No better name could have been given to that fun little settlement of 100 souls. For the old timer car scrapyard, the checky squirrels and the massive game meat sandwiches, was everything we needed to be happy.

During the next 264Km to Swakopmud, we crossed all the imaginable landscapes. The moon landing hills, a dark stone valley, a green canyon pass to finally cross a long desolated patch. A total land of nothingness with the occasional tyres on the side of the road and accompanying stranded fellow overlander. It was only with the far sighting of the white dunes that we noticed we were getting so close to the coast!

Entering an industrial no man's land, with a heavy sandy fog, we felt a real post apocalyptic vibe to the area.

Driving alongside the Walvis bay coast, tucked between an agitated sea, many new real estate developments and the massive white dunes we finally made it to Swakopmud where we had indulged in a dust free hotel night.

A fabulous shower later we looked fresh as ever for an evening of diving into this odd little German town. Starting with an obligatory stop at a Brauhaus for a beer, and finishing with a fish meal at the wobbly jetty restaurant. What a day !Read more