Day 5 - Swakopmud to Brandberg Mountains

Drive: 228km / from start: 2229km

A lazy morning in the guest house where we took time to research our next journey. After 4 days of intense driving, we decided we needed to rest a little and set up camp for a few days. But Swakopmud, with it's constant mist and cold weather, was not going to cut it.

We still wanted to explore this strange German town. Strolling around to run a couple of errands and grab a decent flat white.

There and then we made a new plan, we have 5 days until our next booking in Etosha National Park: plenty of time to go explore the Damaraland region.

First step, a 2 hour drive towards the Brandberg Mountains, once more driving through the emptiness. Along the coast, the massive waves crashing on shipwrecks and oddly built concrete and sand villages. Inland the longest and straightest gravel road, it's occasional "work in progress" signs and builders camps. Closest to our destination we encountered a few informal shops of local Damaraland people selling gems and metal sculptures.

Finally arriving at the White Lady Lodge, on the bed of the dried up river, we were surprised by the bright green bushes, massive rock formation and of course the scorching heat. What a delight to discover this little oasis in the desert, built at the bottom of a rocky hill, with lush grass, healthy olive trees and many cacti species. And best of all, a chilly pool! A perfect set up (despite the mostly french clientele :) !)

Setting up in our massive "deluxe camp", with it's kitchen, closed bathroom and shower (see pictures), we still fiddled around for a while trying to figure out the best spot: to be out of the sun in the afternoon and behind the trees for the sunrise. In the end deciding to drive back to the camp, hop in the pool and chill there for the sunset. Realizing then that we were going to be driving our car anyway so the position didn't matter that much after all !

Climbing on the rocks to witness a dramatic sunset, all rays of light, patches of cloud and massive red sun. What a gift.
Time to head back to camp for dinner, menu of the night: lamb steak à la Lars (understand grilled in the braai and finished off with butter, garlic and rosemary in a pan) with corn and a carrot and cumin salad. Finishing the evening, with the light of the fire and the noisy bird conversations.Read more