We decided to write a little blog of our journey through Namibia & Botswana. Enjoying the daily team journalling and record of this incredible adventure. Read more
  • 19footprints
  • 3countries
  • 23days
  • 204photos
  • 17videos
  • 6.8kkilometers
  • 4.9kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Day 1 - Cape Town to Ais Ais

    August 5, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Drive 800km
    Accommodation: Ais Ais NWR Camp site

    Our 22 day Honeymoon road trip through Namibia and Botswana was not planned overnight. A trip we both dreamt for a long time, we wanted to live this experience to the fullest. With a mix of wild, nature, adventure and luxury treats, this was definitely going to be a trip to remember.

    It started with weeks of preparation as we needed to get all our camping equipment, car 4x4 gear, stock up on food and drinks and book all the spots in advance. On Friday evening we packed and the car and finally hit the road of Saturday 5th of August.

    We left the city in the early morning surrounded by a thick mist. After 2.5 hours of driving through the dark, misty roads the sun showed itself going up the Citrusdal pass, where we stopped for a first sunny breakfast. The morning continued with car games and wild flower gazing.

    We planned a big drive to spend our first night in Namibia. Driving through the little towns of the Western and Northern Cape, and after a last stop in Springbok to stock up on some last supplies, we made it to the border. A smooth and friendly control later, we were back on the road. Very soon we swapped the tar highway for the Namibian gravel road. We drove through desolate, Mars-looking landscapes, until we finally arrived in Ais Ais on the bed of the Fish River Canyon. The camp is mostly visited by hikers embarking on a 5 day/90km trail, a journey we couldn’t fit into our trip this time but definitely plan on returning to.

    After setting up camp, we rewarded ourselves with a fresh beer, juicy steak, its minute beurre maître d'hôtel and a fine little whisky by the fire. Holidays have started!
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  • Day 2

    Day 2 - Ais Ais to Aus

    August 6, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Drive: 333km

    We woke up early by what we thought were guys shouting very loud in in the valley, thinking how strange that was. Turns out it was baboons. We are in nature now!

    Leo got out of bed to watch the sunrise turn the mountains pink. Finishing a book, brewing a pot of coffee and preparing a nice breakfast for us while Lars slept in a bit. After scrambled eggs and avo, we packed the car and took a little stroll to explore the canyon a bit and then it was time to head to Aus.

    Cruizing at a smooth 120km on these silky gravels roads, we encounter their artist. A single man and his tractor - working on the roads, ensuring they stay smooth - driving on for days in the middle of nowhere. Thinking to ourselves he would be the perfect hero of a Namibian novel.

    We were driving along the Orange River, the natural bordel between Namibia and South Africa, where the dry and rocky desert contrasts with the lush greenery of the river bed. Meandering inside the canyon, admiring the early spring flowers and birds in the river, we had our first set back.The dreaded flat tyre! Despite the very efficient team effort to replace the tyre, the spare tyre’s speed regulation slowed us down by 2hours.

    Arriving a little later than planned in Aus, we had our second set back: the camp we wanted to stay at was fully booked (one of the few we hadn’t booked in advance). This turned out to be a blessing in disguise as our options were to book a bnb room or to go wild. We decided on the latter and found a secret wild camp spot tucked between an empty strip and massive boulders. We set up our camp just in time to climb up the rocks for the sunset. Truly in the middle of nowhere, not a soul in sight, only the massive red African sun coming down on the silent plain.

    A wild camping wouldn't be perfect without a real gourmet meal! Pasta al' capers, Limone y oregano by the fire and under the spectacular stary skies. End of another beautiful day!

    See below the picture and day recap video
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  • Day 3

    Day 3 - Aus to Sossuvlei

    August 7, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Drive: 375km

    We woke up all refreshed from the quietest night ever and come out of our nest at the crack of dawn. At breakfast, we marvelled at the deafening silence of the night, truly expecting to be hearing the local animals going about their nocturnal lives. Maybe there just aren’t any animals around here we said.

    A little later as we were strolling toward the sunshine we discovered subtle prints, just a few meters away from our tent! A print with the unmistakable 5 little cushions reminding us this was not our land (see photo).

    It was time to leave our little improvised paradise camp. But first a quick pit stop to fix our tyre, at the petrol station / convenience store / restaurant / accommodation - the definition of one stop shop. Assisted by Piet and his crew the tyre was quickly fixed and we were ready to go.

    Back on the road we were. On the way to the Red Dunes of Sossuvlei, the much expected first destination of our Honey moon. The road was a classic Namibian strip of desert surrounded by rocky mountains. But the closer we got to our destination, the more the landscape started showing off. The layers of orange, red and brown of the hills; the dephts of blues and greys of the mountains afar; the patches of greens at our side; the true palet of Namibian colors was unfolding in front of us.

    One last patchy rocky road until we finally arrived at Sossus Oasis Camp, our home for two nights. Or so we thought. As we arrived to check in, after queing in the heat for the very busy entry park, we realized our booking was in fact for another Camping. "The camp you booked, Namib Naukluft, is 100km that way" the lady said, "and we are fully booked here unfortunately." But with a genuine apology and kind smile, Petronella agreed to find us an unofficial spot for the night, that she even walked us to. "You won't have any electricity though" she said - so we answered "but you have beers on tap right? WE'LL TAKE IT" we had a good laugh and proceeded with the check in. A couple of beers later, we had made a new plan. Spend the night here, hit the dunes early in the morning and head straight to Swakopmud after.

    After hitting the very refreshing pool, we set up camp, poured ourselves a well deserved G&T and started making dinner. Menu of the day: sardines au citron for the apéro and chicken curry in the potjie for mains. A lovely evening in the warmth of the desert and packed up to be able to leave at 6 in the morning.

    Check out the photos and recap videos below
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  • Day 4

    Day 4 - Sossuvlei dunes to Swakopmud

    August 8, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Drive: 406km / from start 2000km

    With a new record packing time (barely impacted by the tent-stuck-in-zipper-drama) we were at the gate of the Sossuvlei park by 6.25am, coffee and rusks in hand.

    Cruizing into the night, behind a long line of little red lights, with the long awaited dunes slowly taking shape ahead and the first colors of the rising sun behind the mountains in the back.

    As the sky started to become a beautiful canvas of orange, we arrived at the end of the road. Hopped into a Safari jeep that lead us to the dunes through some deep sand tracks.

    With many warm layers including Leo's fur, we comfortably rode through the crispy morning temperatures and quickly arrived at the foot of the dunes, and the 2 famous valleys: Sossuvlei and Deadvlei. Time to hike up the biggest red dunes of them all: Big Daddy.

    Slowly climbing on the ridge of that 325m high dune, we marvelled at the beauty of the landscape unfolding in front of us. The timid sunlight descending on the bright red dunes contrasting with the clear blue skies was truly a sight for sore eyes. Sharing a pure moment of contemplation holding each other watching the sunrise.

    Step by step reaching the summit, following into the steps of fellow travelers, Lars's cool Cat(erpillar) prints and unknown little paws (see pictures).

    Halfway through, the sun started heating up. To say that Leo may have overdone it, with her choice of 5 layers, would be an understatement. Dragging her fur like a dead sheep while Lars was laughing out loud, we finally made it to the top.

    A vision carved in our memories forever. With the red dunes spreading for kilometers in every direction, their fifty shades of orange and red sand and at our feet the white dried salt pan of Deadvlei.

    After a moment taking it all in, we decided to run down the steep slope of the dune. Lars launched first and Leo followed for a genuine playful free fall! At the bottom, and after removing a kilo of sand from each shoe, we discovered the infamous trees of the dead valley. Such a incredible sight to see these petrified trees on the salt flats, which looked like man-made pavement (see pictures). Wandering around, thinking about the once-in-every-20-years-moment of grace when the valley comes to life and flowers start to bloom on the desolated land. (A must google search).

    Full of beautiful images we started heading back to our car. A classic bowl of granola for energy and we were good to go onto the next adventure!

    Next stop Swakopmud, with a quick pit stop in Solitaire, a mere 142km away from Sossuvlei. No better name could have been given to that fun little settlement of 100 souls. For the old timer car scrapyard, the checky squirrels and the massive game meat sandwiches, was everything we needed to be happy.

    During the next 264Km to Swakopmud, we crossed all the imaginable landscapes. The moon landing hills, a dark stone valley, a green canyon pass to finally cross a long desolated patch. A total land of nothingness with the occasional tyres on the side of the road and accompanying stranded fellow overlander. It was only with the far sighting of the white dunes that we noticed we were getting so close to the coast!

    Entering an industrial no man's land, with a heavy sandy fog, we felt a real post apocalyptic vibe to the area.

    Driving alongside the Walvis bay coast, tucked between an agitated sea, many new real estate developments and the massive white dunes we finally made it to Swakopmud where we had indulged in a dust free hotel night.

    A fabulous shower later we looked fresh as ever for an evening of diving into this odd little German town. Starting with an obligatory stop at a Brauhaus for a beer, and finishing with a fish meal at the wobbly jetty restaurant. What a day !
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  • Day 5

    Day 5 - Swakopmud to Brandberg Mountains

    August 9, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Drive: 228km / from start: 2229km

    A lazy morning in the guest house where we took time to research our next journey. After 4 days of intense driving, we decided we needed to rest a little and set up camp for a few days. But Swakopmud, with it's constant mist and cold weather, was not going to cut it.

    We still wanted to explore this strange German town. Strolling around to run a couple of errands and grab a decent flat white.

    There and then we made a new plan, we have 5 days until our next booking in Etosha National Park: plenty of time to go explore the Damaraland region.

    First step, a 2 hour drive towards the Brandberg Mountains, once more driving through the emptiness. Along the coast, the massive waves crashing on shipwrecks and oddly built concrete and sand villages. Inland the longest and straightest gravel road, it's occasional "work in progress" signs and builders camps. Closest to our destination we encountered a few informal shops of local Damaraland people selling gems and metal sculptures.

    Finally arriving at the White Lady Lodge, on the bed of the dried up river, we were surprised by the bright green bushes, massive rock formation and of course the scorching heat. What a delight to discover this little oasis in the desert, built at the bottom of a rocky hill, with lush grass, healthy olive trees and many cacti species. And best of all, a chilly pool! A perfect set up (despite the mostly french clientele :) !)

    Setting up in our massive "deluxe camp", with it's kitchen, closed bathroom and shower (see pictures), we still fiddled around for a while trying to figure out the best spot: to be out of the sun in the afternoon and behind the trees for the sunrise. In the end deciding to drive back to the camp, hop in the pool and chill there for the sunset. Realizing then that we were going to be driving our car anyway so the position didn't matter that much after all !

    Climbing on the rocks to witness a dramatic sunset, all rays of light, patches of cloud and massive red sun. What a gift.
    Time to head back to camp for dinner, menu of the night: lamb steak à la Lars (understand grilled in the braai and finished off with butter, garlic and rosemary in a pan) with corn and a carrot and cumin salad. Finishing the evening, with the light of the fire and the noisy bird conversations.
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  • Day 6

    Day 6 - Brandberg Mountains

    August 10, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    First day of not driving! And boy did we take it slow. We had nice sleep in, before we were awoken by the birdies. The beautiful blue sterlings and their defined song as well as the Lion's king-Zazou-looking African Hornbill. Checked in our bird book of course!

    After a morning of chilling it was time for the first laundry of the trip. Feeling all Little House in the prairie there for a second, cleaning our undergarments with some savon de Marseille!

    Time to head to the lodge for a good relaxing session by the pool. Under our cooling canopy, enjoying a great read, for Leo "the art of not giving a f*ck*, very adequate in that situation one would say; and for Lars, his 4th attempted read of "Isaac and the egg".

    An easy lunch under the trees, fairly distracted by the 2 local meerkats having a go at the grass to find some juicy worms.

    At the end of the afternoon we decided to leave the camp and find a nice spot for sundowners on one of the big boulders down the river bed. We picked up some drinks and snacks and were ready for great apéro - thanks to Marie for her imported charcuterie boards!

    Barely a few hundred meter away from the camp, we saw the most incredible sight! A single elephant having a dinner in the trees. What a fantastic surprise for what was just supposed to be a little sunset drive!

    With the orange rays taking over the blue skies, we quickly left good old Eli to his frolicking and found a spot to enjoy jamon iberico con sol rojo. Feeling immensely grateful for nature's gift.

    Back at the camp with finished the day with the most Afrikaans dinner of all, chakalaka and boerworst!
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  • Day 7

    Day 7 - Brandberg to Damaraland

    August 11, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After an elephant-filled-dreamy night at the White Lady Lodge, we woke up slowly and enjoyed the quiet morning watching a new friend: the Go-away-bird. A massive avo burrito and fruit salad later it was time for play! Testing our strategy with a friendly game of Yahtzee! 1-1 for the first round!

    Time to pack up from this little oasis and start exploring the region.

    Our first stop, a visit to one of the old Khoisan rock paintings, after which the camp was named. 10km away, at the bottom of the Brandberg mountain we arrived at the site of the "White Lady Painting". Together with our local guide Samuel and fellow visitors, a group of very grumpy Spaniards and their wives, we made our way into the 5km round trip to the canyon.

    Our guide told us all about :
    - the geology of the mountain and the volcanic eruption that happened 150 million years ago, finally explaining how the landscape, with all the boulders and koppies, was created.
    - the local inhabitants of the regio , the damara people and of course, various species of lezards, rock dassies, elephants and leopards.
    - the trees and their medicinal and beauty purposes such as canpher as "wild perfume" or the Shepard tree as mosquito repellent.

    Of course starting an animated discussion with Leo about the various local fruit trees and the jams they could make with them. Mainly a berry tree from which jam and fermented beer was made. If the monkeys didn't get harvesting before them of course.

    Under the one o'clock sun, we were quite happy to arrive at the site of the 4000 year old bushmen paintings in the shade of massive boulders. Samuel told us about the White Lady. In fact not a lady at all, but a drawing of a shaman covered in ashes (hence the white) for their tribe rituals. Around him, gathering women, hunting men, and the animals found in the region. Mainly oryxes and zebras. Made with a mixture of animal blood and poisonous milk of a tree for the red paint and with ostrich egg for the white paint.

    It was time to leave the Brandenberg Mountain and make our way to a new spot. Our plan was to find something in the wild again, which we found halfway on the very bumpy road to Twijfelfontein, our next destination.

    We found a beautiful spot between the rocks a little off the road. A quick evaluation of the terrain and a climb on the rocks to find the best sunset view point and we were set!

    Once again a wild camping spot to remember with massive boulders covered in white crystals! Choosing our best french Pâté (aux châtaignes) for the occasion, and fresh beers we enjoyed another one of Africa's classic red sun downers.

    Starting the easiest fire ever, famous Namibian wood for a reason, we enjoyed an evening under the stars with a comforting dish of Gnocchi Al lamb Raggu and our favorite Badenhorst Family red wine.
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  • Day 8

    Day 8 - Damaraland

    August 12, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Waking up nice and early from the surprising cold and morning dew, we jumped on the opportunity to hike up another koppie to watch the sunrise. Much like the sunset, this one was neon red and quickly warmed up the plain.

    A quick brekky and packy later we were back on the road to Twyfelfontein for more bushmen paintings. Funnily enough our guide for this new it as also named Sam, a very knowlegable and friendly guy. Spending half his time guiding in Etosha or Sossuvlei and the rest here, in his hometown.

    Twyfelfontein has a massive concentration of paintings, over 10000 in the area on more than 250 rocks. All created some 2000 to 6000 years ago as a means to communicate with other tribes about the local animals and water points; to converse with the gods; to educate the next generations and to leave a cultural print of their traditions.

    We witnessed how far the San would travel in a life time by seeing some out of place paintings clearly not from the desert. A seal, a hippo and a penguin to name a few. Incredible to think these same paintings can be found close to Cape Town and all the way to the Drakensberg.

    Hopping back in the car to reach our next stop a few kilometers away: Madisa camp.
    Perfectly set up at the bottom of a massive boulder Koppie on the bed of the river, a great stop for travellers.

    Quickly setting up camp (we're so fast now!) and heading for a nap by the pool until the first colors of sunset started showing. Climbing up the 50m high koppie for a bright red sunset. Only made more beautiful by the dust line of occasional car driving into the light, creating a very cinematographic effect.

    We decided to go out for dinner for a change, a massive kudu steak from the braai. While we waited we had the decisive game of Yahtzee. Lars unfortunately had nothing going against Leo's back to back Yahtzees!

    We ended the evening with a lovely stroll under the fabulous stars back to our tent and it was the end of another amazing day in the Veul-Foubert Nami-moon
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  • Day 9

    Day 9 - Damaraland to Etosha

    August 13, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Drive : 275km / to date: 2600km

    Waking up on another chilly morning, we sat in the first rays of sunshine and prepared a classic road trip breakfast. Nothing like the smell of bacon grilling and fresh coffee brewing!

    Time to head on the next part of our journey: Etosha here we come!

    A quick pretrol stop in the little town of Khorixas, an hour away from Madisa Camp.
    The a further 2 hours until the bigger town of Outjo - clearly a town designed to host all the travelers to and from Etosha - where we stocked up on some fresh food had a quick lunch at the local bakery.

    From Outjo it was only a short ride before we arrived at Etosha Trading Post, our camp for the night. At only 4km from the entrance gate of the park, this camp was the perfect spot to start the game drive part of our trip. We quickly unpacked the car and headed straight into the park for a afternoon drive.

    A quick "check in" at the gate and we were hitting the dust for our first safari drive of the trip. We immediately saw a family of Oryxes welcoming us along with more Springboks than any rugby fan could dream of.

    Under the hot sun of the afternoon we didn't expect to see too much wildlife but were still greeted by zebras, korhaans, drongos, many termites hills and the sight of the day, a rhino hiding in the bushes.

    Reaching the gate just on time for closing at 6.30pm with the beautiful colors of the sunset.

    Back at camp in no time, we enjoyed a fresh beer and snack while preparing the fire for dinner: Thai green curry in the potjie. Our Afrikaans friends would be so proud!
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  • Day 10

    Day 10 - Etosha

    August 14, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the warmest night of the trip so far, we were all well slept and ready for a great day of looking for animals!

    A 6am wake up call followed by coffee and granola and quick pack up and we were crossing the gate at 7.20 just in time to witness the beautiful red ball of fire rising in the sky.

    We went straight into the safari mode; binoculars in one hand, wildlife book in the other, all windows opened - despite the chilly 9°c morning - we were operational and on the lookout for any movement.

    Etosha didn't disappoint. Just a few minutes in, having stopped to check on a Goshawk, we noticed 2 black spots moving around the open plain. Jumping of joy realizing we were looking at Honey Badgers on their morning food run. A first time spot for the both of us!
    Barely starting the car again, 2 little pointy ears showed up in the distance, those of a little Black-backed Jackal. Chuffed by these morning wins, we could not believe our eyes when 2 massive elephants walked by us in their morning stroll just a few minutes later.
    The rest of the morning, we were gifted with herds of Zebras, Springboks and Wildebeest from every point of view.

    Out surrounding were of a very deserted nature. Dust, dust and more dust covering the plains. But the few bushes around still managed to give a good hiding place for our friends the cats. None in sight!

    As we moved east and closer to the center of the park, we noticed the vegetation changing to a timid green especially around the wannabe lake turned into salt flats.

    A quick tea and rusk break and we were back on the hunt. Ostriches, Giraffes, Elephants, Lapwings, Spotted thick-knee’s, Kestrels, Kori Bustards and a yet to be identified bird of pray.

    We stopped for a lunch under the Halali camp trees, fighting of the blue Sterlings and squirrels and figuring out our next move.
    With no reservation for the night, we were hoping to convince one of the camp managers to make up some space in the park for a cute couple on their honeymoon.

    Arriving on the other side of the park in Namutoni, we tried our luck at the camp site but were welcomed with a very expected "fully booked".

    Time to check the options outside the park. Just on the border with the gate we found a beautiful place: Makuti lodge. When they greeted us with fresh wet towels and a home brewed ginger tea we knew we were in for a treat. If the grand architecture, designer furniture and massive pool were not proof enough of course!

    Slightly out of place, full of dust with our safari boots and shorts, we quickly blended right in by the pool. Leo reading her book in the pool bed under her massive hat and Lars catching up on world news and sports actualities.

    At a delicious restaurant dinner we enjoyed a lovely evening and good food. Only to come home to our bedroom having especially been decorated for a romantic honey moon!
    Cherry on top for us road trippers? The fresh linen and comfortable bed!
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