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Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
  • Léonore Fou
  • Lars Veul
August 2023

Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

We decided to write a little blog of our journey through Namibia & Botswana. Enjoying the daily team journalling and record of this incredible adventure. Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 5, 2023
    Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 1 - Cape Town to Ais Ais

    August 5, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Drive 800km
    Accommodation: Ais Ais NWR Camp site

    Our 22 day Honeymoon road trip through Namibia and Botswana was not planned overnight. A trip we both dreamt for a long time, we wanted to live this experience to the fullest. With a mix of wild, nature, adventure and luxury treats, this was definitely going to be a trip to remember.

    It started with weeks of preparation as we needed to get all our camping equipment, car 4x4 gear, stock up on food and drinks and book all the spots in advance. On Friday evening we packed and the car and finally hit the road of Saturday 5th of August.

    We left the city in the early morning surrounded by a thick mist. After 2.5 hours of driving through the dark, misty roads the sun showed itself going up the Citrusdal pass, where we stopped for a first sunny breakfast. The morning continued with car games and wild flower gazing.

    We planned a big drive to spend our first night in Namibia. Driving through the little towns of the Western and Northern Cape, and after a last stop in Springbok to stock up on some last supplies, we made it to the border. A smooth and friendly control later, we were back on the road. Very soon we swapped the tar highway for the Namibian gravel road. We drove through desolate, Mars-looking landscapes, until we finally arrived in Ais Ais on the bed of the Fish River Canyon. The camp is mostly visited by hikers embarking on a 5 day/90km trail, a journey we couldn’t fit into our trip this time but definitely plan on returning to.

    After setting up camp, we rewarded ourselves with a fresh beer, juicy steak, its minute beurre maître d'hôtel and a fine little whisky by the fire. Holidays have started!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
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    Day 2 - Ais Ais to Aus

    August 6, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Drive: 333km

    We woke up early by what we thought were guys shouting very loud in in the valley, thinking how strange that was. Turns out it was baboons. We are in nature now!

    Leo got out of bed to watch the sunrise turn the mountains pink. Finishing a book, brewing a pot of coffee and preparing a nice breakfast for us while Lars slept in a bit. After scrambled eggs and avo, we packed the car and took a little stroll to explore the canyon a bit and then it was time to head to Aus.

    Cruizing at a smooth 120km on these silky gravels roads, we encounter their artist. A single man and his tractor - working on the roads, ensuring they stay smooth - driving on for days in the middle of nowhere. Thinking to ourselves he would be the perfect hero of a Namibian novel.

    We were driving along the Orange River, the natural bordel between Namibia and South Africa, where the dry and rocky desert contrasts with the lush greenery of the river bed. Meandering inside the canyon, admiring the early spring flowers and birds in the river, we had our first set back.The dreaded flat tyre! Despite the very efficient team effort to replace the tyre, the spare tyre’s speed regulation slowed us down by 2hours.

    Arriving a little later than planned in Aus, we had our second set back: the camp we wanted to stay at was fully booked (one of the few we hadn’t booked in advance). This turned out to be a blessing in disguise as our options were to book a bnb room or to go wild. We decided on the latter and found a secret wild camp spot tucked between an empty strip and massive boulders. We set up our camp just in time to climb up the rocks for the sunset. Truly in the middle of nowhere, not a soul in sight, only the massive red African sun coming down on the silent plain.

    A wild camping wouldn't be perfect without a real gourmet meal! Pasta al' capers, Limone y oregano by the fire and under the spectacular stary skies. End of another beautiful day!

    See below the picture and day recap video    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
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    Day 3 - Aus to Sossuvlei

    August 7, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Drive: 375km

    We woke up all refreshed from the quietest night ever and come out of our nest at the crack of dawn. At breakfast, we marvelled at the deafening silence of the night, truly expecting to be hearing the local animals going about their nocturnal lives. Maybe there just aren’t any animals around here we said.

    A little later as we were strolling toward the sunshine we discovered subtle prints, just a few meters away from our tent! A print with the unmistakable 5 little cushions reminding us this was not our land (see photo).

    It was time to leave our little improvised paradise camp. But first a quick pit stop to fix our tyre, at the petrol station / convenience store / restaurant / accommodation - the definition of one stop shop. Assisted by Piet and his crew the tyre was quickly fixed and we were ready to go.

    Back on the road we were. On the way to the Red Dunes of Sossuvlei, the much expected first destination of our Honey moon. The road was a classic Namibian strip of desert surrounded by rocky mountains. But the closer we got to our destination, the more the landscape started showing off. The layers of orange, red and brown of the hills; the dephts of blues and greys of the mountains afar; the patches of greens at our side; the true palet of Namibian colors was unfolding in front of us.

    One last patchy rocky road until we finally arrived at Sossus Oasis Camp, our home for two nights. Or so we thought. As we arrived to check in, after queing in the heat for the very busy entry park, we realized our booking was in fact for another Camping. "The camp you booked, Namib Naukluft, is 100km that way" the lady said, "and we are fully booked here unfortunately." But with a genuine apology and kind smile, Petronella agreed to find us an unofficial spot for the night, that she even walked us to. "You won't have any electricity though" she said - so we answered "but you have beers on tap right? WE'LL TAKE IT" we had a good laugh and proceeded with the check in. A couple of beers later, we had made a new plan. Spend the night here, hit the dunes early in the morning and head straight to Swakopmud after.

    After hitting the very refreshing pool, we set up camp, poured ourselves a well deserved G&T and started making dinner. Menu of the day: sardines au citron for the apéro and chicken curry in the potjie for mains. A lovely evening in the warmth of the desert and packed up to be able to leave at 6 in the morning.

    Check out the photos and recap videos below    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 4 - Sossuvlei dunes to Swakopmud

    August 8, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Drive: 406km / from start 2000km

    With a new record packing time (barely impacted by the tent-stuck-in-zipper-drama) we were at the gate of the Sossuvlei park by 6.25am, coffee and rusks in hand.

    Cruizing into the night, behind a long line of little red lights, with the long awaited dunes slowly taking shape ahead and the first colors of the rising sun behind the mountains in the back.

    As the sky started to become a beautiful canvas of orange, we arrived at the end of the road. Hopped into a Safari jeep that lead us to the dunes through some deep sand tracks.

    With many warm layers including Leo's fur, we comfortably rode through the crispy morning temperatures and quickly arrived at the foot of the dunes, and the 2 famous valleys: Sossuvlei and Deadvlei. Time to hike up the biggest red dunes of them all: Big Daddy.

    Slowly climbing on the ridge of that 325m high dune, we marvelled at the beauty of the landscape unfolding in front of us. The timid sunlight descending on the bright red dunes contrasting with the clear blue skies was truly a sight for sore eyes. Sharing a pure moment of contemplation holding each other watching the sunrise.

    Step by step reaching the summit, following into the steps of fellow travelers, Lars's cool Cat(erpillar) prints and unknown little paws (see pictures).

    Halfway through, the sun started heating up. To say that Leo may have overdone it, with her choice of 5 layers, would be an understatement. Dragging her fur like a dead sheep while Lars was laughing out loud, we finally made it to the top.

    A vision carved in our memories forever. With the red dunes spreading for kilometers in every direction, their fifty shades of orange and red sand and at our feet the white dried salt pan of Deadvlei.

    After a moment taking it all in, we decided to run down the steep slope of the dune. Lars launched first and Leo followed for a genuine playful free fall! At the bottom, and after removing a kilo of sand from each shoe, we discovered the infamous trees of the dead valley. Such a incredible sight to see these petrified trees on the salt flats, which looked like man-made pavement (see pictures). Wandering around, thinking about the once-in-every-20-years-moment of grace when the valley comes to life and flowers start to bloom on the desolated land. (A must google search).

    Full of beautiful images we started heading back to our car. A classic bowl of granola for energy and we were good to go onto the next adventure!

    Next stop Swakopmud, with a quick pit stop in Solitaire, a mere 142km away from Sossuvlei. No better name could have been given to that fun little settlement of 100 souls. For the old timer car scrapyard, the checky squirrels and the massive game meat sandwiches, was everything we needed to be happy.

    During the next 264Km to Swakopmud, we crossed all the imaginable landscapes. The moon landing hills, a dark stone valley, a green canyon pass to finally cross a long desolated patch. A total land of nothingness with the occasional tyres on the side of the road and accompanying stranded fellow overlander. It was only with the far sighting of the white dunes that we noticed we were getting so close to the coast!

    Entering an industrial no man's land, with a heavy sandy fog, we felt a real post apocalyptic vibe to the area.

    Driving alongside the Walvis bay coast, tucked between an agitated sea, many new real estate developments and the massive white dunes we finally made it to Swakopmud where we had indulged in a dust free hotel night.

    A fabulous shower later we looked fresh as ever for an evening of diving into this odd little German town. Starting with an obligatory stop at a Brauhaus for a beer, and finishing with a fish meal at the wobbly jetty restaurant. What a day !    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
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    Day 5 - Swakopmud to Brandberg Mountains

    August 9, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Drive: 228km / from start: 2229km

    A lazy morning in the guest house where we took time to research our next journey. After 4 days of intense driving, we decided we needed to rest a little and set up camp for a few days. But Swakopmud, with it's constant mist and cold weather, was not going to cut it.

    We still wanted to explore this strange German town. Strolling around to run a couple of errands and grab a decent flat white.

    There and then we made a new plan, we have 5 days until our next booking in Etosha National Park: plenty of time to go explore the Damaraland region.

    First step, a 2 hour drive towards the Brandberg Mountains, once more driving through the emptiness. Along the coast, the massive waves crashing on shipwrecks and oddly built concrete and sand villages. Inland the longest and straightest gravel road, it's occasional "work in progress" signs and builders camps. Closest to our destination we encountered a few informal shops of local Damaraland people selling gems and metal sculptures.

    Finally arriving at the White Lady Lodge, on the bed of the dried up river, we were surprised by the bright green bushes, massive rock formation and of course the scorching heat. What a delight to discover this little oasis in the desert, built at the bottom of a rocky hill, with lush grass, healthy olive trees and many cacti species. And best of all, a chilly pool! A perfect set up (despite the mostly french clientele :) !)

    Setting up in our massive "deluxe camp", with it's kitchen, closed bathroom and shower (see pictures), we still fiddled around for a while trying to figure out the best spot: to be out of the sun in the afternoon and behind the trees for the sunrise. In the end deciding to drive back to the camp, hop in the pool and chill there for the sunset. Realizing then that we were going to be driving our car anyway so the position didn't matter that much after all !

    Climbing on the rocks to witness a dramatic sunset, all rays of light, patches of cloud and massive red sun. What a gift.
    Time to head back to camp for dinner, menu of the night: lamb steak à la Lars (understand grilled in the braai and finished off with butter, garlic and rosemary in a pan) with corn and a carrot and cumin salad. Finishing the evening, with the light of the fire and the noisy bird conversations.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
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    Day 6 - Brandberg Mountains

    August 10, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    First day of not driving! And boy did we take it slow. We had nice sleep in, before we were awoken by the birdies. The beautiful blue sterlings and their defined song as well as the Lion's king-Zazou-looking African Hornbill. Checked in our bird book of course!

    After a morning of chilling it was time for the first laundry of the trip. Feeling all Little House in the prairie there for a second, cleaning our undergarments with some savon de Marseille!

    Time to head to the lodge for a good relaxing session by the pool. Under our cooling canopy, enjoying a great read, for Leo "the art of not giving a f*ck*, very adequate in that situation one would say; and for Lars, his 4th attempted read of "Isaac and the egg".

    An easy lunch under the trees, fairly distracted by the 2 local meerkats having a go at the grass to find some juicy worms.

    At the end of the afternoon we decided to leave the camp and find a nice spot for sundowners on one of the big boulders down the river bed. We picked up some drinks and snacks and were ready for great apéro - thanks to Marie for her imported charcuterie boards!

    Barely a few hundred meter away from the camp, we saw the most incredible sight! A single elephant having a dinner in the trees. What a fantastic surprise for what was just supposed to be a little sunset drive!

    With the orange rays taking over the blue skies, we quickly left good old Eli to his frolicking and found a spot to enjoy jamon iberico con sol rojo. Feeling immensely grateful for nature's gift.

    Back at the camp with finished the day with the most Afrikaans dinner of all, chakalaka and boerworst!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
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    Day 7 - Brandberg to Damaraland

    August 11, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After an elephant-filled-dreamy night at the White Lady Lodge, we woke up slowly and enjoyed the quiet morning watching a new friend: the Go-away-bird. A massive avo burrito and fruit salad later it was time for play! Testing our strategy with a friendly game of Yahtzee! 1-1 for the first round!

    Time to pack up from this little oasis and start exploring the region.

    Our first stop, a visit to one of the old Khoisan rock paintings, after which the camp was named. 10km away, at the bottom of the Brandberg mountain we arrived at the site of the "White Lady Painting". Together with our local guide Samuel and fellow visitors, a group of very grumpy Spaniards and their wives, we made our way into the 5km round trip to the canyon.

    Our guide told us all about :
    - the geology of the mountain and the volcanic eruption that happened 150 million years ago, finally explaining how the landscape, with all the boulders and koppies, was created.
    - the local inhabitants of the regio , the damara people and of course, various species of lezards, rock dassies, elephants and leopards.
    - the trees and their medicinal and beauty purposes such as canpher as "wild perfume" or the Shepard tree as mosquito repellent.

    Of course starting an animated discussion with Leo about the various local fruit trees and the jams they could make with them. Mainly a berry tree from which jam and fermented beer was made. If the monkeys didn't get harvesting before them of course.

    Under the one o'clock sun, we were quite happy to arrive at the site of the 4000 year old bushmen paintings in the shade of massive boulders. Samuel told us about the White Lady. In fact not a lady at all, but a drawing of a shaman covered in ashes (hence the white) for their tribe rituals. Around him, gathering women, hunting men, and the animals found in the region. Mainly oryxes and zebras. Made with a mixture of animal blood and poisonous milk of a tree for the red paint and with ostrich egg for the white paint.

    It was time to leave the Brandenberg Mountain and make our way to a new spot. Our plan was to find something in the wild again, which we found halfway on the very bumpy road to Twijfelfontein, our next destination.

    We found a beautiful spot between the rocks a little off the road. A quick evaluation of the terrain and a climb on the rocks to find the best sunset view point and we were set!

    Once again a wild camping spot to remember with massive boulders covered in white crystals! Choosing our best french Pâté (aux châtaignes) for the occasion, and fresh beers we enjoyed another one of Africa's classic red sun downers.

    Starting the easiest fire ever, famous Namibian wood for a reason, we enjoyed an evening under the stars with a comforting dish of Gnocchi Al lamb Raggu and our favorite Badenhorst Family red wine.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 8 - Damaraland

    August 12, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Waking up nice and early from the surprising cold and morning dew, we jumped on the opportunity to hike up another koppie to watch the sunrise. Much like the sunset, this one was neon red and quickly warmed up the plain.

    A quick brekky and packy later we were back on the road to Twyfelfontein for more bushmen paintings. Funnily enough our guide for this new it as also named Sam, a very knowlegable and friendly guy. Spending half his time guiding in Etosha or Sossuvlei and the rest here, in his hometown.

    Twyfelfontein has a massive concentration of paintings, over 10000 in the area on more than 250 rocks. All created some 2000 to 6000 years ago as a means to communicate with other tribes about the local animals and water points; to converse with the gods; to educate the next generations and to leave a cultural print of their traditions.

    We witnessed how far the San would travel in a life time by seeing some out of place paintings clearly not from the desert. A seal, a hippo and a penguin to name a few. Incredible to think these same paintings can be found close to Cape Town and all the way to the Drakensberg.

    Hopping back in the car to reach our next stop a few kilometers away: Madisa camp.
    Perfectly set up at the bottom of a massive boulder Koppie on the bed of the river, a great stop for travellers.

    Quickly setting up camp (we're so fast now!) and heading for a nap by the pool until the first colors of sunset started showing. Climbing up the 50m high koppie for a bright red sunset. Only made more beautiful by the dust line of occasional car driving into the light, creating a very cinematographic effect.

    We decided to go out for dinner for a change, a massive kudu steak from the braai. While we waited we had the decisive game of Yahtzee. Lars unfortunately had nothing going against Leo's back to back Yahtzees!

    We ended the evening with a lovely stroll under the fabulous stars back to our tent and it was the end of another amazing day in the Veul-Foubert Nami-moon    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 9 - Damaraland to Etosha

    August 13, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Drive : 275km / to date: 2600km

    Waking up on another chilly morning, we sat in the first rays of sunshine and prepared a classic road trip breakfast. Nothing like the smell of bacon grilling and fresh coffee brewing!

    Time to head on the next part of our journey: Etosha here we come!

    A quick pretrol stop in the little town of Khorixas, an hour away from Madisa Camp.
    The a further 2 hours until the bigger town of Outjo - clearly a town designed to host all the travelers to and from Etosha - where we stocked up on some fresh food had a quick lunch at the local bakery.

    From Outjo it was only a short ride before we arrived at Etosha Trading Post, our camp for the night. At only 4km from the entrance gate of the park, this camp was the perfect spot to start the game drive part of our trip. We quickly unpacked the car and headed straight into the park for a afternoon drive.

    A quick "check in" at the gate and we were hitting the dust for our first safari drive of the trip. We immediately saw a family of Oryxes welcoming us along with more Springboks than any rugby fan could dream of.

    Under the hot sun of the afternoon we didn't expect to see too much wildlife but were still greeted by zebras, korhaans, drongos, many termites hills and the sight of the day, a rhino hiding in the bushes.

    Reaching the gate just on time for closing at 6.30pm with the beautiful colors of the sunset.

    Back at camp in no time, we enjoyed a fresh beer and snack while preparing the fire for dinner: Thai green curry in the potjie. Our Afrikaans friends would be so proud!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 10 - Etosha

    August 14, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the warmest night of the trip so far, we were all well slept and ready for a great day of looking for animals!

    A 6am wake up call followed by coffee and granola and quick pack up and we were crossing the gate at 7.20 just in time to witness the beautiful red ball of fire rising in the sky.

    We went straight into the safari mode; binoculars in one hand, wildlife book in the other, all windows opened - despite the chilly 9°c morning - we were operational and on the lookout for any movement.

    Etosha didn't disappoint. Just a few minutes in, having stopped to check on a Goshawk, we noticed 2 black spots moving around the open plain. Jumping of joy realizing we were looking at Honey Badgers on their morning food run. A first time spot for the both of us!
    Barely starting the car again, 2 little pointy ears showed up in the distance, those of a little Black-backed Jackal. Chuffed by these morning wins, we could not believe our eyes when 2 massive elephants walked by us in their morning stroll just a few minutes later.
    The rest of the morning, we were gifted with herds of Zebras, Springboks and Wildebeest from every point of view.

    Out surrounding were of a very deserted nature. Dust, dust and more dust covering the plains. But the few bushes around still managed to give a good hiding place for our friends the cats. None in sight!

    As we moved east and closer to the center of the park, we noticed the vegetation changing to a timid green especially around the wannabe lake turned into salt flats.

    A quick tea and rusk break and we were back on the hunt. Ostriches, Giraffes, Elephants, Lapwings, Spotted thick-knee’s, Kestrels, Kori Bustards and a yet to be identified bird of pray.

    We stopped for a lunch under the Halali camp trees, fighting of the blue Sterlings and squirrels and figuring out our next move.
    With no reservation for the night, we were hoping to convince one of the camp managers to make up some space in the park for a cute couple on their honeymoon.

    Arriving on the other side of the park in Namutoni, we tried our luck at the camp site but were welcomed with a very expected "fully booked".

    Time to check the options outside the park. Just on the border with the gate we found a beautiful place: Makuti lodge. When they greeted us with fresh wet towels and a home brewed ginger tea we knew we were in for a treat. If the grand architecture, designer furniture and massive pool were not proof enough of course!

    Slightly out of place, full of dust with our safari boots and shorts, we quickly blended right in by the pool. Leo reading her book in the pool bed under her massive hat and Lars catching up on world news and sports actualities.

    At a delicious restaurant dinner we enjoyed a lovely evening and good food. Only to come home to our bedroom having especially been decorated for a romantic honey moon!
    Cherry on top for us road trippers? The fresh linen and comfortable bed!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 11 - Etosha to Rundu

    August 15, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Drive: 430km
    Accommodation: Mukuku camp on the Cubango/Kavango River

    Waking up fresher than ever from our little clean break, we enjoyed an animated breakfast at the hotel with an army of mongoose living their best lives by the pool.

    Time to head north towards the Caprivi strip, destination Rundu.

    As we left the Etosha area we stopped to visit the Otjikoto Lake, created from a sink hole and now registered as a heritage site. Indeed, our guide explained how in 1915, the Germans, surrendering to the British, used this lake to dump their artillery.

    A few diving permits were given to discover the site. This lake is only 150 m wide but it’s depth hasn't been confirmed yet due to the many caves. The lowest divers were able to go was a deep 175m. Surrounding the lake, many beautiful species of trees, including the python tree (see picture)

    And back on the road we are! With a pit stop for food and petrol in Grootfontein we kept going north and were quickly reaching the begining of the Caprivi strip. Our surroundings slowly started to change more green in colour. We were leaving the endless deserts of Namibia behind us and heading to the water, mainly from the 3 big rivers: Kavango, Zambezi and Chobe.

    With the many villages by the side of the road, frequent stops for cows and goats to cross and many kids coming home from school we had to slow down a little bit.

    After reaching Rundu on the Angolan border we soon turned on to the dirt road and we arrived at Mukuku camp. An oasis by the river bought 15 years ago by an older Namibian couple ready to retire. Instead they created the perfect spot for travelers looking for a bit of shade, refreshment and in our case, a fantastic view points for birds!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 12 - Rundu to Mahango Park

    August 16, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Drive : 172km
    Accommodation: Ngepi Camp site

    No better way to be waken up than by the song of many birds. Waking up under the trees in Mukuku offered just that. Dozens of alarm calls running off all at the same time.
    Enough to get us promptly out of bed and head back to the jetty to watch the sunrise and admire the birds. Many new checks on our bird booky!

    Our next destination was just around the corner, a short 3.5 hours away, so we took our time to catch up on reading, blogging and napping by the pool.

    Getting excited for the next part of the adventure we headed off just after lunch to Ngepi, a stop-over to break the long drive to Botswana. We didn’t have much expectations for this camp but it seemed like a cool place to chill for 2 days by the river.

    A long and straight tar road to Divundu, once again zigzagging between cows, goats and smiling students, and we were ready for our turn off. Many little villages are organized here around the Kavango river, selling their wood fire and wood sculptures to the tourists passing by.

    Finally the Ngepi sign "7km down" followed by a multitude of fun notes about the road, some encouragements and generally loads of notes taking a piss at 4x4 drivers (see pictures)

    As we arrived in Ngepi, we discovered an amazing camp site, just on the Kavango river. A well decorated bar, a beautiful restaurant on a deck overlooking the water, loads of trees and thick grass to sit and read.

    We heard a little commotion coming from the observation deck: a pod of Hippos napping and playing around on the bank accross.

    But the highlight was truly to discover our camp spot, a patch of grass under the trees with an incredible view of the river. It was like stepping into a 3D projection of "Planet Earth"! The other side of the river was part of the Mahango Bwabwata National Park and looking straight from our camp we could see elephants, hippos, water bucks, warthogs, buffalo and many different bird species.

    We set up camp and we were ready to hop on the sunset boat cruise. Meandering between the pods of Hippos playing in the water, we made our way to the other side of the river, by the former "Buffalo military Camp". The soldiers have left and nature took back what was rightfully hers.

    The first sighting, one of Lars' much expected one, the fish eagle, watching proudly over the river. As we continued gliding on the water, crocodiles, little bee eaters, and many elephants came to greet with the most incredible sunset in the background.

    Coming back to camp and as starting to cook, the symphony of the night started, all the birds singing and all the hippos chatting in the water below our camp. Just then, one of our neighbors, a little girl came to tell us that the previous night, the hippos came out of the water to graze on the camp grass, "so just if that happens, stay in your tent and you'll be fine". What an adventure !!

    As we dined on Leo's sauté potatos, bacon and snails in the Potjie, surrounded by so much nature and wild life, we truly felt like the luckiest people on the planet.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 13 - Mahango national park

    August 17, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Accommodation : Ngepi Camp site

    Starting our day early with a breakfast on the camp site deck overlooking the river. Goggles in hand we could admire the morning routine of all the birds, starlings, weavers, bee eaters..

    Time to go and discover Bwabwata national park. And what a highlight! A very small park just few kms away from Ngepi, with one main road crossing to Botswana and a loop to look at the animals by the river. The best part was the numerous off road routes leading straight into the river beds and sand banks, giving us many opportunities to simply park to observe. And with so much to see! The real wildlife as Lion King depicted it. All around the water, hundred of species and thousands of animals living together. All types of deers, elephants, hippos, monkeys, giraffes, ostriches, buffalos, crocs and more types of birds we could ever think of. We just sat there trying to take it all in.
    What a surprise and a gift!

    Back at the camp for a light lunch, cold beer and little swim in the river cage! (Created to enable us to swim in the croc and hippo infested waters !)
    And time to get cooking!
    Tonight's menu, Lars' 4h oxtail and red wine potjie and Leo's homemade vetkoeks, a south African bread.
    Chopping and mixing and searing and kneading. Everything was ready for the next few hours of simmering and rising.
    One last check up to smell the incredible aromas coming out and stirring the pot.
    "You should leave the potjie alone" they say.
    So we did and took a sunset stroll through the camp.
    Coming back for the apéro and a few games of Yahtzee, listening to the bubbling stew in the background in it's 3rd hour of cooking.
    As we opened to check it we found a completely black burnt gooh on the bottom. Not what the recipe looked like.
    But luckily we still had the bread !
    As Leo put the dough balls on the grill, we quickly realized that was not going to make dinner either. The dough having now turned into compact flour.
    From our original juicy oxtail Potjie and fresh vetkoeks, we were now looking at carbonized meat and brick bread.

    The gnocchi and caned Bolognese thankfully managed to turn around Leo's hangry melt down and Lars's afrikaaner's disappointment.

    What a day!!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 14 - Mahango to Chobe

    August 18, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Drive: 450km
    Accommodation: Chobe Game Lodge

    Waking up bright and early from a night of hearing the hippos grazing and the lions roaring!
    A lovely breakfast on the deck watching the birds and we were ready to go.

    After 2 weeks of discovering Namibia in our car & tent, we had planned our 3rd and final week of honey moon to be a bit more luxurious in Botswana.

    Coming out of the cool sand road back into tar, next stop, Ngoma, the border crossing.
    As we drove through to the other end of the Mahango National Park, we were greeted by the usual cows and goats, but also a few giraffes and some elephants.
    We efficiently made our way to the Namibian exit border where a friendly agent and quick stamping got us in and out in 5 minutes !
    What a smooth border !

    Crossing the bridge, the whole landscape changed from bushes and yellow grass to rivers, baobabs and more elephants we could ever count.
    Our quick border celebration may have been a bit premature as we realized Botswana's gate was quite the busy spot. After having to step into a disinfecting shoe bath, we went into the long line of visitors.
    An hour later we finally got our stamp and with a quick control of our car supplies to check for animal products, we could continue our drive to Chobe.

    With Leo on the wheel and afro house pumping in the car we arrived at the Chobe national park in no time! Our lodge was one of 2 hotels situated inside the park. Giving it prime location for game drives. It also meant goodbye to tar, goodbye to dirt road and hello sand tracks!
    Despite a few deep sand portions and sudden elephant crossings we made it to the lodge smoothly with a great welcome comity proud to see a woman driving in!

    What a treat to arrive in this old safari lodge style house decorated with beautiful African furniture and bright colors, with our massive room overlooking the pool and river. Time for a quick shower and it was already time to head on our first game drive.
    Here at Chobe Game Lodge, in an empowerment commitment, all the guides are women ! We therefore met Refilwe our game driver for the evening. Hopping on the very comfortable car we headed out to discover the beauty of the Chobe river and all the animals around.

    In no time we were surrounded by thousands of elephants coming down the banks of the river to get their water intake after a very warm day. Around them, hippos bathing, baboons playing, all types of deers grazing and giraffes running into the sunset. Hard to believe so much life was going on peacefully around us.

    Making our way back up, we noticed something moving in the bushes. A honey badger quickly moving away. And we saw why straight away. A pride of lions had stolen his dinner, a juicy water Monitor Lizard. Seeing two young males playing around throwing the lizard in the air and running in the distance to eat it while the elders just enjoyed the cooling evening for a nap and a bath.
    What a surprise to see so much, including the lions on our first outing.
    Time to head back to camp, but not without a sunset view point of the Chobe River.

    A great dinner by the water with some traditional music and dances and a little night cap and we were ready to jump in our kingside clean bed !
    What a day !    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 15 - Chobe National Park

    August 19, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Accommodation: Chobe Game Lodge

    Ah the joys of game lodge life!
    Waking up at 5am, heading for coffee and rusks at 5.30am and leaving for our game drive at 6am.

    We embarked in an electric Land Rover driven by our guide of the day: Botho, called Miss B.
    With us in the car, a couple from Tennessee, a mother and son from Miami and a lovely couple from England.

    Driving around the park watching the beautiful sunrise shine it's light on the animals was very magical. Fish eagles overlooking the river, bocks getting their morning stretches and...a single lion walking around. Wow what a treat we thought. Only to realize a few hundred meters further was the rest of the pride of 8. Chilling on the road, the older male lion surrounded by younger males and their females.
    Feeling extra lucky to be so close from such beautiful and powerful animals. Especially hearing the lionesses communicating in their deep roar.
    The messages may not have been clear to the male lion however, who seemed to have confused "should we go hunting" "want to come mating?" 😅
    Trying to make it up to her with some cuddles didn't seem to be the way to go either. (See video)

    Unfortunately after almost an hour, it was time for us to leave the cute cats to go explore the rest of the area. Spending a bit of time with some birds and we were back at Camp for breakfast.

    And boom time for our end of morning cruise on the river. No time to waste!
    The smooth glide on the river with the electric boat gave us a very relaxing time to admire from a close distance the elephants playing in the water, swallows playing around the boat and crocs patiently waiting for their pray.

    And without realizing it, it was time for food again. The lunch was served on a great observation deck from which we could see all the animals gathering around the water.
    Finally time for a nap! Lodge life is a hard life indeed!
    At 3.30 pm Miss B welcomed us again at the boat for the sunset cruise.

    Spending again loads of time observing elephants playing in the mud and refreshing themselves in the cold water, we then made our way to another bank occupied by a family of monkeys.
    Between the teenagers trying to ruffle the feathers of very defensive Lapwings, elders trying to educate and babies carelessly playing around crocs, it was quite a show. And despite the many attempts of the croc to move in between the playing branches and trying to blend in with it's environment to trick the babies, the monkeys made it out ok. Or at least until we left at sunset.

    Enjoying the rest of the evening at the bar with joyful conversation with the British couple, exchanging stories about animals and travels.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 16 - Chobe to Khwai

    August 20, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Drive: 255km
    Accommodation: Mbudi Camp

    After enjoying the beauty of Chobe it was time to make our way to the final part of our trip: the Okavango Delta.

    Today would probably be the most challenging part of our trip. It was only a 255km drive to get to our next stop in Khwai, but we were warned by other travellers who’d done the drive that it was no joke. It’s very remote with bad roads/paths of deep sand and lots of bumps and can only be taken with a 4x4. We were told to be prepared for at least 9 hours driving. Their advice was to skip this part altogether and rather take the alternative route, a long tar road which would be 3x longer in distance.

    Luckily the staff at Chobe assured us that it was not dangerous and that they take the road themselves often. It’s a beautiful drive with lots of wild and we should see it as an adventure, exactly our thoughts!

    We decided to listen to the locals rather than the tourists and after a quick pit stop in Kasane we were on our way. The first hour was a breeze and after about 90km of tar roads we reached the sand. We deflated the tyres and drove into the bush. 20km passed quite easily and we had only 140km to go, what was all the fuss about?

    Then the deep sand and bumps started. And it didn’t stop. Not being able to go faster than 10km we started to understand the challenge. Leo not feeling very well on this day didn’t make it easier.

    We did however continue to make good progress and about halfway things seemed to get easier. The GPS indicated only 2 hours to go and we were already thinking about the cold beer at arrival.

    Suddenly the road stopped. Or better said, the right turn that the GPS indicated didn’t exist. There was only a left turn which was an extra 2 hours drive. The path got even worse and we started to think we should’ve listened to the tourists.

    After 7 hours we finally made it to the camp. And although a bit agitated by the trip we realised that it could have been much worse. We didn’t get stuck and except for 2 wine glasses, everything had made it in one piece!

    The next 2 nights we were staying at Mbudi Camp, a simple site on the Khwai river. At arrival a huge herd of Elephants was taking their afternoon dip in the river closely being watched by the local hippos. We realised this was our camp! It was in the middle of the bush open to all the wild.

    We asked the reception about the safety and after a not so reassuring answer - yes all the animals are here, better don’t get out of your tent at night - we found our spot and got ready to set up camp, but not before an elephant came to say hi.

    A little nervous of our surroundings and tired after a long day we had a quick dinner and went to bed early.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 17 - Khwai

    August 21, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Accommodation: Mbuti Camp Site

    What a night! Surrounded by so many animals, the hippo grazing in the water, the hyenas howling in the distance and these unknown 2 little yellow marbles Leo made eye contact with when going for a midnight bush pee. From the little paw prints in the morning, probably a wild cat or spotted genet.

    Taking our sweet time to make breakfast observing the little birds at work, we made it out of the camp just before 10.

    Crossing first bridge we made it to the North Gate.
    Considering the advanced hour of the day, we mostly saw bocks, elephants and for our delight, loads of birds!!
    One of the coolest, the saddle billed stork with its superhero mask (see video)
    Time to head back to camp for a little break. Desperately trying to find some food, water, ice and wood!
    Unfortunately luck was not much in our corner: all the little Tuck shops of the village of Khwai had not received any supplies in a few days and none of the camp sites could offer lunch due to the same restrictions on produce.

    Finally we found a spot that could organize lunch for us. A surprisingly great Bolognese pasta, cold beer and cool shade, we were full and happy.

    Back at camp for some bird watching and crosswords filling under the trees, it was no time until we were so hot that we decided to head back in the AC and into the park.
    With a mandatory stop to watch the elies playing around with their babies in the river of our camp site.

    We were gifted with a fabulous sunset in the bush and our first kill sighting. Our buddy the saddle billed stork catching a water snake for dinner. How amazing to see the technique of the bird and the survival skills of the snake. However Bird 1 - snake 0.

    Coming home to a very warm evening preparing a fabulous meal together. Leo and her spiced cauliflower on coals and Lars with his steak on the braai, sliced and finished off Basque restaurant style, grilled in the skillet with butter, garlic and rosemary. Un délice !    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 18 - Khwai to Moremi

    August 22, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Drive: 125km + Flight 40 minutes
    Accommodation: Moremi Game Lodge

    Today we are swapping the tent for a beautiful room, the camp site for a luxury lodge. Today we are going to the Moremi Game Lodge, deep into the Okavango Delta to celebrate our honey moon and Leo's birthday in style.

    With our flight to Moremi confirmed at 14.40 at Maun, we were not rushed to start the day.

    A good breakfast by the hippos who spent the night just in front of our camp spot and a bit of time packing our bags for the next adventure and we were ready to hit the road.
    One more patch of sand, some deep, some corrugated, some a bit smooth, well one last 4x4ing for Fordy to get to Maun.
    A busy road with many rangers and lodge staff driving back to the bush.

    Making it safe and sound to Maun we had arranged to park our car at the head office of Desert & Delta, the agency related to the lodge.
    One last check to make sure we were leaving with nice clothes and an empty fridge and the company dropped us at the airport.
    A nice lunch and quick nap later we were ready to board the plane !!

    How exciting to hop on this tiny 15 pax chessna for 40 minutes to fly above the Delta! What a treat to see from above all the rivers, water holes and many elephants and hippos in the water. We even flew next to a group of 30+ vultures and eagles enjoying the warm currents.
    Until finally we could see our air strip.

    Waiting for us, an employee of the lodge in his massive safari car. "We have some lunch for you here or if you want you can head straight for a game drive" " GAME DRIVE OF COURSE!!" we said !
    So while our luggage was taken to the lodge, we were dropped by our personal guide for the week, Gwist, who was already in the park with some clients.
    In no time, giraffes, zebras, bocks and lilac breasted rollers started showing up.
    But it's not until we drove into a pride of lions sleeping that we understood what an amazing trip was awaiting.

    And boy were we right. When we arrived, greeted by lovely staff and fresh warm towels, we discovered an incredibly beautiful lodge. All built in wood, thatch and tek and decorated with African artifacts.
    Our house, a luxury tented structure, all opened on nature, with beautiful furniture, double showers and a bottle of champagne on ice.
    What a dream!

    At 7.30 our guide picked us up for dinner, as we are not allowed to walk around alone at night due to the unfenced property.
    Joining the massive dinner table with the rest of the 20 guests.
    Between the lovely food, great ambiance created by the staff around menus and wine pairing and the fun conversation at the table, that was overall a great first night.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon

    Day 19 - Moremi

    August 23, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Accommodation: Moremi Game Lodge

    After the most incredible night sleep, we were asked to join the main lodge for breakfast at 6.30 am. Fresh fruits and good coffee and we were operational for the morning game drive with Gwist.

    "Is there anything particular you are hoping to see here?" He asked
    To which we both answered in unison "wild dogs!"
    As we started driving, the radio mumbled some words and Gwist suddenly turned around with a happy grim on his face.
    "Well hold on we are going to rush to the 3rd gate wild dogs have been spotted!"
    We couldn't believe our eyes when after crossing a river and driving way to fast on the sandy bumps, we arrived at the old air strip.
    In front of us a pack of 10 wild dogs with the sun rising in the background.
    Bound to be renamed "African wolf" we were told, the wild dog is one of the most endangered species (due to rabbies and farmers wanted to protect their live stock - reason why some of them are tagged and tracked).

    Back on the road, it was no time until we met yet another pride of lions waking up from their morning nap in the sun and slowly getting ready to head hunting. How magical to spend time with these big cats. We were in total awe of their presence.

    Just before our little coffee and stretch next to hippo central, we enjoyed a bunch of giraffes playing and teasing, zebras grazing and monkeys playing.

    Absolutely delighted by this morning drive we came home happy (and hungry of course). A great brunch and mandatory nap were on the plan.

    3.30pm rang and after a little iced tea and scones we were hopping in our safari car.

    And the magic happened again, a mother leopard and its cub walking back from the water hole to feed on the Impala carcass it had caught in the morning.
    Leo utterly melting with love in front of so much cuteness of the cub Leo.

    Never could we have imagined seeing so much in the same place we thought as we came back to the lodge and sipped on a fresh apéro.
    Enjoying a great shower after the dusty day, we dressed to the nines and popped some bubbles before heading to dinner under the stars.
    Staying a bit later by the fire with our fellow travelers, and as we were being escorted back to our house, a guide shouted at us. We heard loud barks and were informed 2 buffalos had entered the property followed by a hungry pride of lions on the hunt.
    Hopping into the car we drove past them, casually walking the isle to our house. After carefully jumping above the ramp we could get safely into our room with our hearts beating !
    More than ever we understood the concept of escort ! "It doesn't often happen, but when it happens it happens for real" said Gwist.

    Woooooow, What a day!    Read more

    Trip end
    August 27, 2023
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