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Albania

October - November 2023
A 19-day adventure by A and Js World Adventure Read more
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  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 1

    Tirana, Albania

    October 16, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Arriving in Tirana from Sicily was like a breath of fresh air. What was immediately noticeable was how clean and modern the city was. On arrival, we walked out of the airport terminal and were directed to a coach that was waiting to depart for the city. For €4 each we were delivered to the city centre which was bustling like a modern first-world metropolitan.

    We had no real preconceptions about Albania and very little knowledge about its history or geography. The only person that I know who’s been here rode a horse over the mountain range and described it to be a pretty wild place. Our decision to come here had again been guided by Skyscanner.com which offered one of the cheapest flights out of Sicily. We quickly discovered that Albania is still relatively unknown to mainstream travellers. One reason for this is that it was under communist rule until the early 90's. During that time, access into and out of the country was heavily restricted. As a result, the country took a while to improve its economic situation before it eventually started attracting tourists. In saying that, immediately we got the impression that Albanians are extremely friendly, and working hard to improve the reputation of their home to the outside world.

    After a fairly busy past 2 weeks in Italy, we were keen to settle into a single place again for a while. Helping that situation was the ability to rent a full apartment with all the creature comforts for only $35/night. We rented an apartment in the city centre and began to look at what was here to do. Still a bit naive to their recent past, I found a museum nearby that had repurposed a Cold War bunker and was recommended for people who wanted to understand the realities of living during the years of communism. The entrance led directly underground. It connected to a series of passages beneath the city centre that were designed to withstand a nuclear blast. Each room had been arranged with displays that took you on a journey through what became an increasingly police state. At one point in time, 1 in 3 people were spying for the security services to identify and prosecute any opposition to the government. An extremely eye opening and sobering experience that really described the state of fear that was perpetrated on the population during this time.

    Keen to find a nice beach to settle in for a while we found that the nearest coast town was only 45 minutes away. Despite our easy transfer from the airport we started to realise that public transport isn’t very easy to navigate as a tourist. While the buses themselves are quite modern, the schedule and routes aren’t that clear on google. We ended up scoring a taxi with our bags intended to go to the bus terminal however for an easy €25 we were taken the whole way to Durres.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 3–9

    Durres, Albania

    October 18, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We rented an apartment in Durrës for 6 nights and enjoyed the second longer stay of our trip so far. With an apartment with a kitchen and living space, we were able to get into a good routine of exercise, work on some projects and beach time. Everything we’d been wanting at this stage.

    Durres is a coastal town with a city centre set around the port and a long beach extending south. The entire beachfront was lined with large hotels and restaurants that gave the impression that in the peak season this would be a busy place. Similarly to our experience in Sicily, we arrived in the shoulder season and found most places completely closed down for the winter. The water was reasonably warm still so having the beach to ourselves was a treat. Amongst the large hotels along the beachfront, we found a small bar owned by a local guy who had a handful of umbrellas out and the cheapest beers by far. This became our regular afternoon session(sometimes morning 🤷‍♂️😂). The perfect place to stop by for a beer, some sun and the sunset, all while he tinkered away at minor improvements.

    Of all the time we spent in Durres we only got up to the city centre once. Now realising that the bus system would benefit from a recce to confirm the correct terminal location for our next destination. The problem was that everything we found online about buses to the Riviera told us something different. Also was the issue that now being in the off-season we weren’t sure if some of the comments were even still relevant. We caught the local bus to the city bus terminal. And even there we were told different things. One opinion was that we would need to go back to Tirana (the opposite direction) and another suggestion was that buses heading south went from a different terminal outside of Durres.

    After wandering around the centre which included an old ruins of a Roman-eta amphitheater, we set out to find this 2nd terminal. Fortunately, the local bus line consisted of one route that ran from the centre, down the coast past our apartment, and directly to the place we were told about. As we arrived, almost freakishly, we stepped off the bus and were greeted by a mini bus stopped on the kerb with a sign in its window saying “Vlorë”. Exactly where we were trying to get to! Except it was leaving literally at that moment. Being on our recce, it meant we didn’t plan on leaving till the next day. So now we needed to figure out if this chance encounter could be replicated the next day. We tried unsuccessfully to get some information from the driver who was keen to get us onboard right there to get an additional 2 fares. What we decided was it was likely that at least there would be a similar minibus at the same place/same time the next day. So with the plan to just pack up and bring our gear down early in the morning, we had enough information to at least sleep a bit easier that night.

    The next day we caught the local bus down to the spot and instead of the shuttle was a taxi. The driver enthusiastically displayed a handwritten sign saying “Vlorë” and offered us a private shuttle for €10 each. Done! Funny how our lesson from Morocco of “trusting the system” seemed to be just as relevant here.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 9–11

    Vlorë, Albania

    October 24, 2023 in Albania

    Vlorë is quite similar to Durres in that it’s a port town with a long beach stretching south, also lined with hotels and restaurants. We were dropped by our taxi mid-morning at the bus terminal in the centre of town and had a couple of km walk down to our apartment on the beach.

    Considered to be the NW gateway to the Albanian Riviera we booked 2 days in Vlorë to research the best way of cruising down the coast from there. We started off trying to find a way to get to the first beach town but faced the same issues with public transport. No information and no schedules.

    Looking at the map, and remembering the issues we’d had in Sicily we decided to hire a car for a few days hoping that would give us greater flexibility. And potentially a better chance of doing some hikes.

    The water was crystal clear here compared to Durres so we happily spent a spare day between the beach and the town.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 11–12

    Dhermi to Himarë, Albanian Riviera

    October 26, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    With a severe lack of travel guides for Albania, we were basing most of our research on zooming around Google Maps and looking for nice beaches. Dhermi had been mentioned as having a nice beach strip with a more historic old town set about a 10-minute drive up the mountainside. We picked up the car in the morning and drove over Llonga Pass and down into Dhermi. The road up to the pass meandered through a steep valley and into a rainforest. As we reached the summit, the mountain range suddenly disappeared unveiling a breathtaking coastline.

    Driving into Dhermi we immediately recognised the benefit of having a car. The place was completely deserted. Being a single strip of hotels and sand that would normally be covered with sun beds and umbrellas, there was only one restaurant open. And it had no one in it. Fortunately, we hadn’t booked anywhere to stay so could stop for a look and keep driving.

    Being about lunchtime now, we drove up to the old town and faced the same problem. Only one bar was open and when we walked in to ask for something to eat there were only a handful of local men on the beers and eating plates of chopped-up cabanossi. Not quite the beach resort experience we were hoping for on our first stop. We kept driving and found a small bar with an outdoor area that was offering cold beer and some packets of chips so figured that may be our only chance.

    Extremely grateful we had opted for our own car, we continued to the next main beach town of Himare. Simply put, without it we would’ve likely been dropped off by a bus along the roadside of Dhermi and been stuck there with nothing to do and nothing to eat. The weather was forecast to be average for the next few days as well so being comfortable in a car was a dream.

    Himare was thankfully a little more populated with 3 restaurants open along the beachfront. We booked a last-minute apartment in town and went down for a swim and the sunset. Being so close to Greece there is a big Greek influence in the Riviera. After struggling to find decent food for a while we treated ourselves to dinner at a traditional Greek restaurant and were done for the day.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
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    Day 12–13

    Hirame to Sarande, Albanian Riviera

    October 27, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After our Greek dinner of Musaka and roast stuffed veggies, we pulled up a seat in the back street tavern to play some cards before bed. The table next to ours was well into a session to say the least. Endless rounds of beers, red wine and shots accompanied by sporadic toasts and laughs. At one stage they realised they may be disturbing us so offered for us to join the chaos. However, I'm guessing the invitation was likely only so Jessie could chat with his wife and keep him out of trouble that little bit longer 🤷‍♂️.

    Regardless of ulterior motives, the Russian wife actually gave us some great advice for what were must-see places along the coast. She explained that Albania is littered with old ruins of castles and that all are worth stopping to see if we have the time. Also that Gjirokastër and the Blue Eye were essential! We had seen them pop up on the map as feature locations but hadn’t paid them much attention as they were inland and away from our initial coastal itinerary. To this point, we hadn’t thought we’d go further south than Himare. With the weather forecast still showing showers and clouds for the majority of the next 2 days we decided to head down to Sarande and decide from there.

    What turned into almost another whole day of driving, our first stop was Porto Palermo Castle. An old prison fortress was constructed on a small island. The island had a land bridge that provided overwatch to a protected bay that had previously been used as a safe landing point for ships. From there we drove to Borsht Castle set atop a mountain peak with a mosque built on the site much more recent than the original castle ruins.

    We made it to Sarande in time to make our own sandwiches for lunch. Having learnt from the previous day we knew not to expect anywhere would be open. Sarande was much bigger and more populated than we expected. By far the most touristy centre of the whole Riviera, the beach and marina are extremely well maintained and a beautiful place to wander along.

    With rain forecast for the evening, we found a hotel room by cold-calling an empty reception. Five minutes later a guy showed up and gave us a room. Good enough for us for the night. Dinner was a delicious backed fish and a series of other Greek-inspired sides at a great restaurant overlooking the water with an eclectic collection of items decorating the bar.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 13

    The Blue Eye, Albania

    October 28, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Only a 45-minute drive from Sarande is a water spring that has formed an incredible fluorescent blue feature up a mountain valley. We walked from the car park about 2km where the incredible blue water gushed out of the ground and created a full mountain stream from right there. Nothing can explain what this place looks like in real life. We’d planned to go swimming but the place was heavily signposted advising not to. So avoiding the cold plunge we were back to the car and heading for Gjirokaster.Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 13

    Gjirokaster, Albania

    October 28, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    UNESCO listed for the hundreds of stone buildings that make up the town, Gjirokaster was about another 1-hour drive from the Blue Eye. We first drove out to Ali Pashas Bridge and walked out into the valley to find it. From there we drove back towards the old bazaar and found an incredible view over the biggest castle I’ve ever seen. Seated atop a mountain peak this castle sat imposingly above the rest of the town. The mountain was covered in slate rock. From the high elevation, you could see that most of the walls and roofs of the buildings were made of slate tiles and bricks.

    We went through the market street for a look before heading off back to the coast.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 13–14

    Lukova Beach, Albanian Riviera

    October 28, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Having not planned where we would stay that night we were keen to get to the beach early and scope out our options. The road back to the coast from Gjirokaster passed back through Sarande before heading north. And even then the road stayed inland for about the first 20km. There were a few beaches that we’d flagged along this stretch but none of them had a clear way to access them by car. Again Google offered little information on how to even access them on foot.

    At this point, we had nowhere to stay that night and no food with us. We stopped at a corner store to grab some basics but only managed to get a pre-packed jam-filled croissant as a breakfast at best.

    At this point, we had already passed the side roads that could have led us to one of the beaches we had marked. So, the following exit we found was a 7-minute drive to Lukova Beach.

    We wound our way down through a hillside covered in Olive trees to a short stretch of makeshift bars and a field of more olives behind. Like the other beaches, they all appeared to have been packed up and closed for the off-season.

    We had a wander around the strip and scoped out some possible spots to sleep. Realising that one of the bars had a few people in it we stopped by and asked if they were open. After grabbing a beer and going to pay the owner Guesti, he asked where we were staying. We explained that we hadn’t got any plans yet and also needed somewhere for dinner. Guesti looked around and stated that we could set up a tent anywhere we liked, and that he could cook us dinner as well. We accepted the offer and spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying our nice secluded beach to ourselves. We wandered around the olive grove with cows, goats, dogs and their pups, and even a cat that followed us down to the beach.

    Dinner was a delicious fresh spaghetti with a salad made by Guesti himself. And rather than a tent we set our sleeping mats up on the decking of an abandoned bar set over the water. That night was a complete full moon that made it like daylight all night. We woke up to a beautiful day and cows down on the sand and in the waves along the shore. We dropped back in to see Guesti who offered us a coffee and then went on to prepare an Albanian breakfast of eggs, bread, feta and olives. He also explained that from Lukova we could hike back to the beaches we’d skipped past the day before. And so our plans for the day were decided.    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 14

    Lukova to Kakoma Beach Hike, Albanian Ri

    October 29, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We started our adventure along the rocky coastline back towards Kakoma Beach. We had two pre-packaged croissants filled with jam and a bottle of water between us. Kakoma Beach was the perfect-looking bay we couldn’t drive into the day before. The Trail seemingly followed along a series of paths formed by livestock. Cows, goats, sheep. From the day before we knew that herds were regularly brought this way along the rocky coastline. At first, it was hard to tell if there was a Hiking Trail at all. Or whether we were just blindly following a cow trail and telling ourselves it was a trail. Regardless, if we simply kept the water on our right side then surely we couldn't go too wrong haha. After about 4km of bare rocky terrain, we came to some thorny bracken, then entered thick undergrowth. We descended a gully and emerged on a stunning remote beach. With nothing but a rusted old jetty, we had the beach to ourselves. We swam in the stunningly blue water. Then, we walked to the next rocky headland where we found several abandoned bars.

    The two beaches were basically the same but separated by a small rocky outcrop. Both beaches were only accessible by boat and had closed for the season. At the far end of this beach, we were faced with a massive cliff face. The issue was that Kakoma Beach, which we’d come this whole way for, was around this headland. Jessie had read an article that mentioned a 2-hour hike over the top of the headland but neither of us was that keen. Kinda out of nowhere, Jessie mentioned that we could swim around the headland. So we dumped our gear on the beach and started a slow breaststroke paddle around the head. After 25 minutes, and only one minor hyperventilation issue (where Jessie freaked out at the splash caused by her foot kicking the surface 😂) we made it to the Bay. It was completely isolated and abandoned once again. There was nothing to do apart from resting until swimming back.

    Eventually, we made it back to our bags and treated ourselves to our croissants for lunch. Then started the long hot walk back to the car. Arriving back at about 4 pm we found our car had a flat battery so needed to jump-start it. Then we drove into Himare to find some dinner.

    Hoping to find somewhere similar to our last night’s accommodation we had a simple dinner at the tavern and drove along the next couple beaches. Jale Beach looked amazing on the map. And some other beaches nearby appeared to be on smaller dirt tracks. Jale turned out to be a bit too built up so we explored along the coast dirt track which got within about 100m before the track got too rough for the hire car. We decided no more cars would come that evening so set up our sleeping mats on a lookout platform. Finally, we settled in for another night under the stars. Magical 🙌    Read more

  • TravelerAlbania
    Day 14–15

    Jale, Guma and Aquarium Beaches

    October 29, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The next morning we packed our makeshift “camp” up and drove back into Himare for a decent coffee and some breakfast Byreks. Grabbing some pre-made salad rolls for lunch we drove back to Guma Beach and walked around to Aquarium. This was by far the nicest beach we had seen. Perfectly clear water in a tiny bay with a secluded little beach. Absolute perfection.

    We enjoyed the sun for about an hour until more people came down and disturbed the serenity so we wandered over the headland to Guma Beach. It was just as stunning so we chilled out there for a while as well.    Read more

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