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Chilean Fjords & Rapa Nui
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Chilean Fjords & Rapa Nui

A 30-day adventure by Charlesi Read more
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    Seno Almirantazgo

    March 25, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Arriving here the conditions are not good and not expected to improve but we’re simply passing through on our way to Bahia Parry

    Not all the small branches of the main sound have been fully surveyed, but they are deep enough for approaches to the shoreline and Zodiac cruising

    Captain Parker King, during his expedition here in March 1826 named it Admiralty Sound, paying homage to the British Admiralty.

    Nowadays it is home to the only known Elephant Seal breeding colony in Chilean waters, a Black-browed Albatross nesting area, a small Leopard Seal population, and some of the most impressive bays and glaciers in the southernmost part of Patagonia. Good reason to spend time to cruising and have the chance to explore the surroundings.    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Bahia Parry

    March 25, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    One of the most picturesque and rugged Fjords in Tierra fel Fuego. It provides a glacial amphitheatre at its Southern end and features elevations between 1,000 - 2,000 m. The highest peak in the Fjords is Mount Shipton which stands at 2,568 m

    The amount of ice in the water indicates this is a glacier calving into the Fjords, as opposed to a glacier which is retreating

    Unfortunately it’s pouring with rain, it’s cold, visibility is very poor and all accompanied by a four mile Zodiac ride…needless to say Shackleton would be ashamed of me, I’m staying on board!

    11:00hrs and still pouring with rain, cold and misty but, having said that, the mountainous range surrounding us and shrouded like this is beautiful    Read more

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    Bahia Ainsworth

    March 25, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    We’re within the footprint of the Marinelli Glacier, again, incredibly eerie with the surrounding mountains shrouded in mist

    We took a flora walk at the foot of the mountains and spotted a Ringed Kingfisher, identified by Pete, nice one!

    Marinelli Glacier is the most beautiful and longest of all. It is the largest of those that spill down from the backbone of Darwin Mountain Range.

    After crossing the Magellan Strait, the flight goes into Whiteside Channel, between Dawson Island and Tierra del Fuego, at the southeast entrance of the channel. Here, a body of water called Bahía Inútil, leads to Almirantazgo Sound, along the Darwin Mountains to Ainsworth Bay, a coastal inlet where Marinelli Glacier is located. The enormous ice walls of the Marinelli Glacier are almost 40 meters high.    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Bahia del Aguila

    March 26, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Say what you like about Patagonia and the Chilean Fjords but you certainly get to see some sunrise and sunsets!

    Quiet day today just taking in the cruise views, updating FindPenguins, Travel Logs, Diaries and a bit of packing, bags all being collected tonight

    This afternoon on our way to Punto Arenas we saw a shoal of what we believe are Bluefin Tuna    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
    1This one is just for you Pete...

    Punta Arenas

    Mar 26–27, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Arrived and getting ready for a quick wander round the town…more about this later!

    We’ve spent time getting packed and trying to relax, at the same time, we managed to survived the Captains farewell drinks and auction, which raises money for local environmental charities and now resting in bed…early, and busy, day tomorrow with a wake up call at 05:45hrs, if such a time exists!?Read more

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    Santiago - Hotel Fundador

    Mar 27–31, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    What a welcome…actually it seems to be a protest regarding the lack of housing rather than a protest of our visit!

    After visiting really beautiful places ,like Punto Natales and Puerto Arenas, Santiago is initially disappointing, presenting as being a very ‘westernised’ city…I accept this is unfair based on a taxi drive from the airport so we will see! Watch this space…

    We have arrived at the Hotel Fundador after a journey, ship to hotel, of ten hours and we are…tired! So after a ‘snack’ of Chorrillana and a Margarita we collapsed in our bed…

    The population of Chile is 18,000,000 and 8,000,000 live in Santiago…think on it!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Plaza de Armas de Santiago de Chile

    March 28, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The Plaza is the main square in Santiago, the capital of Chile and is the heart of the city since it was founded, along with Santiago itself, in 1541

    Beautiful square with Palm Trees, the Cathedral of Santiago, the History of Chile Museum and other beautiful buildings including the Post Office. Vendors line parts of the Plaza, but it is a chill and lovely green space where you can happily people watch, you can meet the Mounted Police and Lady’s of the Night and errr, have a shower!

    OK, so no, rather Santiago is a third world city with western pretension which totally sacrifices their own cultural history and meaning

    Please Note: The video is, I sadly admit, unrelated to our visit    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Cerro Santa Lucia

    March 28, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    On the way to the Cerro Santa Lucia we passed by the Basilica de la Merced which is another beautiful Church in Santiago, as indeed is the Santa Domingo Church…

    This hill is actually quite the historical locale. First off, It is the remnant of a 15 million year old volcano. Secondly, the conquistadors used it as a lookout point when they were conquering Chile. It was atop this hill that Pedro de Valdivia declared the founding of Santiago in 1541. In 1872, governer Benjamin Vickuna Mackenna decided to turn the hill into a park to commemorate its significance in the city’s history. Since then, it has undergone many renovations. Today, it comprises 65,300 square meters, replete with bronze gates, metal stairways, and various fountains and statue

    Considering the size of it, on the City Map, it feels huge, it is quite incredible and with the many paths and steps we were fully aware of it’s 70m height

    Fabulous, but hard on such a hot day, 30+ C a beer at the top would be fabulous…    Read more

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    Club Paris

    March 28, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After a shower, much needed in this unusual March weather, we wandered off to see a bit of the Santiago evening and find a fine eatery

    After much deliberation we decided on the Club Paris, thoughtfully chosen because we could stagger back quite easily from there…

    What a great choice, we had a Payasito de Fuego and a Bruja Malvada wander through our midst!    Read more

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    Palacia de la Moneda

    March 29, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Opened in 1805, La Moneda was originally designed to be a coin mint. However, it was quickly turned into the residence of the Chilean president and a center of presidential administration. La Moneda became infamous on Sept. 11, 1973, when military forces of the dictator Augusto Pinochet bombarded the palace, resulting in the death of the then-president Salvador Allende.

    Underneath Palacia de la Moneda is La Moneda Cultural Center. The centre houses exhibition galleries, a cafe, and shops selling authentic Chilean crafts. Quite an amazing place and huge inside although, I believe, it’s actually under the garden frontage of the Palacio la Moneda. There was an exhibition of children’s programmes in Chile when we visited    Read more

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    Cathedral of Santiago

    March 29, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We returned to Le Plaza de Armas de Santiago de Chile for lunch and also because we wanted to visit the Santiago Cathedral Museum which allows you to look into the history and art of the Cathedral, through different spaces and temporary exhibitions.

    It is notoriously difficult to locate which was a moot point because there was a huge Mass going on so difficult to mosy around we did, however, enjoy the dancing, the ambience and the Mounted Police horses in La Plaza

    The dancing was really fun but, naughtily, we were quietly giggling at the dancers in red, on the left, who were clearly just enjoying themselves…why bother with remembering the dance step!?    Read more

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    Dragon tree at entrance to St Lucia HillView from top of St Lucia hillMausoleum of founder at St Lucia hillHill topMausoleumEntrance to fine art museumGraffiti everywhere

    Laineys’ Escapades

    March 30, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I should just say the temperatures indicated, on FindPenguins, are actually lower than the temperatures we are actually experiencing!

    Today, being our last in Santiago, needed some preparation what with Visas for Rapa Nui, Boarding Cards and packing so Lainey sailed very bravely off back to Santa Lucia Hill and the National Museum of Fine Arts whilst I got on with the housekeeping, someone has to!

    Lovely morning but very hot walking around. The view from the top of St Lucia Hill was worth the climb. The Fine Art Museum was an absolutely beautiful building but the art inside was rubbish. I went back to the Cathedral to try to find the museum of religious antiquities but think it must have closed down. I then returned to the hotel to take Charles for a drink who’d done a fabulous job with the paperwork. We had a drink in a street cafe, Red Bar, then a little siesta.

    Fair to say the graffiti here is sometimes great but all too often spoilt by ‘nobodies’ who simply want to deface, there is quite a bit of an anti-authoritarian attitude but that’s about par for the course, especially somewhere with such a volitile history

    We have a 05:45hrs transfer to Santiago Airport so an early night is an idea, we are however heading back to the Red Bar for dinner, high on our list is a traditional Chilean dish, ‘Chicken & Chips’, which, I am told, they do rather well here but actually we had the Pork Ribs and the best chips ever!    Read more

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    Santiago Domestic Aeropuerto

    March 31, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Well we made it this far thanks to our fabulous taxi driver, it’s unfortunate we didn’t have him drive us on our arrival he was full of great information and the places to visit in Santiago

    Our flight is at 09:25hrs so a cool relaxing beer while we wait sadly LATAM Airlines don’t have a Business Lounge so we have to slum it!

    It’s 08:25hrs and just boarding our Boeing B787-9…next stop Rapa Nui!    Read more

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    Mataveri International Airport

    Mar 31–Apr 5, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Otherwise known as Rapa Nui Airport, or Easter Island Airport or even Isla de Pascua Airport this is the most remote airfield in the world. Upon being met you are given a most beautiful necklace of typical flowers to welcome you to Rapa Nui.

    Met promptly at the airport and adorned with our necklace of flowers, we were taken to our hotel, Altiplanico, room is quite basic, there’s no fridge or air conditioning, we have an open air shower and a floor level bed, which will be fun during the night journeys! It’s very like the place we stayed in St Vincent’s really so no great surprises

    After settling in we went for a swim and just relax after our early start and journey. We came back to our ‘hut’ about 2 hours later for a snooze, when we woke we realised that we only just avoided sunburn, we’re both very red and aware so on goes the Aloe Vera and loads of water

    When we went for dinner George, barman and waiter etc, told us it’s important to put on sun cream day and night and even when raining

    Funny thing that somewhere you always find someone with their Willy hanging out!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
    Image of two facing Tangata-Manu

    Orono National Park

    April 1, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We met our guide today his name is Teatahalo Tuki, called Teata and pronounced ‘Tee-at-a’. Seems a nice enough guy, apparently independent and good English which is a Godsend!

    Manutara the annual visit of these birds to Moto Nui in September marked the beginning of the Birdman Ritual. The men from each tribe were to scramble down a hillock which led to a steep precipice climb down and then swim the mile to Moto Nui, then scale the cliffs and collect the Manutara egg. Holding this in a special pouch held on their forehead they climbed back down the cliff swam back to Rapa Nui to climb back up the sheer rock face to ‘the village’, which is the point the Birdman Ritual commences and finishes. The first one back, with an unbroken egg, earned their Clan Chief the right to rule Rapa Nui for one year. All clans were expected to pay homepage and abide by the ruling of the Tangata-Manu (winning Clan Chief)

    Once the Tangata-Manu was determined, he lived in isolation for the period attended only by the Ivi Matuia. There were several ‘Tapu’, or prohibitions, surrounding him:

    * Nobody could approach or look at him
    * Only the Ivi Matua could provide him with food or bathe him
    * He couldn’t wash himself, or cut his hair and nails

    The Birdman is a ‘ceremonial’ village, of 53 houses, was only occupied during the competition, each tribe had their own ‘house’ in which the Clan representatives resided during the Birdman Ritual, they were uninhabited for the remainder of the year

    On our way round Lainey slipped on the pathway, which was plastic filled with rubble, commonly called a Gravel Grid, and was clearly a bit shocked but felt ok to continue after a brief pause…    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
    Showing Quarry, some 18 miles away

    Vina Pu

    April 1, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    From Orono we visit a place called Vina Pu this is a Moai mount, unrestored, that appears to suggest a Peruvian influence in its structure. These walls are incredibly typical of this influence and it is unimaginable how they could achieve such close fitting precision joints at that time

    The Moai were mounted on these platforms but those that were have long since been torn down and destroyed

    The primary religion in Rapa Nui today is Catholic introduced in 1863 and locally pronounced Cat’holic, somehow sounds appropriate

    It should be noted that from here we can just see the Quarry which is some 18 miles away, picture 5

    We cut this visit short because I checked with Lainey, how she was and about her wrist, and could see it was becoming quite swollen and Lainey agreed that it was also becoming painful so I told Teata we should go to the A&E to have this checked out…    Read more

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    Hanga Roa Hospital I

    April 1, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Hanga Roa Hospital, visited after Lainey slipped at Vina Pu, due to the pathway having plastic webbing (Gravel Grid) which was incredibly slippy!

    Unwilling to cut short the day Lainey insisted we carry on after her fall at Orono but it soon became clear, during our visit to Vina Pu, due to the amount of swelling, that we needed to get this checked so…here we are at Rapa Nui A&E, Hanga Roa Hospital. They staff were really good and discovered a double fracture…the wrist was plastered up and we returned to Altiplanico just over 4 hours later with an appointment to go back to see the Orthopaedic Consultant tomorrow morning at 10:00hrs

    …followed by George and a BEER! He does look like ‘The Doctor’ on Star Trek Voyager doesn’t he?    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Tahai Ceremonial Complex

    April 2, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    First thing this morning we returned to Hang Rio Hospital, at 10:00hrs, for Lainey to have her wrist checked, once there they take her for an Ultrasound which appears to confirm, my first thoughts anyway, that the heamatoma should be drawn off to reduce the pressure on the nerves affecting the thumb and two adjoining fingers which is causing the numbness and pain This means a small operation under LA which is to be carried out tomorrow morning, we are to be at the Clinic for 08:00hrs, hopefully and depending on how Lainey is feeling we may yet visit the remaining areas tomorrow

    From the hospital we went onto the Tahai Ceremonial Complex, Tahai is a site with several Abu’s and Moai close to Hanga Roa, which was restored in 1974 and comprises three principal Ahu, Ko Te Riki (with restored eyes), Tahai and Val Ure. One of the few places on Rapa Nui where the sun sets behind the statues (Moai

    From here we called into visit the reproduced village, Hana Te E Vai Hu, here you can walk up to and really get a feel for the way these were built. The chicken houses were really intriguing as indeed where the ‘greenhouses’ where they raise the seedling before planting out    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
    Lainey wanted her picture next to a Moai with a nose like mine!

    Rano Raraku Trail

    April 2, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    Each Moai, which means Statue, takes approximately one year to complete and transport, the Moai that have fallen while being transported are abandoned and, apart from the impossibility of raising them, they are said to no longer hold the ‘soul’ and the process is repeated. What I understood, from being here, is the Moai still standing are waiting to be transported and that’s why they face the sea. It is quite sad seeing the fallen Moai…

    The largest Moai is located here in Rano Raraku Quarry, called El Gigante it is 21.60 metres high and estimated to weigh 170 metric tons

    The ‘Three Moai’ are still in the rock face and show clearly how they are hewn from the rock face, I have only shown the one Moai, for clarity, but it is reminiscent of the Egyptians carving the Obelisk except carving in from the side rather than the top    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Hanga Roa Hospital II

    April 3, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    We arrived just in time, 08:02hrs, and met up with the Anaesthetist and the options were explained, then the Orthopaedic Consultant arrived and explained the haematoma was actually underneath the tendon and nerves and to release the pressure we were looking at Carpel Tunnel, so the agenda changed a little and the procedure is now going to be undertaken GA.

    Once we chatted about it all was well, Lainey knows I’ve had both my wrists done and had no problems at all so she has signed everything, a little apprehensively as she doesn’t like GA or needles, and she’s now in theatre, went in about 08:55hrs, and they expect to be finished in a couple of hours! Happily the hospital coffee is quite palatable!!

    All is good, the operation went very well and surgeon was pleased with outcome. Went to see Lainey and, a little tearful, but good, some slight sensation and still painful but the swelling has gone so that’s excellent.

    I’m now back at the hotel looking to see if we can get earlier flight back to the UK, as I think this will be too much to carry on the remainder of the holiday…we’ll at least see if it’s possible anyway!

    I returned to collect Lainey from the hospital at 14:30hrs, so a quiet evening I think, then a final checkup, which will probably be tomorrow afternoon as, having spoken to Sharon our Travel Agent, we fly out to Santiago on Friday morning    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Altiplanico Hotel

    April 4, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    So this is where we’ve been staying in Rapa Nui, it’s what’s called an Eco Hotel, I’ll let you figure that one out!

    We’ve decided to bring forward our flights to UK and will be departing Buenos Aires on the 07 April, instead of the 09 April 2024. Seating is limited and we’re just hoping we can grab them, will know soon…

    Having a quiet day today so we’re calling into the Museo Antropologico this morning, it’s said to be really good so looking forward to that. This afternoon we have a final pre-flight checkup at the hospital, although we already have our ‘Certificado’ for the LATAM Airlines

    I have attached pictures of our Hut, Teata Tuki (our guide) and one of the many mealtime companions, who can actually see around bends!

    We also had our final checkup at the hospital, at 16:00hrs, and a recast, ready for travelling, we really have to say that the staff are amazing, really friendly, helpful and reassuring. An especial note goes to Fernando. Gutierrez Peña, the orthopaedic surgeon, who was fabulous

    Now for some Botany from Lainey…

    I’ve never seen such huge hibiscus flowers they’re like dinner plates and all colours! The rest is all our favourite tropical house plants, only bush and tree sized!

    There are also mango trees here absolutely dripping with mangos, unfortunately not quite ripe.    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Return to Rapa Nui Airport

    April 5, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    A little mixed here as we do feel it’s best to get back and make sure all is well but, obviously, sad because we didn’t get to see some of the things we’d expected.

    Yesterday we did however manage to squeeze in a last minute visit to the Museo Antropologico which was quite fascinating but also somewhat contradictory in regard to the displayed information…Rapa Nui is a sequence of hard evidence but the speculation in joining that information together is hugely disputed amongst professionals and locals alikeRead more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Rapa Nui Airport - Return

    April 5, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So we’re now back at the airport for our return to UK Gatwick via Santiago, Buenos Aires and Frankfurt. Something of an early start as flight only departs at 14:35hrs but at least we won’t be late!

    We’re bringing back some tasters of Manumeri Honey, the bees, on Rapa Nui, are said to be the healthiest on the planet and the honey quite unique!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Pacific Ocean Return

    April 6, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    So then we’re now travelling from Napa Rui to Buenos Aires on our Boeing B787-9, which is rather smart

    As you can see we’re travelling at 591mph at an altitude of 41,000ft, the air temperature, outside I glad to say, is -54C and our eta is 19:12hrs

    I’m continuing with my documentary, ARA San Juan, ‘The Submarine That Disappeared’ and Lainey’s reading her book, ‘The Whispering Land’ enjoying our drink    Read more

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