Coimbra University

Doug planned a detailed itinerary today starting with an Uber ride direct to the bus station with our luggage. Bus trip to Coimbra was 1.5 hrs, then put luggage into storage at the station, Uber to the university to meet our guide Renan Souza (RM Tours booked through Trip Advisor) at 10am for a two hour walking tour of the Coimbra University and the old town. Renan has his Bachelors and Masters in Portuguese History and is working on a PhD in Museology. To say he is passionate about his work is an understatement ; he knew so many dates and intertwined events off the top of his head. He came here to study from Brazil, he is the first in his family to go to university and his favourite place in Europe and where he'd like to work is the Borghese Gallery in Rome.

Coimbra is between Porto and Lisbon and the site of a Roman town and the home of a public research university. First established in Lisbon in 1290, it went through a number of relocations until moving permanently to Coimbra in 1537. The university is among the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world, the oldest in Portugal. In 2013, UNESCO declared the university a World Heritage Site, noting its architecture, unique culture and traditions, and historical role.

As mentioned many times by our guide, the reviled dictator Antonio de Salazar, was a prof here. He was the the PM of Portugal from 1932-1968 - authoritarian govt rule until the revolution of 1974. Mentioned numerous times was the Marques de Pombau who remains a controversial figure. On the one hand, this reformer who believed in rationality and science, ousted the power of the religious orders (Renan says the Dominican monks in particular were "bad") and brought reform, he was so paternalistic that he himself was exiled by "Maria the Mad" i.e. mad at him for his criticism of her father. Note "dungeon" where members of the university could be imprisoned up to six months (being allowed under university guard - to attend classes only) for any "misbehavior" ranging from not meeting the curfew time to political opinion. The organ is in the Royal Chapel as the impressive building on the square was once the Royal Palace of the King of Portugal.Read more