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SW Europe 2023
  • Nancy and Doug Trips
Apr – Jun 2023

SW Europe 2023

A 62-day adventure by Nancy and Doug Trips Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 22, 2023
    Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Portas da Cidade (City Gates)Avenida Infante Dom HenriqueForte de São BrásIgreja de São José

    Ponta Delgada

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We landed on time at 06:30am, but so did all the other flights from Canada and the US, so they first held us on the plane for a bit until there was room in the customs hall to line up at Passport Control. There are only 3 immigration officers so it was near 08:00 when we jumped in a cab for the 10 minute ride to our hotel.

    The Casa da Graca is very nice with 9 rooms, very professionally owned by a husband and wife team and we were met by Sergio, owner. Our room was actually available for us to check in (very nice! - we were tired and it was quite rainy) so we were able to unload our luggage and organize for a walk, then went around the corner for a coffee and cheese sandwich.

    We then headed out for a walk in the rain. Noted immediately a feature we were to see all over Portugal, but was perhaps nicest here in Ponta Delgado -- the white and black mosaic patterns on all the sidewalks.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Igreja de Sao Pedro

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Our first stop was just around the corner, but the doors were not open. Luckily, they were open later when we coming back, so got a chance to see the interior. The church is typical of those we see on Sao Miguel with stucco and beam exteriors and much carved, often gilded, wood.

    The construction work of the church started in the 15th century and continued for more than two centuries. Over the period, several structural changes were made to the building before it acquired its present form.

    Among the main highlights of the church include the Mannerist-style portico that dates back from the 16th century, a richly ornamented high altar, a statue of St. Pedro (St. Peter) to whom the church is dedicated, and originally gilded woodcarving.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Mercado da Graça

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We noted people walking down a road carrying groceries and Market Day was on. This market was set up in the lower level of a parking lot and Doug later found out that it was the overflow from the main market which was across another street, but was interesting just the same. Of interest were the small pineapples locally grown. On the tour of the island the next day we learned that the island produces 30% of Portugal's milk. We also had local mineral water at lunch and our accommodation gives us access to a locally made Licour de Amor (blackberry).This includes the processing and as I type this I've used Nova Acores milk (all UHT packaged) in my coffee and the yoghurt served this morning also local.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Church of St. Sebastian

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    The skies opened up on our way to our next stop, so we were happy to take refuge inside the first church of our 2023 trip.

    It was constructed in the 16th century as homage to the revered saint after a plague had struck the city and the residents pledged to build a church.
    The church is one of the finest examples of Azorean architecture, comprising of white walls with trimmings made with black basalt. The façade reflects the changes of styles in the architecture of churches in Portugal. It is said to be an amalgamation of Gothic, Baroque, and Manueline styles. It was hard to appreciate any Gothic elements: Romanesque style with arches, no large windows, or stained glass. One can see the Royal Weapons and a shield with the arrows, which depict the martyrdom of St. Sebastian, carved on the façade. In the south façade of the church, one can see two busts which apparently depict King João III and Queen Catarina. The exquisite altar crafted intricately from gilded wood is one of the highlights of the church. We came to appreciate that all the subsequent churches on the Azores have certain features: white plastered exterior walls with black basalt stones bordering, Romanesque style with detailed Baroque wood carved alters that are painted gold (except the Jesuit church alter, the largest in Portugal of its type but not finished, not painted). Porcelain figures are often seen, particularly of the Madonna and child both wearing crowns and there are usually a cluster of cherub faced angels looking at them from the base. Even more modern Madonna and child figurines in tourist shops portrayed them with a crown.    Read more

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    Museu Carlos Machado Santo Andre Centre

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    The museum is housed in the former convent with a cloister which closed after the last nun died in 1894. The nuns took vows of obedience, poverty, chastity and uphold the sacredness of life. This convent depicted them as living a life inside the church/cloister separated from the rest of society and it does not mention any particular charitable work that they did. Of particular interest was a large area overlooking the church floor and altar which was wrought iron barred was also defined by iron work and the outer perimeter of the area was lined with built in chairs where the nuns would meet in prayer several times a day. One imagines that when community masses took place, the nuns would overlook the scene but clearly be separated from it. Similarly, in the separate prayer rooms there are double layers of ironwork separating the nuns from the passing scenes on the street.
    The introductory exhibit was an interesting timeline of Azorean important dates along side other dates and events in world history. A large part of the museum was about natural history, especially a huge collection of taxidermy preserved animals and birds.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Museu Carlos Machado Sacred Arts Center

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The museum has three sites, and this was the second one we visited.

    It is the former College Church of the Jesuits. In the 16th century, the Society of Jesus expanded to the Azores. The Church of the Jesuit’s College of Ponta Delgada, first stone was laid on November 1st, 1592, It is of Baroque style, with exuberant decorative elements in its façade, made of volcanic stone, but also in the carving of the altarpiece and in the tile panels from the 17th century. After the Jesuits expulsion 150 years after its founding, this church and valuable artistic estate, was deprived of much of its religious items and tools, which either disappeared or were integrated in other temples on the island. In 1834, the church was acquired from the State, by Nicolau Maria Raposo de Amaral, owner of the Jesuit’s College, by paternal inheritance. After 139 years, his descendants and heirs donated the Church, to the City Council of Ponta Delgada, which decided to give the space to the Regional Government of the Azores, in 1977, for the Sacred Art Center of the Carlos Machado Museum, approved in 2004. It is the largest carved alter piece in Portugal, unfinished and one notes that like other similar churches in the city we visited, it would have likely been finished with gold paint.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Convento de Nossa Senhora da Esperança

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Convent of Our Lady of Hope (outside decorated with anchors) was built in the 16th century, and underwent many changes in the succeeding four hundred years, including the addition of the quadrangular tower with different levels of windows.

    Inside are the azulejo tile panel scenes dated at various times in the 1600s and the gilded woodwork that covers the baroque-style main altar inside. Christ’s image is encompassed by a grand collection of jewels, which have been accumulating since the 18th century. The repertoire includes a crown of thorns encrusted with ruby and diamond, sheaf of corn, cane, and a scepter. Intricate silver lamps hang from the ceiling.

    The altarpiece of the main altar Our Lady of Hope with a child in the lap, from where the church gets its name.

    With this last church, we decided we'd had enough looking around for the day. Our lunch at Lan's (very good pizza €21) had held us well. We returned to Casa de Graca for a rest and for dinner headed to Tasca (highly recommended, too busy when we got there) but sat down at a nice spot nearby called O Churrasco (€32) featuring grilling over hardwood (Nancy really enjoyed her "fork-beard" fish served with potatoes, vegetables and rice). Then home, Penguins entry, hot shower (have to wait a long time for things to warm up in an 18th century building!) and to bed as we had booked a tour bright and early for Day 2.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Santa Barbara

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Manuel from Pure Azores tours picked us up at 0900 hrs and we returned at 1700 hrs after a great day despite less than ideal weather. We did not encounter much rain, however wind, mist, fog and dense cloud which persisted at all higher elevation scenic look out points. We had been somewhat prepared for the possibility having watched windblown people on YouTube and looking at the weather forecast a couple days out. Despite this, the guide and company and lower elevation itinerary made us feel the tour $ spent (about 200 CDN including lunch) was worth it. We were joined by Deb from Austin TX, Ann from Buffalo, HY and John and Suzanna from Massachusetts. First place we stopped at was this surfing centre.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Ponta do Cintrao

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    This was on the North Coast directly opposite Ponta Delgada where we are staying, which is the largest city in the Azores, has the international airport and has 50% of the islands' 240,000 "persons" population Manuel told us. This point has a small building from where you can watch whales. Whaling was done by individual harpoon as late as 1984 and lit homes before kerosene and fed many farm animals. Previously the occupations were primarily fishing and farming. Tourism is on the climb up and to some degree is outstripping the resources on the island. Garbage is shipped off and Manuel says June/July/August are to be avoided as there are not enough restaurants etc. AirBnB's are taking accommodation off the local market and the government has now put a stop to any further expansion.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Ribeira Grande

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    This town is the 2nd largest after Ponta Delgada and Doug and I were both impressed with the main square and lovely ravine community park boasting waterfall, tennis court, children's playground, garden and walking paths. Given the proximity to Ponta Delgada we thought the charm might make it just a bit nicer to stay in than the main city. We did not go into the church but had a birds eye view of the square which Manuel explained was the way all Portuguese towns are laid out all over the world, even in Macau. Church at the high point to add to the majesty, the square below with patterning of white and black and if there was news to give the people they would meet there in the bandstand. Large Australian "Christmas trees" (deciduous) were planted to provide shelter from both rain and sun.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Plants will grow anywhere

    Salto do Cabrito

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We then travelled through the misty country and down a steep windy incline into a ravine. While on our way Manuel told us that the Azores is quite self sufficient in energy production. At the base of a ravine we could view this 30 m high waterfall (in two parts) with a pretty stream below which supplied the water flow for a small hydro station that generates 680KW of electricity. We are told this is one of 7 such small plants on Sao Miguel. As we arrived at this park, we also passed by large pipes bringing hot water to one of the two geothermal plants which supply 40% of the islands energy. There is also some wind energy although on our tour today we did not see any windmills but we certainly felt a lot of powerful wind!Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Yes, this is the view over the volcano!

    Lagoa do Fogo

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Lake of Fire -- named about a hundred years after the Portuguese first settled the island when an unexpected volcanic eruption happened in the seemingly peaceful lake. The volcanoes are still active, but the last eruption was in 1957.
    The fog and mist at the top was very thick as you can see! There was a fine mist on our coats as we returned to the car.....on the bright side it was not raining!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Lagoa Lunch

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Lagoa is along the southern shore of the island, just east of Ponta Delgada. The tour included a very nice buffet lunch at this restaurant. As it was Sunday, Manuel told us that there would be "Portuguese typico" dishes. Nancy tried the octopus in red wine and found it delicious! She had never had octopus before but having watched a show on how intelligent these creatures can be along with many others we eat presents a dilemma. We had a dish made from salt cod for the first time, also very good and a very nice coleslaw mix but thicker strips of cabbage, carrots and red peppers in an oil/vinegar dressing; the same mixture was delicious as a sauteed vegetable the night before. All of the desserts were a whipped cream type sundae. Drinks offered included "green wine" young carbonated, very refreshing. Appetizer was quesco fresca (fresh cheese) and St George's cheese (unpasteurized) and very nice bread.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Another accurate depiction of the view of the lakes from near the top.
    On the shores of the blue lagoon.This is what it SHOULD look like. Next time!

    Sete Cidades

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    The two lagoons are actually part of a single very very large volcanic caldera Legend has it that the Sete Cidades lagoon owes its colors to the tears of a princess and a shepherd. Daughter of the king of this enchanted land, the young princess met a shepherd during her stroll through a field with whom she began spending each of her days speaking to. They fell madly in love. Having discovered this, the father, who had already planned his daughter's marriage with a prince from a neighboring kingdom, forbade the princess from seeing the shepherd again, conceding her one final encounter. That was when the princess, whose eyes were blue, and the shepherd, whose eyes were green, cried so much that they gave origin to the blue and green lagoons, respectively. In truth, the smaller, green lagoon simply reflects the color of the dense vegetation that surrounds it, and the blue lagoon, on fair weather days, reflects the blue skies.

    For us, not so fair weather, so have to sub in a pic from the web!!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Mosteiros

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    The village of Mosteiros is a seaside village on the northwestern shore that has a dramatic rocky shoreline and sea stacks that sit just off the shore. The village is named after thee rocks -- the 'monastery' that a priest and nun were trying to run off together, but were turned to stone.

    Next stop to the west....the US East Coast (about northern Florida). Most Azoreans head still to North America rather than Europe if they choose to leave the island. Manuel advised that many are coming back as there is more opportunity and the islands only have a 2-3% unemployment rate and that "basically if you want to work you can get a job". However, accommodation is getting more expensive as mentioned before and thus the limitation on more of it going towards tourist accommodation and pricing out the local people. This was our last stop for the day and everyone had agreed despite the weather we had gotten a lot out of our tour with many generous tips and a chance for Doug to get a sense of driving the Island to Furnas tomorrow.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    GPX

    Day 2 Overview

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We booked a van tan tour of the central and western island with Pure Azores Tours though GetYourGuide. Total of six in the van.

    Cloudy with just a brief sunny period in the morning. Tracked 113 km on GPS but didn't start tracking until Santa Barbara, so add 10km. Just 8,175 steps walking.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Museu da Emigração Açoreana

    April 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    This was the highlight of the day and it was pouring while we were in the museum. It was well presented and we spent 2 hour looking at the exhibits. There were multiple reasons why Azoreans emigrated. First of all, land ownership initially was held by only a few so the common man basically lived in poverty and could not get ahead. Men joined the whaling activities of the 1800s and the Cod fishing industry and jumped ship to North America. Portugal's involvement in protecting its interests in Africa (The Portuguese Colonial War, 1961-1974) and the worry about loosing one's offspring forced many to emigrate. The Portuguese government encouraged the diaspora to Brazil to help protect its interests there. Then many left in the 60s following the eruption of a volcano that caused many to lose their homes etc. 70% of the approximately 550,000 Portuguese in Canada trace their ties to the Azores and its is said that there is not one family on the island that has not had some of its family members move to North America (with all the uncertainty and personal emotional toll involved in any emigrant migration). They brought the ukulele to Hawaii and a unifying tradition is the celebration of the Holy Ghost Fiesta dating back to the 14th century that is symbolized by the dove and olive branch.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Furnas

    April 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We initially thought we'd go to the Terra Nostra Hotel for lunch and then visit the botanical garden and hot springs. However, it was difficult to find due to a detour confusing Google maps and after we ended up doing the same circuit a few times Nancy decided we were no longer having fun and we decided to head back to town. Besides, Trip Advisor reported Terra Nostra garden was under reno, the change rooms were now makeshift and the water could discolour both your bathing suit and hair orange...... pass in favor of a hot shower back at Casa da Graca. We stopped at this spot for lunch - they had a lot of the stew pots done underground in the volcano heat (cozido) and Nancy ordered the "stew soup" (of the same ingredients) at 25% of the price given the portion for one of cozido that the waiter deemed neither Doug nor I capable of finishing. It consisted of two types of sausage, some meat, cabbage, greens, sweet potato and carrots and had a bit of a smoky flavour - pretty much as expected. Doug and I agreed it was a "been there done" that tourist experience. Doug had a cheese/salami tray which was more than he could finish. We both agreed that the bread in Portugal is quite good.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Cha Gorreana

    April 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This was the largest of the two tea plantations on Sao Miguel and the only two plantations in Europe. They were established in the late 1800's when Chinese people came and taught the methods of cultivation and harvest. Of interest, the plants are all the same but the difference in processing produces either black or green tea and the youngest top leaves are "orange pekoe" (most expensive), the next sized leaf the "pekoe" and a mixture is called "broken leaf". We bought some broken leaf and orange pekoe at the first tea producer, Formosa which was smaller than Gorreana (which was quite over run by tourists all seeking indoor things to do with the weather and then sitting out to enjoy the sun that had finally peeked through). Overall, the tea produced here seemed to have less tannin than typical black/green teas at home, no bitterness and it was not really in need of either sugar or milk.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Santo Antonio Pineapple Plantation

    April 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    In the early 1900s pineapples were imported from Venezuela and a labour and time intensive way was developed for growing them in a greenhouse. There are 3 plantations on the Island, apparently now heavily subsidized by the government as a historical/agritourism attraction. It takes a series of 3 transplants and pruning and about 2.5 years to grow a pineapple. Of interest all of them in the greenhouse are forced to bloom at once (which leads to the fruit) on exposure of to ethylene gas. They are smaller and rounder than the pineapples grow in fields in tropical climates. The one we bought cost €7 which would never made for an agriculturally profitable product, tasted pretty similar but was nicely ripe with more pineapple fragrance before cutting than the typical North American store bought pineapple.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    GPX

    Day 3 Overview

    April 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was our driving tour of the central/east part. Picked up a Ford Fiesta at 8:30 from Ilha Verde car rental. Weather was very wet from the start.

    Got some clear views of the north coast on the way home.

    Did 100 km of driving and almost nothing on foot (7,802 steps) except looking for dinner in Ponta Delgado. Generally restaurants here open 1830-1900 hrs so we decided to cheap out and buy some eggs and just made omelets for dinner rather than go out again for dinner. Tomorrow is our early flight to Porto.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Arrival in Porto

    April 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Taxi was on time and picked us up at 7 to take us to the airport. Check in smooth. Half hour delay after boarding due to fog too dense to take off, but smooth flight of about 2 hrs to Porto.

    The Metro from the airport took us to the centre of town (get off at Trinidad station) and we walked up and down, down and up cobbled lanes to get to our apartment as we had arranged a 1-2pm arrival, but nobody was there. Found a gelateria and had sit down while we continued to try to reach the owner. He advised he forgot to the send the codes to get in....was never planning to be on site as we had understood. Finally got codes and got in about 3:30. Accommodation adequate, good bed, clean. Other tourists going in and out the buildings, definitely an area of redevelopment with buildings empty and derelict looking next to others that are being lived in and renovated. Everywhere it is like this, an old, old city, very narrow streets, tuk tuks taking tourists about, some renovated buildings, most not although outside appearances can be deceiving.

    Porto is very photogenic.    Read more

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