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Europe 2023

April - June 2023
A 62-day adventure by Nancy and Doug Trips Read more
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  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Ponta Delgada

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We landed on time at 06:30am, but so did all the other flights from Canada and the US, so they first held us on the plane for a bit until there was room in the customs hall to line up at Passport Control. There are only 3 immigration officers so it was near 08:00 when we jumped in a cab for the 10 minute ride to our hotel.

    The Casa da Graca is very nice with 9 rooms, very professionally owned by a husband and wife team and we were met by Sergio, owner. Our room was actually available for us to check in (very nice! - we were tired and it was quite rainy) so we were able to unload our luggage and organize for a walk, then went around the corner for a coffee and cheese sandwich.

    We then headed out for a walk in the rain. Noted immediately a feature we were to see all over Portugal, but was perhaps nicest here in Ponta Delgado -- the white and black mosaic patterns on all the sidewalks.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Igreja de Sao Pedro

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Our first stop was just around the corner, but the doors were not open. Luckily, they were open later when we coming back, so got a chance to see the interior. The church is typical of those we see on Sao Miguel with stucco and beam exteriors and much carved, often gilded, wood.

    The construction work of the church started in the 15th century and continued for more than two centuries. Over the period, several structural changes were made to the building before it acquired its present form.

    Among the main highlights of the church include the Mannerist-style portico that dates back from the 16th century, a richly ornamented high altar, a statue of St. Pedro (St. Peter) to whom the church is dedicated, and originally gilded woodcarving.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Mercado da Graça

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We noted people walking down a road carrying groceries and Market Day was on. This market was set up in the lower level of a parking lot and Doug later found out that it was the overflow from the main market which was across another street, but was interesting just the same. Of interest were the small pineapples locally grown. On the tour of the island the next day we learned that the island produces 30% of Portugal's milk. We also had local mineral water at lunch and our accommodation gives us access to a locally made Licour de Amor (blackberry).This includes the processing and as I type this I've used Nova Acores milk (all UHT packaged) in my coffee and the yoghurt served this morning also local.Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Church of St. Sebastian

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    The skies opened up on our way to our next stop, so we were happy to take refuge inside the first church of our 2023 trip.

    It was constructed in the 16th century as homage to the revered saint after a plague had struck the city and the residents pledged to build a church.
    The church is one of the finest examples of Azorean architecture, comprising of white walls with trimmings made with black basalt. The façade reflects the changes of styles in the architecture of churches in Portugal. It is said to be an amalgamation of Gothic, Baroque, and Manueline styles. It was hard to appreciate any Gothic elements: Romanesque style with arches, no large windows, or stained glass. One can see the Royal Weapons and a shield with the arrows, which depict the martyrdom of St. Sebastian, carved on the façade. In the south façade of the church, one can see two busts which apparently depict King João III and Queen Catarina. The exquisite altar crafted intricately from gilded wood is one of the highlights of the church. We came to appreciate that all the subsequent churches on the Azores have certain features: white plastered exterior walls with black basalt stones bordering, Romanesque style with detailed Baroque wood carved alters that are painted gold (except the Jesuit church alter, the largest in Portugal of its type but not finished, not painted). Porcelain figures are often seen, particularly of the Madonna and child both wearing crowns and there are usually a cluster of cherub faced angels looking at them from the base. Even more modern Madonna and child figurines in tourist shops portrayed them with a crown.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Museu Carlos Machado Santo Andre Centre

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    The museum is housed in the former convent with a cloister which closed after the last nun died in 1894. The nuns took vows of obedience, poverty, chastity and uphold the sacredness of life. This convent depicted them as living a life inside the church/cloister separated from the rest of society and it does not mention any particular charitable work that they did. Of particular interest was a large area overlooking the church floor and altar which was wrought iron barred was also defined by iron work and the outer perimeter of the area was lined with built in chairs where the nuns would meet in prayer several times a day. One imagines that when community masses took place, the nuns would overlook the scene but clearly be separated from it. Similarly, in the separate prayer rooms there are double layers of ironwork separating the nuns from the passing scenes on the street.
    The introductory exhibit was an interesting timeline of Azorean important dates along side other dates and events in world history. A large part of the museum was about natural history, especially a huge collection of taxidermy preserved animals and birds.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Museu Carlos Machado Sacred Arts Center

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The museum has three sites, and this was the second one we visited.

    It is the former College Church of the Jesuits. In the 16th century, the Society of Jesus expanded to the Azores. The Church of the Jesuit’s College of Ponta Delgada, first stone was laid on November 1st, 1592, It is of Baroque style, with exuberant decorative elements in its façade, made of volcanic stone, but also in the carving of the altarpiece and in the tile panels from the 17th century. After the Jesuits expulsion 150 years after its founding, this church and valuable artistic estate, was deprived of much of its religious items and tools, which either disappeared or were integrated in other temples on the island. In 1834, the church was acquired from the State, by Nicolau Maria Raposo de Amaral, owner of the Jesuit’s College, by paternal inheritance. After 139 years, his descendants and heirs donated the Church, to the City Council of Ponta Delgada, which decided to give the space to the Regional Government of the Azores, in 1977, for the Sacred Art Center of the Carlos Machado Museum, approved in 2004. It is the largest carved alter piece in Portugal, unfinished and one notes that like other similar churches in the city we visited, it would have likely been finished with gold paint.Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 1

    Convento de Nossa Senhora da Esperança

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Convent of Our Lady of Hope (outside decorated with anchors) was built in the 16th century, and underwent many changes in the succeeding four hundred years, including the addition of the quadrangular tower with different levels of windows.

    Inside are the azulejo tile panel scenes dated at various times in the 1600s and the gilded woodwork that covers the baroque-style main altar inside. Christ’s image is encompassed by a grand collection of jewels, which have been accumulating since the 18th century. The repertoire includes a crown of thorns encrusted with ruby and diamond, sheaf of corn, cane, and a scepter. Intricate silver lamps hang from the ceiling.

    The altarpiece of the main altar Our Lady of Hope with a child in the lap, from where the church gets its name.

    With this last church, we decided we'd had enough looking around for the day. Our lunch at Lan's (very good pizza €21) had held us well. We returned to Casa de Graca for a rest and for dinner headed to Tasca (highly recommended, too busy when we got there) but sat down at a nice spot nearby called O Churrasco (€32) featuring grilling over hardwood (Nancy really enjoyed her "fork-beard" fish served with potatoes, vegetables and rice). Then home, Penguins entry, hot shower (have to wait a long time for things to warm up in an 18th century building!) and to bed as we had booked a tour bright and early for Day 2.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 2

    Santa Barbara

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Manuel from Pure Azores tours picked us up at 0900 hrs and we returned at 1700 hrs after a great day despite less than ideal weather. We did not encounter much rain, however wind, mist, fog and dense cloud which persisted at all higher elevation scenic look out points. We had been somewhat prepared for the possibility having watched windblown people on YouTube and looking at the weather forecast a couple days out. Despite this, the guide and company and lower elevation itinerary made us feel the tour $ spent (about 200 CDN including lunch) was worth it. We were joined by Deb from Austin TX, Ann from Buffalo, HY and John and Suzanna from Massachusetts. First place we stopped at was this surfing centre.Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 2

    Ponta do Cintrao

    April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    This was on the North Coast directly opposite Ponta Delgada where we are staying, which is the largest city in the Azores, has the international airport and has 50% of the islands' 240,000 "persons" population Manuel told us. This point has a small building from where you can watch whales. Whaling was done by individual harpoon as late as 1984 and lit homes before kerosene and fed many farm animals. Previously the occupations were primarily fishing and farming. Tourism is on the climb up and to some degree is outstripping the resources on the island. Garbage is shipped off and Manuel says June/July/August are to be avoided as there are not enough restaurants etc. AirBnB's are taking accommodation off the local market and the government has now put a stop to any further expansion.Read more

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