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Paris, Basque Country & CaminoParis, Basque Country & Camino
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A sister-in-law trip: 2025! Read more
  • Nancy and Doug Trips

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    Statue of Running of the Bulls near our hotel.
    Tapas Bar GauchoBacalau con gambaCider with octopus and mashed potatoes with truffle plus roasted mushroom with garlic and olive oilLobby of our hotelOur hotelCaption: come back to the Old Kingdom.

    Arrival Pamplona

    Jun 1–3 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We descended through mountains of mixed forest and fir trees and gradually came into what appears to be a flatter dryer area and into Pamplona. Our guide told us this is a prosperous and modern city that is a leader in the manufacture of green energy equipment such as windmills and solar panels. Home of the patron Saint Fermin and the annual running of the Bulls when the city’s population expands to 1.5 million. We quickly settled into our modern hotel in the city centre and had a couple of hours rest before meeting up at 7 pm for orientation to the city. The tour would pay for one drink and pintxos and then we were on our own.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino

    Pamplona

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    El Camino de Los peregrines. Pilgrims continue to enter through the old city walls at Portal de Francis, and Calle del Carmen leads to the towers of the cathedral. One of the first regions to convert to Christianity in Spain in the 4th century AD. The scarves worn during Running of the Bulls are white, signifying holy and red, the blood of Saint Fermin one of the first baptized who was decapitated by the Romans. In 711 AD, Muslims crossed over from Morocco at the Rock of G. It was not until they crossed the Pyrenees that they were defeated by Charlemagne. He married a Muslim woman to bring peace to the area. The major Christian pilgrimages are to Jerusalem, the Vatican, and Camino de Santiago where the relics of St James are. The latter was the most important pilgrimage as it could be accessed by much of the Christian world. In 1492, Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon, the Renaissance power couple, drove the Muslims from the Granada region. After Queen Isabella’s death, Ferdinand marries the Queen of Navarre as she instructed to bring peace to the area. From 1512 to 1800 Navarre separates from Spain. c was Protestant but was baptized as Roman Catholic and marries to become King Henri 4th of France. Juana “the crazy” becomes Queen of Spain in the 1400s and marries the Hapsburg’s Phillip the 3 rd from the Netherlands. They were the most powerful family in the world. By 1700, there are no more heirs due to inbreeding. The Bourbons then take over.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    The Holy Mary Alter
    The cold detached MaryA warm Mary that the Matriarchal Basque Christian could feel close to evolved in Art.Note thetwobitches at the base of her feet indicating the descent between ?Castilleand Aragon1Between 1390-1800 both royals and commoners were buried in the churchPre gothic capitalsIt is said to be the best preserved cloister in EuropeThe Ennunciation of the death of Mary.We are now the illiterate ones who don't know how to read the sculptures of the past...2000 year old Basue foundation near Roman villa in the Interpretive area.Romanesque bishop chapel: Muslim busy Christian introspection 1200s.Simple, non distracting...Where we r now...?a Barbie world...where are we really?In the middle between the past and future says this bishopOur guide: All you need to say is "I love you" perhaps the Beatles had it summed up...

    Pamploma santa Maria de Real Cathedral

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    This a unique cathedral. There is a small fee to enter and the Bishop here has attached an interpretive centre unique in that there is a representation on where we are in in history as to the development of spiritual belief. The Holy Mary alter is 1000 years old. Mary was initially depicted as a detached God like unrelateable figure. The mattiarch 20 years later is depicted as touching Jesus and thus becomes more warm, human and relatable.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    Our host telling us how the collection was built.
    Model of a bullring.Tapas and chocolate, the young white wineOld photo of Running of the BullsAddress of the private Basque men's clubMeal set upA paella with pasta called:Pork cheeks with mashed potatoesPutting the men to work doing the servingPart of the gardens in Pamplona

    Bullfighting and a Special Lunch

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our guide Francisco used to give a talk on the street about bullfighting; until the wife of a MD husband bullfighting enthusiast established a spot to the memorabilia. He was joined by other collectors. She never had any interest in bullfighting until meeting him but she was glad to free up the living room where he had constructed a replica of a bullring and also that she can share the passion of her late husband with others. She opens the collection solely to the public the week of San Fermin….and to the Rick Steves group. As a person who has been raised around bullfighting it has appealed to Francisco. He told us that as Christianity gained in popularity it became unacceptable to have Roman gladiators, lions and criminals tear one another apart in the arena and bullfighting replaced this culture. The bull is poked by two stabs from the piccolo. The bullfighter attracts the bull through the motion of the cape and his objective is to save the bull. The performance is judged and if the result is negative, the bullfighter must kill the bull by one accurate stab through the spinal cord. It is a dangerous occupation that pays about €60,000 per fight. She served us tapas and drinks as well. Then we were treated to lunch at one of the private Basque Men’s Clubs where the men in the group
    serve the ladies! You gotta love this matriarchal society!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    67% of Pamploma s energy is from renewable sources
    Memorial2A pilgrim on his wayWe shared the poles Nancy bought the night before1ObanosBeth along the CaminoOur destination112th century Romanesque BridgeGetting wine out of the barrel at the restaurantThe full Route...we walked 1/4.Winery

    Camino walk

    June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We left Pamplona got our day on part of the Camino. First stop: El Alto del Perdon or Point of Forgiveness. This is a well photographed pilgrim viewpoint and the site of a Memorial to 92 Franco opposers who were killed. It is 770 meter above sea level. Pointe de Reina is 10 km away along the path of the wind and way of the stars. We were dropped off along the Way and walked through the village of OBano to our destination on the other side of the 12th century bridge in Pointe de la Reina. We were very fortunate that the rain held off until we were in the bus to a winery lunch in the country side. After we were done and had just closed the doors to the bus it poured all the way to our next stop! You could not have timed things better!Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    Back into the mountains: the Sierra Alto
    First glimpse of San SebastiánThe main beachFair at the viewpointA rainy orientation to the cityPintxo BarThe next day the weather cleared, view towards where we were yesterday

    Arrival San Sebastian/Donastia

    June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Helen explained we are going through the Sierra Alto mountains where we saw again more Etxcha, traditional Basque home design. Traditionally, the 4th Basque son would be sent to America often to settle near Salt Lake City and work as shepherds. In Boise, Idaho, there is an annual Basque festival. San Sebastian is a foodie destination and home to the Basque cheese cake. We entered the next province listening to the history of the transition of power between Franco and Juan Carlos, who declared a democratic republic.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    Walkway along the River across from our Hotel Parma
    The heart of the City: O Kendall Square?A French soldier turned gardener designed all the gardens in the City1Tamarisk Trees with their pink frond like blossomsLa Concha BeachThe Sacre Coeur a top the castle in Mount UrguelMaria Christina's summer palace designed by a British architectThe Geand Casino one of 7 that existed during the Belle Epoch years.3 rd church on site first built in the 12th century when city foundedConstitution Square originally included a bull ringFire in 1830s devastated the city paving the way for the Queen's plan.Sacre Coeur1Enjoying a seaview lunch1View from our plates.Tourist boats going in and out of the harbour.As well as kayakersAbout the areaIn the Aquarium. Beth's feet are getting tired!

    Day in San Sebastian

    Jun 4–6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Modeled after Biarritz during the Belle Epoch era, the lamp posts are 1920s Art Deco. Queen Maria Christina took waters here for her skin and then helped develop it into a tourist, trade, and industrial centre, and it now has a population of 185,000. A modernistic convention centre now hosts the annual film festival that was established in 1953. The castle was built in the 11th century and atop is a statue of Jesus similar to Rio. We climbed Mount Urguel to the top. Once a fishing port, the area below is now a tourist hub where we enjoyed scallops and calamari frito overlooking the harbour. We then took in the aquarium, which was very good. The Basilica de Santa Maria was not open.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    Urretxun (Gipuzkoa) a Basque singer 1800s

    Travel to Guernica

    June 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We headed out to the fishing village of Getaria where the first person to circumnavigate the globe was born. Juan Elkano set out with Magellan in 5 ships. Magellan died and only the Victoria with 35 survivors returned. 1519-22. Also birthplace of the well known designer Christian Belen?? So who designed for royalty. He had connections to leave for
    Paris during the Franco years where he designed for all the big names: Grace Kelly, Jackie O etc. Then a stop and lunch in Guernica. Finally, we stopped at a sheep farm to make yogurt (quark) before heading for our stay in Bilbao. The Spanish Civil War 1936 -1939 started with Franco invading from the South of Spain via Morocco. He won because of support from the other two fascist leaders Hitler and Mussolini. A carpet bombing in the heart of the Basque country assembly house took place on Market Day in 1937; after this, Picasso painted perhaps the most symbolic anti-war painting ever. The painting was in New York until Franco died and then moved to Spain as Picasso wished. Beautiful rugged coastal views and inland mountainous areas with villages nestled between valleys were our views today.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino

    Sheep farm

    Jun 5–7 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Our guide reminded us that Spain’s the 3rd most mountainous country after Switzerland and . We passed classic Etxhas. The laxta (latcha) sheep make a special strong cheese only made in the Basque Country. The raw milk is brought just under the boiling point. Rennet is added to coagulate it, this is traditionally made from the stomach of
    Lamb but now is produced under lab conditions.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsTravelerParis, Basque Country & Camino
    Having coffee in old town Bilbao waiting for our laundry cycle
    Beth heading back with clean clothesTitanium used for lightness durability modality and reflective properties limestone floors roundedAlot of glass light and drama accented with interior white plaster wallsSnake Richard SerraThe Great TreeThe Mama (Spider)Hmmm...I wonder what Beth is thinking....1Pop Art Gallery: TulipThe Washing MachineAbstract Expressionism following WW I Title: Billa BourgheseMan from Naples 1982El Anatsui: made of stapled bottle caps and labels in chicken wire:Rising Sea, Nsukka NigeriaPuppy

    Bilbao

    June 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The Guggenheim Museum of modern Art was built 1993-97 on site of an inactive factory in a ex prosperous city with 30% unemployment whose leaders envisioned a transformation. The Guggenheim administration in NYC were out of space so consideration was given first to a European location. Salzburg and Venice were in the running and but Bilbao was chosen as the best fit. It was financed by the local interests and paid for itself in 3 years 1.3 million visitors per year. Beth and I agreed that the architecture and setting were outstanding.Read more

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