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Camino 2024

april - mai 2024
  • Boris Sønderskov
My Camino blog - Camino Frances April - May 2024 Les mer
  • Boris Sønderskov

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 17 Villar de Mazarife - Astorga

    13.–14. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    31.4 km (513.6 from start). 39.000 steps. 2025 calories. 5.9 km/h

    Great stay at Villar de Mazarife. Pilgrim dinner was together with gentleman from USA 🇺🇸 (IT developer), Ireland 🇮🇪 (Psychiatrist) and Belgium 🇧🇪 (just retired CEO for big Belgium bank).
    We had such a great evening and talked about so many exiting tings. Evening like this makes Camino such a great experience.

    Walked after breakfast, 07.25. Had a few calls with friends and family before I cached up with psychiatrist from last night. Next 10-15 km we tried to fix war in Ukraine, crisis in Gaza and refugee madness in Ireland. Unfortunately I missed my breaks, second breakfast because our talk was so exciting 😂

    Sad goodbye to my fellow pilgrim from Ireland and had so needed break after 21 km.

    Now in Astorga, quite a big city. Will try to find a decent restaurant and get some proper meal - not just usual pilgrim menu.

    Tomorrow is end of Meseta and 7-8 days with flat roads. Target for tomorrow is Foncebadon in almost 1500m above see levels. They are expecting colder weather and temperatures near 0° - are we going to see snow one more time on Camino? Bring it on - I am invincible right now 😂😂    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 18 Astorga - Foncebadon

    14.–15. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    24.6 km (538.2 km from start). 1734 calories. 31.000 steps. 5.6 km/h (according to Apple - around 730.000 steps since day 1)

    Astorga hostel was one I wanted to try. Old, with special atmosphere. Wooden floors and walls - you could hear everything - and everyone in that place. No dinner or breakfast - just old fashioned pilgrim hostel.

    Monday in Astorga was like Sunday anywhere else in Spain - everything was closed. Looked for pizzeria - wanted some junk food. Ended with durum with chicken 😡 - couldn’t find decent restaurant open. Astorga - I don’t need to come back.

    Started day in 870m above sea levels - ended in 1420m. All that in 24 km. Easy day on Camino today. Tomorrow I am getting to Camino’s highest point - 1500m above sea levels - then it will be down the hill. My knees are already complaining 😂

    Staying at another old fashioned pilgrim hostel in Foncebadon - so high in the mountains there is 5G connection, there is both dinner and breakfast, all my clothes is being washed and dried. There is absolutely nothing to complain about 😇

    PS. First picture is me at day 1 on Camino - and day 17. Never had a beard in my life - keeping it or not?    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 19 Foncebadon - Ponferrada

    15.–16. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    26.4 km (564.6 km from the start). 1655 calories. 34.000 steps. 5.8 km/h

    Great hostel last night - because of food. I could combine usual pilgrim menu with a la carte menu - ended with white beans soup with mushrooms, steak & French fries and cheesecake for dessert. Got also glass of red wine - all of that for 19€

    Day started at 07am at 1°C - and snow ❄️. Luckily I had both gloves and wool hat from home - was most exited by experiencing snow, in Spain, in May 😂

    If previous days were boring and technically easy - today was a day I needed all my senses. It was wet, slippery, flooded and sometimes dangerous. My knees survived but probably because I took a longer trip and followed the road. I started in 1523 meters above sea levels and in Ponferrada I am at 530m.

    Plenty of time to recover and prepare for tomorrow - stage is to Trabadelo 34.1 km    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 20 Ponferrada - Trabadelo

    16.–17. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    32.9 km (597.5 km from the start). 2146 calories.
    41.600 steps. 5.8 km/t

    Hostel in Ponferrada last night was brand new - air condition was not working properly and temperature in our 7 man room was at one point 25.5°. Had to open window in order to survive.

    Was it open window or high temperature - but I had one of the best sleep on Camino. Was awaken only 11 times (according to my Garmin) - but never longer than 1-2 minutes. When I was up this morning at 6:45 - all 6 other pilgrims were gone - and I registered nothing 😂

    Great day on the road. 33km and pretty tired at the end but nature was beautiful. Mountains, hills, clear water in rivers. Woods and wine marks everywhere. Loved the experience today.

    Staying at Spanish version of Fawlty Towers - crazy atmosphere, busy and confusing, 3-4 dogs barking and jumping at guests, German lady in total panic over dogs. In middle of everything - there is me, eating leftovers of my lunch, enjoying my beer and already loving this place 😂    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 21 Trabadelo - Fonfria

    17.–18. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    30.1 km (627.6 km from the start). 2320 Calories. 39000 steps. 6t 10min on the road. 5.7 km/h

    Great hostel last night. Family owned (with 3 kids and 3 dogs). Total chaos but extremely friendly. Super clean rooms and fantastic home made dinner.

    Unfortunately - 9 other pilgrims came from Austria, Germany and Holland - and they all spoke German. No pilgrim solidarity - I thanked our hosts for nice dinner and my fellow pilgrims for nice company - some irony was used 😂

    Today stage was BRUTAL. Third highest mountain on Camino was on the menu - and what a challenge it was. 1329m going up and 622m going down. The ascent was extremely demanding and sometimes even dangerous.

    Anyway - I walked 5.7 km/h - my body is well oiled machine and I am taking last 5 days without any issues. Still an amazing experience    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 22 Fonfria - Sarria

    18.–19. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    26.7 km (654.3 km from the start). 32.000 steps. 1620 calories. 6 km/h

    Huge hostel last night - my room had 50 beds - and room next door had 30 beds. Finally Danish pilgrims in there but not someone I wanted to talk to. Couple where wife was bitching over everything, 3 younger guys talking about amount of beer they had during Camino and older chap who absolutely wanted to educate people around how important it was to be fit as him. God dammit, he was doing pushups in the middle of hostel 😂😂

    Rainy day today, from start to finish. Doesn’t bother me at all - as long my gear is working. And it is working - I made to Sarria dry - and sweaty 😅

    If stage yesterday was going up - today stage was going down. 1428m going down and 591m going up. If this was beginning of Camino - my knees would be destroyed. Now - nothing special - I am in pretty good shape and I could keep doing this for a long time.

    Sarria is a place where Spanish people start their Camino - quite curious about amount of people on the path - we’ll see tomorrow    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 23 Sarria - Gonzar

    19.–20. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    29.2 km (683.5 km from the start) 1957 calories. 37.000 steps. 5.7 km/h

    Sarria is a town where Spanish pilgrims start on Camino. Suddenly more people on the path but many tings are different.

    Last night hostel was nice. No dinner, no breakfast but staying in the middle of the larger city - I was up to the pizza (again). And one more time I can conclude - I am not going to have that bloody pizza on Camino. All 3 pizzerias I tried were closed - and not opening later that evening. Huge disappointment.

    Ended up buying tapas for a lot of money in local supermarket (whole 10€ 😀) - and used leftovers for breakfast. Nice - but still no pizza for this pilgrim.

    From Sarria path is suddenly in much better shape. People have nice outfits, some even smell of perfume 😂. No big backpacks - Spanish pilgrim have enter the scene 😂

    Walked first 20 km sharing path with hundreds of people but after 20km everyone was suddenly gone. Well - those pilgrims are taking only 20 km/day, transporting their backpacks with taxi service and sleeping in luxury hotels.

    Another rainy day in Galicia. Couple days ago it was snowing 🌨️, yesterday temperature was 3° and this morning 7°. No global warming (yet) in this part of the world 🌎    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 24 Gonzar - Melide

    20.–21. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    31.5 km (715 km from the start). 5h 56min on the Road. 39.000 steps. 2095 calories. 5.9 km/h

    Last night hostel was great. Didn’t expect that as village is 39 inhabitants big 😂 Great room, huge pilgrim menu and best of everything - breakfast with eggs and bacon. Waited until 07:30am to get that breakfast and it was absolutely worth it.

    Long stage today - considering I have been walking for 24 days now. 618m ascent and 707 descent - quite challenging when I am walking so much.

    So many people on the trail - no backpacks, no dirty clothes. Spain has entered the Camino and this, what they are doing, is no challenge at all. It is walk in the park but if this is going to grant them shortcut to heaven 😂😂 - fine with me.

    Staying in Melide - big city considering where I have been staying until now. Is it pizza day today? I am not talking about microwave heated supermarket pizza - I want a real deal 😂

    Only 55 km to go - and only 2 days left. I am ready to get back to civilization - first acclimatizing in Porto - then returning to “civilian” life in Copenhagen 🥰    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 25 Melide - Salceda

    21.–22. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    25.2 km (740.2 km from the start). 31.000 steps. 5h 5min on the road. 1658 calories. 5.7 km/h

    Melide provided what I have been craving for in 20 days - deep pan pepperoni pizza 😂 It was greasy, fat and disgusting - and I loved it 😇

    So many people on the Camino. Very few with big backpacks, mostly with small bags and no equipment. It was raining again today and many Spanish pilgrims were wet and their pretty new sneakers were suddenly dirty and wet 😂 Welcome to Camino without global warming

    Unfortunately - sad news on Camino. Missing pilgrim from France, age 45, has been found dead on descent from Pyrenees. Experience hiker was missing since Sunday but found this morning. Just a reminder that Camino is not a joke and, especially in Pyrenees it can be a very challenging task.

    Staying at Salceda - small 27 km from my finish line. While I am enjoying my well deserved beer - some Spanish pilgrims decided to have a party. It is going to be a fun afternoon - after they remember that they still are missing some 11 km before their stop for today 😂😂    Les mer

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  • Boris SønderskovReisendeCamino 2024

    Day 26 Salceda - Santiago

    22.–23. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    27.1 km (667.3 km from the start). 34.000 steps. 1708 calories. 5h 10min on the road. 6.2 km/h

    Last night hostel was the most expensive on my Camino trip - and what a shithole 😂 Old, very thin walls, you could hear kitchen, air conditioning, bathrooms in other rooms - and people talking 😱 Food was delicious and that was important.

    So many pilgrims on the road. I walked very fast today - wanted to make it done. I am so ready to get back to civilization. I loved Caminos first 22 days - and I didn’t like last 4 days.

    Spanish pilgrims are not taking this task so seriously. They are slow, usually taking all the space and not considering other people are walking there too. Every non-Spanish pilgrim I talked to was more than irritated by our Spanish co-pilgrims.

    Arrived at Santiago just around noon. While everyone rushed to noon mass - I looked after Camino pilgrim office. Waiting time was 35 seconds 😂 - and expected waiting time later today will be 5-6 hours.

    Got my Compostela - a proof I have walked from Saint Jean Pied de Port - 779 km. My Garmin calculated little bit less - but those are small details.

    I am tired, satisfied and little proud. Walking Camino in 26 days was ambitious but I did it.

    Tomorrow is off day and bus trip to Porto. That will be my final note in my blog - and my retrospective to my Camino experience.    Les mer

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