• Boris Sønderskov
Apr – May 2024

Camino 2024

My Camino blog - Camino Frances April - May 2024 Read more
  • Trip start
    April 26, 2024

    How it started

    February 13, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    I have been asked so many times - why Camino? Why walking 800km, away from family and friends.
    There is no complicated answer - just me setting another goal and trying to just do it. For you who knows me well - this is not first time I am doing something like this. First was half marathon, then Vätternrundan, then Mammutmarchen, now Camino. I just like the challenge - and I like walking. Just imagine - first time in 27 years - I do something for my self. No wife, no children, no colleagues, no employees. No commitment - just Boris. And 25 days challenging my self. 800km in 25 days. Looking so much forward to it.
    For those who wants to see the route - this is my plan: https://shorturl.at/kpABV
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  • T-7 Days

    April 19, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Only 7 days left. I was ready couple weeks ago - now I can only wait - and follow the weather rapports. Is it going to rain? Sunshine? Cold? Warm?

    According to www.caminoweather.com and their historical data - the lowest temperature on Camino, last 15 years, was -8°C, - the highest +36°C (27th April to 23rd May). Highest point on Camino is around 1500m above see level - everything but snow would be OK :)

    Another big question - what kind of shoes do I take? My favorite Adidas Terrex light shoes or Gore-Tex? Light shoes get dry quite quickly - but provide no protection from rain - Gore-tex are keeping water out - but also keeping sweat inside the shoes. I will probably take my Gore-tex shoes on - and change socks every 10-15 km on hot days.
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  • T-3 days

    April 23, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Backpack (Osprey Stratos 36) is packed - 8kg without water and food. Recommendation is 10% of body weight - well, it is almost spot on.

    Little bit about my preparations:

    Training: Almost 3 years of walking and last 10 months actively training for Camino. I am in good shape and 30km/day as average on Camino should not be the problem. Maybe I will become wiser when I get to first bigger hill/mountain

    Hostels: I will be sleeping Camino style - in hostels with bunk beds. The biggest one has 180 beds - smallest one I have booked is with 4 beds. I have booked all 25 nights from home - not the true Camino style, but considering I will be walking 30 km/day and I don´t want to risk getting to preferred hostel where all beds are occupied. Not a funny scenario after walking for 8 hours.

    Food on Camino: Simple breakfast is included in hostels. Lunch ans snacks will be taken along the road - in small villages and towns. I basically don't care if it is restaurant food or supermarket sandwich - as long I get my calories - I am happy.

    Camino passport - my personal documentation I am taking the Way of St. James. Camino passport gives you access to cheap hostels, camino meals (3 course dinner for 10 euro) and the way to document you are taking Way of St. James is collecting stamps at hostels, restaurants, churches. Even bars and private room landlords have their own stamps. I will be collecting all the stamps I can get - and if Camino passport is full of stamps - you just buy a new one. Great souvenir.
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  • Day 0 Copenhagen - SaintJeanPiedDePort

    Apr 26–27, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    04:15 I was awake - short trip to airport and I was on my way. 5 hours stay at London Stansted and then to Biarritz, France. Plane was delayed for 1h 20min and on top of that, we were not allowed to get off the plane because of lightning in local area. Taxi to Bayonne station and catch my train 2 min before departure. Too much stress for Day 0 😂
    Staying at Gite Beilari, dinner will be served in 15 minutes. Looking so much forward to start my journey 💪
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  • Day 1 SJPDP - Roncesvalles

    Apr 27–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Camino Day 1 - 24.2km, 2300 calories, 6h 30min on the road, including breaks. Average speed 4.7 km

    I had that stupid, satisfying smile on my face the whole morning. Loved the atmosphere at the place I stayed last night but I just wanted to start walking.

    The stage was extremely demanding. First 8 km are some of the most difficult on whole Camino. At least weather was nice and sun was shining. Everything changed in next 5-10 min. Temperature dropped to 5-6°, it was raining like hell and wind was blowing some 65-70 km/hour.

    I had company of Will and Eva, young people from London and Ireland. At least we shared that experience together. No goretex in the world would keep me dry and warm those 18 km to Roncesvalles.

    Roncesvalles is a “jungle” - 240 beds - Camino absolutely largest refuge. I have prepaid sleepover, dinner and breakfast, tomorrow is an another short day (25 km).
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  • Day 2 Roncesvalles - Urdaniz

    Apr 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    25.5 km i dag. 5.1 km/h average speed.

    Nice good sleep at Roncesvalles. Night “concert” of snoring, farts and sleep talking started at 10pm - I slept through everything.

    Breakfast at 7 and on the road at 7.30. Shared almost the whole stage with Mark from Santa Fe, Nex Mexico. At 11:30 we cached up on Will and Eva whom I met yesterday and shared that terrible experience crossing The Pyrenees.

    The whole different experience today. Sun and nice weather, great walking conditions. My body feels great and I look forward to challenging day tomorrow - 34 km to Uterga.
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  • Day 3 Urdaniz - Uterga

    Apr 29–30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    34.2 km, 6h 50min on the road, incl, breaks. 5.7 km/h average speed. 2400 calories and 44.000 steps.

    Great stay at Urdaniz, great host, facilities and food. Woke up with sore knee, one I had surgery on 2 years ago. Some 5 km later and with 2 painkillers in the system - pain was gone and I truly enjoyed another day at Camino.

    Walked alone for good 15 km before catching up on Eva and Will. 3rd day we are sharing the road. Unfortunately they stopped at Pamplona and I continued my journey with Lara from Milano. Lara is working in social community project where they are running kitchen, restaurant and study help for young people. Restaurant is non-profit and all earning are invested in young people in need. At the end of the journey I called her Sct. Lara -something she definitely would not accept 😂

    Still haven’t used my earphones on this trip. Enjoying sound, nature, smells and positive energy of other pilgrims.

    Still not homesick but Anne is always there, in my mind. I am so privileged sharing my life with that amazing woman ❤️

    Ps. First picture is a bed of a lovely American lady who managed to bring 21 kg in her backpack. We had a party following her struggle to clean up the mess 😂
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  • Day 4 Uterga - Estella

    Apr 30–May 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    29.3km 7t on Camino. 4.9 km/h average speed. 45k steps. 1950 calories

    Dinner, at Casa Baztan in Uterga, last night, at 6pm was something I never will forget. They mixed everything they could and we ate everything on our plates. Never got that combination before - and I love it.

    Snoring symphony last night, Found my earplugs at 1am and slept like a baby rest of the night.

    Early breakfast, at 6am and on the road 6.30am. Slow tempo on today stage - thanks Judita Lithuania. My knees and my muscles thanks you - I would have probably walked like a speedy Gonzales and just damaged my body 😂

    My knees are hurting. No swelling - I keep on walking. Taking painkillers only during the stage - in the afternoon I just have a muscle pain.

    Agora hostel in Estella seems great but no dinner. I get to choose - pizza or plato peregrino - we’ll see tomorrow what I got.
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  • Day 5 Estella - Sansol

    May 1–2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    28.4 km (141.6 from start). 6h 10min. 2000 Calories. 34000 steps.

    Latte start in Estella. Good breakfast and start at 7.30am. Rain half of the stage but pretty chill out there (7°C). Still prefer this weather instead of sun and 20+°

    Pain in my knees is bad - especially in the start. If there are downhills, like today, then it is not funny. Will start tomorrow stage with pain killers as first 10km of that stage is called “knee wreckers”.

    Walked alone first 18km - and passed by famous place - wine on tap. Free to pilgrims. It was 8am so I just took the picture and walked through.

    Cached up with Judita at 18km mark - we were heading to same hostel and once again, she was walking slowly - just what my knees needed.

    Fortunately not so many hills in last 15km so I am filling pretty good.

    It is 3pm, I am writing this blog and have whole 4 hours before the dinner. Luxury if you ask me. My clothes is washed, I had nice warm shower - just need some snacks and a cold cola.
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  • Day 6 Sansol - Navarrete

    May 2–3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    34.5km (176.1 km from start). 40.000 steps. 6h 45min with breaks. 2420 calories

    Long day today. After great breakfast (ham, cheese, eggs and juice) started day with painkillers. First 10 kilometers are known as “knee wreckers” and my would definitely preferred another route. I was in so much pain. Starting to realize what is it I am really doing. Getting to Santiago in 26 days is VERY optimistic.

    Said goodbye to Judita from Lithuania. We shared the road in almost 2 days - she was a great company. We said goodbye in Logrono where she went on hunt for blisters treatment and I looked for pharmacy and some additional painkillers for my knees.

    Walked last 12 km very fast - just wanted to get to hostel and rest my old body 😂
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  • Day 7 Navarrete/Santo Domingo de Calzad

    May 3–4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    36.5km (212.6 from start). 46.000 steps. 7h 15min on the road, including breaks. 2400 calories and 5.8 km/h average speed.

    Hostel in Navarrete is not getting any stars from me. No dinner, no breakfast. Old hostel and small rooms. When 12 people share so little space, it is challenging.

    Anyway, my Garmin gave me 93% on sleep quality 😂 Slept from 21:38 to 06:15 - my earplugs are very effective.

    Camino’s longest stage today. 36.5km after 34km yesterday and I am actually feeling ok. Even had energy to wash my clothes and take a walk to nearest supermarket.

    Day today was in solitude. Alone and first time with earphones. Good old 80’s and endless fields of wine yards. We are in Rioja and it is beautiful. I enjoyed so much today’s stage.

    Private room in Room Concept Hostels. Will take luxury breakfast at 7:30 and will not start walking before 8am - only 23km tomorrow.
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  • Day 8 Santa Domingo - Belorado

    May 4–5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    22.3km (234.9 from start). 4h 17min Including breaks. 1461 calories. 29.000 steps. 5.6 km/t

    What a luxury. Only 22.3 km - and little more than 4 hours on the road. It is 1pm when I write this lines and I have already taken a shower and fixed my smelly clothes. Have almost 6 hours to recover before dinner at 7.30pm.

    Short day and another day with headphones and good old 80’s music. Enjoying those days without company - Camino is also being alone and with my own minds.

    Staying in Quattro Cantones hostel - famous for their communal dinner (pilgrim menu). Looking forward to that.

    Tomorrow is awaiting another long stage - 36 km to Cardenula Riopico. Huge number of small villages on the road - 8 of them. Plenty of possibilities for nice breaks, fresh fruits and drinks.
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  • Day 9 Belorado - Cardenuela Piopico

    May 5–6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    35.8 km (270.7 km from start). 43.000 steps. 7 hours on the road. 2377 calories. 5.8 km/h

    Great evening in Belorado. Best dinner until now: red beans soup (in Serbia - Pasulj), chicken from grill and chocolate mousse desert. Energy boost I really needed.

    Early start, at 6.45am Perfect weather, not to cold, not to warm. Rain during the day but my gear is performing perfectly. Long part throughout woods, something I haven’t try that much.

    No pain today, just a little bit at the end of the walk. I am enjoying my self and looking forward for another day, new places and more kilometers to complete.

    Again walking alone. I need this, I enjoy solitude. Talked to my daughter today, talking to my wife every day. Not missing my day to day life - but I do miss my family ❤️

    Staying at Santa Fe hostel. Private room with private bathroom. Luxury I haven’t tried before. It is ok but I definitely do not mind bunk beds and Camino spirit in hostels.
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  • Day 10 Cardenuela Riopico - Tardajos

    May 6–7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    24.2km (294.9 km from start). 29.000 steps. 1512 calories. 4h 40min on the road. 5.9 km/h average speed.

    Last night at hostel was quite. Lady at the bar/restaurant/hostel had pretty busy evening - she reminded me of Marge Simpson sister 😂 She was all smiles this morning when I thanked for her effort.

    Pilgrim passport is getting more and more stamps. Pilgrim pass gives access to pilgrim hostels and restaurants for pilgrim menus. Food is usually good and portions huge. We need that energy.

    Walked only 24.2 km today. 14 of those were industrial area and suburbs of Burgos - then the town itself. Just a short stop for coffee and cake and I was out of city.

    Met first Danish pilgrim today, Pernille from Gentofte. We shared the road for 3-4 km before she headed off and I stopped for the day at Tardajos. So nice with Danish language and easy going Dane.

    Hostel in Tardajos is already a disappointment. Had only 2 min warm water in shower, hospitalero (person who runes the hostel) was everything else then welcoming and warm. He spoke only Spanish and was clearly irritated that I was even there. Let’s hope diner will be nice with other fellow pilgrims.
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  • Day 11 Tardajos - Castrojeriz

    May 7–8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    29.7 km (324.6km from start). 5h 25min walking incl. only 25 min breaks. 1900 calories. 6 km/h

    Finally a perfect day on the road. Beautiful weather, endless fields of Meseta, no pain in my knees or muscles. Huge amount of energy - I had a fun today.

    Last night hostel was a nice place - but some people can make it difficult. Had an elderly gentleman in our 8 mans room who wanted door to hallway open but window closed. We would have died in there if there was not for a tough Spanish lady who opened the window during the night. Elderly gentleman was bitching whole morning that we made him sick and destroyed his Camino 😂

    Walking Camino is very simple - I used my phone to find a way only in big city’s. There are yellow arrows everywhere - no chance to miss the Camino.

    Staying in quite nice hostel in Castrojeriz - they have breakfast with bacon and eggs. I can feel tomorrow will be another fabulous day on Camino 😇
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  • Day 12 Castrojeriz - Poblacion de Campos

    May 8–9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    28.5 km (353.1 km from start). 6h 10min on the road, including 2 “huge” breaks. 1864 calories, 5.7 km/h

    Another great day. No pain, just a pure enjoyment. This is Camino I have dreamed about 😇

    Great hostel last night. No bunk beds, just single beds and 6 people in pretty big room. Luxury. Nice dinner and nice talk with people from USA, Japan, Norway and France.

    During the day cached up on nice old lady from France, she was a hurricane on the road. Pure energy bomb considering she was in late 60’s 😀 Had a nice chat and company for almost 10 km.

    Staying at hotel (not hostel). Private room with 2 beds and private bathroom. Feels like cheating 😀 - no bunk beds, no snoring, no busy Koreans 5am 🤣

    Tomorrow awaits famous stage - 17km without villages, city’s, trees, shade or water - just 17 km of Meseta. It will be fun - especially as forecast says Camino warmest day this year (26°)
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  • Day 13 Poblacion-Calzadilla de la Cueza

    May 9–10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    31.9km (385 km from start). 2015 calories. 38.000 steps. 6h 10min on the road. 5.9 km/h

    Half way through Camino. 13/26 days covered.

    Nice hotel last night. Private room and private bathroom but I missed Camino spirit, people around me and that special feeling in the morning, just before people hit the road.

    Got huge breakfast, lady at hotel was worried about me walking 32km in that heat (19°) 😂
    She delivered food enough for 3 people 😂

    Today stage was special - and famous/feared among pilgrims. There is a part with 17km without city’s/villages, shade or place to do breaks. I shared this part with young Korean woman and those 3 hours went quickly.

    We had a stop just in between, after 8.5 km. There was a food truck there - and you never know if he will be there - or somewhere else on Camino. I got fresh orange juice, sandwich, banana, mars bar and cold beer. I loved that break.

    Staying in little hostel with only 9 beds - just 3 beds in my room. Hoping for some nice company and cozy pilgrim dinner.
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  • Day 14 Calzadilla-Bercianos Real Camino

    May 10–11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    32km (417 km from start). 2021 calories. 39.000 steps. 6h 10min on the road. 6 km/t

    Last night dinner was big disappointment. When you walk alone during the day you look forward to some Camino time with fellow pilgrims. I sat at table with 3 Italians. When they didn’t fight they talked to their families home in Italy - of course with sound on. Lame idiots 😡

    Started late today. We are on 900m above sea level and temperatures in the morning are quite low. Already at 9am temperature was above 17° and it was time to ditch the jacket and find sun cream.

    Long they on the road when sun is burning down. When I arrived to my destination temperature is 25° - nothing special if you are just chilling in the shade - but not funny when you walk 32 km.

    One more time I am happy I booked all my hostels in advance. People are using huge amounts of time and energy to make sure they have a bed day after. Maybe I have taken impulsivity from my Camino - but at least I know there is a bed with my name on it - every single day until Santiago.
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  • Day 15 Bercianos - Puente Villarente

    May 11–12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    32.4 km (449.4 from start). 2065 calories. 40.000 steps. 6 hours on the road. 5.9 km/t

    Late start this morning. Breakfast 07.15 and out on the road at 7.30am. Already there it was warm.

    Walked for 21km without break. 3.5h without stop. Didn’t even feel any discomfort or pain - Camino seems so easy early in the morning.

    Had a great lunch. Love Spanish prices. 2 huge sandwiches, cop coffee, 2 Fanta lemon (of course with sugar) 😇 - all of that for 14€

    Rest of the walk was in much easier tempo and the heat started to be an issue. I could hear the storm behind me. I can deal with rain, snow, high winds and high temperatures. What I don’t like is open road and thunderstorms.

    Made to hostel before the rain. Drinking cold beer and enjoying the garden within hostel. Tomorrow is awaiting another long stage - 33.5 km through Leon.
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  • Day 16 Villarente - Villar de Mazarife

    May 12–13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    32.8 km (482.2 km from start). 2135 calories. 42.000 steps. 6h 40min on the road. 5.8 km/h

    Great hostel in Puente Villarente. Nice dinner, new “pilgrim friends” and nice lounge area with fireplace. Enjoyed that place.

    Up 06.30am, breakfast at 7am and out on the road at 07.15am

    Another 32+ km stage - and I can feel it in my body. No pain but few blisters and general tiredness. Weather is nice, fortunately not so hot.

    There are 3 big city’s on Camino: Pamplona, Burgos and Leon. Leon was as any other big city - boring and empty (Sunday in Spain = everything is closed and no people on the streets).

    Managed to find open supermarket: new Colgate, soap, chocolate bars and peanuts mixture. Important with high energy snacks.

    Got also 200€ from 🏧 - using Apple Pay as much as possible but cash is still necessary at small villages.

    Plan for today: relax, stretch out, recharge. I am tired but still extremely happy and positive.
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  • Day 17 Villar de Mazarife - Astorga

    May 13–14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    31.4 km (513.6 from start). 39.000 steps. 2025 calories. 5.9 km/h

    Great stay at Villar de Mazarife. Pilgrim dinner was together with gentleman from USA 🇺🇸 (IT developer), Ireland 🇮🇪 (Psychiatrist) and Belgium 🇧🇪 (just retired CEO for big Belgium bank).
    We had such a great evening and talked about so many exiting tings. Evening like this makes Camino such a great experience.

    Walked after breakfast, 07.25. Had a few calls with friends and family before I cached up with psychiatrist from last night. Next 10-15 km we tried to fix war in Ukraine, crisis in Gaza and refugee madness in Ireland. Unfortunately I missed my breaks, second breakfast because our talk was so exciting 😂

    Sad goodbye to my fellow pilgrim from Ireland and had so needed break after 21 km.

    Now in Astorga, quite a big city. Will try to find a decent restaurant and get some proper meal - not just usual pilgrim menu.

    Tomorrow is end of Meseta and 7-8 days with flat roads. Target for tomorrow is Foncebadon in almost 1500m above see levels. They are expecting colder weather and temperatures near 0° - are we going to see snow one more time on Camino? Bring it on - I am invincible right now 😂😂
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  • Day 18 Astorga - Foncebadon

    May 14–15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    24.6 km (538.2 km from start). 1734 calories. 31.000 steps. 5.6 km/h (according to Apple - around 730.000 steps since day 1)

    Astorga hostel was one I wanted to try. Old, with special atmosphere. Wooden floors and walls - you could hear everything - and everyone in that place. No dinner or breakfast - just old fashioned pilgrim hostel.

    Monday in Astorga was like Sunday anywhere else in Spain - everything was closed. Looked for pizzeria - wanted some junk food. Ended with durum with chicken 😡 - couldn’t find decent restaurant open. Astorga - I don’t need to come back.

    Started day in 870m above sea levels - ended in 1420m. All that in 24 km. Easy day on Camino today. Tomorrow I am getting to Camino’s highest point - 1500m above sea levels - then it will be down the hill. My knees are already complaining 😂

    Staying at another old fashioned pilgrim hostel in Foncebadon - so high in the mountains there is 5G connection, there is both dinner and breakfast, all my clothes is being washed and dried. There is absolutely nothing to complain about 😇

    PS. First picture is me at day 1 on Camino - and day 17. Never had a beard in my life - keeping it or not?
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  • Day 19 Foncebadon - Ponferrada

    May 15–16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    26.4 km (564.6 km from the start). 1655 calories. 34.000 steps. 5.8 km/h

    Great hostel last night - because of food. I could combine usual pilgrim menu with a la carte menu - ended with white beans soup with mushrooms, steak & French fries and cheesecake for dessert. Got also glass of red wine - all of that for 19€

    Day started at 07am at 1°C - and snow ❄️. Luckily I had both gloves and wool hat from home - was most exited by experiencing snow, in Spain, in May 😂

    If previous days were boring and technically easy - today was a day I needed all my senses. It was wet, slippery, flooded and sometimes dangerous. My knees survived but probably because I took a longer trip and followed the road. I started in 1523 meters above sea levels and in Ponferrada I am at 530m.

    Plenty of time to recover and prepare for tomorrow - stage is to Trabadelo 34.1 km
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  • Day 20 Ponferrada - Trabadelo

    May 16–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    32.9 km (597.5 km from the start). 2146 calories.
    41.600 steps. 5.8 km/t

    Hostel in Ponferrada last night was brand new - air condition was not working properly and temperature in our 7 man room was at one point 25.5°. Had to open window in order to survive.

    Was it open window or high temperature - but I had one of the best sleep on Camino. Was awaken only 11 times (according to my Garmin) - but never longer than 1-2 minutes. When I was up this morning at 6:45 - all 6 other pilgrims were gone - and I registered nothing 😂

    Great day on the road. 33km and pretty tired at the end but nature was beautiful. Mountains, hills, clear water in rivers. Woods and wine marks everywhere. Loved the experience today.

    Staying at Spanish version of Fawlty Towers - crazy atmosphere, busy and confusing, 3-4 dogs barking and jumping at guests, German lady in total panic over dogs. In middle of everything - there is me, eating leftovers of my lunch, enjoying my beer and already loving this place 😂
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  • Day 21 Trabadelo - Fonfria

    May 17–18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    30.1 km (627.6 km from the start). 2320 Calories. 39000 steps. 6t 10min on the road. 5.7 km/h

    Great hostel last night. Family owned (with 3 kids and 3 dogs). Total chaos but extremely friendly. Super clean rooms and fantastic home made dinner.

    Unfortunately - 9 other pilgrims came from Austria, Germany and Holland - and they all spoke German. No pilgrim solidarity - I thanked our hosts for nice dinner and my fellow pilgrims for nice company - some irony was used 😂

    Today stage was BRUTAL. Third highest mountain on Camino was on the menu - and what a challenge it was. 1329m going up and 622m going down. The ascent was extremely demanding and sometimes even dangerous.

    Anyway - I walked 5.7 km/h - my body is well oiled machine and I am taking last 5 days without any issues. Still an amazing experience
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