Camino 2017

September - October 2017
A 36-day adventure by Camino 2017 Read more
  • 26footprints
  • 2countries
  • 36days
  • 68photos
  • 0videos
  • 3.5kmiles
  • 3.2kmiles
  • Day 10

    Requejada

    September 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Santander - Requejada 22K
    Beautiful day, great walk, on roads but thru small towns, plenty to see. Took train 2 min across bridge Boo to Mogro, lost arrows. Really long getting into Requejada, last 5 k slog, pretty ugly. Got there about 4, so 6.5 h walking. Hostel ok but no town, nothing to go see, no fun. Walked to supermarket, got supplies, had bad pizza inside. Not many people in the hostel.Read more

  • Day 11

    Requejada - Cobreces 23 K

    September 14, 2017 ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Rain to start, about 10 k to Santanilla la Mar, old medieval town. Coffee there, then town by town to Cobreces. Long walk but good. Got in by 4, checked into hostel run by Cistercian monks. Kind of weird, long rows of beds, not many people, only 5 E. Walked down to the beach. Missed my chance for supper (bar not open after 4) so only bread and cheese today. Went to vespers, nice. Got to bed late, didn't get to sleep til 10.Read more

  • Day 12

    Comillas

    September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Up at 7:30, out a little after 8. Raining pretty good at first but calmed down. Nice walk through little lanes but I was tired, shoulders hurt. I decided that this route is too isolated. What I really liked about first week was seeing the same people over and over, creating community. Now I was feeling lonely, am out of sync with the stages in the guidebook so was staying in hostels with too few people. I was also finding the walking with a pack hard. So I decided that for today, I'm only doing 10 k, staying in Comillas which is an interesting, bustling town. Then I planned to look at route, consider going down to Frances for last week into Lugo, for a different experience. Maybe using pack service too, as I really liked the walking. Arrived Comillas 10:30, had coffee and read paper. Walked around town looking for the hostel, found it about 12:30. Already a line of about 10 waiting. Nice Russian couple said they would watch my pack, so I went and had lunch - melon with ham was good, chicken and fries ok. I think sticking with the egg dish would be just as good. Back to the hostel by 2. Saw the 2 young Frenchmen from last night in line; they were feeling sorry for me because the hostel was full, but my pack was in front of theirs😏. Also saw older French couple from Requejada, no place for them so I helped them find another place, made phone call for them. That felt good. Long wait to get into hostel, had a nice bed in room downstairs but group of 4 asked me to move into big room upstairs so they could be together, I did although kind of regretted it. Kept on raining off and on, I walked around some. Slept ok , until 8.Read more

  • Day 13

    San Vicente de la Barquera

    September 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Another rainy day - so far, pretty wet! I was talking with a guy who said he walked for 60 days with only 3 days of rain. At this point I was at 8 rainy days out of 11. In general it's fairly warm, although today I got a little chilled, so it's not unmanageable, but it got a little old to always have wet feet. Most days were a mix of rain and sun; only one day have I been stuck inside the rest of the day after I got to where I was going. Got to outside San Vicente, sat in cafe while it poured, read paper and did puzzles. Walked into San Vicente with Danish guy named Jacob. We saw a bunch of pilgrims on the sidewalk, found that hostel was closed (bedbugs). A bunch of us rented an apartment - Jacob and I and 2 German girls on mattresses on the floor in living room, 7 others in 3 bedrooms. It turned out to be a really good situation, we ate together and connected. The Australians gave me some ideas for adjusting pack so shoulders won't hurt. San Vicente another beautiful coastal town.Read more

  • Day 14

    Columbres

    September 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    San Vicente - Columbres 17 k
    Nice walk, no rain! Walked a little more with Jacob, he's off to the Santo Toribio route. I really enjoyed connecting with him; over the two days we did a couple things together and it was fun to have someone to be with. I got to Columbres at about 1 o'clock; luckily they let me into the hostel early, along with a Danish guy; others had to wait. It was Sunday so stores were closed. I walked into town, saw the museum of Emigration which was fairly interesting. The hostel ended up fairly full, including the French guys I've been seeing over and over again, Jeremie and Louis. I didn't really talk much to anybody.Read more

  • Day 15

    Llanes

    September 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Columbres - Llanes 23.5 K (total 200 K)
    I planned to go only 9 km to stop at the hostel in Pendueles that had a communal meal, but I got there by 11:30, and the town didn't look that interesting, and I couldn't find the hostel, so I kept walking. I encountered a couple of people from Quebec, and a French guy, so got to speak French. The walk was great and my energy was good. It started raining at about noon, got heavier, and then raining off and on. At the end I was on a path paralleling the sea, with a German guy. The path seemed to go on and on forever. We could see the city but didn't seem to be getting closer. It really started to come down as we entered the city, and it was almost 4 o'clock. I was going to go to the hostel but it was raining so hard, and as I got into the city I saw an English-speaking guy coming out of a hotel. I asked him how much the rooms were and he said $40, which sounded pretty good, so I got a room of my own. I was ready for a good night's sleep. I walked around a little, did a little computer work. Good long walk today, intermittent shoulder pain but nothing bothersome. My legs and feet were tired at the end of the day.
    Overall the hostels have been really good. They are definitely what make the trip affordable, and for the most part enjoyable. Along the hundreds of miles of all of the Caminos, every 5 to 10 miles there is a pilgrim hostel. They generally cost $10-$20 a night. My route was along the coast, and passing through many tourist towns. Can you imagine getting a bed for $10 a night in Kennebunkport? It's really a pretty amazing system. On the other hand, the accommodations are fairly bare bones. The hostels don't open until three, and sometimes there is a line around the building and people are turned away. I've only had to wait in line once, and have always gotten a room. They are able to fit lots of people into a small space with the use of bunkbeds; I was even in one hostel where the beds went up three levels. Luckily I've only been on the top bunk once. Of course that was a bunkbed that did not have a ladder but rather a bar about 6 inches from the bottom bunk and then another one 6 inches below the top. To get into bed, I used a technique consisting of an initial lurch and then a hoist, twist, and thud onto the bed. Very reminiscent of Simone Biles mounting the uneven parallel bars. All of the hostels have a place to shower, a place to wash out your clothes, and lines to hang the clothes on. Most of them have some sort of outdoor space to hang out in, and some have basic kitchen facilities. They are certainly a good place to meet other pilgrims, and there are some that make a special effort to create community among the pilgrims, such as Guemes. There they have a communal dinner and a talk about the Camino, and we did some singing.. It was really a special place. You have to be out of the hostel by 8 (sometimes as late as 9).
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  • Day 17

    Waymarking

    September 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    One of the hardest things about the Camino is staying on it. Th route is marked with yellow arrows, supplemented by signs, shells, and other markers. When you consider that there are more than a thousand miles of routes to mark, it's not surprising that there are a few spots that are less-than-clearly marked. Also, when the path takes to the scrub brush, or the beach, there's really no place to put a mark. (It's amazing how much yellow moss can look like an arrow!). I think I've only been totally off the trail once, but there have been many times that I thought I was lost, and it made me so happy to see a friendly little yellow arrow. In Asturia, you go in the direction AWAY from where the shell points, but in Galicia it's the other way around. Shells are pretty but arrows are clear.

    I'm happy to report that we've had 2 beautiful rain free days! Usually I'm walking with the Picos (like the Alps) on one side and the ocean on the other - stunning scenery all around me!

    Play the game of "find the arrow" below!
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  • Day 21

    A Day in the life

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Every day on the Camino is different in terms of being in a new place, seeing different things and people. However, there is a rhythm that is common to all the days.
    In my first hostel I saw that we had to be out by 8 so I set my alarm for 7:30. Ha! What a waste of time. At about 6 AM the rustlers start in, people quietly gathering their possessions or maybe just counting their money, I don't know. Sometimes you get a bonus half an hour to an hour to sleep a little bit more, but by 7 people are no longer trying to be quiet, and the lights generally go on at 7 or 730. It takes 15 minutes to get dressed and packed (wearing the same clothing every day since Labor Day makes the dressing easier), so I'm usually out by 8 or 830. Usually the hostel is not close to a place to get coffee, but even when it is I find that it's nice to walk for an hour before getting coffee and something sweet, it tastes SOO good and lubricates the joints. Then I walk for a couple of hours, stop briefly for a piece of fruit, walk a few more hours. I try to stop around 1 or 2 o'clock for a real break, meaning that I take off my backpack and my shoes and have some bread, cheese, chocolate. I've always almost always arrived by 3 or 4 o'clock, check in and get a bed (with any luck at all), take a shower, wash out my clothes, maybe lie down for a minute. Then I'm ready to go explore. I might do another hour or two of walking the rest of the day, but that is sauntering in Keens , no backpack.
    Food is somewhat challenging on the Camino given the timing of meals in Spain. They have their midday meal between noon and three, and then restaurants shut down for any real food until 7 or 8 o'clock pm. It doesn't really work for me to wait until 8 PM to eat; I'm getting ready for bed by that time. At times it would be possible to have a noon meal as I'm walking, but I don't like the idea of sitting down and having a full meal before I've arrived where I'm going. So there are some days that I don't have a real meal. But in medium size towns , restaurants will serve snacks in the afternoon hours, so I often have dish called a tortilla which is somewhat like an omelette. It costs less than $2,, and the ice cream I have for dessert is about $2, so I'm eating on the cheap. I do work pretty hard at getting an apple, orange, and banana every day, and every once in a while I'll get in a salad or some vegetables.
    I love exploring the towns, especially the ones by the ocean, in the late afternoon. I like looking at the houses and sometimes chat with people. This is also a time that you can get to know other folks in the hostels. I'm usually in bed by nine, although it's hard to get to sleep before the last pilgrim has laid his or her little head down on the pillow, as it could be quite noisy before then. I'm actually sleeping quite well in the hostels, even with the law that there must be one snorer in each room.

    Today I'm taking a rest day in Oviedo. The camino that I'm walking has just split off from the coastal route and there are some hilly areas coming up, so I want to get ready. I also only have six days until my team comes to join me, and I need to be in good shape for them. We'll be climbing every mountain, fording every stream, fighting off alligators and bulls; strenuous times ahead! I also have to hone my leadership skills, being firm but kind, I iron fist in a velvet glove. Once they arrive on the 30th in Lugo, we will have a week to walk into Santiago and then a week to play around walking towards the coast. I'm looking forward to seeing them.

    No theme to the pictures today, just miscellaneous scenes.
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