• Camino 2017
sep. – okt. 2017

Camino 2017

Et 36-dagers eventyr av Camino 2017 Les mer
  • Reisens start
    4. september 2017

    Ready to go!

    3. september 2017, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    I!m flying out of Boston to Madrid tomorrow. From there I'll take a bus to Bilbao and spend the first night in a nice airbnb room. So I don't start walking until Wednesday. I'm doing the first three weeks solo, then will be joined by my sister Janet, niece Seikah, and friend Chris for the last two weeks. I'm a little nervous, but mostly excited for my big adventure!Les mer

  • Travel to Spain

    4. september 2017, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Monday 4th - Travel day, long but uneventful. Got to Brunswick at 11:30, almost didn't get a seat on the bus to Boston. Then tons of traffic, so a good thing I hadn't gotten a later bus. Pizza in airport, boarded without trouble. My seat was next to an old Spanish lady with a dog, so I got changed to a seat farther up front with good leg space and a nice guy next to me. At one point I was sure I was going to throw up but I didn't. I didn't sleep at all on the plane (not really tired), arrived Madrid airport 6 am.

    Tuesday 5th Got bus from airport to bus terminal without difficulty, just got on the 8:00 bus. Ride seemed long, didn't sleep, two times I was sure I was going to through up but I didn't. Bilbao quite large. I started to worry that I had never heard from my airbnb host Armando, tried to message him from the airbnb site with no results. I had to work at getting a cell phone (hard to figure out), then was able to call him. I'm pretty sure he didn't know I was coming but he said ok. I ate then took metro to Barakaldo. Unfortunately I should have taken the train, so I was in wrong place. Kept on calling Armando for directions which didn't work, finally figured out what I had done wrong, had to walk an extra thirty minutes. I was hot and tired by the time I got there. Good to get a shower and unpack. Talked with Armando who was a sweet man, language teacher. The duffle bag that Megan had gotten worked great for the plane and other transport, but I dragged it around too much, put hole in it and little one in backpack:(. To bed at 8:30, room super dark and I slept well.
    Les mer

  • Bilbao

    5. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A marathon trip to get here - car to Brunswick, almost didn't get a seat on the bus to Logan. And then all of my friends from MA were on the road with us, getting out of Maine after a holiday weekend. 6-hour flight was uneventful, but no sleeping. Into Madrid at 6 am (photo below), got 8 am bus to Bilbao, arriving at 1pm. Then I worked on getting a local prepaid phone so I could get in touch with my airbnb host. I got pretty confused getting to the house, so even though today wasn't an official Camino day, I got my steps in! Now I'm clean and sleepy, looking forward to getting out of cities and on the Camino tomorrow. I'm staying in a very modern apartment with a nice balcony.Les mer

  • Pobena - Wednesday 6th

    6. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Bilbao-Pobena, 17K
    Up at about 10 am, Armando was at work so I had the apartment to myself for breakfast and packing. Left at about noon. My first day of walking was good, light rain to start which got me over the phobia of "what will I do if it rains?"(answer- get wet. Big deal.) I had a hard time finding the route (as I wasn't on it to start), was so happy to see that first arrow! And the escalators going up the steep sidewalks - but unfortunately that was only a one-time thing. My first day was about 12 miles, some city walking but pedestrian paths at the end, and then beautiful beach. I walked the last 5K with a German girl, Elena, and checked into my first hostel, which I liked a lot. Very well organized, fairly small. Not a lot of Americans, which is good, but a lot of Germans so I'm still stuck speaking English :). Walked 1.2 k back to Arena to shop, had supper right by the water.So far, things are as I expected, but even better! The shoes are great and it feels really good to be doing this.Les mer

  • Castro Urdiales

    7. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Pobena - Castro Urdiales 17.5K
    Slept fine my first night; I set alarm for 7:30 as we had to be out at 8, but the lights came on at 7:30 so no need for alarm! Hostel had 40 beds, only 2 toilets, but it all worked out somehow. . Had breakfast in bar next to hostel with everyone else, gigantic chocolate croissant. Started walking at 8:30. First part along the coast, ,beautiful. Then the path split and what I thought would be coastal path was on a highway, climbing up. I was sure I was lost but finally came back in to coast. Then through some tunnels and rough climbs - I'm pretty sure that was wrong. Finally into Castro, beautiful walk along promenade but I was tired. To the hostel at 1:30, so 5 hours walk with one little break. Hostel not open till 3 so had lunch, sat around. Good walk but lots of doubt whether I was lost. Feet and back doing well, hips and legs hurt a bit. Went into city with Elenal, fun to talk. Beautiful day, walked breakwater. Went to library for internet but not available, oh well. Egg dish for supper, to bed early.Les mer

  • Liendo

    8. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Castro - Liendo, 20.6 K
    Slept ok, major snores but lying awake didn't bother me for some reason. Up and out early, after 5k got really good coffee and muffin. Walked with Elena and an American, Mike, works for Linde which is lincare. Beautiful route by water. Walked with Francois for a while, good to speak French. Stopped in village, went under bridge by water for lunch. Was feeling good, only 8 k more, but then trail started uphill and just went on and on. I was hot and tired, managed to keep going, listened to music for first time (not in the mood for podcast). Walked for a while with a Korean guy. Finally made it to Liendo. Hostel great, in little town. Found I had left soap (for use on clothes, body, hair) behind in Castro on day 2. Did yoga on the lawn. Met up with Elena and Mika again, chose not to go out to dinner with them, too tired. Slept ok.
    Castro - Liendo 20.6 k
    Les mer

  • Noja

    9. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Liendo - Noja - 20.2K.
    Beautiful leaving Liendo, up and over a big hill but I knew it was coming. Just in outskirts of Laredo when the skies opened. Packa was great but I got soaked from mid-thigh down. Rain stopped and I had coffee in town. Walked 5K along beach when it started raining again, very windy. Got the ferry to Santona, changed into Keens to let my socks dry. Walked out of town, another downpour. At least now I know that my feet are comfy with both sets of shoes even when wet. It finally stopped raining, but I had to climb a pretty big hill, completely muddy (clay) and slippery, a little scary but with poles and care I made it. Beautiful views of water the whole way. Walked into Noja on the beach. No pilgrim albergue so I stayed in a youth hostel. It was weird and I didn't like it. I was assigned to a room with 2 other women, perfectly nice but it felt isolated. The hostel is a little way out of town and it continued to pour on and off which was restricting. But only 10 €. I went out for usual egg dish, ice cream. One of these days I'll get a real meal! Doing about 12 miles a day which seems about right.Les mer

  • Guemes

    10. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Noja -Guemes 15.6k
    Beautiful walk to town, coffee by water. Then spent about 45 min trying to find arrows, which was ok because town very pretty. Asked a couple of people and finally found the route. Walked a while with an older Canadian couple which was nice. Stopped for kind of weird mushroom fry up, at least it was a veggie! Occasional light rain but mostly really nice day. The way to Guemes seemed long; I kept expecting to be there but the road went on and on. Finally got there, kind of in the middle of nowhere. WONDERFUL hostel. All arrivals were greeted with cup of cold water, food if hungry. Rooms really nice, green space in middle. I was in a room with Australians and kiwis, really nice people. I wandered down to the tiny village to get sweets, beautiful countryside. At 7:30 there was a talk in the chapel about the spirit of the albergue. I volunteer to translate for English, someone else for French. It was so much fun- the speaker was really funny and I tried (and mostly succeeded) in being funny too. I was famous at supper😌. After, there was a get-together in the chapel, uke and flute and singing. I interpreted again. Such a great group of people, a great place.Les mer

  • Santander

    11. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Guemes - Santander 17K (total to date about 100K)
    . We got breakfast in the hostel which was great. Raining off and on, mostly on, the whole way. Almost all oceanside paths which would have been great except they were super muddy which made for slow going. A few walks on the beach which was also tough. No real markers of distance so it felt long. Stopped raining in Somo. I took the ferry to Santander. Was in the municipal hostel by 2; I thought we'd have to wait til 3 but it was open. I was in same room as some folks from Frances, including Claude the other interpreter. Some other pilgrims from Guemes were laughing about that (in a nice way). I was tired, decided to take a rest day, found an Airbnb room for tomorrow for $25. Walked along the oceanside path - Santander really a beautiful city.Les mer

  • Rest day -Santander

    12. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I decided to take a rest day in the beautiful coastal city of Santander. I spent the first night there in the hostel (amazing how well I'm sleeping in the hostels), but the next morning while the good pilgrims slogged off in the rain, I had a nice coffee in a cafe/bar and checked into an airbnb room ($25). The room had only ONE bed in it, with no bunk over it, and I could put my stuff all over the place. It was also right in town, and Pilar (host) was very nice. I felt like I was at the Ritz! It rained off and on but I enjoyed the city, went to a museum (Centro Botin, modern art, didn't like that much), strolled along the shore without carrying 20 lbs; it was great. And I fulfilled the mandate of this blog site - found a penguin in the little zoo.Les mer

  • Requejada

    13. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Santander - Requejada 22K
    Beautiful day, great walk, on roads but thru small towns, plenty to see. Took train 2 min across bridge Boo to Mogro, lost arrows. Really long getting into Requejada, last 5 k slog, pretty ugly. Got there about 4, so 6.5 h walking. Hostel ok but no town, nothing to go see, no fun. Walked to supermarket, got supplies, had bad pizza inside. Not many people in the hostel.Les mer

  • Requejada - Cobreces 23 K

    14. september 2017, Cóbreces ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Rain to start, about 10 k to Santanilla la Mar, old medieval town. Coffee there, then town by town to Cobreces. Long walk but good. Got in by 4, checked into hostel run by Cistercian monks. Kind of weird, long rows of beds, not many people, only 5 E. Walked down to the beach. Missed my chance for supper (bar not open after 4) so only bread and cheese today. Went to vespers, nice. Got to bed late, didn't get to sleep til 10.Les mer

  • Comillas

    15. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Up at 7:30, out a little after 8. Raining pretty good at first but calmed down. Nice walk through little lanes but I was tired, shoulders hurt. I decided that this route is too isolated. What I really liked about first week was seeing the same people over and over, creating community. Now I was feeling lonely, am out of sync with the stages in the guidebook so was staying in hostels with too few people. I was also finding the walking with a pack hard. So I decided that for today, I'm only doing 10 k, staying in Comillas which is an interesting, bustling town. Then I planned to look at route, consider going down to Frances for last week into Lugo, for a different experience. Maybe using pack service too, as I really liked the walking. Arrived Comillas 10:30, had coffee and read paper. Walked around town looking for the hostel, found it about 12:30. Already a line of about 10 waiting. Nice Russian couple said they would watch my pack, so I went and had lunch - melon with ham was good, chicken and fries ok. I think sticking with the egg dish would be just as good. Back to the hostel by 2. Saw the 2 young Frenchmen from last night in line; they were feeling sorry for me because the hostel was full, but my pack was in front of theirs😏. Also saw older French couple from Requejada, no place for them so I helped them find another place, made phone call for them. That felt good. Long wait to get into hostel, had a nice bed in room downstairs but group of 4 asked me to move into big room upstairs so they could be together, I did although kind of regretted it. Kept on raining off and on, I walked around some. Slept ok , until 8.Les mer

  • San Vicente de la Barquera

    16. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Another rainy day - so far, pretty wet! I was talking with a guy who said he walked for 60 days with only 3 days of rain. At this point I was at 8 rainy days out of 11. In general it's fairly warm, although today I got a little chilled, so it's not unmanageable, but it got a little old to always have wet feet. Most days were a mix of rain and sun; only one day have I been stuck inside the rest of the day after I got to where I was going. Got to outside San Vicente, sat in cafe while it poured, read paper and did puzzles. Walked into San Vicente with Danish guy named Jacob. We saw a bunch of pilgrims on the sidewalk, found that hostel was closed (bedbugs). A bunch of us rented an apartment - Jacob and I and 2 German girls on mattresses on the floor in living room, 7 others in 3 bedrooms. It turned out to be a really good situation, we ate together and connected. The Australians gave me some ideas for adjusting pack so shoulders won't hurt. San Vicente another beautiful coastal town.Les mer

  • Columbres

    17. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    San Vicente - Columbres 17 k
    Nice walk, no rain! Walked a little more with Jacob, he's off to the Santo Toribio route. I really enjoyed connecting with him; over the two days we did a couple things together and it was fun to have someone to be with. I got to Columbres at about 1 o'clock; luckily they let me into the hostel early, along with a Danish guy; others had to wait. It was Sunday so stores were closed. I walked into town, saw the museum of Emigration which was fairly interesting. The hostel ended up fairly full, including the French guys I've been seeing over and over again, Jeremie and Louis. I didn't really talk much to anybody.Les mer

  • Llanes

    18. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Columbres - Llanes 23.5 K (total 200 K)
    I planned to go only 9 km to stop at the hostel in Pendueles that had a communal meal, but I got there by 11:30, and the town didn't look that interesting, and I couldn't find the hostel, so I kept walking. I encountered a couple of people from Quebec, and a French guy, so got to speak French. The walk was great and my energy was good. It started raining at about noon, got heavier, and then raining off and on. At the end I was on a path paralleling the sea, with a German guy. The path seemed to go on and on forever. We could see the city but didn't seem to be getting closer. It really started to come down as we entered the city, and it was almost 4 o'clock. I was going to go to the hostel but it was raining so hard, and as I got into the city I saw an English-speaking guy coming out of a hotel. I asked him how much the rooms were and he said $40, which sounded pretty good, so I got a room of my own. I was ready for a good night's sleep. I walked around a little, did a little computer work. Good long walk today, intermittent shoulder pain but nothing bothersome. My legs and feet were tired at the end of the day.
    Overall the hostels have been really good. They are definitely what make the trip affordable, and for the most part enjoyable. Along the hundreds of miles of all of the Caminos, every 5 to 10 miles there is a pilgrim hostel. They generally cost $10-$20 a night. My route was along the coast, and passing through many tourist towns. Can you imagine getting a bed for $10 a night in Kennebunkport? It's really a pretty amazing system. On the other hand, the accommodations are fairly bare bones. The hostels don't open until three, and sometimes there is a line around the building and people are turned away. I've only had to wait in line once, and have always gotten a room. They are able to fit lots of people into a small space with the use of bunkbeds; I was even in one hostel where the beds went up three levels. Luckily I've only been on the top bunk once. Of course that was a bunkbed that did not have a ladder but rather a bar about 6 inches from the bottom bunk and then another one 6 inches below the top. To get into bed, I used a technique consisting of an initial lurch and then a hoist, twist, and thud onto the bed. Very reminiscent of Simone Biles mounting the uneven parallel bars. All of the hostels have a place to shower, a place to wash out your clothes, and lines to hang the clothes on. Most of them have some sort of outdoor space to hang out in, and some have basic kitchen facilities. They are certainly a good place to meet other pilgrims, and there are some that make a special effort to create community among the pilgrims, such as Guemes. There they have a communal dinner and a talk about the Camino, and we did some singing.. It was really a special place. You have to be out of the hostel by 8 (sometimes as late as 9).
    Les mer

  • Waymarking

    20. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    One of the hardest things about the Camino is staying on it. Th route is marked with yellow arrows, supplemented by signs, shells, and other markers. When you consider that there are more than a thousand miles of routes to mark, it's not surprising that there are a few spots that are less-than-clearly marked. Also, when the path takes to the scrub brush, or the beach, there's really no place to put a mark. (It's amazing how much yellow moss can look like an arrow!). I think I've only been totally off the trail once, but there have been many times that I thought I was lost, and it made me so happy to see a friendly little yellow arrow. In Asturia, you go in the direction AWAY from where the shell points, but in Galicia it's the other way around. Shells are pretty but arrows are clear.

    I'm happy to report that we've had 2 beautiful rain free days! Usually I'm walking with the Picos (like the Alps) on one side and the ocean on the other - stunning scenery all around me!

    Play the game of "find the arrow" below!
    Les mer

  • A Day in the life

    24. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Every day on the Camino is different in terms of being in a new place, seeing different things and people. However, there is a rhythm that is common to all the days.
    In my first hostel I saw that we had to be out by 8 so I set my alarm for 7:30. Ha! What a waste of time. At about 6 AM the rustlers start in, people quietly gathering their possessions or maybe just counting their money, I don't know. Sometimes you get a bonus half an hour to an hour to sleep a little bit more, but by 7 people are no longer trying to be quiet, and the lights generally go on at 7 or 730. It takes 15 minutes to get dressed and packed (wearing the same clothing every day since Labor Day makes the dressing easier), so I'm usually out by 8 or 830. Usually the hostel is not close to a place to get coffee, but even when it is I find that it's nice to walk for an hour before getting coffee and something sweet, it tastes SOO good and lubricates the joints. Then I walk for a couple of hours, stop briefly for a piece of fruit, walk a few more hours. I try to stop around 1 or 2 o'clock for a real break, meaning that I take off my backpack and my shoes and have some bread, cheese, chocolate. I've always almost always arrived by 3 or 4 o'clock, check in and get a bed (with any luck at all), take a shower, wash out my clothes, maybe lie down for a minute. Then I'm ready to go explore. I might do another hour or two of walking the rest of the day, but that is sauntering in Keens , no backpack.
    Food is somewhat challenging on the Camino given the timing of meals in Spain. They have their midday meal between noon and three, and then restaurants shut down for any real food until 7 or 8 o'clock pm. It doesn't really work for me to wait until 8 PM to eat; I'm getting ready for bed by that time. At times it would be possible to have a noon meal as I'm walking, but I don't like the idea of sitting down and having a full meal before I've arrived where I'm going. So there are some days that I don't have a real meal. But in medium size towns , restaurants will serve snacks in the afternoon hours, so I often have dish called a tortilla which is somewhat like an omelette. It costs less than $2,, and the ice cream I have for dessert is about $2, so I'm eating on the cheap. I do work pretty hard at getting an apple, orange, and banana every day, and every once in a while I'll get in a salad or some vegetables.
    I love exploring the towns, especially the ones by the ocean, in the late afternoon. I like looking at the houses and sometimes chat with people. This is also a time that you can get to know other folks in the hostels. I'm usually in bed by nine, although it's hard to get to sleep before the last pilgrim has laid his or her little head down on the pillow, as it could be quite noisy before then. I'm actually sleeping quite well in the hostels, even with the law that there must be one snorer in each room.

    Today I'm taking a rest day in Oviedo. The camino that I'm walking has just split off from the coastal route and there are some hilly areas coming up, so I want to get ready. I also only have six days until my team comes to join me, and I need to be in good shape for them. We'll be climbing every mountain, fording every stream, fighting off alligators and bulls; strenuous times ahead! I also have to hone my leadership skills, being firm but kind, I iron fist in a velvet glove. Once they arrive on the 30th in Lugo, we will have a week to walk into Santiago and then a week to play around walking towards the coast. I'm looking forward to seeing them.

    No theme to the pictures today, just miscellaneous scenes.
    Les mer

  • Pilgrims

    28. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I may be biased, but I have found pilgrims to be a delightful bunch, on the whole. There are two major age groups- under 30 (no kids, free and easy) and over 60 (I've met two people celebrating retirement and one celebrating the last child leaving the house). I was hoping that I would get senior privilege and respect but I am one of the younger of the older people so I don't get anything I don't deserve. I have met pilgrims from all over the world. The Germans certainly are the majority but I have encountered people from France, Belgium, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Romania, Russia, Slovenia. I have only met one Asian pilgrim, from South Korea. There are not very many Americans on this Camino, which is good. Not that I have anything against Americans; some of my best friends are Americans. But I didn't come over to Spain to hang out with people from the US. Some are doing long distances. A woman I met from France did 500 km in France alone, and will do another 1000 km in Spain. Others are doing shorter distances. There is no competition about how many kilometers you've walked; people respect that everybody's Camino is different. I met one older man who has a bad back and he was pulling his possessions behind him in a little trolley (see below). That day was so wet and muddy that I think he eventually had to take to the road.

    I am coming to the end of my time as a solo traveler. I will finish this part of the Primitivo today, and tomorrow get transportation to Lugo to meet my team (sister Janet, niece Seikah, friend Chris). The walking has been beautiful these last few days. I've left the coast and the walking is definitely much hillier but the scenery is very interesting. It's been in the 80s the last couple days so when you're walking on the road under the blazing sun it gets very hot, but in the shade it's quite pleasant.
    Les mer

  • Impressions of Spain

    29. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌫 14 °C

    Although Spain is very much like the United States in many ways, I certainly do not forget that I am in a foreign country while I'm here; there is so much that is different. I have been surprised at how very rural the areas I've been walking through have been. Even when there are big cities, there are farms, cows, horses, right up until the city and almost immediately after. There is very little urban sprawl, and in the smaller towns there are absolutely no gas stations, no chain stores. Even in the large cities I rarely saw a McDonald's or Burger King, and never anything like Starbucks or Dunkin' Donuts. Every small town has its own bar/café, and usually a bakery, pastry shop, and a meat shop.

    The people appear to be quite healthy, but of course I'm not seeing the ones sitting on the couch eating Cheetos. I see a lot of older men taking walks, not so much women. There are a lot of bicyclists, again mostly male. However, there is an enormous amount of smoking, and it's rare to be able to sit at an outside café and not have someone smoking right next to you.

    The Spanish are very family oriented and in the evening I enjoy watching children with their parents and grandparents in the plazas. The children seem to be willing to appear in public with their families at an older age then we see in the United States. I also see a lot of older people in wheelchairs who are eating out with their families or just being taken for walks, which seems unusual to me.

    I'm not sure how faithful they are to it but there are recycling bins in every small town, although certainly not in the hostels. I have seen some windmills, no solar panels. I was interested to see them harvesting algae one day and asked about it, as I thought they were putting it on the fields for fertilizer. It turns out that they put it on the fields to dry and then they package and sell it, largely to the Japanese, for food or food additives.

    In general people are very friendly and very helpful, especially to pilgrims. One day I was walking in the morning, caffeine deprived and looking forward to my 1st cup of coffee. I knew that there was a bar in a small town coming up so went looking for it. I was happy to see the table and chairs so set down my knapsack and went in the open door. There I found a somewhat confused woman who said that it was her house, and that the bar in the town was closed. But she then invited me in, made me some cafe con leche, opened a box of cookies, and sat down and chatted with me. She was so amazingly hospitable. I told her she would be in my blog. (Her name is Nieves, which means snows).

    Today I got a bonus beach day as the only way to get from where I was to Lugo, where I am meeting my team, was to go up to the coast and then take another bus tomorrow morning. The weather wasn't great but I enjoyed walking by the ocean again. And tomorrow, with any luck at all, I'll be with Janet, Seikah, and Chris, doing the last hundred kilometers into Santiago!
    Les mer

  • Team Camino

    2. oktober 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    My backup team arrived on Sunday: Janet, Seikah, and Chris. We met in Lugo, had just a little trouble finding each other but a happy ending. We had a great apartment to stay in and had fun exploring Lugo. The next day they started right out with a 20 km walk to San Roman. It was fairly hot and sunny, so we were tired when we arrived, but had a good day. Seikah's ankle and knee are bothering her a little so the second day she used a pack-transport service which helped a lot. Today we walked 14 km, are staying at a nice hostel which is in the middle of nowhere, so we're running a little low on food supplies but certainly in no danger of starvation. We also have to walk 7 k tomorrow before coffee, which is equivalent to Shackleton's hardships in my view 🙂 . Tomorrow night we will be in Melide, where the Primitivo meets the Frances route,so we will be catapulted into great throngs of people, going from hostels that have 25 beds to ones that have 150 beds. Should be sunny and warm for us, maybe a little cooler, the rest of the week.Les mer

  • The Hordes

    7. oktober 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    What a difference we have seen since arriving in Melide, where the Camino Frances, the most popular Camino,joins the Primitivo. That's where we saw our first "all things Camino" gift shop, and where I saw a Camino magnet with my name on it (literally, Sara - Camino de Santiago. Of course I got it). Coming out of Lugo we started to see frequent pristine distance markers about every five minutes. Since Melide all of them had the plate with the distance pried out (these were taken for souvenirs, I assume) and graffiti all over the markers and walls. It was usually entertaining graffiti, with little thoughts about the Camino or names of people who have been on it. One group that signed many markers was "Las Enfermeras Raras (the strange nurses). There are also many more people on the Camino and in the hostels, although there are correspondingly more hostels and we have not had any trouble finding places to stay. The weather has been beautiful though hot and sunny, so the last couple of hours in the afternoon can be somewhat challenging. We are all doing well and are excited to be almost to SantiagoLes mer

  • Santiago de Compostela

    9. oktober 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We arrived in Santiago on October 6, 102.4 kilometers from Lugo ( three 20 K days, three 12 to 15 K days.). Things continued to be somewhat crowded on the trail but never problematically so. You get to a big park overlooking the city and can see the spires of the cathedral, but then you have a rather slogging 5 km more until you actually reach the Cathedral. And unfortunately the cathedral is under construction so it is covered with scaffolding, which makes the pictures somewhat less beautiful. However, we were very glad to be there and to have arrived. We enjoyed looking around Santiago, although it's very touristy and very focused on pilgrims, with more Camino souvenirs than you can shake a walking stick at. We stayed at a very nice place just outside the walls. The following day we went to get our Compostela, which is the official certificate of completion . The line was about an hour long, which is relatively short. They look at your pilgrim credential and make sure that you have stamps along the last hundred kilometers, then they write out your certificate with your name in Latin (in my Saram Patriaam Roberts. (They just left Seikah's name alone :)). About 1000 pilgrims a day complete the Camino, but the office is open from 8 AM to 9 PM so the crowd is spread out to some extent. We are going to enjoy Santiago for a few days, then head to Finisterre, the end of the world.Les mer