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China 2024
  • Dean Parham

China 2024

A 24-day adventure by Dean Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 3, 2024
    Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    A wedding setup1View from the hotel window

    Arrive in Shanghai

    May 4, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We're here after a pleasant enough trip (although seats on the plane weren't the most comfortable ever experienced. First impressions. They don't do skies well here -- cloud/smog mix. They seem to want to test the patience of foreigners at passport control. A population of 1..4 billion people and they can only spare 3 of them to sit at the passport desk. City looks pretty modern and the car fleet is flash and new. Staying in the old French concession which has some interesting architecture. Went for a walk and found a decent coffee. Wasn't expecting that.Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler

    Interesting fact

    May 4, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    To own a car here you have to have a licence -- have your licence plates. You have to buy them at auction and that can cost around $25,000! Once you've outlayed that, you then can go and buy a car.
    If on the other hand you buy an electric car, no licence fee.Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    The museum
    A carving detailNear the Yuyuan Gardens1In the GardensTian Zi Fang

    A snapshot of Shanghai

    May 5, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Since we arrived a day early for the tour, we had time to investigate Shanghai on our own. And since my personal tour director has previous China experience, off we leapt. Metro to the Shanghai museum. Like much in town it is modern -- and impressive. The furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties was the highlight. Superb. Unfortunately the ceramics we not on show as they are being moved. Then to the Yuyuan Gardens. There was more of the press of humanity here that you might expect, althoughstill not really bad. Narrow lanes, Chinesee architecture and tourist stalls. The Gardens themselves had a calmness and were quite impressive. Then to a shopping district Tian Zi Fang where old houses in random lane ways had been converted into shops. Then back to the Metro stop near the hotel where I thought to advise the tour director on which way to go. This turned out to be 180 degrees in the wrong direction. And it was a while before we thought to ask a young couple about our position on the globe. After consulting WeChat they sent us on our way from whence we had come. Back at the hotel we met the group for a drink and a welcome dinner.Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Bird socialisation
    Took this photo because so many local influencers were onto itThe church seats about 2,5001This area was rice paddies about 30 years agoAt the Peace Hotel1One of these figures is a mythical Chinese beastThere are so many flowers everywhereWhere it all began1Smile!!

    Official start to the tour

    May 6, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We started off with a stroll around the district. There was a nearby park where people bring their birds to 'socialise' and they can have a chat themselves. It is quite an appealing district with the French architecture and the leafy plain trees. We hopped on a bus to check out the unexpected sight of a Catholic cathedral which has managed to survive somehow. Then to the other side of the river and up the Shaghai Jimnao tower to take in a view of the smog. Got a very good coffee for $4.50. Walk along the Bund riverfront, a sticky beak in the Peace hotel, lunch back at the Yuyuan Gdns area and a look at the place where the Communist Party got going in 1921.Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Soong Ching Ling
    Her residenceThe old HSBC bankLatte art is alive and wellThe table at which the CCP was formed

    Another day in Shanghai

    May 7, 2024 in China ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We took a stroll to the former residence of Soong Ching Ling who was the wife of Sun Yet Sen, the father of Chinese independence (1911). He formed the Nationalist party which subsequently took issue with the communists. But SCL was so attached to her country that after SYS's death she went over to the communist cause where she became revered. Her residence was probably grand by Chinese standards but not flashy.
    The group went into the city centre where we split up to do our own thing. Sue and I went to an old art Deco bank, then the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, which over 4 floors was a bit bewildering for a boy from a small provincial city. After some canny shopping we went back to the site of the formation of the Chinese Communist Party. It was a bit disappointing to be truthful as it didn't attempt to convey an atmosphere or give English speakers access to the historical materials.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler

    Observations on Shanghai

    May 8, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    They say Shanghai is an international and not a Chinese city. I see what they mean. Put aside the 24 million residents and there's not a lot to distinguish it as Chinese. I liked it though. The parts we were in were interesting with Art Deco buildings green spaces flowers everywhere--even on the sides of highways -- interesting history and the whole place was immaculately clean. The people seemed friendly and happy enough. There weren't many foreigners around. Things are not busy as an empty domestic air terminal indicates. It's dear -- international prices.
    We saw a few beggars which was surprising. But apparently the safety net has some holes in it. Basically you have to work -- even if it's cleaning the streets or standing around guarding a door all day.
    They are cleaning up pollution eg EVs and electric scooters (petrol bikes banned). Scooters are the silent assassins on the pedestrian crossings.
    Comms are hopeless. WhatsApp works but nothing else for me. My VPN obviously hasn't been approved. Sue's works (Norton). She can also access emails etc through phone roaming.
    You have to use cash. Retail outlets don't accept cards (only WeChat payments on phones).
    The English signposting makes it reasonably easy to get around, as does the underground metro system. Young people speak enough English to help you out.
    Security cameras are everywhere. Our guide told us of one customer who lost his wallet (place unknown) and another who left his card in an ATM. Both were recovered within 24 hours by reviewing security footage. Would-be thieves are deterred by the ubiquitous camera coverage.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    The Sophia Cathedral
    The Unit 731 museumThings are more obviously Chinese here. Little English anywhereStreet foodSausages are the go here

    Harbin

    May 9, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We're now in Harbin, a village of 10 million people in the NE of China. It took a Maglev ride (at 300 k/hr) and a 3hr plane ride yesterday to get here. The Maglev was a demonstration gift from Germany but apparently the Chinese were not sufficiently impressed to use the technology elsewhere.
    Harbin has traces of Russian heritage. Russians came here to build the railway ending up in Vladivostok (which was once part of China). White Russians also came after the revolution.
    We are staying at the Modern Hotel which was built in tsarist times. Lots of wood and creaks. Olde world charm.
    This morning we went off to the Unit 731 Museum. The Japanese invaded and took control of northern China in 1932 or thereabouts. They were after resources. They also set up a research centre on chemical and biological weapons -- unit 731. They experimented and fine tuned on the locals. It's an unheralded war crime which was overlooked by the Americans in return for all their well documented research. The Museum was in an impressive building, told a story that had to be told but was obviously not uplifting.
    But we cheered up over some excellent dumplings which are a Harbin specialty. Then a visit to the Sophia Cathedral -- a remaining Russian Orthodox church -- and a stroll along the river.
    We are something of celebrities here. Lots of stares and photos taken and parents thrusting their young children at us to say 'Hallo'    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Note I had finished while others still waited to be served

    To Beijing

    May 10, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had a Disneyland night last night with dinner at a Russian restaurant Tatoc complete with Chinese people speaking Russian, a serenading saxophonist and absolutely chaotic service. A bit of fun in the travel experience.
    It was an early start this morning to get to the train station. The hotel packed breakfast boxes for us with sausages and an egg. We caught the high speed train to Beijing. (1100 km as the crow flies).Even travelling at up to 303 km/hr it took 6 hours. We had sausages for lunch.
    The hotel is right in the middle of town although it might have seen better days.
    We'll go out to dinner in a while. Hope it's not sausages.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Outside Mao's mausoleum
    Our guide Maureen was sent away at 17 in the Cultural Revolution and spent 5 years living in a caveInside the Forbidden CityNoodles for lunchThe Temple of HeavenThe tea tastingDinner at the WangsMr Wang even provided some entertainmentA bit of community activity in the hutong

    Out and about in Beijing

    May 11, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Big day today. Tiananmen Square. It's huge. The locals say it holds a million people -- or 500,000 Americans. The scale of the Forbidden City was amazing. Apparently there are 9,999 buildings.
    We then journeyed somewhere and had the local noodle specialty for lunch.
    On to the Temple of Heaven, where the emperor used to drop in from time to time.
    Then to a tea tasting/ceremony which was pretty interesting and enjoyable.
    Finally a walk around a hutong, which is an enclave of small houses with communal toilets. We had dinner at Mr & Mrs Wang house. All 12 of us crowded around a small table in their upstairs bedroom and had dishes prepared by Mrs Wang. A special experience really.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler

    (Not) hitting the wall

    May 12, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Sad faces on please. We didn't make it with the group to the Great Wall today. I've come down with a heavy cold and needed to isolate. Despite my protestations, Sue kindly stayed to mop my brow and fetch food and stuff. She has seen it before and will be treated to Peking duck tonight.Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Pingyao main street with wall tower1The old and the newOur hotel room1Inside room. Not sure yet what the box is forLikely to be tourists who like to dress upA manhole cover

    On to Pingyao

    May 13, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We went to one of 7 Beijing railway stations ( you would need a month in a place to work out where to go -- or go on a tour) to catch the fast train to Pingyao. It took a bit over 4 hours (600 km from Beijing).
    (Old) Pingyao is the last remaining walled city with narrow streets and lanes. Since cars are banned we came to our quaint but comfortable hotel by golf cart. The hotel is an old residence that has been done up rather tastefully. We ate in and had a very nice set menu culminating in banana fritters and strawberry ice cream. Now I wasn't expecting that!    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    1At the monastery
    Intricate carvings were a feature. Photo taken before I saw the 'No Photography' signGate to the Wong family compoundOne of many courtyard roomsJust a part of one of the compounds1We kept our spanning to an absolute minimumA feature of the compound (while we were there)

    Out of Pingyao

    May 14, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Today's sojourn took in two major sights and a lunch. First up, a Buddhist monastery dating back to (I think) the 4th century, but no longer in operation. Buddhism came to China from India via Tibet and took hold without getting really big.
    We then journeyed on to the Wong family compound. He made his money initially in tofu and then some. He had 5 compounds, each of which is huge. Totally excessive really and nearly all of it reallocated by the communists.
    Lunch was at a nearby restaurant. Food out here is spicier.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    At the Confucian templeAt the coffee temple1

    On to Xi'an

    May 15, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Another day and there has been no spanning. We had the morning to wander as the train to Xi'an didn't leave until mid afternoon. We checked out a banking museum (the world's first is said to have originated in Pingyao), a coffee shop and a Confucian temple.
    A few other things while I think of it...
    The infrastructure in China is amazing. 6 lane highways everywhere (some toll roads), fast trains everywhere and a communication system that works everywhere -- for locals. There are some signs of over-construction and who knows about costs. But it's impressive.
    They have taken steps to reduce pollution. There have been clear days. You don't see a lot of solar or wind farms but they have planted heaps of trees.
    Still have not seen a lot of Westerners. Apparently the Chinese are not really concerned about attracting foreign tourism. There's enough domestic tourists to keep them going. And that reflects generally higher prosperity. That said, conditions still appear a bit softer at the moment.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    2
    A warrior with a modern touchMy progress was impeded by CSE (Chinese Samurai Equivalent)

    Terracotta warriors

    May 16, 2024 in China ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    A full-on tourist day. Off to the terracotta warriors, which were discovered by a farmer digging a well in about 1974. You should see the place now. Quite an enterprise and a place to come to experience the press of humanity. Pretty amazing though--an extraordinary effort to send off one person, albeit an emperor.
    This evening we went to a dinner & show at the urging of the local guide. It was Western tourist thick but, nevertheless, the show was quite spectacular and entertaining. Lots of dancing and drumming and flowing costumes plus the odd haughty pose.
    It's been hot the last few days -- into the 30s and 37 forecast tomorrow.
    Xi'an is quite a chic modern hamlet of 11 million people. Quite a few unfinished abandoned apartment buildings around. In another sign of how tough things have been, at least 3 of our local guides are just getting back to work after 4 years. 2 have said they haven't spoken English in that long.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    The crowds jostling to get into the museumA glimpse at apartment lifeThe Yellow RiverRoss, our excellent tour leader

    Little warriors

    May 17, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Before taking the train out west, we went to another burial site (at the Yangling Museum) where they have unearthed soldier guards and animals that are about 1/3 life-size. They come from the Han dynasty over 2,000 years ago. Unlike the terracotta warriors, they have left them as they found them with the ravages of time and looting. Unlike the terracotta warriors, there was no one else there!! You could get more out of the experience.
    3 hrs by train out west we came to Lanzhou a place of a meagre 4.5 mill.
    The landscape is different out here. The soil has gone from chocolate to dusty tan. We are on the edge of the Gobi Desert. Lanzhou used to be where the caravans crossed the Yellow River on the Silk Road. More of a Tibetan influence in the gene pool and more Muslims.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    The landscape on the plateauSome terracingThe green tea with various berries and fruitsHow it is meant to be drunkThe landscape higher upThe monastery

    Now in high country

    May 18, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    That's the end of trains. We loaded onto a bus and headed into the mountains. We went along a valley plateau, with every flat square cm under crop against a mountain backdrop on both sides. A fair bit made flat by terracing. Dry dusty looking.
    We stopped in a city for lunch for a Muslim tea and soup. This part was very much Muslim country. We had become mid-celebrities at this point as very few Westerners range up here.
    We drove on and up to about 2,500 metres and stopped at a Buddhist monastery built in the 14thC. It was fascinating to wander around and see the mostly indigenous Tibetan people. We are staying in the town (Xiahe) that has grown around the monastery as apparently tourism is a big item.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    View from the hotelInside 1 of 2 monasteries

    Yak country

    May 19, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Further elevation today into the grasslands -- yak country. This is the territory of the nomadic Tibetans. Yaks and yak butter are the overwhelming production items. The folk have permanent residences where they hunker down for the winter with their herd in an enclosure, but they roam around and live in tents at other times.
    We have ended up in a little place called Lang Mu Si, which is basically another monastery town. Surprising to see lots of young boys from probably 6 all dressed up in monk outfits.
    Much colder up here. Puffer jacket and beanie weather.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Memorial to the Long March which passed through these parts. It cemented Mao's status as leader.Most of the marchers perished in punishing conditionsA photo from the previous town1Some visiting girls who had hired local costumes

    Jiuzhaigou valley

    May 20, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The hotel was pretty good but the mattress was not to Western specification and the breakfast was not to Western tastes. And altitude was getting to some of us.
    Nevertheless, we bussed off on a beautiful day and traversed some beautiful countryside. We got up to about 4,000 metres before descending fairly sharply. We are now in Sichuan province as the spiciness of lunch noodles confirmed.
    The land is pretty open with yaks and tents dotted around. Towns pop up seemingly randomly and there seems to be a development push by the Chinese. Fast rail construction is at a pace. See a mountain here and they just bore a tunnel through it. No mucking around.
    So we've checked into the Howard Johnson Resort Hotel (which is about the same as it sounds). It's on the fringe of the Jiuzhaigou National Park, which we will explore tomorrow.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    Sue frocked up for a poseSue kitted up for the Long Sleeve Dance

    The national park

    May 21, 2024 in China ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Stunning scenery. Reminiscent of the Rockies with turquoise tarns, steep mountains and dense forests. It was great to commune with nature, even if you had to commune along with 200,000 other tourists. (I exaggerate but it is a big tourist destination and the press of humanity did show up.)
    In the evening we went to a Tibetan song and dance extravaganza. It was pretty good but the behaviour of the Chinese audience was 'interesting '    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler

    On to Chengdu

    May 23, 2024 in China ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    There was another foray into the national park in the morning and then a bus trip back up the slope where we stayed overnight in order to reduce the length of the bus trip the next day (today) to Chengdu. That turned out to be 7.5 hours as it was.
    The trip was very scenic.
    It's hot -- about 35. Chengdu is a hamlet of maybe 18-20 million.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler
    As close as we got to a panda
    A few of the pandologists furtively seeking out a sighting of the pandaProof. We did see a section of a pandaThe gold mask is the pinnacle of the Jinsha Site collection

    Pandamania

    May 24, 2024 in China ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Apparently, China has sourced some pandas from Adelaide and housed them here in Chengdu. The city is panda mad (it seemingly does not have a lot else to offer).
    We journeyed out to the panda research and preservation centre and joined the PoH (press of humanity) in a bid to catch a glimpse of the elusive panda. Actually, it wasn't so much that the pandas were elusive. It was more that the PoH bulging around any hint of a panda made the task Herculean. In short, it was hot and humid and left one wondering about benefit-cost ratios.
    After a strategic retreat and a spot of lunch we visited the Jinsha Site Museum. They had discovered the remains of an ancient civilisation -- the Shu -- from about 3,000 years ago. The artefacts they unearthed showed an amazing artistry and skill in stone and metals. Quite interesting. (Well OK Chengdu does have something else to offer.)    Read more

  • Dean ParhamChina 2024Traveler

    Here we are in NSW

    May 26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Just the short flight from Sydney remains for us to get home. China was good, impressive in many ways and provided a bit of adventure. Not straightforward to navigate (eg payments, communications) even in these modern times. You need a tour or lots of patience. The scale of things is very impressive (infrastructure, tourism) and make you wonder how much they need the rest of the world. On the other hand, the signs of an earlier property collapse make you wonder whether they depend on pushing 'the next big thing' (which will be hi tech industries). The people seemed good although they have a different approach to respecting personal space (that is also evident on the roads!). The food was ok -- some of it good but some of it a bit too out there or too much the same (more noodles). Overall, definitely worth a look.Read more

    Trip end
    May 26, 2024
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