Day 20: Frómista - Carrion de los Condes

June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

Mileage: 12.75 miles
Altitude gain: 364 feet
Altitude loss: 187 feet
Weather: very warm and sunny
Total mileage: 238.75 miles

An almost entirely flat day, which was a nice change, and I’m now about halfway to Santiago!

Angela and I went to a bakery in Frómista for breakfast, where we had large cafes con leche and split an absolutely enormous and delicious pastry with custard. (No pics because what happens on the Camino stays on the Camino!) Angela walked with me as far as the next little village, and then we had to say adios for now, since she had to walk back to catch her train to Madrid.

It almost felt like my first day again! I woke up really early, which was just as well, since a very bright LCD light turned on in our room for a few minutes at 6:10. (WTH?!) Anyway, I felt a little anxious and sad to leave Angela but excited to see what the day might bring. The Camino offered two options at that first village - one along the road and a slightly longer route along a creek. Of course I took the longer one, and it was an excellent choice, with shade trees, flowers, and a concert by lots of birds and some very excited frogs all along the way.

Two-thirds through the day the Camino rejoined the road, and after a nice lunch I walked along a quiet highway with no shade into Carrion. I made really good time and had the whole afternoon to rest, do laundry, and buy new leggings since the others died a slow and ignominious death over the past few days. I should be fresh and ready to go tomorrow!

1. Iglesia de San Martín in Frómista. Your screen isn’t dirty - those are birds enjoying the morning.
2. The Camino version of a truck stop
3.-7. The views along the creek path. So pretty!
8. I had walked about 10 miles when I came to Villalcázar de Sirga, and I was ready for a break! I really needed water and a shady spot to sit down and take my shoes off, and I was hoping to also find espresso, some fruit, and tortilla. The universe did me one better with vegetarian pizza. Note the ashtray - I can’t believe how much smoking there is in Europe!
9. and 10. The views along the highway were flat but still beautiful. I especially appreciated coming over a small hill and seeing the mountain range you see in the last pic. It seems that America isn’t the only place with purple mountains majesty and amber waves of grain!Read more