Day 33: Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

Mileage: 8 miles, but…
Altitude gain: 2,290 feet
Altitude loss: 135 feet
Weather: cool and cloudy: light rain for the last mile or so, and heavy rain in the evening
Total mileage: 391 miles

The first two miles of the day continued the gradual ascent along the river, with lovely misty views of the mountains. I stopped in the village of Las Herrerías for a pit stop and more coffee, when I came upon my Spanish friend Monica. She, of course, has collected a group of international friends, some of whom I met at coffee. She’s also developed blisters, so I think she was glad to walk slower with me. The next six miles were more or less straight up! We encountered a school group of 12-year olds walking (can you imagine being *that* teacher??) and made some other new friends. The views as we rose were spectacular, even with the rain clouds developing all around us.

We arrived at the top of the mountain midafternoon and had a celebratory beer. I took a nap and had a little soak in my unexpected bathtub! Dinner was a better-than-usual pilgrims’ dinner.

Only seven more days to go! I’m both sad that it’s almost over and also totally exhausted, so the thought of not punishing my feet and legs quite so much any more is appealing!

1., 2., 3. Misty morning. Look for the castle on the mountain in 1.
4. In Las Herrerías
5. and 6. Very steep but pretty!
7. Stopping to take in the views was quite rewarding and allowed me to rest.
8. Traffic was heavy! There were also horses returning to Las Herrerías since some people ride to the top instead of walking.
9. The view from the top
10. I don’t know what these structures are called but there have been a number of them in this area.Read more