Day 35 (ish): Ponferrada to Cacabelos

Mileage: 11.5 miles
Elevation gain: 457 feet
Elevation loss: 605 feet
Weather: Cool and cloudy at first. 80s and sunny in the late morning and afternoon.
Total mileage: 408 miles (even though these first days are repeats, I’m counting them!)

I woke before sunrise to catch the train to Ponferrada. It was a beautiful train ride through the mountains but the train windows were so filthy I didn’t attempt any pics. I arrived in Ponferrada just after 9am and walked a short distance to a sporting goods store, where I bought some poles. (I couldn’t bring mine since I carried my pack on the plane and you can’t carry on poles.) I realized later in the morning that I actually bought poles in this town two years ago after leaving mine behind. Ha. I started my official mileage/route after that, although it was about a mile to the actual Camino route.

I hadn’t consciously remembered that this particular stage was one of my favorites two years ago, but it was all there in my subconscious, apparently. I was surprised at how much I remembered! A truly excellent day. I really couldn’t have asked for nicer weather, either. I appreciate past Kate’s decision to start with little elevation gain. I didn’t encounter many other pilgrims today but did meet a woman from Slovakia named Eva. This old lady cannot believe she’s walking this thing in flimsy sandals.

I picked up the Camino at the Templar castle in Ponferrada. This is still spectacular, of course. I had a fantastic breakfast looking at the castle and then had my official start. Ponferrada is quite pretty. Lots of farmland with mountains in the distance followed, and the last few miles came through vineyards into Cacabelos.

I stayed at a hotel last time I was here but I’m in an albergue tonight. Side note: I really am at peace with my slow walking pace, but it all but assures I’ll be in the top bunk. Oh, well.Read more