Day 36: Cacabelos to Ambasmestas

Mileage: 15.25 miles
Elevation gain: 1,319 feet
Elevation loss: 899 feet
Weather: So beautiful! About 60 this morning. Maybe got up to 70s? Overcast much of the time. Nice cool breeze in the afternoon.
Total mileage: 423.25
2025 mileage: 26.75

Another gorgeous stage to repeat! The day started with an ascent out of Cacabelos through more vineyards with mountain views. A descent into Villafranca, and then up into green mountains. Much of the rest of the day was near (below) a highway, which wasn’t so nice, but the clear Río Valcarce ran beside the road/trail and the surrounding mountains were pretty. More bicyclists than cars or pedestrians on the slow incline up through two small villages and into my destination of Ambasmestas.

I did NOT stop for lunch at the place I had paella two days before I got sick last time. I don’t know that it was the paella, of course, but it felt safer to press on. Once again I was struck by how much I clearly remembered from two years ago. I guess that’s what being present will do for you?

One thing that came back to me today was how hard those last few miles can be. Everything starts to hurt at around 10 miles! I was very glad to stop for the day.

Last night’s dormitory was hot and noisy. I really hope the guy below me has a CPAP machine at home! It was easy to get up and hit the road by 6:45 since I was awake anyway.

Tonight promises to make up for that experience - this is easily the nicest albergue I’ve stayed in. There are only two other women and a cat in the large room where I’m staying. Very Boulder vibe here - Buddha statues, incense, massage-type music, art all over the walls. The lovely couple who owns the place are quite earthy. The woman coaxed a bird to sit in her hand when I walked in. I shit you not.

The albergue sits on the bank of a stream and I enjoyed standing in it to soak my feet and knees in the cold water. The dinner here was excellent - tomato soup, roast chicken with veggies, and a shredded apple/cream dessert situation. The other two pilgrims here are from California and London and we’ve had some nice chats, mostly about travel. I want to go to Croatia now. There were three additional guests at dinner, one being Victor, the man who owns and takes the horses up and down the next mountain. His picture is in my guidebook! Very interesting dinner conversation.

This village is having their big feast day party RIGHT outside our window. Live music and a bouncy castle. I’m told it will last until the wee hours. Hope I can sleep! They were playing a game right by our laundry line - looked like cornhole except with small round rocks that they were throwing at a metal object stuck in the ground. I asked what the game is called - llave (key); the metal object does kind of look like a key. I hope it was engrossing enough that they didn’t have time to mock my granny panties…

Tomorrow will be a hard day, climbing a mountain, but it’s going to be beautiful and cool! I am profoundly grateful for this weather. Fingers crossed it continues!Les mer