Day 37: Ambasmestas to Liñares

Mileage: 10.5 miles
Elevation gain: 2,622 feet!
Elevation loss: 570 feet
Weather: Cloudy, misty/drizzly, and cool to the point of cold!
Total mileage: 433.75 miles
2025 mileage: 37.25 miles

I remembered this climb (to O Cebreiro) as being difficult and beautiful, and this was the case again this year. The first four miles were an easy rise on asphalt, continuing to follow Río Valcarce. Very pretty mists on the surrounding mountains and absolutely lush vegetable gardens on the valley floor. The the climb began. Asphalt at first but then it turned into a very rocky trail, which I had remembered vividly. The weather was actually cold, with the mist/light rain and sweat from the exertion, plus some wind, made the 60ish weather less than comfortable. I kept reminding myself what the weather is like at home and tried to enjoy it.

The mountain views on the last half of the ascent are just spectacular. I just can’t get over how green these mountains are! I probably took 100 pictures, most of which are probably repeats from 2023, but I just want to have this view embedded on my brain!

O Cebreiro is as charming and busy as ever! This is where I got so sick last time. I had decided to go to the next village this time. I learned from last night’s albergue owner Knut that July is a quiet time on the Camino. I saw a lot of pilgrims on the trail today, but I think most stopped in O Cebreiro. I actually have tonight’s albergue to myself! This is odd but the quiet is nice, especially since last night’s party (an annual event, Knut told me; what luck!) stayed loud until 3 am and there were men still singing while I ate breakfast this morning!! Spanish stamina is remarkable.

I have stiff knees and what I profoundly hope are mosquito bites (as opposed to bedbug!) on my ankles. Otherwise holding up well. Tomorrow shouldn’t be too arduous and will bring the first new (to me) scenery.Les mer