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Americas Great Loop

The Great Loop from Florida follows the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, the Hudson River, the New York Canals, the Great Lakes, then south on the Inland Rivers to the Gulf Coast and back to FL to complete the Loop. Les mer
  • Aug 2 - 4: Savannah, GA

    2. august, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 30 °C

    After a 2-hr run (including a stop for brunch) down Hwy 17 to Savannah under threatening skies, I checked into the Hotel Indigo just in time to experience a torrential downpour that lasted for an hour. I had been invited out for some 'Southern hospitality' at Tybee Island, a 30-min drive from downtown Savannah, so I was lucky an Uber driver was prepared to brave the deluge to take me there.

    Sunday was a late start (I'd had a few Old Fashions) and I decided to repeat the Hop-On/Hop-Off 'Trolley Bus' tour of the city that we'd enjoyed in April on our voyage up the ICW. It was warm and humid, but not HOT, so a very tolerable day's outing. I snapped a few one-handed shots from the bus; there'll be better ones back in our April 21-22 Blog.
    Les mer

  • Aug 5: Of redoubts and railroads

    5. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    A wander through local history today. I came to the Georgia/South Carolina Low Countries out of an interest in the American Civil War, southern railroads in that era, and aspects around slavery. Today, I had a look at some Savannah history. Most things don't open here until 10:00 am, so there's no sense in getting up early and 'getting going', as there's nowhere except breakfast restaurants to go to. By 10:00 the heat is on and if there's any cloud, the humidity is up there too, so if you're walking around (I did 8,500 steps this day) you can really only manage 1 or 2 'things' before you want to return to the cool of your hotel I've got the car, but don't want to use that around central Savannah and the historic precinct in which my hotel is located.

    So, herewith, some history (including some from 'that other war'... the War of BRITISH Aggression).
    Les mer

  • Aug 6-8: Tatts, tiny ships, & touring

    10. august, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    I met a creative native of Savannah on the train; a talented museum curator, historian, and a published woman of letters (whose father had been a railroad locomotive engineer 😃). She generously invited me to a presentation she was giving at the Maritime Museum on the nautical influence on tattooing and some of the artists around Savannah who do it. We heard a description of the artists, the work they did and how they got started, and the nautical 'language' of sailor's tattoos (many of these illustrations have a shared meaning among seafarers). We also received a guided tour of the museum that ignited my passion for detail when I saw the brilliance and beauty of the models on display and read the history of each vessel - most of them having been early passenger vessels that plied the east coast or were part of Civil War and pre-war merchant marine fleets and navies.

    There's also a few images that I hope will serve to depict the Savannah that I've enjoyed so much these past few days.
    Les mer

  • Aug 8-10: The Cradle of The Civil War 1

    10. august, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    BLOG: "A regularly updated website or web page, typically one run by an individual or small group, that is written in an informal or conversational style". (Dictionary).

    I have received some gentle feedback that I say too much in some of the blogs. But a Blog is diaristic... not a Facebook post. The nature of my content is about to change for a while, as I'll be on the move and not wandering around taking a lot of photos.

    From the early days of the Revolutionary War, the occupants of colonial North America knew that you can never have too many forts. Especially on the east coast, their nascent ports were important to the development of colonial civilisation and, especially once the Civil War started, needed to be protected from outsiders bent on acquiring 'adverse possession'. So, I've visited a few (and reported on them here), but I'm not going to continue to describe the same thing and display the same images over again. Therefore, I'll report that I've seen Forts McAllister, Jackson, and Pulaski, and that you can find out all you want--if you're interested--by Googling them (and I heartily recommend that you do!).

    I also visited the museum at the Savannah Visitor Centre (the original Central of Georgia train station)... and spent a very worthwhile hour.

    Georgia was one of the original seven slave states that formed the Confederate States of America in February 1861, triggering the U.S. Civil War, and this has led to my focus in these southern parts. My time in Savannah, though, has necessarily come to an end, and it's time to hit the road back to Washington D.C. by way of the Civil War hinterland.

    Departing Savannah on Interstate 16, I head west for an hour, but not too far. Although my interest in the American Civil War absolutely includes General Sherman's wholly infamous 'March to the Sea" (you should Google this too) in which he led 55,000 infantry, 5,000 cavalry, and 2,000 artillerymen with 64 guns from Atlanta to capture Savannah (plus 2,500 supply wagons and 600 ambulances, and seized about 5,000 horses and 4,000 mules during the campaign!!!) , laying waste to all of Georgia that he passed through--which will never be forgiven by Georgians--I'm not interested in going to Atlanta in 2025. I would love to have been there, on a hill to watch Sherman's force move out, but I prefer a more quiet life as I 'follow the Civil war' north. So I turn off the freeway to follow US-1 and State Hwy-17 north to Athens for the night. This places me, serendipitously, on the Civil War Heartland Leaders Trail. I do take time to drive off the highway, including 3 miles down a dirt road, to visit the site of the Kettle Creek Battle, fought during the War of Revolution.

    So, I have to hit the road. I have 8 days to cover too much history and scenery before I have to catch a fast train in D.C. to take me to Boston, MA. I'll blog whatever I can manage.

    Bring the good old bugle boys, we'll sing another song!
    Sing it with the spirit that will start the world along!
    Sing it as we used to sing it, 50,000 strong!
    While we were marching through Georgia!

    Hurrah! Hurrah! We bring the jubilee!
    Hurrah! Hurrah! The flag that makes you free!
    So we sang that chorus from Atlanta to the sea!
    While we were marching through Georgia!
    Les mer

  • Aug 11: The Cradle of The Civil War 2

    11. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    And a railroad story. No photos, except for a couple of illustrations and a story to illustrate a gut-wrenching piece of misfortune that befell me today. More on that below.

    After a very pleasant drive from Savannah (but more enjoyable once off the freeway) I spent the night in Athens, GA, which is not without its own connections to the American Civil War. I did fail to go to Milledgeville, which I could have easily. That was a mistake. I'll have to do this again!

    That evening, as I studied my maps, it became clear to me that (A) I'd travelled west when I probably should have gone a bit more NORTH-west, and (B) if I was going to get to the places I wanted to visit and see the scenery on the way, I'd better get cracking, since I only had 8 days to complete this exercise and get back to D.C.

    With this imperitive in mind, I knew that a trip to Gainesville to see Confederate General James Longstreet's retirement house was out of the question. So, I had a hotel breakfast, visited the museum, and saddled up sometime after midday for a 350-mile, 5½ drive under a lowering sky from Athens, GA, to Fayetteville, NC, via Anderson (stop), then via the freeways (and one not-so-free-way) around Spartanburg and through Charlotte (plus a fuel stop somewhere), then US Route-74 around Monroe and Rockingham, then from Laurinburg up US-401 and into Fayetteville.

    After leaving Anderson, the clouds descended and torrential rain lashed those of us on I-85, and continued sporadically all the way to Fayetteville. Thus, with the time constraint and the need to drive to Fayetteville on a Monday, I missed visiting the National Railroad Museum & Hall of Fame at Hamlet, NC, as it's closed, isn't it, like so many other things on a Monday? At least, using the Rockingham Bypass and not having to stop for the railroad museum considerably streamlined my run to Fayetteville.

    So, tomorrow it's over toward Newton Grove to visit the site of the Battle of Bentonville (in which the South were defeated by the North and which preceded Lee's surrender to the Union army by a few weeks, and thus the end of 4 years of Civil War) and then onto US-258 for Newport News, VA, where I hope someone might show me around the Maritime Museum.
    Les mer

  • Aug 12-13: The Cradle of The Civil War 3

    14. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    The vague idea I’d had that I’d like to be able to stroll through the Civil War heartland at my leisure and visit every place that took my fancy, is well and truly dispelled and this realisation has meant that I have to keep moving. Another major factor is the weather. The rain has followed me from Savannah, and ‘outside’ locations are not fun in pouring rain. The reason for having headed across to Fayetteville was as a launching place to visit the Battle of Bentonville location as part of a run-up to getting further north to Newport News.

    The above battle was high on my mental list of priorities because the Confederate loss and surrender there in March 1865 presaged the overall Southern (Army of Northern Virginia) surrender to Union General Ulysses S. Grant a few weeks later. Later, I intend to drive from Newport News to Richmond and from there (hopefully) to be able to visit the site of the surrender in the town of Appomattox (I presume it’s grown to become a town by now).

    I had walked up to the Holiday Inn in Fayetteville (the mother of all army towns) as a member without reservation. They said, yes, you’ve got the last Standard Room. I said, “wow, you’re fully booked?” The receptionist said, “Yes, the local military keep us booked. Military personnel usually choose to stay here rather than in barracks on base. The local military usually have us booked out.” Being the argumentative bastard that I am, I pleaded, “why don’t they stay on base? The response from the receptionist was, “Them baa-acks at Bragg not nice.” 😂😂

    An interesting note about Fort Bragg: The base was initially established as Camp Bragg in 1918 as an artillery training ground because it had suitable terrain, adequate water, rail facilities, and a climate suitable for year-round training. It was originally named after Braxton Bragg, a former U.S. Army artillery commander and West Point graduate who later became a well-known Confederate general during the American Civil War. In 2023, the U.S. Department of Defense renamed the installation "Fort Liberty" due to controversy surrounding memorials to Confederate generals. In February 2025, the army changed the name of the installation back to "Fort Bragg", but now in honor of World War II paratrooper Roland L. Bragg.

    The next day, I drove from Fayetteville to Newton Grove in heavy rain and from there to the Bentonville battleground. They have a nicely appointed Visitor Centre at the site, so I launched my trusty brolly, and splashed across to it from the Jeep. That was certainly worth the effort and the $20 donation I left with them. I watched their 15-min video (excellent distillation of the start and end of the war), inspected their museum display (also excellent), and decided that driving around the area, which now—of course—looks different to when the combat occurred here, was not worth it in the rain.

    I wanted to get into the city of Newport News prior to dusk, so, as the heavy rain continued, I departed for the famous I-95. When I could see around me in clear weather, I enjoyed observing the household architectural differences to those in Australia and NZ. So many neat homes sitting on manicured lawns, without fence or hedge enclosures and often minimal gardens. I was also impressed by the sheer number of churches; I think predominantly Baptist. They’re EVERYWHERE… and most are modern-looking buildings and look as if they’re built to accommodate large congregations. Is this what the ‘bible-belt’ we hear of looks like?

    The rain came and went as I drove north to Emporia, but the GPS estimate of my arrival time just after 6:00 pm was accurate as I emerged suddenly—with some surprise—from the surrounding verdant roadside foliage onto the 4.6-mile Monitor-Merrimac Memorial Bridge and Tunnel. Why Ms GPS brought me in this way and not via US-17 and the James River Bridge (since I was headed for a destination near the town centre), I do not know and will have to interrogate her later. But I was almost ‘there’, and it was with a sense of relief that I looked down at the water of Hampton Roads, surging ocean-bound on an ebb tide with about the same rate of flow as my hometown Clutha River.

    How did Newport News get its strange name? Wikipedia states that the original area near the mouth of the James River was first referred to as Newportes Newes as early as 1621. The source of the name Newport News is not known with certainty, though it is the oldest English city name in the Americas. Several versions are recorded, and it is the subject of popular local speculation.

    I have been asked to make contact with a local museum curator, and—having established in Savannah a newfound respect for such creative professionals—I do so. The lady is rushed off her feet with her work and the challenges of getting a daughter off to college (‘university’, to us), but she makes time for us to meet over a drink at a craft brewery not too far from my hotel. We have a wonderful chat. She’s curious as to how and why I’m in Newport News and I’m curious about everything to do with her 😁. She is also unashamedly (and emotionally) fearful about what the USA is becoming under President Trump. She's the first American I've had a meaningful conversation with where we've openly addressed this question. Today Trump has sent troops into Washington D.C. and has plans to extend this activity to other cities. I think a lot of Americans must be holding their breath.

    Tomorrow, I’ll give the Mariner’s Museum a serious once-over. Newport News has a lot of Civil War history, and—my curator friend informs me—even more Revolutionary War history. The city sits on the Virginia Peninsula (sometimes called the Lower Peninsula because it’s the southernmost of three major peninsulas in southeastern Virginia), bounded by the York River, James River, Hampton Roads, and Chesapeake Bay. Just look at the placenames; Yorktown… Williamsburg. Once again, I’m going to have to ‘skim through’ here if I’m to manage the next five days.
    Les mer

  • Aug 16: The Cradle of The Civil War 5

    16. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    "Almost Heaven, West Virginia
    Blue Ridge Mountain, Shenandoah River..."

    Well... I've strummed this tune and sang these words countless times since 1971 (not always while stone cold sober I might say, and not always in A Major (as stipulated by Mr Deutschendorf Jr). And the area scarcely touches West Virginia. But no matter; here I am, deep in it anyway.

    It should be an easy day today. I depart Waynesboro, where the outside temperature is already over 80. In short order, I'm through the South Entrance Station at Rockfish Gap, where the friendly man in the 'Ranger Smith' hat takes my $20, gives me some brochures and advice, and sends me on my way on Skyline Drive. There won't be too many photos today. I encourage anyone even remotely interested to Google 'Skyline Drive'.

    I wend and wind my way up into elevation and am soon able to see the views. I'm cautious though, as there's more than 80 Overlook sites, all with excellent, paved, highway pull-offs, and I do not intend to pull into all of them. After all, the views are always the same, aren't they? Only different. The speed limit is 35 mph, but not all motorists adhere to that. I mostly do. The road is beautifully paved and the curves canted. 90% of the 105 miles is curves, and I love it! The Appalachian Trail is nearby, and criss-crosses the highway frequently. There are cyclists on the road, no doubt building up their mountain climbing muscles for the next Tour de France.

    The highway climbs and descends as it traverses the crest (mostly) of the Blue Ridge. We are in the Shenandoah National Park and most of the views are to the west, down into the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. There's a lot about this drive that reminds me of the Dandenong Range near my hometown of Melbourne, Australia.

    I am mostly on the move and the only wildlife I encounter are some deer grazing on the roadside, who look up to see who's interrupting them, but don't move away as I drive past. There are quite a few cars and RVs (caravans) on the road and the main servicing and picnic/camping areas and RV parks look to be popular. The park has a lot of trails, as well as the main one I've already mentioned. About 500 miles, I believe.

    The temperature drops to around 77 deg at the 3,700-ft elevation where I do stop to check on the view. Although beautifully surfaced, the road is narrow, and I'm unnerved by the many Outlook pull-offs on my left that are on blind corners where--in order to get to them--you have to dart across the oncoming lane before someone comes flying around and collects you.

    It's an exhilarating and stimulating drive, and I enjoy every beautifully banked curve. I'm just a little sad when I descend at Front Range and look for the signs to Brunswick, the closest place to Harpers Ferry that I can find a Holiday Inn. Tomorrow, back to the Civil War.
    Les mer

  • Aug 14-15: The Cradle of The Civil War 4

    16. august, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    I revisited the incredible Mariner’s Museum on Friday morning, to ensure I’d done it justice (Warning: non-Civil War/tech interested people will have to scan through yet another maritime museum photo essay… sorry), and drove out of Newport News around 11:00 with a heavy heart as, once again, I knew I was going to miss out on seeing many historical Civil War sites as well as many of those critical to the earlier War of Independence. But to have done Newport News justice, I’d have needed a week here.

    I headed northwest on I-64 for Richmond, tuned into 96.3 WROV - The Rock Of Virginia, but—once again—was going to have to choose between stopping and spending time in museums and at various locations v reaching certain special locations AND covering the ground to at least view the general areas these armies moved through. So, Richmond was also placed on my ‘Next Time’ list, right below Newport News. Richmond has always fascinated me through having been the Confederate capital during the war and being so close to the Union capital, which was, of course, Washington D.C.

    So, I took to the network of freeways and tollways that enables truckers and people like me to circumvent Richmond, and headed west on US-360 for the villages of Amelia and Appomattox and to see what I could of the ‘Appomattox Campaign’.

    Amelia County was a central area for Virginia's enslaved population, highlighting the region's importance to the Confederate economy and social structure. Following the fall of Richmond and Petersburg after a 10-month siege by the Northerners, Amelia Court House was the chosen location for the Army of Northern Virginia (the Confederate army) to reunite and resupply. Amelia's location was strategic because it lay along Lee's intended line of retreat to the west and south, making it a critical point for consolidating his scattered forces. General Lee had ordered a supply train full of provisions to meet his troops at Farmville, near Amelia. This was a crucial step in his plan to retreat south and link up with other Confederate forces, however the train was raided by the Yankees (Union army) and never arrived.

    Farmville became a focal point during Lee's Retreat (a) due to its railroad and supply depots and its strategic location, (b) the critical High Bridge crossing the Appomattox River, (at the time one of the longest in the world and a crucial natural barrier in Lee's escape route), and (c) the desperate struggle for supplies and a chance to escape the closing Union net. Lee had hoped to secure much-needed provisions for his exhausted and hungry troops before continuing westward to join forces with General Johnston. Lee's failure to secure and destroy the bridge at Farmville significantly hampered his ability to prolong the fight and contributed to his eventual surrender just days later.

    Note that the words ‘Court House’ often figure in this era in the name of a Virginian town. Thus, both Amelia and Appomattox were officially at that time designated Amelia Court House and Appomattox Court House.

    March 29, 1865, is generally considered to have been the beginning of the Appomattox Campaign. On that date, Grant opened his spring offensive against Lee’s army by ordering Major General Philip Sheridan’s cavalry (freshly returned from the Shenandoah Valley) and Major General G. K. Warren’s 5th Corps to attempt to turn Lee’s right flank at the Battle of Lewis’s Farm. Two days later the action resumed at the Battle of White Oak Road and the Battle of Dinwiddie Court House as Lee attempted to shore up his right wing to halt the federal flanking manoeuver. On April 1, Sheridan and Warren continued their offensive, with another major victory over Confederate forces at the Battle of Five Forks. Losing that strategic crossroads further threatened Lee’s already limited supply lines.

    Encouraged by these Union victories, Grant ordered a general assault on Confederate entrenchments, and Lee realised he could no longer hold the Yankees back. He advised Confederate President Jefferson Davis to prepare to leave Richmond. As Lee abandoned his defenses around Richmond, three minor engagements took place during the next three days – one of them at Amelia Springs.

    Two days later, another cavalry engagement erupted north of Amelia Springs. Three brigades of Confederate cavalry counterattacked Union cavalry about three miles north of Amelia Springs. One of the Union cavalry brigades was returning from a raid on the Confederates’ supply train near Painesville, just to the north. The two cavalry forces fought a running battle through Amelia Springs almost to Jetersville (which I also drove through), six miles southwest of Amelia Court House, where Lee planned to concentrate his army. The initial phase of the battle was inconclusive until Union reinforcements arrived, prompting the Confederates to withdraw back to Amelia Springs. Later that night and during the morning of April 6, Union forces fought another minor and inconclusive battle against the Confederate rearguard. The Battle of Amelia Springs accomplished little other than to force Lee’s army to detour around Jetersville on its journey to Amelia Court House.

    After realising he wasn’t going to be able to provision his men at Farmville, General Lee moved to cross the Appomattox River at High Bridge, 4.5 miles north, and continue his westward retreat. On April 6, 1865, just three days before the surrender at Appomattox Court House, nearly a quarter of Lee’s army—more than 7,700 men—were killed, wounded or captured at the battle of Saylor’s Creek (also known as Sailor’s Creek). Then, on April 7, they fought to destroy the bridge to stop Union forces from following them. Union troops, however, managed to save the bridge and crossed the river, continuing their relentless pursuit of Lee. This was a critical failure for the Confederates and sealed their fate in Virginia.

    I could not stop to drive into High Bridge to inspect the area. I’ve added a borrowed image from the interweb to show what the bridge was like when built in 1854 by the Southside Railroad. It was over 2,400 ft long, double-decked (a wagon roadway below), stood 125 feet above the Appomattox River, and rested on 21 hollow brick pillars. If I’d gone in there, I’d have seen a steel structure erected in 1914 adjacent to the pillars of the original and now part of a Rail Trail.

    Anyway, after skirting Richmond, I got off the freeway in time to drive through and around the small town of Amelia and knew I was on the right track as soon as I saw the first roadside marker denoting “Lee’s Retreat”. This label refers generally to the Confederate Army's withdrawal from Gettysburg in July 1863. Following his defeat there, General Lee recognised the need to withdraw his army from Pennsylvania and embarked upon the subsequent southward retreat back through Maryland into Virginia, described above. The route march was marked by difficult conditions, including heavy rain and the need to transport a large number of wounded soldiers. These logistical challenges can scarcely be imagined. Can you imagine the number of horses, wagons, and the sheer amount of feed needed to transport these casualties? This retreat would conclude with the surrender of the Army of Northern Virginia to General Ulysses S. Grant at Appomattox Court House on April 9, 1865. Much of Lee’s route can be followed to Appomattox.

    The original village of Appomattox Court House (which later burnt down) has been reconstructed on the exact location. The Court House is now an excellent Visitor Centre and museum with interpretive displays and a theatre with regular screenings of an explanatory video. It is quite an emotional experience to wander around that village and enter the private household of Wilmer McLean that was ‘borrowed’ that day to facilitate the meeting between the two generals and the signing of the surrender documents. President Lincoln had ordered that the Confederate troops were not to be humiliated and some of the terms of surrender that General Grant presented to General Lee included that the Confederate troops would hand in their weapons (but that officers and others who had arms they owned—which many did—could retain them), that all troops would be paroled to return to their homes and not imprisoned, that food and medical aid would be made available immediately, and—after a request from Lee—that officers and troops who owned horses and mules could keep them. The 4-year War Between the States was over; the nation (largely) rejoiced.

    Two days later an assassin shot President Lincoln in the head.

    I looked around some of the surrounding areas that had seen combat and had been kept in much the same floral condition as existed at the time, so it was easy to imagine the troop movements over the open fields and through the wooded portions and the skirmishes that developed.

    I finally had to leave, and headed north on US-29, bypassing Lynchburg (and more Civil War learning), and onto US-60 up onto the Blue Ridge. This enabled me to access a short, middle portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway for a 1½-hr winding road trip of about 65 miles to Waynesboro, my destination for the evening. The Blue Ridge Parkway is a scenic road that connects—if you’re travelling south-to-north—the Great Smoky Mountains National Park down in Tennessee to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia.

    I caught enticing glimpses of many terrific views but only stopped to investigate one. I figured I would see many more tomorrow when I traversed the full length of the northern portion of the parkway through the Shenandoah National Park, a 105-mile twisting jaunt along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, called the Skyline Drive. In my view, a visitor could not possibly come to these parts without doing these two drives (and in the Fall would be even better).

    Having left Appomattox, my one stop on the Blue Ridge Parkway might easily have been my last. I stopped to view a lookout and as I trudged along a grass trail leading up to it, I wondered what the hissy rattle was that I could hear. I looked down and saw what I now think was a timber rattlesnake, one of two venomous species in Shenandoah National Park. I expleted appropriately, jumped about 3 feet in the air and 6 feet laterally, and took a photo of the beast for Google Images. It was a very relieved explorer who drove down off the Blue Ridge that evening and into Waynesboro.
    Les mer

  • Aug 17: The Cradle of The Civil War 6

    17. august, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today is serious. I'm going to visit the scene of the bloodiest combat of the entire American Civil War - Antietam. I've actually been driving backwards through this Civil War saga. If I'd been able, I'd have started in Washington D.C., not ended there as I shall in a couple of days. I'd have recounted how the Confederate army set out to invade the north and how their the subsequent carnage at Antietam resulted in a retreat back to Virginia. And I'd have recounted Lee's second foray into the north and how the loss at Gettysburg precipitated another withdrawal that culminated in the surrender that I portrayed also in Civil War 4.

    The drive from Brunswick to Sharpsburg and the Antietam Battleground, through rolling, forested countryside with corn and soybeans thick in the fields is as good a reason as any to be in this area. Frederick County is also known for various specialty crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, sweet corn, tomatoes, melons, squash, and peas, and for dairying (this county apparently leads the state in milk production).

    I’m pleased if there are people following my blog who are interested in or even entertained by the content. But the blog is also a personal record for me. I’ve always had an abiding interest in the story of the development of the American republic, especially the 4-year Civil War, and these past couple of weeks have been a wonderful opportunity for me to gain a more practical appreciation of how some of the major episodes in the great ‘Civil War story’ happened and especially ‘what’ happened. So, this history lesson is MY record, created to cement MY understanding. If you enjoy it too, then that’s a bonus for me. For references to the North, you may see me use the terms, ‘Union’, ‘US (United States)’, or Federal. For the South I mostly use ‘Confederate’, ‘Confederacy’, and sometimes ‘Secessionist(s)’.

    Jamestown, established on May 14, 1607, on the northeast bank of the James River, about 2½ miles southwest of present-day Williamsburg, VA, was the first permanent English settlement in North America, and became the Colony of Virginia. In 1619 an English sea-captain sold African captives to the colony of Jamestown in exchange for supplies.

    Over the next 246 years, the economy of the United States relied on the oppression and unpaid labour of African Americans, but this had never sat comfortably with all colonists and later, many Unionists. As the US expanded during the first half of the 1800s, designated ‘territories’ were being admitted to the nascent Union as states, and tensions mounted. Would the new states continue with slavery or would they outlaw it? Pro- and anti-slavery radicals stoked the fires of conflict. It should be acknowledged that whereas the North had developed--thanks in large part to immigration from Europe--to become an industrial manufacturing powerhouse with employment opportunities for (almost) all, this was not the case in the South. The southern states had developed as an agrarian economy--with large plantations growing crops such as indigo, rice, and cotton--that needed a large manual employment effort which was necessarily satisfied by the introduction of forced labour. This economy had also created a (very) wealthy elite business ownership cadre that, naturally, desired to maintain this status.

    In 1859, the abolitionist John Brown failed in his plan to arm enslaved African Americans with weapons stolen from the U.S. armoury in the strategic town of Harpers Ferry, VA. Before they could fulfil their goals, Brown and his group were captured at Harpers Ferry by U.S. Marines under the command of one Colonel Robert E. Lee after barricading themselves in the armoury’s engine house. Lee's U.S. Marines (this was prior to secession and the Civil War) stormed the building, ending the raid and taking Brown and his group captive. Brown was the first of them to be tried and executed. Robert E Lee would later return to Harpers Ferry, but this time, not as the leader of U.S. forces. The debate over slavery is its own story and would ultimately split the nation in two.

    Jumping ahead in this many-faceted history, some of the Southern states had seceded from the Union, had established themselves as a ‘Confederacy’, and the Civil War was well under way. In 1861, President Lincoln had appointed General George McClellan as commander of the Military Division of the Potomac, the main Union force responsible for the defence of Washington. Early in his career, McClellan had been opposed to federal interference with slavery, his view being that since slavery was an institution recognised in the Constitution, it (slavery) was entitled to federal protection wherever it existed (note: Lincoln having also held the same public position until August 1862) and he might well have been inveigled by the south to join the Confederacy. Trouble was, he also opposed the concept of secession. Like many Northers he saw the growing nation as having to be totally united as one country in order to be valid and viable.

    It is generally acknowledged among Civil War historians—based on his actions and known strategic thinking—that General George McClellan had three key objectives that influenced his campaigns against Lee. They being;
    1. To capture the Confederate capital, Richmond
    2. To defeat or destroy the Confederate Army of Northern Virginia
    3. To ensure that Washington D.C. was protected

    These objectives, though, were heavily influenced and mitigated somewhat by his inherent caution and a tendency to overestimate Confederate strength. This latter predisposition was considered to have been strongly influenced by the exaggerated enemy strength estimates made by McClellan’s secret service chief, detective Allan Pinkerton. The resultant extreme caution displayed by McClellan is said to have sapped the initiative of McClellan's army and dismayed the government. So, McClellan was never a favourite of Lincoln, but he was a field commander much admired by his troops, and propitious circumstances saw him eventually promoted to general-in-chief of all the Union armies. A complex character, whose terrific strength of purpose had seen him experience both success and failure in his pre-Civil War military career, McClellan was one of a cadre of military officers of the time who fancied posing for photographers with the pretentious Napoleonic ‘hand-in-the-tunic’ pose. McClellan was not without a healthy ego.

    Following a string of victories in the spring and summer of 1862, Confederate General Robert E. Lee decided it was time to carry the war north. In early September, he entered Maryland with 50,000 soldiers, hoping to achieve a decisive victory and end the war. Union forces commanded by General McClellan marched from Washington, D.C. and caught up with Lee's scattered troops on September 14 at the Battle of South Mountain, resulting in a Union victory.

    However, McClellan was unable to save the Union garrison at Harpers Ferry that surrendered to Lee's forces on September 15, and the Union victory at South Mountain followed by this Confederate victory at Harpers Ferry led both armies to converge on the town of Sharpsburg, MD, through which ran a stream called Antietam Creek (from a word in the Algonquian language likely meaning "swift water" or "swift-flowing stream"). Here is a précis of the events leading up to the bloody Battle of Antietam;

    THE MARYLAND CAMPAIGN - 1862
    30 August:
    The Confederate forces were victorious at the 2nd Battle of Manassas in northern Virginia and General Lee quickly devised a campaign to take the war into the North. On September 4, Lee and his nearly 50,000-strong Army of Northern Virginia commenced to cross the Potomac River into Maryland. The events of the next 13 days would lead to an epic clash of two great armies at Antietam.

    7 September
    The Confederate Army of Northern Virginia concentrated its forces in Frederick, MD. General George McClellan, commanding the Union Army of the Potomac, moved out of Washington, D.C. to engage them (remember his objective No. 3 above). Two days later, Lee divided his army to capture the Union garrison at Harpers Ferry. This was a risky gamble that Lee won.

    14 September
    The Army of the Potomac attacked the Confederates on South Mountain (a forested ridge north of Brunswick and Harpers Ferry), driving them from all three passes. More than 5,000 soldiers were killed, wounded, or went missing on the mountain.

    15 September
    Twelve thousand Union soldiers at Harpers Ferry surrendered to Confederate Major General Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson. Lee therefore moved to concentrate his forces on Antietam Creek near Sharpsburg, MD.

    17 September
    The battle's first shots were fired in the early morning fog. Heavy fighting resulted in 16,000 casualties by I:00 pm. On the south end of the battlefield, Union soldiers captured a key bridge over Antietam Creek, only to be turned back by the last Confederate soldiers to arrive from Harpers Ferry as the sun set. Nearly 100,000 troops were engaged on this battlefield. After 12 hours of fighting, th ere were approximately 23,000 casualties. Farmer David Miller's cornfield witnessed some of the battle's bloodiest fighting over a span of just three hours starting at dawn. Regiments on both sides suffered great losses. Over 60 percent of Confederate General Harry T. Hays' Louisiana Brigade became casualties in just 30 minutes of action. Union forces claimed victory despite heavy losses. I could describe how the prevailing manner of combat in the field during this era was conducted, but that isn't a necessary subject for this blog.

    [Note: "Casualty" does not necessarily equal "dead". Casualties include three categories: dead, wounded, and missing or captured. In general terms, casualties of Civil War battles included 20 percent dead and 80 percent wounded. About one out of seven wounded soldiers died from his wounds. Over two-thirds of the 622,000 men who gave their lives in the Civil War died from disease, not from battle. Because of the catastrophic nature of the Battle of Antietam, exact casualty numbers were impossible to compile.]

    18 September
    Beaten at Antietam, Lee began his retreat back to Virginia.

    19-20 September
    Union forces pursued and attacked Lee's army retreating across the Potomac River into Virginia. The Confederates turned at Shepherdstown and counterattacked the following day, halting the Union pursuit. This battle was the final engagement of Lee's unfortunate 1st Maryland Campaign.

    The Battle of Antietam, followed by Lee's withdrawal to Virginia, was the decisive moment Abraham Lincoln had been waiting for. It also satisfied General McClelland's 2nd goal (see my previous reference above). Five days after the battle, on 22 September, the President issued the preliminary Emancipation Proclamation declaring freedom for enslaved people in areas under rebellion if the Confederacy did not rejoin the United States by the end of the year. The preliminary Emancipation Proclamation gave the Confederate states 100 days to peaceably return to the United States or face a direct assault on the institution of slavery, which would undermine the southern economy and its society. When the South failed to return by January 1, 1863, the Emancipation Proclamation went into effect, declaring “free all enslaved people within any State or designated part of a State, the people whereof shall then be in rebellion against the United States." From the moment that the Emancipation Proclamation was officially issued, the war for Union was inseparable from the war to end human bondage.

    Thus, the war evolved from a struggle to preserve the Union into a fight to end slavery and reunite the country. The Proclamation also allowed thousands of African Americans to enlist in the US Army and Navy and fight for their own freedom. Slavery died along with the Confederacy in 1865, but the fight for equality had only just begun.

    ABOUT THE BATTLE OF ANTIETAM - some notes
    Canister ammunition was lethal at close range, as the can tore apart when fired and the deadly iron balls blasted enemy troops like a giant shotgun shell. Cannon fired approximately 50,000 rounds of artillery during the battle - close to 3,000 rounds per hour. Spherical ammunition fired from these weapons devastated its targets. Some shot was solid, while some carried iron balls and gunpowder inside their metal shells. The addition of rifled grooves inside muskets gave bullets a spin, increasing their range and accuracy. Both Confederate and U.S. forces used this ammunition during the Civil War.

    "There was a sense of impending doom. We knew--everyone knew--that two great armies of 80,000 men were lying there face to face, only waiting for dawn to begin the battle. It gave a terrible sense of oppression."
    Nurse CLARA BARTON (who later established the American red Cross Society), described the night before the Battle of Antietam.

    “To those who have not been witnesses of a great battle like this, where more than a hundred thousand men ... are engaged in the work of slaughtering each other, it is impossible by the power of words to convey an adequate idea of its terrible sublimity.”
    JOHN G. WALKER, Major General, CSA, Longstreet's Command

    “The slaughter was more awful than anything I ever read of... there is no place which you can stand and not see the field black with dead bodies as far as the eye can reach.”
    HENRY ROPES, Lieutenant, 20th Massachusetts Infantry, letter to his father, September 20, 1862

    “If slavery is not broken, the war will last long, supported and fed by it - and the loss of life on both sides will be frightful.”
    HUGH B. EWING, Colonel, 30th Ohio Infantry, August 10, 1862

    Drummers, buglers, and fifers all played on the battlefields of the Civil War. Drummers marched to the right of a marching column and had to learn 38 different beats - 14 for general use and 24 for marching pace.

    “The courage and heroism of Negro citizens [today] is only a further effort to affirm that democratic heritage so painfully won upon the grassy battlefields of Antietam, Lookout Mountain, and Gettysburg.”
    MARTIN LUTHER KING JR., writing to President John F. Kennedy, May 17, 1962

    The 13th Amendment to the United States Constitution freed millions of African Americans from slavery at the end of 1865. But freedom is not the same thing as equality. The Constitution's 14th and 15th Amendments provided equal protection under federal law and ensured Black voting rights. Following the end of Reconstruction, White southerners instituted campaigns of local, terror (think of the Ku Klux Klan) and passed "Jim Crow" laws that restricted the civil rights of Black Americans and created a segregated society. Even so, African Americans have continued to demand their rights as citizens and fight for equal treatment.

    The losses at Antietam were enormous. Deceased soldiers lay across a five-mile stretch of cornfields, woods, and roads. Burial crews dug hasty graves - burying some soldiers alone, and others in mass trenches. The Roulette family had over 700 soldiers buried on their farm. Wild pigs soon began rooting through the shallow graves and heavy rainfall also washed away the earthen cover. Hundreds of dead horses were dragged into piles and burnt... the fires lasting for weeks. Some of the equine bone remains were even repurposed! (look this up yourself). As the national media reported on the devastation at Antietam, loved ones wrote letters seeking to find out if soldiers they knew had been injured, gone missing, or lived to fight another day.

    PRESERVING THE BATTLEFIELD
    “When we look on yon battlefield, I think of the brave men who fell in the fierce struggle of battle, and who sleep silent in their graves.”
    PRESIDENT ANDREW JOHNSON, dedicating Antietam National Cemetery, September 17, 1867

    Antietam National Cemetery was the first land preserved at the battlefield and reflected how divided the nation was. The Maryland legislation that created the cemetery allowed for the burial of US and Confederate soldier remains. Lasting bitterness over the conflict, combined with the devastated South's inability to raise funds, resulted in a decision to bury only Federal soldiers there. Cemeteries in Frederick, Hagerstown, and Shepherdstown hold Confederate soldier remains. In addition to Civil War dead, soldiers and veterans who fought in later wars are also buried there. These include African American soldiers from World Wars I and II, some of whom were laid to rest in segregated areas of the cemetery. I saw these groups of ‘segregated’ graves at Antietam.

    On August 30, 1890, Congress set aside funding for the United States War Department to "preserve" and "mark" the lines of battle at Antietam. The US War Department managed this landscape until August 10, 1933, when it transferred the site to the Department of the Interior. Together, these federal organisations transformed the battlefield by adding roads, commemorative tablets, monuments, an observation tower, and a superb visitor centre. Today, the National Park Service continues to maintain this site to preserve the historic battlefield and its legacy.

    There are almost 100 monuments at Antietam National Battlefield. Built primarily by Northern states and veterans in the late 1800s and early 1900s to commemorate their sacrifices here, the monuments are often located exactly where the troops fought during the battle. The site's handful of Confederate monuments were erected in the 20th century, mainly during the Civil War Centennial in the 1960’s.

    “There are no better teachers for those who come after us than the silent monuments on the battlefields.”
    WELLS SPONABLE [Spanneknabel], Major, dedicating the 34th New York Monument, 1902

    I drove around the extensive battlefield, with explanations of the specific sites of combat conveyed via a bluetooth CarPlay connection. It was a solemn personal tour.

    AFTERMATH OF THE BATTLE
    For the civilians living in this area, the traumatic events at Antietam lasted long after the fighting ended. They had to overcome financial and material losses, disruptions to their livelihoods, and fear of the ongoing war. Bodies and debris covered the landscape. Farmers ploughed up shells and bullets. Houses and barns took damage and bore battle scars.

    “Every building that is suitable is filled with wounded. The farms between here and there are completely desolated - fences and trees destroyed and everything moveable and of value stolen.
    DR. WILLIAM CHILD, September 30, 1862

    THE COMPOSITION OF A CIVIL WAR ARMY
    Regiment:
    Colonel + 800 soldiers

    Brigade:
    Brigadier General + 2,600 soldiers
    There were 2-5 regiments in a brigade

    Division:
    Major General + 8,000 soldiers
    There were 2-4 x brigades in a division

    Corp:
    Major General + 26,000 soldiers
    There were 2-3 x divisions in a corp

    Army:
    Major General + 80,000 soldiers

    From www.battlefields.org;
    Les mer

  • Aug 18: The Cradle of The Civil War 7

    18. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Harpers Ferry, in Jefferson County, WV, is a scenic and historically vital town. The U.S. National Park Service website has—I think—by far the best chronological description of the part played by Harpers Ferry in the American Civil War. (https://www.nps.gov/hafe/learn/historyculture/h…)

    Harpers Ferry emerged in 1859 onto the national stage when the radical abolitionist John Brown and a small band of followers raided the U.S. armoury in an unsuccessful attempt to ignite a slave insurrection.

    Before the war, 3,000 people lived and worked in the prosperous industrial town of Harpers Ferry. Benefitting from abundant natural resources and situated at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, this area was advertised as “one of the best situations in the United States for factories.” The town’s largest source of industry, the United States Armory, had over 20 factory buildings and 400 employees. The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad and (its industrial competition) the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal also provided a steady flow of people and commerce throughout the town. These assets made the town strategically important to both sides during the war.

    With the federal armoury that had been established there and its crucial location at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, Harpers Ferry, was a vital transportation and strategic point for both armies. The Battle of Harpers Ferry, fought from September 12-15, 1862, was a significant Civil War engagement in which Confederate General Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson led a successful assault, resulting in the largest surrender of U.S. troops during the war.

    For the invasion of Maryland, Confederate General Robert E. Lee had divided his army (a big risk) to capture Harpers Ferry and secure his supply lines back to Virginia. Union Colonel Dixon S. Miles maintained his main forces in and around Harpers Ferry, but failing to secure the commanding heights surrounding the town. Jackson's forces established themselves on the adjacent (now Bolivar) heights and effectively surrounded the Union garrison. The Confederate force bombarded the hapless Yankees and launched an infantry attack. After a council of war, the Union forces surrendered, with the final arrangements being made by Brigadier General Julius White after Colonel Miles was mortally wounded by a Confederate shell. The battle resulted in the capture of over 12,700 Union troops and 13,000 arms, a record for the largest surrender of U.S. forces in the war. This victory secured Lee's supply lines during the Maryland Campaign and allowed him to continue his northern incursion.
    Les mer

  • Aug 19: The Cradle of The Civil War 8

    19. august, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    I drove to Martinsburg, VA, and spent an hour inspecting the railroad precinct that had been burnt following the Battle of Sharpsburg, when Confederate General Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson ordered the destruction of the roundhouse and shops in October 1862 to prevent the Baltimore and Ohio (B&O) Railroad facilities from being used by the Union army. In this campaign against the B&O railroad, they also destroyed multiple bridges, tore up miles of track, and captured dozens of locomotives and hundreds of cars. Gen. Jackson's forces had also conducted a major raid on the B&O railroad in the Martinsburg area in 1861, in which they captured and removed a large amount of rollingstock.

    From Martinsburg, it was onwards to Gettysburg, as I had time to spare. The Gettysburg Visitor Centre is yet another of the magnificent Civil War visitor centres throughout the United States that serve as educational hubs and gateways to historic battlefields and other sites. Once visited, you can see how they provide a crucial layer of context, interpretation, and a display of historical artifacts that enrich and prepare you for your experiences on the preserved grounds. Run by the National Park Service, state park systems (and sometimes private foundations), these centres vary in size and focus but often share common features. I think the Gettysburg centre was the largest that I attended.

    At the Gettysburg Visitor Center, you can see Civil War exhibits in the Gettysburg Museum, an excellent 22-min film that is narrated by Morgan Freeman (providing a comprehensive overview of the Civil War and the Battle of Gettysburg), and the priceless, fully restored 360-degree Gettysburg Cyclorama painting that immerses you in the chaos of Pickett's Charge. You can also visit the preserved home and farm of President Dwight D. Eisenhower, which is located near the battlefield.

    After a superb tour of the Gettysburg Battleground (I paid a guide to drive my Jeep around a 25-mile tour, during which he and I discussed the battle and he answered my many questions regarding the combatant's military strategy and the technical prosecution of those three momentous and bloody days). Here's some detail about that event and some background as well. (Scroll bar to the right if you're not interested)

    Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, became a famous town. Its name originates from Samuel Gettys, an early Irish immigrant who settled in the area and established a tavern. His son, James, is credited with founding the village in 1786—laying out the town and dividing his father's land into saleable lots—and initially naming it Gettystown. The town was incorporated as Gettysburg in 1806.

    At the intersection of ten major roads, it was an attractive location for travelers and settlers, especially merchants. Although known primarily for its proximity to the now-famous battlefield, the borough of 7,620 residents is also known for its institutions of higher learning. The town is 52 miles from Baltimore, MD, 90 miles from Washington, D.C., and 102 miles from Philadelphia, PA.

    Confederate General Robert E. Lee made two attempts to invade the North during the Civil War. These were the Maryland Campaign of 1862 (culminating in the bloody Battle of Antietam, previously described in this blog) and the Gettysburg Campaign of the following year. As recounted in my blog, the Maryland Campaign was unsuccessful—the Union army claiming victory—while the Gettysburg Campaign ended with a major Confederate defeat that directly precipitated the Confederate surrender two years later.

    How the Battle of Gettysburg happened:
    Buoyed by his success at Chancellorsville, VA, in May 1863, Lee led his army north through the Shenandoah Valley to begin his second invasion of the North - the Gettysburg Campaign. Covering 16 miles per day, and with his army in high spirits, Lee intended to shift the focus of the summer campaign from war-ravaged northern Virginia and hoped to influence Northern politicians to give up their prosecution of the war by penetrating as far as Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, or even Philadelphia. He hoped also, to relieve the pressure the Union was apply to the Confederate garrison at Vicksburg, on the Mississippi River (this is a whole separate action occurring in another part of the country and is worth looking at for its own part in the Civil War story). Since fighting battles inevitably ends up with the territory being fought upon being ravaged and often laid waste, it also made sense for Lee to try and shift any fighting off Virginian territory and onto that of the North.

    So, in June of 1863, Lee commenced to shift his army northward from Fredericksburg, VA. Following the death at Chancellorsville of Gen. "Stonewall" Jackson (who was shot accidentally by his own troops and died eight days later from pneumonia, which developed after his left arm was amputated due to the wounds), Lee reorganized his two large corps into three new corps, commanded by Lt. Generals James Longstreet (First Corps), Richard S. Ewell (Second), and Ambrose (A.P.) Hill (Third); both Ewell and Hill, who had formerly reported to “Stonewall” Jackson as division commanders, were new to this level of responsibility. The Cavalry Division remained under the command of Maj. Gen. James Stuart (universally known as ‘Jeb’, after his initials J.E.B.).

    Prodded by President Lincoln, Maj. Gen. Joseph Hooker moved the Army of the Potomac (consisting of seven infantry corps, a cavalry corps, and an Artillery Reserve, collectively numbering over 100,000 men) in pursuit but was relieved of command just three days before the battle and replaced by Maj. Gen. George Meade (Note: in a dispute around how he’d arranged his forces for the defence of the Harpers Ferry garrison—which was defeated and imprisoned by the Confederates—Hooker offered his resignation, and Lincoln and General-in-Chief Henry W. Halleck, who were looking for an excuse to get rid of him, immediately accepted). Hooker was replaced early on the morning of June 28 with Maj. Gen. George Gordon Meade, at the time commanding V Corps.

    The Confederates crossed the Potomac River and entered Maryland in the latter part of June, 1863. Hooker's Union army pursued, remaining between the U.S. capital and Lee's army.

    The southern army was under strict orders from Lee to minimise any negative impacts on the civilian population. Food, horses, and other supplies were generally not seized outright, although quartermasters reimbursing Northern farmers and merchants with Confederate money were not well received. Various towns, most notably York, Pennsylvania, were required to pay indemnities in lieu of supplies, under threat of destruction. During the invasion, the Confederates seized some 40 northern African Americans. A few of them were fugitive slaves, but most were freemen; all were sent south into slavery under guard.

    Having learned that the Union army had crossed the Potomac River, Lee ordered a concentration of his forces around Cashtown, located eight miles (13 km) west of Gettysburg. One of Hill's brigades (North Carolinians under Brig. Gen. J. Johnston Pettigrew), ventured toward Gettysburg, ostensibly to search for supplies—especially shoes. Approaching Gettysburg, Pettigrew's troops noticed Union cavalry arriving south of town, and Pettigrew returned to Cashtown without engaging them. When Pettigrew told his superiors what he’d seen, neither general believed him, suspecting that he’d seen some Pennsylvania militia. Despite General Lee's order to avoid a general engagement until his entire army was concentrated, Hill decided to reconnoiter in force the following morning to confirm the size and strength of the enemy force in his front. Around 5 a.m. on Wednesday, July 1, two brigades of Heth's division advanced to Gettysburg.

    So, elements of the two armies initially collided near Gettysburg on July 1, Lee’s objective being to engage the Union army and destroy it. That first day at Gettysburg, more significant than simply a prelude to the bloody second and third days, ranks as the 23rd biggest battle of the war by number of troops engaged. About one quarter of Meade's army (22,000 men) and one third of Lee's army (27,000) were engaged.

    Hastily developed Union lines were overrun, sending the defenders retreating through the town to hills just to the south. In the late afternoon of the second day of battle, Lee launched a heavy assault but all across the battlefield, despite significant losses, the Union defenders held their lines. On the third day of battle, the main event was a dramatic infantry assault by 12,500 Confederate troops, known as Pickett's Charge. This was repulsed by Union rifle and artillery fire, at great loss to the Confederate army, and Lee would be forced to lead his army on a torturous retreat back to Virginia.

    "A great basin lay before us full of smoke and fire, and literally swarming with riderless horses and fighting, fleeing, and pursuing men."
    1st Lt. Porter Farley, USA, 140th New York Volunteers.

    For these three days in July of 1863, a costly battle raged between the Union and Confederate armies in and around the borough, with over 51,000 casualties, the largest number of the entire war. Although the Civil War continued for another two years following the Battle at Gettysburg (see my previous “Cradle of The Civil War”, especially on Lee’s retreat and the Battle of Appomattox), this clash is universally viewed as the turning point of the war.

    On November 19, President Lincoln would attend a dedication ceremony for the Gettysburg National Cemetery and use the occasion to honour the fallen Union soldiers and redefine the purpose of the war in his historic Gettysburg Address.

    These engagements were part of a larger effort by Sheridan to gain control of the Shenandoah Valley, prevent further Confederate incursions into Union territory, and destroy its resources.

    Some background:
    The leading military players in this great saga of the American Civil War were almost all complex and sometimes many-faceted characters. By way of explanation, and to illustrate why this era fascinates me, consider Union General Philip Sheridan:

    Philip Henry Sheridan was once hilariously described by Abraham Lincoln as, “A brown, chunky little chap, with a long body, short legs, not enough neck to hang him, and such long arms that if his ankles itch he can scratch them without stooping.” Still, “Little Phil” rose to tremendous power and fame before his untimely death of a heart attack at age 57. He is most famous for his destruction of the Shenandoah Valley in 1864, called “The Burning” by its residents. He was also the subject of an extremely popular poem entitled “Sheridan’s Ride”, in which he (and his famous horse, Rienzi) save the day by arriving just in time for the Battle of Cedar Creek.

    Sheridan rose very quickly in rank. In the fall of 1861, he was a staff officer for Maj. Gen. Henry Halleck and l later became quartermaster general in the Army of Southwest Missouri. With the help of influential friends, he was appointed Colonel of the 2nd Michigan Cavalry in May, 1862. His first battle, at Booneville, MS, impressed Brig. Gen. William Rosecrans so much that he was promoted to Brigadier General. After [the Battle of] Stones River he was promoted to Major General.

    Sheridan’s men were part of the forces that captured Missionary Ridge, near Chattanooga, in 1863. When Ulysses S. Grant was promoted to General-in-Chief of the Union armies, he made Sheridan the commander of the Army of the Potomac’s Cavalry Corps. This moved Sheridan from the Western Theater to the Eastern Theater of operations.

    At first, Sheridan’s Corps was used for reconnaissance. His men were sent on a strategic raiding mission toward Richmond in May 1864, then he fought with mixed success in Grant’s 1864 Overland Campaign.

    During the Civil War, Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley was a vital resource to the Confederacy. Not only did it serve as the Confederate “breadbasket”, it was an important transportation route. The region had witnessed two large-scale campaigns already when Grant decided to visit the Valley once again in 1864. He sent Philip Sheridan on a mission to make the Shenandoah Valley a “barren waste”.

    In September, Sheridan defeated Jubal Early’s smaller force at Third Winchester, and again at Fisher’s Hill [Confederate Lt. Gen. Jubal Early and Sheridan faced each other in engagements during August 1864 that included the Battle of Summit Point and the Battle of Smithfield Crossing. These engagements were part of the larger effort by Sheridan to gain control of the Shenandoah Valley, prevent further Confederate incursions into Union territory, and destroy its resources].

    Then Sheridan began “The Burning” – destroying barns, mills, railroads, factories – resources for which the Confederacy had a dire need. He made over 400 square miles of the Valley uninhabitable. “The Burning” foreshadowed William Tecumseh Sherman’s “March to the Sea”: another campaign to deny resources to the Confederacy as well as bring the war home to its civilians.

    In October, however, Gen. Jubal Early caught Sheridan off guard. Early launched a surprise attack at Cedar Creek on the 19th when Sheridan was ten miles away in Winchester, Virginia. Upon hearing the sound of artillery fire, Sheridan raced to rejoin his forces and arrived just in time to rally his troops. Early’s men, however, were suffering from hunger and began to loot the abandoned Union camps. The actions of Sheridan (and Maj. Gen. Horatio Wright) put a stop to the Union retreat and dealt a severe blow to Early’s army.

    For his actions at Cedar Creek, Sheridan was promoted to Major General in the regular army and received a letter of gratitude from President Abraham Lincoln. The general took great pleasure in Thomas Buchanan Read’s poem, “Sheridan’s Ride” – so much so that he renamed his horse “Winchester”. The Union victories in the Shenandoah Valley came just in time for Abraham Lincoln and helped the Republicans defeat Democratic candidate George B. McClellan in the election of 1864.

    During the spring of 1865, Sheridan pursued Lee’s army with dogged determination, and trapped Early’s army in March. In April, Gen. Lee was forced to evacuate Petersburg when Sheridan cut off his lines of support at Five Forks and, at Sayler’s Creek, he captured almost one quarter of Lee’s army. Finally at Appomattox, Lee was forced to surrender the Army of Northern Virginia [see my previous Footprint] when Sheridan’s forces blocked Lee’s escape route.

    At war’s end, Phil Sheridan was a hero to many Northerners. Gen. Grant held him in the highest esteem. Still, Sheridan was not without his faults. He had pushed Grant’s orders to the limit. He also removed Gettysburg hero Governor Warren from command, an action that was later ruled unwarranted and unjustified.

    During Reconstruction [the Reconstruction era—1861-1900—was the period after the Civil War that focused on integrating formerly enslaved African Americans into society and reintegrating former Confederate states into the Union. The period involved significant political, social, and economic changes, as well as violent opposition and ultimately, a retreat from efforts to secure Black equality] Sheridan was appointed to be the military governor of Texas and Louisiana (the Fifth Military District). Because of the severity of his administration there, President Andrew Johnson declared that Sheridan was a tyrant and had him removed.

    In 1867, though, Ulysses S. Grant assigned Sheridan to pacify the Great Plains, where warfare with Native Americans was wreaking havoc. In an effort to force the Plains people onto reservations, Sheridan used the same tactics he used in the Shenandoah Valley; he attacked several tribes in their winter quarters, and promoted the widespread slaughter of American bison, their primary source of food.

    In 1871, the General oversaw military relief efforts during the Great Chicago Fire. He became the Commanding General of the United States Army on November 1, 1883, and on June 1, 1888, he was promoted to General of the Army of the United States – the same rank achieved by Ulysses S. Grant and William Tecumseh Sherman.
    Sheridan is also largely responsible for the establishment of Yellowstone National Park – saving it from being sold to developers.

    Sheridan died In August 1888, after a series of massive heart attacks. He was buried at Arlington National Cemetery.

    I departed Gettysburg happy (and sad) for the drive to Washington D.C., to drop the car and to check into my hotel.
    Les mer

  • Aug 20-24: My epic journey continues 1

    20. august, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    I took the 0925 Acela train to Boston. I'd always desired to see it, and thought I'd catch Amtrak's "Lake Shore Limited" from there back to Chicago to continue my foray into Colorado. However, the section from Boston to Albany, NY, was not running due to some track work and was operating as an Amtrak coach. So, I went up to Boston, spent a day there, and returned to D.C. in order to head west. I couldn't get the bedroom I wanted on the "Lake Shore Limited" section out of New York City (that would normally amalgamate with the Boston section at Albany), hence returning to D.C. to go west on the "Floridian"

    Amtrak's "Acela" product is electrifying (pun intended). It runs from Washington D.C., through NYC (actually--via Penn Station--a fair way beneath it) and on to Boston in less than 6½ hrs. All of the 454-mile/731-km of the route is 'owned' by Amtrak and known as the Northeast Corridor. It is the busiest passenger rail line in the United States by ridership and service frequency. In numerous sections, the train easily attains and cruises at 150 mph (240 km/h).

    I took the Hop-on/Hop-off bus in Boston, walked around a bit, and learnt enough to know I'd like to return and spend a few days there. Then it was back to D.C. on "Acela" with a scheduled few hours to spend at Union Station before catching the "Floridian" for an overnight run back to Chicago.

    The scheduled 'few' hours stretched out to a few more, before the train--delayed down in Florida by heat restrictions that affect the rails--finally arrived, was serviced, and we were able to board. Still, it didn't get dark until after Martinsburg.

    But it was a catering disaster. The crew appeared to have NO idea and we in the 7:00 pm sitting for dinner sat at our table for almost 2 hrs before the food arrived. We even had to suggest to the (solitary) waiter that he might bring the bread rolls in the meantime and offer us some vino. When the food finally arrived, the portions were about 50% of what we normally got on the Amtrak diner table. I might find out what happened if Amtrak deign to respond to my email.

    So, an 8:38 am arrival into Chicago became something closer to midday. No wurries... the California Zephyr wasn't scheduled to depart until 2:00 pm. Departure was near enough to on time, and this time we 'headed' out of the terminal, not backwards. I was soon along to the Sightseer Lounge for a beverage and some scenery. The western suburbs of Chicago and the plains east of Naperville are not particularly scenic, but I was seated beside a bio-scientist so I learned a lot about the farming we saw. I learned that llinois is a major agricultural state, known primarily for its production of corn and soybeans (of which I saw plenty), ranking first and second in the U.S. respectively for these key crops. Other significant crops include wheat, hay, and sorghum, alongside a variety of specialty crops such as pumpkins, apples, peaches, and horseradish.

    I was in the diner, and unprepared as we suddenly entered onto the BNSF Railroad drawbridge over the Mississippi River at Burlington. Bugger! I had no camera to hand as we slid past the BNSF RR yard and commenced the climb out the valley and into Iowa.

    My sleep that night was fitful, as it seemed to me that I could hear the regulation 'long-long-short-long' locomotive horn signal for EVERY level crossing in Iowa, Nebraska, and eastern Colorado. There must be a level crossing every half mile in some places, as it sometimes seemed incessant.

    I awoke somewhere out on the Colorado prairie, took a shower (unlike the "Floridian", this was comfortably warm), dressed, and waddled off to the diner for a Signature Amtrak 3-egg omelette. We were only in the outer suburbs of Denver when I announced to my table-mates that I must take my leave and find a seat in the Sightseer Lounge while I could. Turned out the crowd didn't start arriving until we pulled out of Denver Union station quite some time later, onto Union Pacific's Moffat Subdivision.

    But what a thrill to watch those two GE diesels up front bite into the grade at a steady 30 mph. The train is scarcely out of the city before the climb into the front range of the Rockies commences. We wind around the famous Big Ten Curve and keep climbing. After many curves and many tunnels (there are 28 between Denver and the Moffat Tunnel) through many precipitous ridges, we cruise along several deep valleys and follow the South Boulder Creek for several scenic miles. Eventually, we run down another lengthy valley and the conductor announces the "Moffat Tunnel". All necks are craned and eyes are peeled as we pass a track maintenance depot and plunge into over 6 miles of darkness beneath Rollins Pass and the Continental Divide, during which we will attain an elevation of 9,239 ft. About 12 minutes later, we emerge into sunlight at the Winter Park Ski Resort village, and begin our long descent to my destination for today, Grand Junction, CO.

    Our run down to Grand Junction takes us alongside many miles of the upper reaches of the Colorado River. We see literally hundreds of kayakers, tubers, and white water rafters, all doing their particular thing on the piece of river that suits them. We also learn why locals have given this portion of the Colorado the nickname "Moon River". We stop for passengers at Glenwood Springs and Granby, before arriving at Grand Junction at 5:00 pm, 35 min late. I have a hotel very close to the station and also, for tomorrow, to an Enterprise Car Rental outlet.

    Grand Junction sits at an elevation of 4,583 ft. This beats the MacKinnon Pass on New Zealand's Milford Track, that Colette and I hiked over some years ago, at 3,786 ft and might explain why I have the very faintest feeling of nausea as I haul my bags two blocks to my hotel. Sitting on the train, I hadn't noticed.

    An interesting drive awaits, tomorrow!
    Les mer

  • My epic journey continues 2

    24. august, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    More photos. Captions to come..

  • Aug 25: Grand Jct, CO, to Durango

    25. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    A challenging drive coming up! I pick up my car, a Toyota Camry, and head out on Route 50 to Montrose, then R-550 down to Ouray, with 101.9 FM Moose Legends on the radio... country legends from the 70's 80's & 90's. It's a pleasant change to be able to see sweeping western vistas from the highway and not be hemmed in by roadside foliage and forests as is common back east.

    Well, if I thought Grand Junction was at elevation, I've got things to learn. At Montrose, I divert onto R-550 and head into the mountains. Ouray [YOU-ray], elev. 7,792 ft and nicknamed the 'Switzerland of America' manifests at the end of a valley along the Uncompahgre River [say "un-come-PAH-gray". It's a Ute Indian word]. I stop for coffee and a thing about the size of a vol-au-vent but filled with a chorizo filling. Ouray is charming... reminiscent of Arrowtown in New Zealand, but much larger.

    Leaving town you're instantly, and with no warning, on the Million Dollar Highway which will take me through Silverton and all the way to Durango. If you're a New Zealander, it's the Crown Range (including the zig-zags), the Kawarau Gorge, Nevis Bluff, and Devil's Staircase all rolled into one and about 100 times longer. And it's at elevation. I drive across Red Mountain Pass (11,018 ft), Molas Pass (10,900 ft), and Coal Bank Pass (10,640 ft). The name for the highway is uncertain, but people will say it includes the figurative value of the San Juan Mountain views, the per-mile cost of building the road in the 1920s, or that the construction fill dirt was rich in gold ore, worth a fortune. I'm happy with the views, even though I'm driving. Truckers need something called a Mountain Pass to drive this sinuous but beautifully-paved highway.

    I drop down a valley beside Mineral Creek and arrive in Silverton. Just to tempt and tease me, I spot an engine in steam on the turning wye, but I know I'll be back here in two days' time on that train, so I continue back up into the mountains and on to Durango. At one point, I round a curve and find myself in a queue to wait for an hour for roadworks to be completed, and the road to open. Taking a walk as we wait, I feel that faint nausea feeling again and a degree of breathlessness just from walking uphill along the road. I expect I'll acclimatise.

    I arrive in Durango during a thunderstorm and am relieved to get to my hotel, a short walk from the train station. But tomorrow is a 'down day' and I've got laundry and blogs to do, as well as have a look at the town.
    Les mer

  • Aug 27: The Durango & Silverton RR - 1

    27. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Durango, CO, is a large and picturesque town of around 19,000 people at 6,500 ft asl, where I'll spend two nights. I'm booked in the Parlor Car on the 9:30 steam-hauled departure on the Denver & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad from Durango, running 45 miles to Silverton (a designated National Historic District) and back. Happily, the Parlor (American spelling) Car is the hind-end vehicle on the 15-car train, so we 20 passengers have our own rear-end platform from which to observe and photograph the train ahead and the passing vista. I won’t attempt to cover in detail everything about this tourist railroad, as their website is available and well worth a look.

    Durango, CO, was founded by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway (later to become the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad) in 1880, as part of that railroad’s extensive narrow-gauge network pushed into the Colorado mountains, and built to carry out the diverse product of the (then) numerous mines that drove the state's historical mining booms. These mines produced gold, silver, lead, zinc, copper, and molybdenum, but also coal, uranium, tungsten, and, to a lesser extent, beryllium, vanadium, iron, and lithium; mineral resources that have been central to Colorado's development. Whereas the rest of the D&RG rail system was built to the national Standard-Gauge (4 ft 8½ in between rails), a track gauge of just 3 ft was chosen for these remote-area rail routes, to facilitate more affordable construction of the sharp curvature and steep gradients required. The spunky little steam locomotives were built specifically for the mountainous narrow-gauge environment and are actually quite wide in measurement; for the engine crew the cab environment is not cramped. To provide for the skinny 3-foot track gauge and still have a locomotive with boiler and pistons large enough for the task, the running gear (wheel-sets) is mounted inside the locomotive frame rather than outside as is more usual with steam locomotives. The valve gear and motion (pistons and drive rods) that drive the axles, though, is outside the frame and highly visible.

    This narrow-gauge railroad arrived in Durango in 1881, and construction of the line to Silverton began immediately. By mid-1882, the track to Silverton was completed, and the train began hauling both freight and passengers. Although the line was constructed primarily to haul mineral ore from Southwest Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, passengers soon realised it was the view that was truly precious. After the industry had declined, and the Rio Grande RR had abandoned the route, it was eventually purchased by a private entrepreneur. The historic train has therefore been in continuous operation since 1882, carrying passengers behind steam and (sometimes, now) diesel locomotives and other rollingstock indigenous to the line. In my view, it is absolutely a world-class Tourist & Heritage rail product (and I’ve been on a few).

    My abiding interest in these narrow-gauge railways is as much about the infrastructure engineering—the locomotive archaeology and how the challenges of the local geography have been overcome—as it is about the picturesque little trains themselves.

    The D&SNGRR runs 45.4 miles each way between Durango and Silverton along the Animas River—one of the last free-flowing rivers in the entire western United States—during their summer season May-October, climbing 3,000 ft on a maximum 2.5% (1-in-40) grade on the northbound run. Shorter winter trips, when the entire route cannot be traversed due to snowdrift constraints and the avalanche and rockslide danger, are also provided. The route along the Animas, which rises high in the San Juan Mountains and ends in a confluence with the San Juan River in New Mexico, boasts striking canyon scenery. Throughout the season, the river will rise from around 400 cubic feet per second in April, to over 6,000 cfs at peak snowmelt runoff in June and will mellow out again in September. The train crosses the river five times on its journey to Silverton, offering spectacular views from both sides of the train. It passes fertile farmlands, follows an old stagecoach road, passes a remote hydro power plant (still-operating, they say, with its original turbines and generators), old mining camps, climbs around spectacular elevated cliff-top shelves, and is in the shadow of peaks reaching over 14,000 feet, often with year-round snow! Every summertime train is followed (at a safe distance) by a fire patrol crew on a track speeder who will extinguish any lineside fire started by the locomotive. This fire danger is mitigated by the railroad’s current program of converting their steam locomotive fleet from coal to oil (they use recycled motor-vehicle, restaurant, and industrial oil). I don’t know what the difference in ejected particulate matter is, but--as with coal-burning locomotive operation--the emissions from the stack remain reliant on the fireman’s competence.

    Wildlife (all of it elusive) that can apparently be seen includes deer, elk, black bear, bighorn sheep, mountain lions and moose as well as eagles, hawks, osprey, geese, squirrels, marmots and fox. We see one bear (ambling across a grassy field about a half mile away), a deer or two and some large birds that no-one was able to identify.

    After departing Durango, the ride follows the river all the way, mostly through aspen and Douglas fir in the lower elevations, with Ponderosa pine also common. Higher elevations feature more specialised mountain flora like a spruce type, subalpine fir, and something a car host called Limber pine (the name coming from the species’ exceptionally flexible twigs, which can even be tied into a knot without breaking - a characteristic that helps it survive in harsh, windswept environments). There is a fairly brief but spectacular portion of trackage around a couple of canyon bluffs about 400 ft above the river.

    The train runs into the centre of Silverton village , a tourist and skiing mecca, and there is time for return-trip passengers to visit one of many cafes and restaurants for lunch, before the train (which has been turned in its entirety via a wye track, so that all return-trip passengers get the canyon views regardless of which side of the train they’ve been seated on) departs for Durango. There is a full snack and booze service on board by personable car hosts who ensure the passengers are aware of where they are at all times, the history of the line, and a bit of the technical side of Colorado narrow-gauge railroading. There is also a ‘restroom’ (as they call them over here) on the car.

    I didn’t get all the photos I’d like to have, as it’s sometimes difficult to be ready for a passing view and to beat other foamers to that rear platform. The car windows, though, can be opened halfway, so if you're ready, point-and-shoot photos can still be snapped. One also tends to get into animated conversation with other pax, and photograph opportunities are thus sometimes missed.

    I recommend the trip.
    Les mer

  • Aug 29: Cumbres & Toltec RR - 1

    29. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A photo essay!
    The next day (28th), I take a drive around historic Durango and spend an hour at the D&SNGRR museum, which is in a separate portion of the railroad roundhouse (workshop), before heading out on US-160 to Pagosa Springs, then US-84 down to Chama [CHAH-ma], New Mexico.

    Chama is a small village, a bit unprepossessing to look at, but they do host the annual wintertime SnoBall Balloon Rally (in which hot air balloon pilots fly each morning over the Chama Valley’s picturesque snow-covered mountains) and I’m two days too early for the annual Chama Valley Art festival and Studio Tour. The village is situated at the southern end of the Cumbres [say Kewm-briz] & Toltec Scenic Railroad, and truly 'scenic' the railroad is. Chama is also the locomotive servicing and maintenance location, where the two remaining stalls of an original roundhouse are still used as a workshop where full locomotive restorations can be and are carried out. The passenger car and rollingstock workshop is located separately at Antonita at the northern end of the railroad.

    I check into the historic old but recently refurbished Iron Rails Hotel, directly across from the passenger depot, for two nights. Tomorrow, I’ll travel on the 10:00 am departure on America’s longest and highest narrow-gauge railway, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic RR for the 64-mile run across Cumbres Pass to Antonito, arriving there at 4:55 pm after a 1-hr stop at Osier [OH-szher] for a superb buffet lunch. Arriving at Antonito, passengers board a road coach for the 1-hr run back to Chama, for a wonderful day out of just over 8 hrs.

    Once again, I’ve booked the Parlor Car and once again it’s the last car on the train and we have our own car host, bar service, and restroom. Happily, the drop-down windows on this car open further than those on the D&S, so photo-taking is a bit easier. I go across to the depot to watch an empty train depart for Antonito… either they’re dead-heading an empty consist to Antonita for a southbound service tomorrow or no-one has booked this trip (apparently, the C&TSRR is concerned about a recent drop-off in bookings). There’s a lot of theatrical whistle-signaling as they marshal the train and complete a brake test.

    As with the Durango & Silverton, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad was originally constructed as part of the Rio Grande’s narrow-gauge San Juan Extension, which served the silver mining district of the San Juan mountains in southwestern Colorado. Like other Rio Grande RR mineral lines at the time, it was built to a 3-ft gauge instead of the more common 4 ft 8½ inches that was standard within the United States. Freight-wise, the railroad hauled ore, timber, cattle, and sheep. Passenger-wise, it also carried travellers to and from the region on a daily passenger train that included a First-Class Parlor Car but which operation ended in 1951.

    However, when subsequent Federal government action (look up “1893 repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act 1890”, if you’re interested) had a devastating effect on the silver mining industry, traffic over the San Juan Extension failed to warrant conversion to standard-gauge. In the decades that followed, the railroad was mostly stagnant; its last major upgrades in equipment and infrastructure having happened in the 1920s. A post-World War II natural gas boom brought a brief period of prosperity to the line, but operations dwindled in the 1960s. Finally, in 1969 the Interstate Commerce Commission granted the Rio Grande’s request to abandon its remaining narrow-gauge main line trackage, thereby ending the last use of steam locomotives in general freight service in the United States.

    Most of the abandoned track was dismantled soon after the ICC’s decision, but through the combined efforts of an energetic and resourceful group of railway preservationists and local civic interests, the most scenic portion of the line was saved. In 1970, the states of Colorado and New Mexico jointly purchased the track and line-side structures from Antonito to Chama (including 9 steam locomotives, over 130 freight and work cars, and the Chama yard and maintenance facility), and the C&TSRR began hauling tourists the following year under the management of the non-profit Friends of the C&TSRR Inc. As with the D&S RR previously ridden on and discussed, the K-class engines are all outside-frame 2-8-2 "Mikado" types built by the Baldwin Locomotive Works specifically for this narrow-gauge service.

    Soon, it’s time to join my train, and I climb aboard the Parlor Car to meet my 3 table companions. My car host greets me with, “You’ll be sitting with a pretty crazy family group”. I have no alternative but to assure her, “Good… I expect I’ll fit in perfectly” (and so it transpires). We whistle out of the depot and within a mile are onto the unrelenting 4% grade (or 1-in-25; for each 25 feet we move ahead, we ascend 1 foot) that will take us, with very little respite, up to the Cumbres Pass. The mileposts we see on the righthand side of the track relate to the original railroad mileage measured from Denver. Four miles after departing Chama, we cross the Lobato trestle (more a bridge than a ‘trestle’), the second highest on the line, 100 ft above the creek. We continue winding up the valley of Wolf Creek at 15 to 17 mph and 9 miles later we pull into the siding and station of Cumbres, the highest point on the line at 10,015 ft. Close-by, Hwy 17 summits the actual Cumbres Pass at 10,022 ft and shortly later, La Manga Pass at 10,230 ft before it too descends to Antonito. The little railway settlement of Cumbres had historically been populated by a few families who would have enjoyed their summers but would have battled through fierce winter storms and 20-ft snowdrifts, as the men battled to keep the line open.

    From Cumbres the railroad continues on more accommodating grades to Cascade Trestle (another modernised bridge), the railroad’s highest bridge—137 ft above Cascade Creek—and down to Osier, where the train pauses for an hour as we all troop into a warm and comfortable dining hall for an excellent buffet lunch; 3 courses if you want them. While we’re here, the opposing train from Antonito comes up and also pauses in the yard for its passengers. For a hectic hour or so, the dining hall is very busy as are the wonderful locals who run it for the C&TSRR. Within our scheduled hour here, we’ve spare time to walk around and inspect this little railroad locality. The hamlet once sported a store, traveller’s rooming house, railroad employee’s section house, passenger depot, cattle yards, coal loading dock, and a covered locomotive turntable. Apart from the rooming house and the covered turntable, these structures have been maintained as museums and are available to inspect.

    We depart Osier and run on a helpful grade above the Rio De Los Pinos to the ‘Rock Tunnel’ (blasted through 360 ft of solid rock and unlined), where we negotiate the Toltec Gorge by running along a ledge 600 ft above the river and 800 ft from the opposite rim. Our car host explains that ‘toltec’ is the Spanish word for gorge, and she is surprised—because she apparently hadn’t thought about it before—that this means the place is really named as ‘gorge gorge’. Great hilarity… and I resist the overwhelming temptation to use the word ‘tautology’. We continue up another long valley and around its head to return to where we were (but on the valley’s opposite side) and negotiate the ‘Mud Tunnel’, which IS lined (with timber battens) and past Toltec Siding.

    Now the line is mostly descending, and the heavy work for the trusty K-class locomotive is over. Soon, we’re winding down through the double-reverse ‘Whiplash Curve’ and Lava Loop (otherwise known as Big Horn Siding), where D&RGW snow ploughs were once stabled during winter, then down a steep scarp into a wide desert valley along which we make the final descent along a lengthy stretch of tangent track to our destination, the town of Antonito. C&TSRR passengers who might make this trip in the southbound direction will come up from Antonito through this desolate area and have no idea of the magnificent alpine scenery awaiting them.

    We arrive into the Antonito passenger depot by scribing a wide looping arc, past the car depot where rollingstock is maintained and new passenger cars built, that places the train at the station on a southerly heading for its departure tomorrow. The road coach awaits, and within an hour delivers us back over the mountain to Chama.

    A fantastic day out on a fantastic narrow-gauge steam railway. It has to be the best such product in the world. New Zealand has the Taieri Gorge Limited that has realistic similarities to the C&TSRR (and a few advantages the C&TSRR doesn’t have, including proximity to a major city and airport, and being able to uplift passengers directly off a cruise ship and return them there). Will the civic interests of Otago, and the nation’s government, ever comprehend what a unique, world-class asset they have?
    Les mer

  • Aug 29: Cumbres & Toltec RR - 2

    29. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The photo essay continues.

  • Aug 29: Cumbres & Toltec RR - 3

    29. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The photo essay continues.

  • Aug 30: Cumbres & Toltec RR - 4

    30. august, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I photograph the train from the highway. And I apologise for items that are out-of-synch and for the repetitions. In the end, I had to just dump stuff here.

    Today I drove from Chama to Denver; about a six-hr drive with a stop at Alamosa for fuel and food. The route was Hwy-17 from Chama to Antonito, then US-285 over Poncha Pass (9,000 ft), Red Hill Pass (9,986 ft), Kenosha Pass (10,000 ft), then onto Hwy-122 near Aspen Park (S Turkey Ck Rd), then Hwy-124 (S Deer CK Canyon Rd/W Deer Ck Canyon Rd), then Valley Rd to US-470 and I-70/76 into downtown Denver. The GPS took me on quite a scenic entrance to the southern suburbs of Denver... I'll assume it was because of traffic congestion on this Labor Day weekend, so I didn't mind. It did, however, bypass me around the town of Moffat, which I shall get to later.

    For now, it's hole up in my hotel, rest, and get the Blog up-to-date, then maybe look at Denver.
    Les mer

  • Sep 1: Colorado Rail Museum, Denver

    5. september, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Had to check this out. Not bad... they've got a lot on the go. Great gift shop, video theatre, and library!

  • Sep 3: A quick return to Chama, NM - 1

    5. september, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I had unfinished business down in Chama, so set off from Denver early to Manitou Springs to ride the 10:00 cog train to the 14,115-ft summit of Pikes Peak. Considering that NZ's highest mountain, Aorangi Mt Cook, is 'only' 12,200 ft asl, one does find oneself a smidge breathless up there. When I was flying, you NEVER went above 10,000 ft unless your aircraft was pressurised or you had a supplemental oxygen supply.

    Now, the mountaineers who scaled Mt Cook, only had to ascend around 9,700 ft, since The Hermitage Hotel is already at 2,460 ft. Regarding the ascent of Pikes Peak, Denver is at 5,280 ft (not for nothing is it known as The Mile-High City), Colorado Springs, to the south, is at 6,033 ft, and the lower terminus of the Pikes Peak Cog Railway in Manitou Springs is at 6,571 ft. So the train 'only' takes you up 7,544 ft to get to 14,115 ft. Believe me, though, you're a bit breathless even walking from the carpark to the terminus!

    Because the Front Range landforms around Pikes Peak are themselves at such an elevation, you're not really aware by visual observation of the great height to which you're ascending. And because the 'lowest' location you can see from the summit is Colorado Springs (6,033 ft), once again, the perception of your own elevation is reduced. Pity the hazy atmosphere on the day, as we're told that when it's clear (is it ever?) you can see wind generators on the Kansas state border (with binoculars), which is about 163 miles away! There is great info and images here;
    https://www.cograilway.com/about-us/cog-history/
    and here;
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pikes_Peak_Cog_Ra…

    From Manitou Springs, I headed down to Pueblo and a wee village called Walsenburg, where I turned up into the Front Range to North La Veta Pass (9,413 ft) and down into Alamosa (7,543 ft). From there, it was down (on the map, not in elevation!) across flat country to Antonito (7,888 ft) and once more across La Manga Pass (10,230 ft) and almost immediately, Cumbres Pass (10,022 ft) and into Chama (7,825 ft) for the night. A breathless 12-hr day, with about 7 hrs driving.
    Les mer

  • Sep 4: A quick return to Chama, NM - 2

    5. september, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The next day, it was back to Denver via Bailey... 6½ hrs if you don't stop, which I did for food, and later for fuel. This time, I was determined to check out the (almost) village of Moffat on Hwy-17, so from Alamosa I went thataway. Moffat was established thanks to the Coloradan millionaire, David Moffat and almost became important before the world caught up with it and consigned it to the dusty dustbin of history. But I'd heard of Grammy's Kitchen and, having not partaken of breakfast, it was past my lunchtime. I'm glad I pulled in there... what a place! Check this out;
    https://grammyskitchenmoffat.com

    Moffat (7,566 ft) is out on the scrubby flatlands of the massive San Luis Valley, was a narrow-gauge rail mecca in the early mining days, and might have been the state capital at one time. Alas...

    Replete, I continued across the valley floor and commenced the almost imperceptible climb up to Poncho Pass (8,010 ft). You get a shock as you crest the summit though (a gentle summit... a bit like that hill between Athol and Five Rivers in Southland), as the descent of those 500 ft from there into Poncha Springs (7,477 ft) is abrupt.

    From Poncha Springs, I follow US-285 the 142 miles to Denver. This is a convoluted route that cruises across broad valleys and climbs and descends some interesting topography... not least the descent of the Front Range directly into Denver.
    Les mer

  • Sep 6: Denver to Craig

    6. september, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I decided to leave Denver and head out west to visit the town of Craig in Moffat County, CO, as that is where the Museum of Northwest Colorado (originally called the Moffat County Museum) is located. The museum incorporates a Moffat Road Railroad Display that features photos and memorabilia about the Denver, Northwestern & Pacific Railway, founded by David Moffat. I'm looking to see if I can find something about David Moffat's Scottish ancestry. On the way, I’ll be passing through Granby, CO, and they have something called the Moffat Road Railroad Museum. However, I saw it from the “California Zephyr” when I went out to Grand Junction, and I’ve looked at their website. I’m not convinced that I’d feel fulfilled by visiting it or that it’d have much in the way of David Moffat ancestral material, so I’ll bypass it.

    Well, I might have made a planning error around my departure from Denver, as I decided to start my road-trip west by going up to Lookout Mountain (7,500 ft) above Golden, for a goodbye view of Denver. But I had not considered the smoke haze originating from Canadian bushfires, that ruined the view just as it had when I was on Pikes Peak. My bad, I was disappointed and decided to move on, resisting the temptation to visit both Buffalo Bill’s museum and his gravesite, and the Triceratops Trail. And then I compounded my planning error by taking the Lariat Loop option down off the mountain.

    This road descended 1,300 ft in 4.3 miles through numerous hairpin curves, and connected me with US-6 up Clear Creek Canyon. This was going to be exciting! The canyon is said to be one of the narrowest, steepest and most dramatic in Colorado, and is internationally known as a rock-climbing area. 12 miles in, I passed Mayhem Gulch Trailhead, the start of the new, dual-use Peaks to Plains Trail, which will eventually stretch all the way between Golden and Idaho Springs. I drove past several miles of newly constructed creekside paved trails and steel bridges crammed into the canyon. The quality of the infrastructure was amazing.

    I took the loop up to Black Hawk, advertised as the largest gambling center in Colorado with 10,000 slot machines, poker, Black Jack and roulette in nearly two dozen resort/spa casinos. From Black Hawk, it was a one mile climb to the historic mining town of Central City which, in the 1870s, apparently had a population of 30,000 and was the largest gold rush boom town in Colorado. I drove through slowly, as the town is a treasure trove of beautiful brick and stone Victorian buildings.

    So, why was all of this a planning error? Because it used up time and took me away from Interstate 70 by which I’d have been able to visit the Georgetown Loop Railroad, yet another narrow-gauge ex-mining Coloradan railroad with spectacular construction and scenery. I’ll just have to satisfy myself with their website and various YouTube videos, and add it to my ‘next time’ list.

    So, now committed to the alternative route to US-40, I pressed on. I did get onto a brief portion of I-70 before I had to swing off onto US-40 which would take me all the way to my destination. Craig is about 200 miles to the northwest of Denver and might take around 4½ hrs if you didn’t stop (which I do). So, wanting to get there well before sundown, I can’t afford the time to visit the Georgetown Loop.

    As if the lower Clear Creek Canyon on US-6 wasn’t enough, there were plenty more mountains to come. My route on US-40 continued along the upper Clear Creek valley (more a gorge) before commencing a steep and sinuous climb over the Continental Divide at Berthoud Pass (11,315 ft). What followed, was an equally steep and partly sinuous descent into the Fraser Valley, where I drove through the expensive-looking ski resort town of Winter Park and across the western portal of the Moffat Tunnel without even realising it! I came to my senses as soon as I realised the Union Pacific Railroad was running parallel to me.

    My drive continued down the Faser Valley to Granby, where I was just in time to view the eastbound California Zephyr from the overpass as it departed the Granby station. Onward I pressed; sometimes alongside the Colorado River (from where we’d been ‘mooned’ about 20 times when passing aboard the westbound ‘Zephyr’ nearly 2 weeks ago) and sometimes across rolling tracts of alpine prairie. Through Hot Sulphur Springs I went (tempted to stop and try them out), then Kremmling, an historic ranching and hunting mountain gateway at the confluence of the Colorado, Blue, and Muddy Rivers. Once again, I encountered the Continental Divide at the relatively low Muddy Pass (8,772 ft) and almost immediately, a crossing of the Park Range and Rabbit Ears Ranges via Rabbit Ears Pass (9,429 ft) to the large and famous resort town of Steamboat Springs. This skiing mecca is so-named because 19th-century French trappers were reminded of the sound of a steamboat by the perpetually gurgling and steaming "chug-chug" sound of a nearby natural mineral spring.

    I finally drove into Craig at 5:30 pm after a fascinating and scenic road trip. David Moffat had long held a dream of connecting Denver and Salt Lake City, UT, via a railroad across Colorado, but Craig was as far as his Denver, Northwestern & Pacific Railway (the famed ‘Moffat Road’) reached before the company’s bankruptcy and later, his death. It is therefore fascinating to learn of a current State government proposal to reinstate passenger rail on this route. https://www.codot.gov/projects/coloradomountain…

    I’ll check out the Visitor Centre on Sunday and the Museum when it opens on Monday. After that, I intend to head for Cheyenne, WY, as Chicago beckons and I must return to Traverse City, MI, by late Sep.
    Les mer

  • Sept 8: Craig, CO

    8. september, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Craig is a large town. It's a 'home rule city' that is the county seat of and the most populous municipality in Moffat County, Colorado. The city population is just over 9,000. Wikipedia says that Home rule gives local municipalities the power to make legislation relevant to their areas, exercising control over issues of local concern while minimising state intervention in municipal affairs. The immediate area is home to the largest power generation plant in Colorado and several coal mines, from which long trainloads are dispatched via the Union Pacific RR. According to the local chamber of commerce, Craig is the "Elk Hunting Capital of the World", and this may not surprise, given that Moffat County is home to two of North America's largest herds of migratory elk. The region is also a prime spot for hunting antelope, deer, and small game.

    The town is the terminus of a Union Pacific Railroad branch line that connects with the UP main line at Bond, CO, although trackage extends another 25 miles out to a couple of coal mines. The line was originally built by David Moffat's Denver & Salt Lake Railway to connect Denver with Salt Lake City (later gaining the name 'The Moffat Road') but was only completed as far west as Craig. The story around this is fascinating history. As of August 2024, the Colorado Department of Transportation is studying a proposal for a state-run passenger train service between Denver and Craig via Winter Park (the western portal of the Moffat Tunnel) and Steamboat Springs.

    Craig is transitioning from legacy extractive industries and has a significant agricultural base. Moffat County's agricultural economy is built around livestock ranching, particularly cattle--due to the county's vast rangeland environment and semi-arid climate--and related feed production, especially hay.

    As with all the places I visit on this whistle-stop tour, my time in Craig is limited. Were I to be staying here on a longer vacation, I'd be able to visit ancient dinosaur territory, wild mustang country, and legendary outlaw locations, such as those of Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch (not to mention the ranch of the two Bass sisters, both of whom he romanced). Do you remember the opening words on the screen title card in the 1969 movie, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid... "Most of what follows is true"? ... well, in the Museum of Northwest Colorado in downtown Craig, you can find out what was and wasn't.

    For me though, although I was most impressed with the compact and beautifully curated display of 'old west' history and paraphernalia, my museum visit was focused on gleaning any ancestral material on Colorado financier, businessman, and millionaire railroader, David Moffat. I've long wanted to examine his ancestral beginnings in Scotland and to see where they might have connected with those of my family. As the current Chieftain of Clan Moffat--Madame Jean Moffat of That Ilk--has written in her history of the Moffats, anyone with the family name, regardless of the spelling, is related.

    So I went to the museum and met the Director, Dan Davidson (who reminds me of someone... was it Capt. 'Trapper' John in the Mash TV series?), and Claire Ketterman, the Asst. Registrar, and in so-doing I struck gold. Dan scanned a couple of documents he'd received from a lady who lived back along the highway in Steamboat Springs and was a distant relative of David's wife, Francis. I rang and spoke to her, but decided not to intrude, as she was busy with Meals On Wheels. We'll stay in contact though.

    So, I've now got David Moffat's family tree that takes his ancestry back as far as Ireland. I've also received a copy of a family history booklet written by David Moffat's Great-Uncle, Hector Moffat, in 1907. He recounts, correctly, the religious struggles and persecution in the late 1600s that resulted in many Presbyterian Moffats (including some of ours) being driven from Scotland to Ireland. Hector Moffat suggests that his family--as does ours--can be traced back to Robert de Moffet and Thomas Moffet, both of Dumfriesshire. For us, this is getting very 'close to home'. Mr Moffat is also aware that, "the Moffats had become a numerous and powerful border clan of Scotland", and informs us that, "many of the ancestors of American Moffats were less than 50 years in Ireland before departing for America and that many others were there less than 100 years before high rents, the potato famines, and religious unpleasantness made another move imperative. Strong emigration to America began in 1729; in 1770-1780 the yearly emigration from Ulster was a perfect flood of people. Many Moffats have come direct from Scotland and others from England."

    This material provides me with fertile substance to look deeper into Moffat family connections in that ancient Scotland, and this I'll do. Thank you very much, Dan and Claire, for everything!
    Les mer