• Piazzale Michelangelo and the Troubadour

    August 25 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    Florence

    Most of today was a "free day". Well not so much free, there was shopping involved, but mostly unplanned. Meaning shopping wherever we wanted.

    After our Duomo tour, we went back to the condo for lunch (fabulous leftovers from yesterday), and a little relaxing.

    Then it was off to the Ponte Vecchio where we shopped and gelatoed.

    We another round of relaxing prior to the nightcap.

    Piazzale Michelangelo Sunset

    The Piazzale Michelangelo overlooks the Florence, the Arno River, Ponte Vecchio and the Duomo.

    We took pictures while waited for the sunset while we listened to a troubadour playing romantic classics on his violin.

    Some silly people may have burst a few bubbles too.
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  • The Duomo

    August 25 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

    Like so many of the churches here, it is impossible to see all there is to see.

    Santa Maria del Fiore is one of the largest churches in the world: its layout consists of a basilica with three naves, but today I learned why everyone simply calls it the Duomo.

    The dome is overwhelming. Of course the entirety (inside and out) is filled with art, history a d beauty, but the dome which is octagonal, is the centerpiece. It us a series of frescos and is stunning to see from the floor. But if one is willing to do the 437 steps (we did not), one could see it all much closer.

    There is so much there from clocks to sculptures to stained glass, but truly enjoyed what the guide taught us about the clock.

    It is a 24 hour clock that runs counterclockwise. The day begins at sunset and measures 24 hours until the next sunset. And every 10 days the clock has to be adjusted as the daylight times grow longer or shorter. The day begins at sunset. Who knew?
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  • Our Firenza Apartment!

    August 24 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Our lodging in Florence (Firenza) was a very charming apartment in the heart of old Florence. It was called Oasis in the Heart of Florence. We were within walking distance to mostly everything we wanted to see. Our host did arrange several taxis for us also. We were surrounded by restaurants and shops. Close to the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. We very much enjoyed it!Read more

  • Travel Day

    August 24 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Today we made the commute from Lake Como to Florence (about 241 miles). In Italy you travel by train whenever possible. Train travel is so pleasant. Plenty of room, no hassle, easy in and out.

    On our ride, the train reached a top speed of 340 k/hr (211 mph) and it felt like 50 mph.

    The highlight of the day was lunch. We finally found good gluten free food for Gary. The food was incredibly tasteful and we brought half of it back to the flat.

    Our home here in Florence is an Air B&B. It is an authentic Italian flat. It is nice and quaint.

    Mom wanted a purse from Italy and Florence is the place. We got in early enough to dip into several shops.
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  • Lake Ride

    August 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    After getting rained out (lightly sprinkled out) on Thursday, we got to enjoy our day on the lake.

    With Captian Gary driving us around Lake Como, we got to see the opposing views, all the towns and villages perched on the sides of the surrounding mountains.

    There were sailboats, wind surfers and kite sailors. My Lovely is enchanted by the mountains and she got her fill as the cool lake water sprayed about.

    Locating the castle from the lake was a highlight (after the fabulous evening before), as was seeing so many churches in each of the towns.

    We were very fortunate with the weather and the wonderful company. Thank you Patty and Gary for being with us on this journey
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  • Medieval Aperitivo

    August 22 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    In Italy, an aperitivo (aperitif) is a cultural ritual, not just a drink, that involves enjoying a low-alcohol beverage and snacks in the early evening to stimulate the appetite before dinner.

    This was so much more. The evening was already a tremendous success as we had just been frolicking in the Castle, absorbed the grounds; and been mesmerized by the views. Now, we were ready to treat our taste buds.

    A prosecco and a Chianti Canaiolo.

    A charcuterie of pizza, Parma ham, prosciutto and salami, goat cheese, carmelized onions, tomatoes and mozzarella, grapes, peppers and more.

    Dusk graced us al fresco. Light music in the background and the panorama everywhere else. A perfect evening.
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  • Have Fun Storming the Castle

    August 22 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Castello de Vezio exceeded expectations. Not only mine, but all four of us.

    We expected ruins. And yes, these were ruins, but with plenty still intact including an outer wall and a castle tower (known as "A Keep"), complete with a draw bridge.

    We got to climb the Keep to the top and enjoy the fabulous views.

    At each stage of the tower, weapons, armor, flags and the like were displayed. I could not help but think of the boys as I looked at the weapons.

    The ruins were great, but in such Italian style, the grounds were impeccably manicured.

    Then to top it all off, we went there to enjoy an aperitif. Again exceeding expectations. The presentation was beautiful. The flavors were some of the best so far, and the portions... simply too much. We expected to tease our appetites, it was dinner with leftovers.

    We had so much fun, there will be several footprints to house all the photos.
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  • Ghosts of Vezio Castle

    August 22 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Credit: mymodernmet.com

    When visiting Castello di Vezio, you aren't alone. There are “Ghosts” that dot the grounds.

    These ghosts of Vezio are plaster casts made by the managers of the castle each year. Tourists volunteer to have plaster fitted to them, which are used to create these ghostly figures. They are then left to the elements throughout the winter until a new season begins and the ghosts are cast anew. These ghosts are one of the castle's biggest attractions, but why are they on the grounds and what do they represent?

    It's all linked to a legend about why the castle was built in the first place.

    The castle was built thanks to the wishes of Theodelinda. She was the queen of the Lombards, the Germanic people who ruled this part of Italy for several hundred years. It's said that she spent the last years of her life in the area and wished to leave behind a church and oratory with a prominent bell tower as part of her legacy.

    Though that never happened, the legend states that her heart and soul are buried within the walls of the Vezio Castle and that her soul wanders its halls on moonless nights. These plaster sculptures are a physical representation of that legend that certainly adds to the beauty and mystery of the castle.

    If you want to get a glimpse of them in person, the Vezio Castle is open every year from March until early November.
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  • Castle Serendipity

    August 22 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Castle serendipity

    My Lovely said "Biggest Surprise".

    The surprise was that it was twice, or thrice, as much fun as we expected.

    More than a couple "Princess Bride" references. Jesting about the castle provided for a merry time. More complete than we expected, we were transported to a child like place. Who wouldn't want to cross the draw bridge and ascend the Keep.

    The shields, weapons and coat of arms, I wished the boys could have been with us.
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  • Villa del Balbianello

    August 22 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    This is a venerable estate on the shores of Lake Como with ties back to the Catholic Church as it was originally a Fransican Monestary and later owned by a cardinal.

    However, this tour is more of a modern history. The last owner, Guido Monzino, who died at age 60 in 1988, and donated the estate.

    Monzino gained his wealth from owning department stores. A single man and an avid explorer.

    This tour was actually the most enjoyable home I have toured. The home and grounds were stunning.

    It was old and concurrent with my lifetime as well (that actually could be sad). This was relatable (not the wealth, but the timeframe).

    Adventuresome - Monzino was an explorer. He planned, financed and participated in many expeditions over 20 years, including Mt Everest. The first (and so far only) Italian led expedition. He also led an old school expedition to the north pole utilizing sleds and teams of huskies. His collections were fun to see.

    And last but not least, there was the Star Wars connection. There were scenes from the "Attack of the Clones" that were shot here. And while I do not have a connection to it, we do have a connection to boys. There was no minor amount of fun in getting photos to share with the boys.

    I have to mention a couple of things about the Star Wars Connection. The place is gorgeous and photo worthy, but the lines were formed for the Star Wars photos. 2 different locations and the fans were particular to get the photo correct. We were fortunate to have a fan in our tour group to help us along. Additionally, there was a couple of older (I think) Japanese ladies in our group that needed to leave the tour early or miss their boat. The question they asked before making their decision?

    "Will there be any more Star Wars stuff to see?"

    After getting photos of My Lovely in the pose and in the position, I could not wait to text the boys (sleeping in the middle of the night back in the states). I wanted them to wake to pictures of mom and Star Wars.

    Jacob's response..." So freaking jealous....How did you get on Naboo?" (Answer ..smuggled aboard the Millennium Falcon!)

    Sam's response to Bear's pic..."Bro's literally Anakin!"

    So much fun!
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  • Rained Out - by a Sprinkle

    August 21 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Just sit right back and you'll hear a tale,
    A tale of a cancelled trip,
    That started from this Italian port
    Along this tourist strip.

    The mate was a mighty sailing man,
    The skipper brave and sure.
    Four passengers were to set sail that day
    For a four hour tour, a four hour tour.

    The spinkles started getting rough,
    The tiny ship was aborted,
    If not for the courage of the shopping crew
    The day would be lost, the day would be lost.

    The afternoon was saved by a little light reading, six stores that needed to be shopped and a tad bit of gelato.
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  • Villa Monastero

    August 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Varenna, a short walk past the piazza.

    A little history first.
    Villa Monastero was initially a monastery founded at the end of the 12th century on the shores of Lake Como. At that time, the monastery was more like a farmhouse as opposed to the palace it is now.

    At the beginning of the 17th century it was transformed into more of a palace. Then remodeled a couple more times in the 1800's.

    Confiscated by Germany during WWI. Ultimately owned by a swiss couple who donated the property to the state in 1937 so that it could create a museum and an institute for hydrogeological studies. It now hosts scientific conferences and tourists. .

    We enjoyed a relaxing morning in touring the museum and botanical gardens. The grounds stretch along the shore.

    Peaceful. Beautiful. Views of the lake and mountains. A large variety of plant life, but not over done or over crowded.

    The villa museum was a walk back in time. Again, the ceilings grab you. Here, everything is a canvas.

    A morning spent walking hand in hand. A perfect vacation day.
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  • Shop Hard

    August 20 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    Today was the day without planned activities. A relaxing day? Yes, we were very relaxed. capital One and the shop owners gave us 2 thumbs up because we were so relaxed. We shopped hard.

    Me and my shoes. My Lovely and her new purse. A necklace for a sweet little girl, a souvenir for a friend, a print for us and a few other little tidbits. That was just for us. Patty made a bit of a splash as well. We were so fortunate that the shop owners supplied us so well.

    Bellagio was beautiful. Yes, we saw things other than the shops. Beautiful old buildings, olive trees, pretty flowers and of course, the lake. It wasn't as crowded as I had expected. Nothing in a rush - not for us and not for others.

    We have another stop today in Menaggio. We will see if the tally increases, but I doubt it.

    And tonight, we are dressing for dinner. We have to pick outfits for our shoes and purse.
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  • Menaggio

    August 20 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The are many villages on Lake Como, but the prime trio are Bellagio, Menaggio and Varrenna, all connected by ferry rides.

    Bellagio is by far the more well known with more shopping, restaurants and tourists.

    Our time in Menaggio was relaxed. Just a couple of hours spent there. A visit in a lovely little church with an interesting exhibit of crocheted dolls, a little light shopping and of course - gelato.

    From Amy...I might have fallen in love with some adorable carved ducks ...there might be one coming home via mail....
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  • Hotel Albergo Milano, Varenna

    August 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We really enjoyed our time in Varenna. I thought it might be too much time, but Pat was right...it was perfect. Patty loved our small hotel, the Albergo Milano, in Varenna. Who wouldn't? It was right on the shore and our side by side rooms had beautiful Terraces. We spent some time every day enjoying the views from there. Also very cool is the fact that the hotel is always in the images of Varenna, so all the paintings and artwork usually include it.Read more

  • We Ain't There Yet. But gonna get there

    August 17 in the United States ⋅ 🌩️ 79 °F

    Yes, we began our trip by learning a lesson.

    Our flight out of Nashville was delayed. Delayed so long (more than 90 minutes) that we missed our connection in Philly to Zurich. There were a dozen people on our flight trying to make international connections - 5 of them for our flight.

    Let me cut past the chase. We got to the gate at 7:01 for a 7:05 departure - - - and they had closed the gate door. We missed our flight.

    The gate agent fussed that we know that should be at the gate at least 15 minutes early.

    The Lesson Learned: In the future, when we are going overseas, be in the departure city 12 hours in advance spend the night if neccessary.

    But let's look at the positive side.

    The first positive is that My Lovely is a trooper. We ran for it. She ran.

    The second positive is that My Lovely didn't let this bring her down. It was a roll with the punches thing. I love this lady.

    3rd Positive: (THIS IS THE CHASE)
    We caught a ride with Cole Trickle (Days Of Thunder reference). As I said, we ran. We ran some more. We limped for 15 seconds and ran some more. And then I saw the guy that drives the electric cart and I let out a whistle. He stopped. We jumped on, My Lovely behind the driver and me in the very back (facing backwards). We invited 2 others that were also trying to catch a flight. And off he went. This dude left OJ running through the airport in his dust (a really old Hertz commercial). Seriously, he was pedal to the metal. And he wasn't scared of his horn. This guy really wasn't scared of anything. Not even the speeding tickets. Not the cop cams. He was weaving this big cart through travelers without a second thought. He was driving so hard that I was trying to get to my wallet to get a tip for him, but I couldn't let go or I would have been thrown out --- that is no exaggeration. Once we got to the gate and had obviously missed the flight, I got him taken care of.

    4th Positive: We are still going, but we will get there about 9 hours later. We will miss walking around Zurich with Gary and Patty, but the purpose of going to Zurich (for us) was to take the Bernina Express. That is still on the table.

    5th Positive: Look at the previous footprint. 24 says in a carry-on and a personal bag. We still have all our luggage.

    6th Positive: Our concern at this point is being fresh. We don't want 1 thing to mess up the next thing. A life lesson "Never let 2 bad things happen back to back". So we booked a room for a nap during the extra long layover in London so that we are rested and happy. My Lovely was all about it.
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  • Travelling Light

    August 17 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    The whole packing thing has been a big part of the lead up.

    Of course, we have all the planning, reservations (Planes, Trains, Automobiles), tours bikes, etc, but the packing has been a thing. Not a bad thing - a fun challenge.

    24 days. 1 carry-on suit case and 1 personal item each (with our biking helmet in the carry-on) .

    We are not checking bags. There will be hikes from trains to hotels over stone pavers.

    We have a week in the tight quarters of a sailing yatch.

    And fortunately, My Lovely has got this.
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  • The Wrap Up

    July 7 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Let's start off with the bottom line first:

    We have to go back to Colorado ... several more times.

    There was too much awesome, too little time.

    We had to trim a week off the trip to begin with, but I could see a bi-annual trip, taking in new areas each time.

    What ranks the best of this trip?

    It is not so easy. So I'm going to cheat and break it down into categories.

    Most Important Thing:
    Seeing Jacob graduate (and with honors) and spending time with him.

    2nd Most Important Thing:
    Leaving Texas and New Mexico. Just HOT & DREARY. Take me to the mountains.

    Best Camp Ground:
    Difficult Campground. It was quiet, peaceful, in the woods, cool, near the river but most importantly, it didn't just give us an opportunity to ride our bikes, but it would have crazy if we hadn't riden those awesome trails into Aspen.

    Best Hike:
    I preferred the Gem Lake Trail with the multitude of payoffs.
    The Maroon Bells Trail was a close, almost too close, 2nd. Maroon Bells was challenging and had a big payoff. But the Gem Lake Trail had many more.

    Best Day:
    Aspen, Maroon Bells. It was a big day with giant bike ride and an exceptional hike.

    Best Bike Ride:
    Maroon Bells was oh so close. It was fantastic. A nice long ride, very doable. You ride from the campsite through Aspen and on to the hiking, then 10 miles downhill. It was more than Awesome.

    However, our favorite was the Old Fall River Road. It was more challenging. It had the opportunity to be bigger than we were. But this ride was my lifetime favorite.

    The Extra Special Add In:
    The phone calls with Jacob. He is at tech school in Biloxi. We got to hear the excitement in his voice shortly after he got there. We got to hear his disappointment in his first duty station (Columbus MS). How can disappointment be Extra special? It is love. It is sharing. It is life.

    Surprise:
    The Kansas Sticker. Eisenhower Presidential Museum. Before all is said and done, I expect that we will see them all (all that are available).

    2nd. The Patty Melt. I like them ok, but My Lovely generally avoids bread. She asked if I could make a patty melt, and they came out great -- with a side home fries (one of My Lovely's favorites). The next thing you know .... Patty Melts 4 times in 2 weeks.

    A few short things to mention:
    We liked seeing elk grazing right there in town.
    Several times, we saw an elk just taking a nap in somebody's front yard.

    Driving Trail Ridge.
    My Lovely did the driving, and she did great. I saw no white knuckles, but the wind gust and camper swung a bit while we drove. It is a drive that she would prefer to avoid in the future. I guess I should feel guilty for enjoying it as much as I did -- but I don't.

    Wild Flowers
    My Lovely found great joy in the wild flowers everywhere. They were beautiful, but her enjoyment, taking those close up photos, the excitement of an even larger columbine, was beyond cute.

    I (Amy) was thrilled to get the chance to visit with Robin, Catherine, and Shandie for the day. It has been 16 years since we've seen each other in person. It was so, so sweet to see them! Pat enjoyed himself very much, too! We look forward to seeing them again on our future trips.
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  • I Like Ike

    July 6 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    We earned our Kansas sticker and had a good time doing it .

    We have to spend the night in a state and do something.

    This is our 2nd time to stay in Kansas (in transit), but there just isn't a lot in Kansas.

    I wanted to get a bike ride in (to Frontier Historical Park in Hays), but we got in a little late. I looked through the roadside attraction guide but failed. Then My Lovely spies the Eisenhower Presidential Museum.

    Homerun!!!

    We spent 3 hours there, and we will have to get the other half on our way back from the west coast. We simply ran out of time.

    Humble beginnings through preparing for peace, "Gently in manner, strong in deed," was Eisenhower.

    The museum walks us through his life, all the steps through his preparation.

    Ike applied for the Naval Academy because the appointment would be a free education. He was accepted at West Point.

    The exhibits follow his career, of course, but the base message was that Ike was uniquely qualified because of his assignments after West Point. Part of his success can be contributed to his even demeanor. He was well liked by the officers above him, and therefore benefited from tutlige and relevant assignments. Part because he was not ego minded. And he believed in hard work.

    Timeline Exhibit
    One of the best exhibits was a timeline exhibit. It was a world map with a scrolling dateline at the bottom. As the timeline progressed, descriptive headlines appear to describe what happened and where, at that particular time. The map also highlighted all the countries (by color) as either neutral, under Allied Control, or under Axis control. It was very informative and compelling (but moved too fast to take it all in).

    The museum is a 22-acre complex with a library, a museum, a place of reflection (his and Mamie's graves in a church like building), and his childhood home.

    We did not get to see it all. We got through WWII and just started his presidential years when we had to leave. We will return to finish the museum and see the house.

    What took us so long? We read almost every placard of information. The information was compelling. Seeing his career build and unfold got me. It was no accident that he became the Supreme Allied Commander. His career, his leadership, his deportment, and his character led him to a place where world leaders put him in the position to lead.

    I can't wait to see the rest of the museum. Ike was courted by both the Democrats and the Repbulicans. He entered the presidential race 2 months before the convention. Robert Taft entered the convention with enough votes to carry the nomination, but delegates switched over to Ike.
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  • Camp Dick Campground

    July 5 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Camp Dick was a serviceable campsite for us. There were no utilities and no amenities, but we had an inexpensive place to stay after we found out our camper would not fit in RMNP. We traveled 45 minutes each day through Estes Park into RMNP.

    We would have preferred to stay in the park or closer to the park, but an unexpected benefit was, because of our commute, we passed the St. Catherine of Seina Chapel daily, and we stopped in and enjoyed an unexpected pleasure.

    It was quiet, peaceful and cool at night.
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  • Gem Lake Trail

    July 4 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Nestled about 100 ft below a mountain top (at an elevation of 8,830 feet) is Gem Lake.

    This hike was special for several reasons. The payoff was great, but that wasn't my favorite part. The best thing about this hike is the many payoffs along the way. A consistent delight.

    You get just about everything in one hike (3.4 miles & 1000' of elecation gain) that you would or could expect out of a Colorado / RMNP hike - fabulous overlooks, greenery, the lake view, wildflowers and rock formations etc, but these joyful pleasures are dotted all along the trail.

    The trail begins on a ranch, and you just have to be envious as you trek through. As you moderately ascend, you views of the ranch, the backdrop of the mountain ranges in the background.

    This particular morning, there was rain in the forecast, and while we did not get wet, My Lovely truly enjoyed the rainbow beaming out of the mountain in the distance.

    When we got near the top, we got off the trail by accident. We were climbing a rockface (using all fours) that was tilted about 35 degrees. We were 150 feet from the top of the mountain, we were taking a safety break. I was thinking how much the boys would love this part. My Lovely was thinking that this couldn't be right. And of course, she was correct. We worked our way back down a bit, and just around the corner was Gem Lake -- the payoff.

    We enjoyed an apple, a breather, and the wonder of a piece of what Hod made for us.
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  • The Stanley Hotel, Estes Park, Colorado

    July 2 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Today we took a guided tour of the Stanley Hotel, perched between Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park. CO. I cannot imagine a more stunning surroundings for a Hotel. It opened in 1909 as a "guest house" for their wealthy friends (Astors, Rockefellers, Guggenheims, Carnegies, the Unsinkable Molly Brown... ) They all wanted to come spend summers with them in the mountains and their 5000+ square foot "cottage" wasnt large enough to accommodate the guests, their children, nannies, chefs, and servants.

    The Stanley's (identical twin brothers), known for the Stanley steamer cars, actually did not come from wealthy backgrounds. They made their fortune from a photograph process...they were making a profit equal to 4 million dollars a month in today's money.

    FO Stanley and his wife came to Estes Park on the recommendation of his Dr. FO was dying of TB and had only months to live. The clean, dry, mountain air healed him and he lived 37 more years. He hiked regularly, and even climbing Long's Peak (over 14,000ft) 3 times, including at 63 years old.

    By the 1980s, the hotel had fallen into disrepair. The author Stephen King spent one night there in 1984 with his wife. The hotel is said to be very active with paranormal activity. After having nightmares that night in the run down hotel, King went on to write "The Shining". It made him famous, and brought the Stanley Hotel back to life.

    It is a beautiful hotel. After the tour, we shared an affogato on the back porch and took a stroll around the property. It was a lovely way to spend a couple of hours.

    We needed something laid back today to recuperate from our looong hike along the Colorado River yesterday. Mark and Natalie also highly recommended the tour. There are several to choose from, including the Historical tour ( which we did), and the Shining Tour which focuses on the paranormal.
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  • St Catherine of Siena Chapel on the Rock

    July 2 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    On the road between our campground, (USFS Camp Dick), and Estes Park is a beautiful church. We have passed it several times and today we stopped. We spent a few minutes inside, sitting in contemplation. I asked the volunteer if there is an active congregation worshipping here. He said yes, but not a typical one...it is part of a youth camp. So every week the congregation is different!

    Chapel on the Rock

    When you see this church, the first thing that come to mind is Matthew 16:18, "upon this rock I will build my church...". In fact, according to church history, that was the inspiration for the church when it was founded in 1916.

    The church sits on a massive rock reminiscent of any of the rocks in RMNP, and the structure is built out of the same rocks.

    The church is small, simple and classic.

    In 1993 Pope John Paul II visited the church.  He said "upon arriving in Denver I lifted up my eyes toward tge splendor of the Rocky Mountains, whose majesty and power recall that all our help comes from the Lord, who has made heaven and earth (ps 121:1).  He alone is the rock of our salvation (Ps 89:26)."
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