Urgench-Ancient Fortresses-Khiva

Clutching “breakfast boxes” in hand this morning we boarded the 6am Uzbekistan Airways flight to Urgench. The majority of the breakfast box content was ditched at the airport as there were many aluminium trays containing small pieces of “spam”, cheese (but not as we know it), cake plus fruit and copious bottles of water. Not a croissant or a bread roll in sight! Ted and I now feel like camels as we have six bottles between us. On board I had a pleasant and refreshing cup of tea, best drunk, I have discovered, black rather than adding the powdered milk which turns it into sludge.
An hour and a half later, on arrival into Urgench, we board our coach for an hours drive to the ancient palace city of Toprak -Kala. A stop here to climb up, marvel at surroundings and imagine how life was back in the day then back to the coach and onto Ayaz-Kala, one of the more magnificent fortresses in the Khorezm region. It’s purpose was to repel onslaughts from nomadic tribes. Here the task to “climb up” to the fortress was a bit more challenging and not for the faint hearted. Those who ignored the advice to wear “sensible shoes” regretted it! However, nothing ventured, nothing gained so a short trek across the sand followed by a hazardous climb afforded great views of the surrounding district and of the Yurt Camp (with its one lone camel) and car park behind. Worrying I did hear an Australian tourist jovially saying he’d be fine as he had had “three cardiac procedures” that year so his heart should be in tip top shape … 😳
Feeling pleased with our endeavours we returned to the Yurt Camp for lunch which was vegetarian salads, soup, flat breads, a sort of meat stew and water melon served with green tea. Fortunately Ted and I were early to be seated so we chose seats with backs against the walls at the low table. It was a bit challenging to sit opposite with no support or to try cross-legged sitting once over 60s… A short stop to a cotton field to observe and feel the cotton growing there followed. Uzbekistan is the second largest producer of cotton after Egypt. In Soviet times, child labour was used and all the cotton had to be exported to Russia.
And so on to Khiva, an important city on the Silk Road and for the next two nights we stay in the Khiva Orient Star Hotel which is a madrasah. Madrasahs were educational institutions and many, like the Paradors in Spain, have been converted to hotels. This one is recommended for a visit according to a tour member’s guide book. Our room is a bit “cell-like” but on the ground floor leading onto the courtyard. The Wi-Fi only works in the courtyard so the blog has been a challenge! There isn’t a window either but there is an air con system which doesn’t seem to be working at the moment… 😬Read more