• Darren and Janet
helmik. – huhtik. 2023

Morocco and Portugal 2023

63-päiväinen seikkaillu — Darren and Janet Lue lisää
  • Badia Palace and Medina walking tour

    18. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We met our city guide again this morning for a walking tour of the Medina, and a visit to Badia Palace.

    We did the palace first to beat the crowds - a good move, as the queue to buy tickets when we came out was lengthy!

    Completed in 1900, Bahia Palace isn't a royal palace, but was built by Ahmed bin Musa, the Grand Vizier of Morocco - effectively the head public servant, but with direct access and influence over the Sultan, so he was the defacto ruler of the kingdom. Upon the sultan's death Ahmed enthroned the Sultan's third son as the new Sultan, a boy of 14, effectively giving Ahmed complete rule of the country. He built the palace to house his four wives and numerous concubines, and named it after his favourite concubine!

    We then did a walking tour of the Medina for 3 hours, exploring many, many streets we missed the first 3 days we were here, including the metal workers street, leather worker's street and spice market.

    We had lunch at a cafe just off the main square, did a bit more shopping, and returned to our hotel for a few hours by the pool (bit too cold to swim though)
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  • Time travelling around Marrakech

    19. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We had some confusion with the time this morning - the data package on our phone ran out last night, so the time was different to the tablet and must have been wrong... so we thought!

    Turns out Morocco is on permanent daylight savings time, except for Ramadan (which starts Thursday), so the clocks went back an hour this morning. Just that no-one told us... and the tablet was still set to a German time zone 🙄. So, at a cafe for morning tea we were trying to look at people's watches to see what time it really was 🤣. On the upside, we got an extra hour today, and I got to ask all day "old time or new time?"

    We did plenty of walking today to clean up the caches north of the city (16,000 steps, 10.2 km according to the tracker).

    We saw old theatres, new theatres, museums and gardens, including the Yves Saint Laurent Museum and Majorelle Gardens, later owned and restored by Yves Saint Laurent and where his ashes are scattered.

    We arrived back at our hotel around 2pm (new time 😁) for another sit by the pool, then wandered out to a local cafe where we had one of the traditional Moroccan soups for tea.
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  • Road to Essaouira

    20. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We hit the road at 9am for our journey west to Essaouira, a port and resort city on the Atlantic coast. For many years the city was the main port of Morocco, due to it's straight line access to Marrakech.

    On the way we passed the "famous" Moroccan tree climbing goats - they've becomes an Instagram favourite, but the major tour companies refuse to stop at them because of the cruelty issues (the goats don't climb the trees, but are placed up by farmers, balancing on small platforms with no access to water or shade)

    We were dropped at the city gates of Essaouira to walk to our hotel, as there is no vehicle access inside the medina.

    We went for an afternoon walk along the foreshore, from the bustling fishing port in the north, to the luxury resort style hotels as we headed south. The tourist trade now dominates the beach, with numerous offers for us to ride horses, camels or quad bikes on the beach.
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  • Was Mogador, now Essaouira

    21. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We began the day with a local guide and a walking tour of the medina. It has a totally different feel to the medinas in larger cities, far less hustle and bustle, a greater percentage of tourists, and a relaxed holiday vibe.

    The Portuguese seized Essaouira (then known as Mogador) in 1510 and built a fortress. They only lasted 4 years before it was recaptured by the local resistance.

    During the 16th century, powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the city, but it remained a haven for the export of sugar and molasses, and as an anchorage for pirates.

    The present city of Essaouira was built during the mid-eighteenth century by the Moroccan King, in his attempt to open Morocco up to world trade.

    We wandered the medina again in the afternoon, stopping for fresh fish lunch, and a haircut for me at the local barber.
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  • Marrakech, Take 3...

    22. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We had a mid-morning departure from Essaouira for our journey back to Marrakech, arriving at our hotel just after 1.30pm.

    It's the third time we've been to Marrakech this trip, so we knew exactly where to go... or so we thought! We headed by foot to the main square, Jamaa El Fna, which was quiet, before the night time traders set up. We attempted to find the same shop we purchased items from last week, but ended up walking the laneways in vain.

    Fortunately there are dozens of shops selling similar items, so we just had to find what we were after, and do the haggling dance from scratch. As the shop was tiny, I sat outside while Oliver negotiated the price... and despite starting one hundred dirham apart, she got it for her requested price 😁

    Another couple of hours by the pool, dinner at the hotel, and we're ready for a flight to Portugal tomorrow to meet up with Bek and Jake.
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  • North to Lisbon

    23. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We caught a taxi to the airport this morning for our 1.5 hour flight to Lisbon.

    We caught the underground from the airport to our hotel, changing lines mid journey... and a surprisingly good price for an airport train - $2.66 each.

    Our hotel is in a mostly pedestrian area in the centre of town, with trams trundling along many streets and a buzzing outdoor dining and cafe scene.

    We bought a local SIM card and had a walk around the local area, picking up a few caches on the way.

    Bek and Jake arrived late afternoon and we found an outdoor dining area near one of the main squares for dinner.
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  • A night at the opera

    24. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today we walked the streets of Lisbon, finding some caches, climbing hills, and negotiating the slippery slopes of the funicular paths (it drizzled for a while this morning).

    We had no particular plan, but did stop for morning tea tarts, lunch, afternoon tea donuts... then squeezed dinner in before a visit to the opera... and finished with late night coffee and cakes. Thankfully Lisbon has plenty of hills to walk off all the food!

    The buskers in the street outside our hotel are still going strong at 11.30pm to lullaby us off to sleep...
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  • It's all about the tarts

    25. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Day 1 of our Portugal tour, and we met our driver/guide, Rui, for a 9am departure.

    We started the day heading inland along the River Tagus to the site of the 1998 World Expo, next to the Vasco Da Gama Bridge - the second longest bridge in Europe at 12.3km (the longest is the Crimean Bridge in Ukraine).

    Bek and Jake visited the Lisbon Aquarium, while Oliver and I went caching in the area.

    We then drove back into the centre of town for a lookout view over Lisbon, toward Belem, our next destination.

    The Belem District is dedicated to the Portuguese explorers of the 15th and 16th centuries, with the Monument of the Discoveries featuring statues of 33 of their sailors and explorers.

    The Tower of Belem, built in 1514 and one of the few structures unaffected by the 1755 earthquake, is a defensive fortress and ceremonial gateway to the city.

    Belem is also the home of the Portuguese custard tart (Pastel de Nata, originally known as Pastel de Belem). The original bakery has been baking them since 1837 and had quite a queue to purchase some. Fortunately Rui has a tour guide "skip the line pass" and walked straight into the shop to purchase ours 😁

    Lunch was at a local restaurant - grilled octopus, and seafood skewers.

    We then crossed the Tagus River on the 25 April Bridge - if you think it looks familiar, it is based in part on two San Francisco bridges. It's paint is the same colour as the Golden Gate Bridge (International Orange), and the design is similar to the Oakland Bay Bridge, built by the same company.

    On the other side is the Christ the King Monument (completed 1959), inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro after the Cardinal of Lisbon visited that monument in 1934.
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  • Sintra and the Cascais coast

    26. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We had a day trip from Lisbon today, west to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais.

    Sintra is home to Pena Palace, the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family from 1842 until the revolution of 1910 overthrew the monarchy.

    Cabo da Roca is the westernmost point of mainland Europe.

    Cascais is a former fishing village which has transformed into a cosmopolitan resort city, and a favourite day trip location for Lisbon residents.

    For dinner Rui booked us front row seats at a Fado Restaurant. Fado is a traditional Portuguese music style, characterized by "mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fate and melancholy". It is performed by a singer, accompanied by a classical guitar and a Portuguese guitar (12 string, shaped like a mandolin)
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  • Big wave surf capital

    27. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had a late start departing Lisbon this morning, trying to avoid peak hour traffic, and began our journey north visiting the Monastery of Batalha, before continuing on to Nazare.

    Nazare was a quiet fishing village until the world discovered the giant waves generated by a 5km deep undersea canyon just off the coast, and tried to surf them. The world record for big wave surfing was achieved here in 2022 at 86 feet (26.2 metres). No such swell today, just the usual 2-3 metres... so it's not for the faint hearted!

    We had seafood lunch overlooking the cliffs at Nazare before continuing on to Obidos, a walled Roman city and the best example a medieval town in Portugal. The buildings are predominantly painted blue and yellow, and their local speciality is Ginga de Obidos, cherry liquor served in a tiny chocolate cup!

    Our stop for the night is the town of Fatima, one of the largest pilgrimage centres in the world. The town of 13,000 residents receives 8 million visitors a year, with mass performed regularly in the modern church which seats 8,600 and has an area of 40,000 square metres (the 5th largest Catholic Church in the world).
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  • Menu de Almoço in Venice

    28. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    After a quick visit to the Fatima Pilgrimage Centre in the daylight, we headed to Coimbra, a university town and home to the 2nd oldest university in Europe. Coimbra was the capital of Portugal until 1255 and the former royal palace is now part of the university. We toured the impressive library (unfortunately no photos allowed), the former royal palace and the chapel.

    For lunch we travelled to Aveiro, the Venice of Portugal. Many of the restaurants were closed, but we found a cafe in the backstreets where the special of the day (Menu de Almoço) was Spaghetty Chicken Curry - and despite the unusual combination, it was delicious!

    Aveiro has been a centre of salt production since Roman times, and more recently seagrass harvesting in a moliceiro (traditional boat), which are now used for tours of the canals. They are known for their colourful decorative panels with satirical, religious or bawdry images on the bow and stern.

    We made a detour to Costa Nova, known for it's striped houses, before arriving in Porto just after 6pm. As we are staying in the centre of their main pedestrian shopping street, getting near the hotel in a vehicle in peak hour was quite the challenge!
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  • It's all about Harry

    29. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Today was a walking day, the most efficient way to get around the busy and narrow streets of Porto.

    We began by visiting Lello Bookstore, often referred to as the most beautiful bookstore in the world, and one of the inspirations for JK Rowling when she wrote Harry Potter (she lived in Porto from 1991 to 1995).

    The shop has lengthy queues to enter, so to quell demand they charge 5 euro to enter (which comes off any purchase)... but there is still a considerable queue to buy tickets, and a crowd inside all day.

    To save time waiting in the queue, Rui bought our tickets while we visited the nearby Carmo and Carmelitas Churches.

    What looks like the biggest church in the city is actually two churches separated by one of the world’s narrowest houses. The 3-storey house Casa Escondida ("Hidden House") was, according to legend, built so that the two churches would not share a common wall and to prevent any relations between the nuns of Carmelitas and the monks of Carmo.
    Another suggestion is that the building was constructed for purely aesthetic reasons to prevent an unsightly gap between the two churches.

    Near the churches is the Fountain of the Lions (and the model for the Gryffindor mascot in Harry Potter)

    Next stop was to climb the Tower of Clerigos, built in 1754 (and bearing a strong resemblance to the Astronomy Tower in Harry Potter).

    The train station in Porto, São Bento, is quite spectacular - it's UNESCO Heritage listed and has 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting important events in the history of Portugal... and a Platform 9 and 3/4 feel about it!

    We then walked across the Douro River on the Luis 1 Bridge, a double deck metal arch bridge, browsed the market stalls, had some lunch, then returned to Porto via the lower deck... and a number of caches.

    Dinner was a local speciality, suckling pig, at a local restaurant.
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  • Ye olde castle

    30. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Day trip north today to the region where Portugal started as a nation.

    First stop was the city of Braga, third largest city in Portugal and one of the wealthiest cities with a strong commercial and industrial base. We visited the Cathedral of Braga, the first Portuguese cathedral, erected several decades before the founding of the country. It began to be built at the end of the 11th century.

    After a walk around the old city and spacious town square, we headed to the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus (Good Jesus of the Mount), a Catholic shrine in the hills overlooking the city. We walked the 573 steps up the Staircase of the 5 Senses, and rode down in the cable railway, one of only 3 in the world powered by water (each carriage has a water tank, the top car is filled up, and the weight of the water and gravity pulls the other car up the hill, then the process repeats in reverse).

    Our afternoon visit was to Guimarães, the first capital of Portugal. We visited the castle, had lunch in the square and walked the city walls, before heading back to Porto via the coast road.
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  • Walking Porto

    31. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Walking and caching day today. While Bek and Jake did the walking tour of the bookshop etc with Rui, we let the caches be our guide through the city and ended up at Cristal Palace, a Victorian garden with a view over the Douro River. Within the grounds is Super Bock Arena, a sporting and cultural arena built in 1954 (and 7 caches 😁).

    We used the river taxi to cross the Douro in time to meet the others for lunch, at the market in Gaia, which is the name of the city on the south side of the Douro River. The city contains many cellars (locally known as "caves") where port wine is stored and aged, so Oliver and Jake took part in a tasting of 5 varieties of port (neither were won over 🙄).

    We walked back to our hotel via the train station and the flashest McDonald's around, in what was previously an iconic Portuguese 1930's cafe.
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  • Douro Valley

    1. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We woke up to a cloudy, overcast day for our journey east, up the Douro Valley. Amongst low cloud, the first stop was Amarante, where the local market was in full swing.

    We followed the river, with it's steep banks lined with terraced vineyards, and stopped in Pinháo for lunch. There were 2 river cruise boats in dock, but they must have been out wine tasting, as the small town was very quiet.

    Rui made some calls to fit us in for a tasting at a winery that made table wines as well as port (many only make port) and we visited Quinta do Bomfim for a very relaxing afternoon of tasting on their wisteria covered pergola overlooking the Douro River.

    Accommodation tonight is in Peso da Régua where we had dinner at a non-touristy restaurant (ie not on the waterfront). The staff spoke no English (the same amount as our Portuguese), so we had much laughter communicating our order. The staff always bring out olives and bread at the start of the meal - they are not complimentary, but added to the bill unless you send them back - and tonight we also received a mystery bowl... of chicken gizzards. And they were quite tasty!
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  • No snow today

    2. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We continued our journey down the eastern side of the country with a visit to Lamego. We viewed the 660 monastery access steps from the bottom, but didn't climb them this time.

    Morning tea was in Trancoso before walking through the walled city and along some sections of the 13th century walls. Being a Sunday, most of the shops were closed and the streets were eerily deserted.

    The journey to Seia took us across Stella da Estrella, the highest mountain in mainland Portugal - an unusual summit as it is accessible by a paved road. The highest point is not a distinctive mountain summit, but rather the highest point on a plateau, and is known as Torre ("Tower" in English). In winter the area is Portugal's only ski resort, but today was crisp and clear with good views in all directions.

    In Saia we toured the National Bread Museum, unsurprisingly, the largest of its type in the world!

    Our accommodation tonight is on the outskirts of Covilha, with views over the entire city... and we're the only guests staying in the hotel tonight.
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  • Historic Villages

    3. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We continued our tour of the Historic Villages of Portugal, a group of 12 villages/human settlements classified as important to the history of Portugal.

    The first stop today was Belmonte, birthplace of Pedro Cabral, the Portuguese navigator regarded as the European discoverer of Brazil. He was the first person recorded to have visited 4 continents, during his voyage of 1500.
    The castle was closed today, so after a quick walk around town, we continued on to Centrum Cellas, a first century Roman tower on the outskirts of town, whose original use is still being debated.

    Second Historic Village of the day was Sortelha, a beautifully restored walled city and castle. Again, most shops were closed and only a handful tourists were wandering around.

    Next stop, Monsanto, awarded the title "Most Portuguese village in Portugal" in 1938. Not sure how they came to that conclusion... there's not a lot of other villages built around giant granite boulders. It's an otherworldly experience, with rocks forming the walls or roof of many of the houses, and a castle overlooking the whole town. It was also used as a filming location for Game of Thrones.

    At the base of Monsanto Castle is the Necropolis of São Miguel, a Roman burial ground where the bodies were buried in human shaped carvings in the stone. The bodies and lids are long gone, but they have so far discovered 80 tombs in the area.

    Our accommodation tonight is in Marvão, a city fully encircled by defensive walls, perched atop a rocky outcrop. Being only a few kilometres from Spain, it has been a defensive stronghold since the 8th Century.
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  • Impromptu visit to Spain

    4. huhtikuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As we were travelling so close to Spain we made the short detour to the city of Badajoz. We walked a section of the city walls, found a couple caches and had lunch before heading back to Portugal.

  • Corker of a day

    4. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We started the day with a visit to the city of Elvas, home to a large Bastion Fort, or Star Fort, so named because of it's shape.

    It also has the Amoreira Aqueduct which is 6 kilometres long and still supplies the city with pure water. Construction was completed in 1622.

    We then made a quick visit to Spain , see separate post.

    We have been seeing many cork trees on the roadsides, and this afternoon had the opportunity to visit a working cork factory. The trees are harvested every 9 years, with the best cork not produced until the tree is around 40 years old. The cork grows on the outside of the bark, so removing it doesn't harm the tree.

    We finished the day at Evora, whose roots go back to the Roman Empire. The Historic Center of Évora, made up of narrow alleyways, courtyards and squares, is UNESCO Heritage listed, and circled by over 3km of medieval walls.
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  • Bones and stones

    5. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    What better way to start the day than a visit to the Royal Church of St. Francis in Évora, best known for its ghoulish Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), where walls and pillars are lined with human skulls and bones. It was built in the 16th century by monks who wished to communicate the message of the transitory nature of life. Over the door is a painted message that reminds visitors of their own mortality: Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos: "Our bones that are here await yours!"
    There is an estimated 5,000 skeletons decorating the chapel.

    We detoured onto the dirt roads to visit The Cromlech of Almendres, a circle of prehistoric stones with 95 stone monoliths. It was discovered in 1964 during mapping work for the Geological Map of Portugal. The vegetation was cleared and some pieces of pottery and a polished stone axe were discovered at the site. While we were there we placed a cache, our first overseas! Rui has kindly agreed to do any required maintenance on his regular visits to the site.

    Next stop was the picturesque village of Monsaraz, built on top of a hill that overlooks the right bank of the Guadiana River which forms the border between Portugal and Spain. The village has a maze of narrow streets and small flower-filled squares, 750 inhabitants and six churches, as well as an impressive castle (no visit for us this time).

    Monsaraz overlooks Lake Alqueva, the largest artificial lake in Europe. We crossed the main dam wall (458m long, 96m high) before starting on the Portuguese rollercoaster - 1 hour of bumpy roads followed by and hour of windy roads. We were certainly shaken and stirred by the time we arrived in Tavira, our stop for the night.

    Tavira is a small city on the Algarve coast, particularly popular with English tourists. We had time for a walk around town before dinner outdoors on the promenade.
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  • Algarve coast

    6. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The Algarve region covers the southern coast of Portugal and is home to 25 resort towns and countless beaches.

    It is the Portuguese regions with the highest number of foreign residents, the highest percentage being British

    We travelled today from the eastern end to the western end, first stop Olhão, a former fishing village, now low key tourist resort.

    The largest city in Algarve is Portimão, which has become a popular holiday destination, mainly due to the famous Praia da Rocha (Stone Beach), which owes its name to the rocky outcrops found on the beach. It is one of the most famous in the Algarve, if not the whole country, and fills with tourists from all over the world every summer.

    We finished the day at Lagos, a highrise resort city, and our stop for the night.
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  • Beaches to Lisbon

    7. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our final day with Rui, and we had a 300km/4.5 hour journey back to Lisbon, via the scenic coast road.

    First stop was the Cape of Saint Vincent and The Fortress of Sagres, on the most south westerly point of continental Europe. A noticeable line is visible where the cold waters of the Atlantic meet the warm water of the Mediterranean. It is also home to one of the brightest lighthouses in the world, its light visible up to 60km away.

    Lunch stop was the picturesque beach, Praia de Odeceixe (pronounced o-de-say-shu).

    Our last stop of the day was Pessegueiro Fort and nearby Pessegueiro Island (Peach Tree Fort/Island). The island also has an unfinished fort, and evidence of occupation dating back to 200BC. It was home to a small fishing centre, and has recently discovered remains of salting tanks. As there are no peach trees on the island, it is believed the fishing activities gave the island its name as a mistranslation of the Latin "piscatorius" (fisherman). Or perhaps it's the medieval French, where "Pêche" (peach) and "pêche" (fishing) are still homophones, as we saw in Morocco where Peach Juice was mistranslated as Fishing Juice!

    The cache of the day was in the quarry where rock for Pessegueiro Fort was sourced, while trying to avoid the stinging nettles which covered the passages. Extraction was done by bending a vine into a cradle and lifting it without setting foot on the ground.

    The remainder of the journey was on motorways and we arrived in Lisbon at 5.30pm for a night in an airport hotel before our flight to Madeira tomorrow.
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  • Lisbon to Madeira

    8. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had a mid morning flight from Lisbon to Funchal, the capital of Madeira.

    Funchal Airport has a reputation as one of the most difficult approaches in the world, mainly due to the unpredictable winds off the nearby mountains. The runway was also very narrow because of the limited space, so they have now widened the runway with pylons built over the sea. But ours was a smooth, textbook landing.

    Our accommodation wasn't available until 3pm, so we dropped our bags, had some lunch in the square outside our apartment, and went for a walk around the foreshore. There was only 2 cruise ships docked today, but they have had up to 15 (to watch the New Year's Eve fireworks display last year).

    After a visit to the supermarket for supplies, Oliver and I went for a walk back to the foreshore to attend a geocaching event, then a quick walk around the old town before a much anticipated quiet night in after our busy last few weeks.
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  • Down the waterfront with CR7

    9. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We had a sleep-in this morning, the first day in 7 weeks we haven't set an alarm. After a leisurely breakfast we headed out for a walk around the backstreets.

    Being Easter Sunday there wasn't much open, but after a quick visit to church, we found a cafe to stop for lunch (black scabbardfish rolls).

    Our original plan was to catch the cablecar up the mountain behind town, and ride a traditional toboggan part way down. That was stymied when we got to the front of the ticket line and saw a notice that the toboggans don't run on Sundays.

    Change of plan was to visit the waterfront near the Cristiano Ronaldo statue, museum and hotel - they certainly are proud of their favourite son in this town!

    We tried to go down the main cruise ship dock (to get a cache, of course), but were blocked by security, so we rested a while and watched the ferry from Porto Santo dock and unload (Porto Santo is the second largest island in the Madeira Island group - Christopher Columbus lived on Porto Santo briefly, having married one of the daughters of Bartolomeu Perestrelo, one of the navigators who discovered Madeira).

    We meandered back to our apartment via Santa Catarina Park, and had favourite Portuguese dinner in-house - toasted sheep's cheese and black pork neck sandwiches.
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  • Nuns, Winston, Poncha and Nikita

    10. huhtikuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We joined a half day tour to the Valley of the Nuns today, only 8km as the crow flies, but 17km by road from Funchal, and at an altitude of 1,095m. The road out of Funchal is very steep and windy and the views spectacular. The south coast is thick with eucalyptus trees... but some history fun-facts first...

    Madeira Island was discovered in 1419 by the Portuguese navigators João Gonçalves Zarco, Tristão Vaz Teixeira, and Bartolomeu Perestrelo. It was uninhabited at the time. Due to the number of trees, they named the island "Isla de Madeira" (Island of Wood).

    Most of the islands' trees were cut for timber by early settlers. In the 16th and 17th centuries the southern side of Madeira was converted to sugarcane plantations, and Eucalyptus was also planted extensively, displacing native species.

    We began our day with a visit to a viewpoint over the Valley of the Nuns, which was the best way to see the village (named when Nuns fled there for just 3 days in the 1500's fleeing a pirate attack in Funchal... so there is no convent and no Nuns!

    On the way back to Funchal (the name Funchal derives from the plant Foeniculum Vulgare, the fennel plant, prominent in the early regional cuisine and confectionery), we stopped in at Câmara de Lobos, a fishing village famous for black scabbardfish and Winston Churchill's visit in 1950 where he painted landscapes in his leisure time.

    In the afternoon we partook in some traditional Madeiran drinks - Poncha, made with sugarcane rum, honey, sugar, and fruit juice, and
    Nikita, originally from Câmara de Lobos, consisting of pineapple ice cream, pineapple juice, and either white beer or white wine. It was created in 1985 by a man called Marcelino, who named it after his favourite Elton John song.
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