Copenhagen, Berlin, & Reykjavik Read more
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  • Day 1

    Copenhagen

    May 21 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    From the official website of Denmark:

    “Once we were brutal Vikings. Now we are one of the world's most peaceful societies. Welcome to Denmark.”

    It continues in the summary of Danish history:

    “They continued to plunder and steal, along with more peaceful activities such as trading precious metals, textiles, glassware, jewellery, and fur. On occasion, they also bought and sold European slaves.”

    This is a lesson in the evolution of an entire people. I’ll let you know how it goes.
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  • Day 2

    Malmö

    May 22 in Sweden ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

    Malmö, Sweden’s Jersey City, lies just across the bridge from Copenhagen. It’s in the middle of a major revival since the bridge was built. There is so much new construction — high rises, parks, apartment buildings. One significant addition is the Turning Torso which is a high rise residential building designed by Santiago Calatrava, the famous Spanish architect who built New York’s Oculus. This all surrounds the historic downtown which has had a resurgence. Malmö has also had a major influx of immigrants, which makes it very multicultural, however, this also came with a major rise in crime which is unusual for Sweden. Malmö ranks second only to Naples in Western Europe according to the recent crime index. I was pleasantly surprised though. It’s a nice city.Read more

  • Day 3

    Copenhagen — Kastellet

    May 23 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    In 1959 the founders of Häagen-Dazs chose their company’s name (totally made up) to honor the Danish resistance movement during WWII, particularly for their attempts to aid Jews in Denmark and get them to safety in Sweden. The Danish Resistance Museum tells the story of the Danes during their five years of Nazi occupation. The curators of this museum are brilliant. First of all, the museum is underground. As you begin, you are given an audio guide which allows you to listen to the stories of five people in Copenhagen who each held a different political point of view. It starts with rumors of a German invasion, then the government’s accommodation of the invaders, then rising resistance, acts of sabotage, counter-resistance, and finally the liberation of Denmark. They have a station where you decipher a coded German message, and one where you act as a Nazi sympathizer and tap into phone calls to gain information on potential saboteurs. In the end, you find out what happened to the five characters you followed in the tour. I spent more than two hours here, and felt like I had just watched an incredible film. This museum blew my mind. Their choice to retell this story without a political bias and to courageously retell it as a people’s history is powerful. It attempts to put you in the shoes of the people under occupation in a world where it looks like Germany will likely win the war and no one is coming to help you. With the luxury of hindsight, it’s easy for us to believe we understand what we would do under those circumstances. This museum makes you feel the chaos, uncertainty, and the struggle to survive. In doing so, it also highlights the bravery required to resist. Only a small section was about Danish fishermen sailing overnight to Sweden to transport Jews to safety, which is an amazing story by itself, however, this museum is about all Danes, regardless of religion or political views. It’s about holding on to a free society in general and how to preserve it. It’s about watching your country being invaded by an aggressor and trusting your government when they tell you to remain calm and not fight back. It would have been easy for Denmark to take only the accolades — the well-deserved Häagen-Dazs tributes — but here they chose to tell the whole story. Most Danes did not resist the Nazis and some of those Danish fishermen only smuggled out refugees for the money. It’s a very complicated period of history, and, though it has a happy ending, people made choices based on their own survival instincts. If there is one consensus in the museum about resistance, it seems to be that we need to monitor our government closely before things go too far — before the opposition is vilified, before the media becomes a propaganda machine, before the police are told to stand down rather than protect citizens, before guns are confiscated, and before political opponents are rounded up and imprisoned on trumped up charges. It’s a wake up call for all citizens of a democracy. Looking back is easy. It’s harder to see it while it’s happening around you.Read more

  • Day 4

    Copenhagen — Nyhavn

    May 24 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Copenhagen is a beautiful city. It has a lot in common with Amsterdam — canals, bicycles, beautiful architecture, and a high standard of living. As I got to the airport, the woman checking in in front of me was from The Netherlands and she was saying to the Danish airline employee how similar the Dutch and the Danes are. “Not like the Germans though,” she insisted. English is the other thing they have in common. Everyone speaks it well. In the center of the city they lead with English when greeting people. That’s got to be weird. I enjoyed my days in Copenhagen. The people were great. There’s a bit of a multicultural feel to it, but not as much as Amsterdam. They had more bikes than Amsterdam though. Rush hour was amazing to watch in the city center. I was particularly impressed today because the weather was bad, but the bikes were still out in droves.Read more

  • Day 5

    Berlin — Mitte

    May 25 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    I took a bus tour of Berlin today and then hopped off at Checkpoint Charlie. It’s a strange historical site. One couple was in line to take their Christmas card photo. Others were buying communist memorabilia. There’s a memorial nearby which solemnly tells the story of hundreds who died trying to escape to freedom. A block away there’s an escape room to attract tourists. An escape room. One of the preserved sections of the wall had the word “madness” in graffiti that someone had written on the East Berlin side long ago. Imagine being liberated from the Nazi regime and then to find yourself on the communist side of that wall. One elderly man was speaking to a group of tourists. “We hated the wall in Berlin. It separated us from our friends and family. To us it was like a prison wall.” He looked like he would have been high school age when the wall went up. It must be so hard for him to explain how important this was to people who barely remember the Cold War. I thought back to when I was teaching European geography in 1989. One student asked why West and East Germany were both colored in pink on the globe even though they were separate countries. My explanation was that our globes were 20 years old. They were from a time when people believed Germany might reunite so the map makers must have been hopeful it would one day happen, but chances of that happening seemed very slim. A month later the wall came down, and within a year Germany was reunified. I remember that student bringing me a clipping from the paper the day it was announced that East and West Germany were now one. He happily reported that he had told his parents, “Mr. Pisa’s globe was right!”Read more

  • Day 6

    Berlin — Friedrichshain

    May 26 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    The East Side Gallery had the exhibit I was looking for. Their multimedia presentation inside gives you a timeline of events from 1945 to 1989. They use interviews with East German guards and escapees — some successful and some who failed and were imprisoned. News reels bring you through the years with speeches from Kennedy, Reagan, Gorbachev, and Kohl. They present you with a barrage of video from the days leading up to the wall coming down, and then three glorious rooms devoted to the November day when the people flooded the Brandenburg Gate. Then you take a walk along a stretch of wall they have preserved which has been transformed by artists into a series of murals. It sits right along the Spree river that cuts through the city and it has a park-like setting. It was packed with people. Clearly one of Berlin’s biggest attractions. I think Berlin should be a celebration, and not just a memorial, and this place captures that feeling.Read more

  • Day 6

    Berlin — Tiergarten

    May 26 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Berlin’s Tiergarten is a beautiful park directly behind the Brandenburg Gate. It’s also featured in a very sweet Rufus Wainwright song. I was happy to walk Janice through it virtually:

    https://youtube.com/shorts/2BhpsB3J75g?si=Td3Gp…
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