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Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland
  • Lars Grünig
  • Sylvie Grünig
  • Lars Grünig
  • Sylvie Grünig

Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

A 20-day adventure by Lars & Sylvie Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 18, 2024
    Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    From Switzerland to Ireland

    May 18, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Our annual family holiday started off with a drive from our home in Switzerland, bound for the emerald isles of Ireland. Accompanied by our two dogs Awen and Nessy, our two adventurous Border Collies, our journey was set to be as scenic as it was memorable.

    Our first major stop was the majestic Château de Chambord in France. Nestled in the Loire Valley, this Renaissance marvel is not just a castle but a masterpiece of French architecture, boasting a complex roofscape and distinctive French Renaissance layout. We stayed at a charming small hotel right on the property, which felt like stepping back in time. The grounds offered plenty of space for Awen and Nessy to explore, while we captured the castle's grandeur in our photographs, each angle revealing more of its historical splendor.

    As we continued our journey towards the coast, we reached the iconic Mont St. Michel. Timing could not have been more dramatic; a thunderstorm rolled in, casting a moody veil over this medieval sanctuary. The ominous clouds and occasional lightning strikes created a perfect backdrop for some truly atmospheric shots of the towering abbey, isolated by the tidal bay.

    Our last stop in France was Cherbourg, where we boarded the ferry to Ireland. Thankfully, the ferry offered a pet-friendly cabin, allowing us to stay with our dogs throughout the crossing. Awen and Nessy seemed to enjoy the boat ride, their noses twitching with the salty sea breeze as we watched the French coast slowly fade away.    Read more

  • Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    Ardmore cliff

    May 21, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After a peaceful ferry ride from Cherbourg, we finally set foot on the lush, green lands of Ireland. The fresh, balmy air was a refreshing welcome as we disembarked in Rosslare and made our way to our first stop in the Waterford area.

    We settled into a quaint cottage, a perfect blend of rustic charm and comfort, setting the tone for what I hope will be a rejuvenating stay. Keen to stretch our legs after the journey, we decided to explore the Ardmore Cliff Walk. This scenic trail, known for its breathtaking views of the Atlantic, was an ideal introduction to the natural beauty of Ireland.

    The walk was a delightful mix of sunshine and brief showers—a typical Irish weather palette—that painted the cliffs and waves in vibrant hues. The trail, taking about an hour, was just right for us and the dogs, with plenty of interesting smells and sights to keep Awen and Nessy busy and thrilled. The ocean, vast and endless, roared beside us as we trekked the well-trodden path, each turn offering a new vista more stunning than the last.

    Returning to our cottage, we took the evening to relax and truly settle into the Irish pace of life. A glass of fine Irish whiskey was the perfect end to our day, warming us as we lounged by the fireplace, recounting our adventures and planning the days to come.    Read more

  • Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    Copper Coast and Mahon Falls

    May 22, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today's adventure took us along the stunning Copper Coast, a stretch of road renowned for its rugged beauty and historical significance in Ireland’s mining heritage. The coastal route, with its dramatic cliffs and panoramic views of the Atlantic, was a feast for the senses.

    Our first stop was at Stradbally Cove, where the dogs could barely contain their excitement, dashing across the sand and chasing the waves that gently lapped at the shore. The serenity of the empty beach was a perfect start to the day. Moving on, we visited Ballyvooney Cove, where the striking sea stacks and rocky formations provided a dramatic backdrop for our morning.

    At Ballydwan Beach, the vivid blues and greens of the ocean contrasted beautifully with the rugged coastline. The sound of the waves and the salty air was invigorating. Our final beach stop was Bunmahon Beach, where Awen and Nessy continued their frolic, playing joyously around the water's edge, embodying the freedom and spirit of our coastal journey.

    In the early afternoon we headed inland to Mahon Falls, an impressive waterfall set in a deep valley within the Comeragh Mountains. The walk to the falls was windy, adding a brisk pace to our stride as we ascended the path that led to the cascade. The sight of the water plummeting down the rugged cliffs into the pool below was mesmerizing. Despite the wind, the walk was invigorating, wrapping us in the raw beauty of Ireland’s natural landscapes.    Read more

  • Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    Journey to Kerry and Dingle Peninsula

    May 23, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Today marked our departure from the beautiful Waterford area as we set our sights on the majestic landscapes of County Kerry. Our journey was leisurely, with several stops along the way to appreciate the breathtaking Irish countryside and to stretch our legs—and paws—on some scenic walks.

    One of our notable stops was at Ross Castle, located in the heart of Killarney National Park. This historic castle, perched on the edge of Lough Leane, provided a perfect backdrop for a morning stroll. The park's extensive network of trails and the tranquil waters of the lake made for a serene setting, where the echoes of history seemed to blend seamlessly with the natural beauty.

    We also made a stop at Inch Beach, a stunning stretch of sand that juts out into the sea, offering panoramic views and a sense of seclusion that is hard to find. The dogs had a great time here, running freely along the water's edge, their joyful antics a delightful contrast to the calm expanse of the ocean.

    Continuing our drive, we reached Dunquin on the Dingle Peninsula by late afternoon. Our accommodation here boasted stunning views that were truly a sight to behold. The rugged cliffs and the vast ocean stretched out before us, painting a picture of wild, untouched Ireland that one can only dream of.

    The Dingle Peninsula is famed for its rich cultural heritage and dramatic landscapes, and as we settled in for the evening, we looked forward to exploring more of this enchanting area. The peace and beauty of Dunquin provided a perfect end to a day filled with exploration and discovery.    Read more

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    Dunquin Pier

    May 23, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Dunquin, with its dramatic coastline and iconic pier, has long been a dream destination for photographers and nature lovers alike. The reason for our stay here was clear—to capture the stunning beauty of Dunquin Pier, a location that seems to blend the wild spirit of the Atlantic with the timeless charm of Ireland.

    The pier itself is uniquely picturesque, with a narrow, winding path that descends steeply into the sea, framed by rugged cliffs on either side. The views from here are spectacular, with the Blasket Islands rising out of the mist in the distance, adding an almost mystical quality to the landscape.    Read more

  • Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    Day Trip to Blasket Island

    May 24, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Our adventure today took us from the rugged cliffs of Dunquin to the historic and enchanting Blasket Islands. The journey itself was an adventure, especially with Awen and Nessy, who had to navigate not only a ferry ride but also a transfer to a zodiac. Their previous training on stand-up paddleboards and kayaks came in handy, and they managed the transitions like seasoned travelers.

    The Blasket Islands, once home to a vibrant community until the mid-20th century, are now uninhabited but remain steeped in history and rich in wildlife. As we explored the island, the highlight was undoubtedly spotting a group of seals basking in the sunshine. Their playful nature and curious eyes added a special touch to our visit, making our trip even more memorable.

    Exploring the island was a delight. With its lush greenery and the ruins of old stone cottages, the island offered a poignant glimpse into a past way of life, isolated yet full of community and stories. The sunny weather was perfect for our day of exploration, allowing us to see the island in its most flattering light and to capture some beautiful photos.

    After a full day of adventure and exploration, we headed back to the mainland. Tired but fulfilled, we ended our day with a classic seaside dinner—fish and chips. It was the perfect way to reflect on our experiences while enjoying the fresh, salty air and the sound of the sea.    Read more

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    A rainy day in Dingle

    May 25, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    This morning we awoke to the gentle patter of rain, a common yet always charming aspect of the Irish climate. Despite the damp conditions, it provided a fresh, misty backdrop that enhanced the lush landscapes, giving me a chance to capture some moody photographs.

    Undeterred by the weather, we ventured into the town of Dingular—a vibrant and picturesque spot known for its colorful streets, rich history, and welcoming atmosphere. Dingle is a cultural hub on the peninsula, offering a taste of local life, music, and culinary delights. We indulged in some local cuisine, enjoying hearty Irish dishes that warmed us up from the inside out.

    As the day progressed, the clouds began to part, hinting at the possibility of a clearer evening. We decided to head to Clogher Head, hoping to catch the sunset. Our patience was rewarded with a spectacular sunsets.

    The dogs, Awen and Nessy, had a fantastic time too, playing on the shore as we watched the day end with a breathtaking display. The contrast between the morning's moody tones and the evening's vibrant colors was a perfect metaphor for the unpredictable beauty of Ireland.    Read more

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    Cliffs of Moher

    May 26, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Today, our journey took us from the stunning vistas of the Dingle Peninsula to the breathtaking heights of the Cliffs of Moher, along one of Ireland's most scenic routes. We began our day ascending through Conor Pass, the highest mountain pass in Ireland.

    Following the Wild Atlantic Way northward, we were treated to spectacular coastal scenery. Our route took us past the lesser-known but equally impressive Kilkee Cliffs. Here, the dramatic cliff faces and crashing waves provided a perfect spot for a mid-journey break and some memorable photos.

    The highlight of our day was undoubtedly our visit to the Cliffs of Moher. Towering over 220m above the Atlantic Ocean, these cliffs are one of Ireland's most iconic landscapes. Walking along the cliff edge, with views stretching out to the horizon, was an unforgettable experience. Awen and Nessy seemed to enjoy the fresh sea breeze, staying safely by our side as we took in the stunning vistas.

    After a day filled with natural wonders, we indulged in some of the local cuisine. Fresh seafood and vegetables from the region provided a delicious and satisfying end to our day. The flavors were a perfect complement to the sea air and the day's adventures.    Read more

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    From the Burren to Connemara

    May 27, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our journey today took us from Doolin, weaving through the unique limestone landscape of the Burren, and onward to the vibrant city of Galway before reaching the wild and rugged beauty of Connemara National Park.

    Starting the day in the Burren, an area renowned for its karst landscape, we were struck by the stark beauty of the terrain, where rock formations and rare flora create a moonscape unlike any other in Ireland. The drive through this region is always an intriguing experience, with its ancient dolmens and megalithic tombs dotting the landscape, a testament to the area's rich archaeological history.

    Upon reaching Galway, we explored the old town, wandering down Latin Street, which pulses with the vibrant energy of street performers, bustling cafes, and eclectic shops. The city's blend of historic charm and contemporary culture made for a delightful stop, giving us a taste of urban Irish life amid our nature-focused travels.

    From Galway, we continued to Connemara National Park, a place of wild beauty where the landscapes are painted with broad strokes of mountains, bogs, and woodlands. Here, we enjoyed a hike through the park, embracing the serene views and the tranquility that only such remote places can offer. Awen and Nessy thrived on the open trails, their spirits high with the freedom to roam.

    Finally, we arrived near Newport in County Mayo, where we'll be based for the next few days. The area around Newport is known for its scenic beauty and peaceful atmosphere, making it a perfect place to rest and recharge after a day filled with diverse experiences.    Read more

  • Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    A rainy day in Newport

    May 28, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Despite the rain that characterizes much of Irish weather, our spirits remained undampened as we set out to explore more of County Mayo's lesser-known gems. The drizzle added a mystical quality to the landscape, enhancing the deep greens and the soft mist that seemed to blanket everything in a gentle hush.

    Our first stop was the area around Lackakeely. Even under the gray skies, the land here was lush and vibrant, offering picturesque views and a peaceful solitude that felt almost otherworldly. The rain brought out the rich aromas of the earth and vegetation, creating an immersive sensory experience as we explored the area.

    Next, we ventured to Betra Beach. The rainy weather meant we had the beach mostly to ourselves, apart from a few other hardy souls braving the elements. The rough sea under the stormy sky was a magnificent sight, and the dogs, Awen and Nessy, seemed to revel in the brisk air and open space, undeterred by the wet conditions.

    Lastly, we returned to Newport, a charming town that served as a warm refuge from the relentless rain. Here, we took the opportunity to delve into some local cuisine, finding comfort in warm dishes that seemed to embody the heartiness of Irish cooking. The welcoming atmosphere of the town, combined with the friendly locals, made it an ideal spot to wind down and reflect on our day's adventures.

    Despite the weather, our exploration today reminded us that there is beauty and adventure to be found in every kind of day, rain or shine. As we settled in for the evening, we looked forward to what tomorrow might bring, rain or no rain.    Read more

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    Exploring Achill Island's Natural Beauty

    May 29, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Our adventure today took us to the stunning Achill Island, a jewel off the coast of County Mayo, known for its spectacular beaches, dramatic cliffs, and vibrant wildlife. The complete coastal road around the island offered breathtaking views and a chance to truly immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of this special place.

    As we drove around the island, we were treated to scenes of pristine beaches where the Atlantic's wild waves meet fine, sandy shores. The contrast of the blue sea with the lush greenery of the land was striking. The cliffs of Achill, towering and majestic, provided panoramic views of the ocean, a testament to the island's rugged beauty. Amidst the natural landscape, bursts of color from the rhododendron bushes added a vibrant splash to our scenic drive.

    One of the day's unique experiences was indulging in a traditional seaweed bath, a soothing and rejuvenating treat that left us feeling refreshed and connected to the local customs. The brave among us also took a dip in the chilling sea—freezing but invigorating, especially under the sunny sky that graced our day.

    Achill Island also holds a special allure for film enthusiasts, having served as one of the filming locations for the movie "The Banshees of Inisherin." We visited several spots that featured in the film, which added an exciting layer of recognition and connection to our exploration.    Read more

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    North Mayo Circle

    May 30, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Our exploration of North Mayo today took us on a spectacular circuit, starting with the historic Blacksod Lighthouse, then meandering through the stunning coastal landscapes of Elly Bay and Portaclay, and concluding at the remarkable Downpatrick Head.

    Blacksod Lighthouse served as our first stop. Positioned at the tip of the Mullet Peninsula, this lighthouse has played a pivotal role in maritime history and is known for its crucial weather forecast, which influenced the timing of the D-Day landings in 1944. Its stark white structure against the backdrop of the wild Atlantic Ocean made for a striking and somewhat solemn start to our day.

    Next, we visited Elly Bay, renowned for its beautiful beach and tranquil waters, a stark contrast to the ruggedness of other coastal areas. The bay, with its gentle waves and fine sand, was a serene spot for a leisurely walk, with Awen and Nessy enjoying the open space to run and play freely.

    Our journey continued to the Portaclay Cliff Walk, where the landscapes turned dramatically rugged again, offering breathtaking views of the cliffs diving into the ocean below. The path, though exposed, provided a thrilling sense of adventure as we navigated along the edge, with panoramic vistas that stretched out into the infinite blue.

    The culmination of our day was at Downpatrick Head, a truly awe-inspiring location. The standout feature here is Dun Briste, an imposing sea stack that rises majestically from the sea, separated from the mainland by centuries of erosion. The myths and history enveloping this spot, combined with its natural beauty, made it an unforgettable end to our day’s adventures.

    Each site today brought with it a unique story and a different perspective of Ireland’s natural majesty. As we returned to our accommodation, our hearts and cameras full of the day's images, we reflected on the diverse and dynamic character of Ireland that continues to captivate and enchant.    Read more

  • Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland

    Scenic Journey to County Donegal

    May 31, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Our journey today led us into the stunning landscapes of County Donegal, a region famed for its rugged beauty and pristine beaches. Before reaching our final destination, we made memorable stops at Streedagh Beach, Mullaghmore Head, Fintra Beach, and the majestic Slieve League cliffs.

    Streedagh Beach was our first stop, a place of dramatic historical significance as well as natural beauty. Known for the Spanish Armada shipwrecks off its coast, the long, sandy beach was an ideal location for a peaceful walk under the morning sun. The expansive shoreline, backed by dunes and framed by distant mountains, was a breathtaking sight.

    Next, we visited Mullaghmore Head, a short drive away, famous for its big wave surfing and spectacular coastal views. The headland offers a stunning perspective on the wild Atlantic, with Classiebawn Castle overlooking the ocean—a picturesque setting that feels like stepping into a postcard.

    Continuing our journey, we stopped for a swim at Fintra Beach, another beautiful strand renowned for its golden sands and clear, turquoise waters. Despite the brisk temperature of the sea, the sunny weather made for a refreshing dip.

    The highlight of the day was our hike at the Slieve League Cliffs. Some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe, they offer jaw-dropping views that are arguably among the best in Ireland. The walking paths around the cliffs provided us with sweeping vistas of the Atlantic Ocean and the rugged coastline below, a truly spectacular sight that underscored the raw beauty of Donegal.

    We ended our day by arriving at a charming and cozy cottage by the sea in Dooey, which promised a restful base for our explorations in the area. The cottage's quaintness, coupled with its proximity to the sea, made it a perfect retreat to relax and recount the day's adventures.

    As we settled in for the evening, the sounds of the sea were a soothing backdrop, reminding us of the endless beauty that surrounds us here in Donegal.    Read more

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    From Falcarragh to Fanad Head

    June 1, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today's early start rewarded us with a full day of adventure and exploration across the northern reaches of County Donegal, a region celebrated for its stunning beaches, historical sites, and dramatic coastal landscapes.

    Our day began at Falcarragh Beach, where the morning sun and gentle waves welcomed us for a refreshing beach walk. The wide, sandy stretch was peaceful and invigorating, setting a serene tone for the day.

    From there, we traveled to Horn Head, making a worthwhile detour to visit Doe Castle. Perched on a promontory with water on three sides, Doe Castle is steeped in history and offers picturesque views of the surrounding waters. The castle's serene setting and robust architecture provided a fascinating glimpse into Ireland's storied past.

    Continuing our journey, we embarked on a scenic drive around the Rosguill Peninsula. This lesser-known drive rivals the more famous routes in Ireland for its sheer beauty and tranquility. The winding roads offered panoramic views of the rugged coastline, with lush greenery and the expansive ocean stretching out before us.

    The day's highlight was our visit to Fanad Head Lighthouse. Situated at the northern tip of the Fanad Peninsula, the lighthouse stands as a sentinel over the Atlantic, its presence both imposing and reassuring. The surrounding cliffs and the lighthouse itself are not only a beacon for ships but also a magnet for photographers and nature lovers.

    Before concluding our day, we made a stop at Portsalon Beach for a quick dip. Recognized as one of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland, its fine sandy shores and crystal-clear waters were the perfect way to cool down after a day filled with exploration.

    Exhausted yet fulfilled, we returned to our cottage in Dooey, reflecting on the day's journey through some of the most beautiful landscapes Donegal has to offer. As we settled in for the evening, the warm memories of sunlit shores and historic sites accompanied our thoughts, rounding off another perfect day in Ireland.    Read more

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    Dooey Beach and Assaranca Waterfall

    June 2, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After witnessing a spectacular sunset yesterday, today we awoke to the more familiar rain-sprinkled landscape of Donegal. Embracing the Irish weather, we decided to enjoy a more relaxed pace and started our day with a long, soothing stroll along Dooey Beach. The rain brought a fresh, crisp quality to the air, making our walk along the sandy stretch particularly invigorating, with the waves providing a rhythmic soundtrack to our reflections.

    As the day progressed and we gained a brief respite from the rain, we ventured to explore more of Donegal’s natural wonders. Our first stop was the Assaranca Waterfall, a hidden gem not far from Ardara. The waterfall, especially lively after the recent rains, cascaded beautifully into a pool below, surrounded by lush greenery that seemed even more vibrant under the overcast sky.

    Next, we made our way to Maghera Beach, renowned for its extensive system of sea caves accessible at low tide. The dramatic coastline, coupled with the caves, offered an almost otherworldly experience as we explored the cavernous spaces, echoing with the sounds of the ocean. The mist and the muted light created an atmosphere of mystery and ancient allure, as if stepping through a portal in time.

    Our day of gentle explorations concluded with a return to our cozy cottage by the sea, where we warmed up and reminisced about the unique beauty of the places we had visited. Despite the rain, or perhaps because of it, today offered us a deeper connection to the serene and sometimes wild spirit of Donegal.    Read more

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    Exploring the Inishowen Peninsula

    June 3, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Our final day in the north of Ireland took us on a memorable journey around the Inishowen Peninsula, the northernmost point of the country. This part of Ireland, less traversed by the typical tourist, offered us unique sights and experiences, from dramatic landscapes to charming local spots.

    We began our day by driving through the stunning Mamore Gap. The road through the gap is both thrilling and scenic, with sharp turns and steep inclines that reveal sweeping views of the surrounding hills and the sea beyond. The rugged beauty of this area set the tone for a day of adventure and exploration.

    Next, we stopped at Tullagh Strand, a beautiful beach ideal for a leisurely walk. Awen and Nessy enjoyed the freedom of the wide, open space, running around and playing in the sand and surf. The sound of the waves and the salty air made our stroll rejuvenating and peaceful.

    Continuing our journey, we made a fun detour to Farren's Bar, the northernmost pub in Ireland. There, we enjoyed a relaxing drink, basking in the local ambiance and chatting with some friendly locals, which added a warm, social element to our day.

    Our trip then took us to Malin Head, the pinnacle of our journey around Inishowen. Known for its dramatic cliff walks and as a filming location for major films, Malin Head did not disappoint. The walk along the cliffs offered breathtaking views of the rugged coastline and the vast Atlantic Ocean—a perfect spot for contemplative moments and stunning photographs.

    Before returning to our cottage, we made one last stop at Kinnagoe Bay. The secluded beach, enclosed by hills and cliffs, was the perfect place for a final swim. The tranquil bay, with its clear waters and picturesque setting, was a fitting end to our explorations in the north.

    We concluded our day with a visit to the Inishowen Head Lighthouse, adding another scenic and historical highlight to our adventure. The lighthouse, standing guard over the coastline, provided a serene backdrop as we reflected on our travels.    Read more

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    Visit to Saltee Island

    June 5, 2024 in Ireland

    Our journey yesterday brought us southward from the rugged landscapes of County Donegal to County Wexford, marking the final chapter of our Irish adventure. The trip was predominantly a travel day, but one last highlight awaited—a visit to the enchanting Saltee Islands, a haven for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.

    Leaving Awen and Nessy to relax, I ventured alone to Saltee Island renowned for its significant bird population, including the charming and photogenic puffins. The transfer to the island was a bit rough, thanks to the choppy waters, but the destination proved well worth the journey.

    Upon arriving, I was greeted by the sight of numerous sea birds in their natural habitat. The island is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in Ireland, and for three hours, I had the privilege of observing these fascinating creatures up close. The puffins, with their colorful beaks and curious nature, were particularly delightful to watch and photograph. Their antics and interactions provided endless opportunities for capturing stunning images against the backdrop of the island’s rugged cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean.

    The experience of being so close to such a variety of birds in their undisturbed environment was truly awe-inspiring. The Saltee Islands offer a rare glimpse into a vibrant ecosystem, where life continues largely untouched by human influence.

    As I returned to Wexford, the time spent on Saltee Island felt like a perfect culmination to our extensive exploration of Ireland. It was a poignant reminder of the natural beauty and wildlife that thrives along this country's shores—treasures that, much like the rest of our journey, leave lasting impressions.    Read more

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    Some more Puffins

    June 5, 2024 in Ireland
    Trip end
    June 6, 2024
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