East african adventures

January 2023 - May 2024
Slow living Read more
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  • Day 31

    Garden oasis + shoppers supermarket

    February 8, 2023 in Tanzania

    Last day in Arusha: what to do?
    1) Moved into my hotel room in the city for one night, as I will be catching the bus to Nairobi tomorrow morning, bright and early (7:30am).
    2) Walked to a garden oasis in the middle of the city, Themi living garden, where ladies cook and serve up some delicious, out of this world vegetarian food ( the avocado, pineapple and ginger juice was the bomb)
    3) Finally got the Baujaji ( tanzanian tuk tuk) experience, from clocktower to shoppers supermarket... Need to get some snacks for the bus ride tomorrow
    4) I had to try the supermarket coffee shop chain in Arusha: Kahawa café ( Kahawa means coffee in Swahili). Honestly best supermarket coffee I have ever had.... Yeah take that Migros lolll
    5) Dinner at the hotel ( vegetable soup and chapati) as well as a cold coke (last night, no judging!)
    6) Mentally prepare for Nairobi (and the dreaded border crossing tomorrow... Prayers shall be welcome!)
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  • Day 32

    Unscheduled stop before border

    February 9, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    About an hour into our trip and halfway to the kenyan border, we were stopped by tanzanian police! A fellow traveler has overstayed his permit by 2 days and the tanzanian police did not allow him to leave the country until he regularizes his situation. He is Kenyan, going back to Kenya, but nonetheless he is not allowed to leave. We stayed back with him about over an hour, hoping to convince the policemen, to no avail. He is barely 18 years old, understandably fellow Kenyan passengers did not want to leave one of their own behind! Alas, we had to, after making sure that his dad, who is in Arusha, can come pick him up. The adventure continues!Read more

  • Day 33

    Nairobi is bae!

    February 10, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    As we were exiting the highway to enter downtown Nairobi, I felt the same giddiness as I did when entering New York City. I know the comparison is perhaps a bit much, but when I see skyscrapers and highway bridges, my excitement does not discriminate! While living on a farm for the past 30 days was pure bliss, I now know for a fact that I am just a pure city girl at heart. And boy, what a city Nairobi is!! Bustling, pulsing, breathing, organised chaos and colorfully diverse... Modern to a fault, and undeniably african. While the look was somewhat reminiscent of American cities (well, to me at least!), the feel reminded me more of a "spicy" city like Istanbul. Arusha made me want to retreat, blend in, even their food was understated. Nairobi makes you want to step out and be unapologetically your authentic self... I am digging it! These crazy thoughts were clearly induced by some incredibly delicious and spicy and HOT vegetable stew and honey ginger cinnamon tea... Nairobi is trying to woo me, and as far as I am concerned, Nairobi is bae... My horrendous phone camera and picture taking skills don't nearly do it justice, but I can assure you, this city has got it going on!!!Read more

  • Day 33

    Days 1-7: what have I been up to?

    February 10, 2023 in Kenya

    After a month stay in t banana farm eco hostel in Tanzania, I am relishing the city life in Nairobi. Well, more like the diversity of foods, really!

    First order of business: I moved into my accomodation for the month, a tiny house in the suburbs of Nairobi. A dream come true for the minimalist in me, and a joy to have a full kitchen again, after many weeks without! The place is so serene, I barely want to leave to go anywhere, except to go try out some food of course...

    I happen to live within walking distance of the best fish restaurant in Nairobi apparently. While I am *mostly* vegetarian, I have been known to make an exception for fish under some circumstances, and well the best fish experience in a hipster, industrial style setting seemed worthy of such an exception. So off I went... Step 1: pick a fresh fish from the lake ( fresh, but not alive!), Step 2: they weigh the fish and price it, step 3: they fry it in a pan over an open wooden fire and slather it in some coriander tomato sauce gooeyness, step 4: you take a seat and order sides and sip on some natural sugar cane, lime and ginger juice! The verdict: the sauce and the drink were the real MVPs, the lake fish tasted more bland than the salty fishes from the sea, which I am more used to :-) Ambiance was on point, clearly a well loved local joint!

    The next few days, I organized a dairy and produce delivery from a local farm, and true to my swiss & american ways, I of course tried the locally made (brown's food co) cheddar cheese, cream cheese, greek yoghurt, hummus, artisanal crackers and cinnamon raisin bagels which are all to die for!

    One thing I would say is utterly inconvenient in Nairobi, as is in most African cities (also Dakar for sure), is public transportation. Basically you have a choice between unpractical and dirt cheap, or Taxi/Uber (convenient, but swiss expensive)... Middle class locals solve this problem by getting a car, which is now relatively cheap, but of course translate into condensed traffic. So if you don't want to drive yourself, you are left with two options at extreme ends of the spectrum. On the few days that I left the house, I have spent a minimum of 20chf per trip, just for round trip fare, a far cry from the 24-hour ticket in Zurich which goes for 13chf and gives you access to all of Zurich and suburbs for a full 24 hour period. Understandably one has to be efficient about city trips, and yes so far, I have mostly ended up in one of the many Nairobi malls. Not proud of this 😅 but clearly the most local thing to do here, and surprisingly an excellent way to try out some of the Nairobi food offerings... also most malls here incorporate outside areas so not the typical enclosed experience! So yes, from the many cafés, to Arab/indian influenced restaurants, to Ethiopian take away, I can say my palette has been richly entertained here in Nairobi.

    But it's only been a week, I am now heading to the sea, and when I am back, I fully intent to figure out the accomodation/ public transportation business and get myself more out of the house for authentic fun outside of the malls 😸
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  • Day 41

    Day 8: leaving Nairobi for the sea

    February 18, 2023 in Kenya

    7:51am: getting ready for a 6 hour train ride from Nairobi to Mombassa!!The best part of such journeys: the snacks! And hopefully I also get to spot a few zebras and giraffes here and there... Let's go!!Read more

  • Day 41

    Days 8-15: Kilifi vacation vibes

    February 18, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I have been back in Nairobi for three weeks now! But let me revisit my holidays in Kilifi for memories sake. It took me a while to get to this for many reasons, one of them being sheer laziness, the other being I felt conflicted about the message such photos would convey. Warning: the photos are instagram-worthy, no filter necessary!

    Kilifi is a coastal town in Kenya, along the Indian ocean, about an hour and ½ from Mombassa. It is hot, water and sky are vibrant blue, with miles-long white sandy beaches, right out of a digital nomad’s picture book... I had the immense privilege of staying at a childhood friend’s home, along with her family. For a whole week, I got pampered, treated to the best eats, and lived a worry-free life in a jaw-dropping landscape, the epitome of vacation vibes. It felt like I was taking holidays within my actual holidays, putting my life on hold and enjoying.

     I spent most of the days, lounging on daybeds in a kitesurf camp, indulging in their gourmet food offerings, taking a dip in the Indian ocean, and relishing life! Evenings were spent catching up with my friend and her lovely children and dog, reminiscing about our high school days, taking a trip down memory lane.

    What’s wrong with this picture, you may be asking? Well, the social contrast!

    Kilifi County is indeed one of the poorest counties in Kenya. And at the time, even still now, it has been affected by one of the most severe droughts that Kenya has experienced in recent history. This meant that a few kilometers away from the daybeds I was lounging on, most locals were literally in survival mode!  How to reconcile this within one’s mind? I wish I knew…. So yes the pictures do not tell the full story… and I do not have a solution or a redeeming thought to offer… I am left with the observation, just acknowledging the shadow that accompanied me during my stay. I am back in Nairobi now, these same thoughts still racing in my mind, whenever I go about my “comparatively” privileged life in the city. Of course, we try to adopt fair “practices”: tipping the Uber driver, going to socially conscious cafés, participating to the local economy, smiling and showing appreciation to each and everyone… but how much of it is truly effective, and not just to give oneself a good conscience? Something I am not sure about but I am definitely still meditating on…. 
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