Sandboarding in the Omani Desert

With a belly full of a much-needed lunch it was time to drive into the desert to see a more stereotypical side of Oman. Can you really visit a country in the Middle East without at least a little bit of an adventure into the desert? An hour or so later, we pulled into a mechanic’s shop to deflate the tires, ready for some sand driving. The town edges the northern tip of the Wahiba Sands. Our driver explained that you can drive through the desert for 4.5 hours before you reach the coast on the other side. We were only touching the tip of this enormous desert on today’s adventure. A few minutes later the sealed road of town gave way to the wide-open desert highway — the ultimate choose-your-own adventure.

The driver took us to a “traditional” desert tribe camp. I say that in inverted commas as he also explained that it’s very much for tourists now. We were invited into the tent home, I slipped off my thongs and felt the heat of the sand radiating through the rug floor. We were offered dates and coffee and learned a little about the masks the women wear. Until you’re married you’re maskless — after which you adorn a black mask that I can only describe as half Batman, half plague mask.

We were shown the handicrafts they make and offered the chance to dress as Omanis. I declined the opportunity for cultural appropriation. The British lady got a henna tattoo from the women out in the evening sun. The cute kids kept charge of the cash for their parents and scored themselves a handsome tip from the British couple. Visit and cultural experience complete, we climbed back into the 4WD and headed off the main desert highway into the dunes. Dune bashing is both exciting and terrifying.

Climbing up the dunes we slipped and slid from side to side as our driver navigated the edges — avoiding us getting stuck. He found a spot near the top of the dunes to admire the setting sun. But first — time to try sandboarding. He pulled out two boards, headed up to the top of a nearby dune and demoed how it’s done. I was up next. He suggested I stay low to make it easier… it wasn’t. I tumbled almost immediately in laughter, getting sand in every pocket of my shorts. I hauled back up the dune for a second attempt. I made it a little further, fell off, then got back on to finish a ride. The walk up in the heat was exhausting. I asked when the chairlift was getting installed before my next run.

The British woman and I had a few goes before more 4WDs arrived, dune bashing right over our sandboarding run. I found a quiet spot, sat, and watched the sun set over the sand dunes. While I’ve travelled a lot by myself lately, it’s moments like these where I’d love to be sitting next to a special someone, sharing the view together. Oh, and also having someone I know laugh at me when uncoordinated me tries things like sandboarding!

In the half an hour or so I’d been sitting on the edge of a dune, the wind had blown my footprints away. It was amazing to watch the tiny sand particles skimming across the tops of the dunes like waves — quickly erasing all traces of my existence. The sun dipped below the horizon and it was time for us to make our way back to Muscat. There isn’t really any twilight here — being so close to the equator — once the sun sets, it gets dark quickly. We did some final dune bashing on our way out of the desert. How the driver knew where to go is beyond me. He explained the parties that happen in the desert and the joy he finds camping out here with a few beers at night.

It was about a 2.5-hour drive back into Muscat along the freeway under the dark night sky. What a day! Visiting an oasis and swimming through a canyon in the early afternoon, followed by sandboarding and watching the sun set over the peaceful desert. A great introduction to Oman — a country I’d never really heard much about until now. Back at the hotel, I emptied pocket after pocket of sand from my pants — despite doing this in the desert, they’d somehow refilled themselves. I washed the sand from everywhere and crashed for the night, exhausted after an amazing day out!Read more