Bilbao to Portugalete

This stage was primarily an urban spread. We started the day working our way up the hill overlooking Bilbao, away from the city. We were often out of view of the city, but never out of earshot of the traffic. It was very pleasant. Unfortunately, that didn't last and we walked many miles on city streets. Tomorrow will probably be much of the same. Not our favorite walking, but no mud! Just 12 1/4 miles today. It's still up and down all day, but the elevation has leveled off a lot and it's not as grueling. Also, we are getting stronger and more mentally conditioned to what we're doing. Now when I get somewhere, I have the energy to go out and walk around.

I realized our mindset toward walking had changed when Moriah said, "We don't have much farther to go. I mean, a few miles, but..."

As we were walking through a city today an older man stopped us and asked if we were on the Camino. We told him we were and he began to give us directions. Of course, this was all in Spanish so we weren't certain that's what he was saying. We thanked him and then checked our map and, sure enough, somehow we had gotten off track. It was easy to get back on and we really hadn't gone out of our way, so no harm done. But what a kind man to stop and help us. The way is marked by yellow arrows but some are more clear than others. Usually one or the other of us sees the next one.

We met another older man wearing a Basque beret as we were coming into Portugalete, who proceeded to tell us all the history of the place. He was really enjoying the audience and we only understood a few words!

We are in an albergue again tonight, which is a hostel that is only for pilgrims. We're in a dorm situation and this room has 6 bunks (12 beds). It's co-ed but at least here the bathrooms are not shared, which they were at the other places we stayed. There are three rooms here so I don't know why they don't have one as all women, one as all men, and one for those that get here last. Of course, I don't run the place and no one asked me!

In case anyone is interested, my blisters are turning into callouses.Read more