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Camino del Norte
  • Susan James

Camino del Norte

A 43-day adventure by Susan Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 3, 2024
  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    France

    September 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Malachi and Carissa arrived from Bulgaria in the late afternoon to walk the first week with us. We walked over the bridge into France to say that we started there.
    We ate later at a Kabab place and Malachi realized they were Pakistani and had a friendly conversation with them! Who would have expected that?!Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    San Sebastian

    September 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We had a really tiring first day. We started out in pouring rain which lasted for quite a while and then rained off and on the rest of the day. The trail going out of Irun was basically a stream... a steep stream. There was a lot of elevation gain, and then loss as we came back to sea level. Fortunately this is not at high altitude. Our reading led us to believe this would be 14 or 15 miles. Our GPS said it was 18.6, so a much longer day than we had expected, both in distance and time. Arriving at our hostel, I couldn't find our passports (Moriah's and mine) and a great deal of cash of mine. We called back to where we had stayed last night but my "pouch" wasn't there. It was very stressful for me, but I finally found where I had put it to be sure everything would stay dry, which wasn't the place I had decided to always keep it. It was the last place I looked! 😊 We are all tired but are waiting for our laundry to come out of the dryer. Having clean clothes will make us all feel better. Tomorrow should be a shorter day, but of course, as we found out, that's not for certain! Unfortunately, we're getting to bed late. I'm too tired to post pictures.

    Just so the people who are reading this know, this was intended to be my own journal, so you may find this boring or "too much information." If that's the case, just quit reading it!    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    Zarautz

    Sep 6–10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    These first two photos are from yesterday, the last is from today.

    We walked about 14 miles today, so shorter and not as strenuous. It rained today, but not as hard as yesterday and not all day. We had trouble finding cheaper accommodations, so are staying in a hostel right on the beach. That's the last picture. This evening we were shopping and came upon a group performing traditional Basque music and dancing. Apparently it's a Basque holiday.

    Tired and sore, but doing fine. It's late again and we have an early morning. Good night!    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    From Zarautz to Deba

    Sep 7–11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Last night when I went to bed I figured I'd be crippled this morning, but actually felt fine when I got up. We left our hostel at about 6:30 this morning in the dark. My intention was to be on the path every morning by about 6:00, but it's too dark. We had a beautiful walk along the beach and coastline, then began to climb. It was a beautiful, sunny day without rain, but still very muddy and slippery on the coastal alternate route we took. This day was about 15 miles, and we were pressed to get to Deba as quickly as possible because the albergue did not take reservations and it was the only option in town. We pushed pretty hard and skipped the second alternate route to try and get beds before it filled up. Every time another Pilgrim past us I thought to myself "There goes another bed." When we got to the bottom of the very steep descent into town, we realized there was an elevator we could have taken! We are worn out and sore... but we did get beds. Deba also had a pipe and drum group marching and playing for the holiday. I'm glad we got in on these festivities.

    I'm reminding myself that I need more food, more water and more sleep. I'm going to take care of that last one right now!    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    Markina-Xemein to Gernika

    September 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    After Deba, we had left the sea for a few days. I had assumed that this coastal route was up and down simply because it was a rugged coast, sort of like Oregon. However, this is actually a mountainous area and we've been going up and down over them continually, and today was no exception. It was a good day with a little rain off and on, but no big downpour. We walked about 16 and a half miles and got to Gernika at about 4:00. Our mileage is always a bit more than what the route says. We're not sure if that's because of different GPS readings or because we measure it from one accommodation to the next. This has been my best day yet in terms of how I feel. I actually arrived in Gernika with enough energy to go out and about. (We ate Basque pintxos for the first time!) I was interested in seeing some of the town because of the reading I had done about the tragedy just before world war II. It's an interesting mix of old architecture that survived the bombing, and the new buildings that have been built up since then.

    The statue of the guitar player is posted here specially for Benjamin.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    Gernika to Bilbao

    September 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    The mud here is unbelievable. It sucks your feet down and doesn't want to let go. It's also extremely slippery. Moriah pointed out that it could be worse, because it could be pouring rain. Much as we prefer to be in the woods and the countryside on paths, occasionally it's pleasant to get back to that hard, body-pounding pavement.

    From the pictures you can see that we are definitely in Basque country and that emotions still run high.

    Because of the scarcity of accommodations in Lezama, we took a bus into Bilbao where we able to make reservations for a private room in a hostel. Sometimes we have found private rooms, but twice we have been in dormitory rooms, and there will be more of those to come. We arrived about 2:30 after having walked about 14 miles. We have cleaned up and when our laundry is done, we will go out to get something to eat and also to walk to the Guggenheim Museum.

    We left Malachi and Carissa this morning in Gernika, and they took the train to Bilbao to spend the day together before heading back to Bulgaria. We may catch up with them this evening. Moriah and I both sent stuff with them in order to lighten our packs. I knew I had way too much weight, but didn't think I could do without anything. It turns out I can when the other choice is carrying it!    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Can you find the yellow arrow?Sunrise over Bilbao

    Bilbao to Portugalete

    September 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    This stage was primarily an urban spread. We started the day working our way up the hill overlooking Bilbao, away from the city. We were often out of view of the city, but never out of earshot of the traffic. It was very pleasant. Unfortunately, that didn't last and we walked many miles on city streets. Tomorrow will probably be much of the same. Not our favorite walking, but no mud! Just 12 1/4 miles today. It's still up and down all day, but the elevation has leveled off a lot and it's not as grueling. Also, we are getting stronger and more mentally conditioned to what we're doing. Now when I get somewhere, I have the energy to go out and walk around.

    I realized our mindset toward walking had changed when Moriah said, "We don't have much farther to go. I mean, a few miles, but..."

    As we were walking through a city today an older man stopped us and asked if we were on the Camino. We told him we were and he began to give us directions. Of course, this was all in Spanish so we weren't certain that's what he was saying. We thanked him and then checked our map and, sure enough, somehow we had gotten off track. It was easy to get back on and we really hadn't gone out of our way, so no harm done. But what a kind man to stop and help us. The way is marked by yellow arrows but some are more clear than others. Usually one or the other of us sees the next one.

    We met another older man wearing a Basque beret as we were coming into Portugalete, who proceeded to tell us all the history of the place. He was really enjoying the audience and we only understood a few words!

    We are in an albergue again tonight, which is a hostel that is only for pilgrims. We're in a dorm situation and this room has 6 bunks (12 beds). It's co-ed but at least here the bathrooms are not shared, which they were at the other places we stayed. There are three rooms here so I don't know why they don't have one as all women, one as all men, and one for those that get here last. Of course, I don't run the place and no one asked me!

    In case anyone is interested, my blisters are turning into callouses.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    Portugalete to Castro Urdiales

    September 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    (Our internet was weak last night and wouldn't load this, so it's a day late.)

    This was a miserable day. It poured most of the time we were walking and we both arrived literally soaked to the skin. So much for my brand new Columbia ("waterproof") raincoat. This was probably the hardest rain we've had this entire trip, and there were torrents of water running down gullies along the path. The streams we passed were very swollen and rushing hard. We were cold and miserable. It was about 60 degrees. We took a shorter alternate route which was on the side of the highway, and some guides advised against it because of the danger. We were not planning to do it, but spoke to a Spanish couple who told us it was fine. They said they have walked all over Spain along roads. I wanted to make sure it was not going to be the expressway that we could see ahead. The woman said "Oh, no, no, no! High speeds!" We followed the road for about 4 miles with no trouble, and that was better than adding 6 miles to our day or bussing those 4 miles. We arrived wet, cold, and ready for our private room and hot showers. We're hoping everything will dry by tomorrow.

    The scenery today would have been breathtaking today had it not been for the weather. As it is, we took very few pictures because it was raining so hard we didn't want to ruin our phones having them out.

    One thing we have noted since our arrival here is that more people are outside doing activities than where we live. There are people biking, running, pushing strollers and walking. Even today in the pouring rain there were local people out taking their walks. They seem more fit than Americans, but they do smoke like chimneys. In Bilbao at 6:00 p.m. we saw families out in the park. The children were playing on the playground and all the adults were socializing.

    We walked 17 and a half miles today    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Leaving in the morning with headlamps
    Laredo sunset

    Castro-Urdiales to Laredo

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Our day started out in the dark with a light rain, but the rain didn't last and the day was beautiful. The views made up for yesterday. Part way through the day, we took the official route, which routed us up into the hills and away from the coast. The alternate route followed the highway and was the shortest distance to Laredo. We were only going 15 miles to Liendo, so we were glad to be away from the highway and other pilgrims. When we arrived there, it was only 1:30 and there was nothing to do the rest of the day since it was a small village. We both felt fine, so we continued on, planning to take a shortcut ("only in good weather") to Laredo. We figured 19 miles total. Instead it was 20.7, factoring in the trouble we had in the city getting to our hotel. By the time we arrived, I had cramps up the backs of both my legs, from calves to thighs. I am in pain, so we'll wait until morning to decide how far to go. I think we'll sleep in.

    We have a beautiful view overlooking the city from the balcony in our room.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler

    Laredo to Güemes

    September 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We slept in this morning until 7:00, which seemed luxurious. I found I could actually walk, though I was sore. We started the morning walking about 2 miles on the beach. It was a beautiful day, no rain at all, and we walked 17.5 miles to a pilgrim hostel that the books all say is a "must", so we wanted to see what it was all about. I thought it might be faith-based (Catholic), but was actually a Utopian commune-type place. At 7:30 everyone had to go listen to the 87 year old founder explaining their history and philosophy, all in Spanish. Every 5 minutes or so a translator would give a one sentence translation. This went on for over an hour. Afterwards we had a pleasant and delicious pilgrim dinner. Moriah pointed out that it was like the rescue mission where you have to listen to the sermon before you can eat! It has made a late night for us and we're not used to this.

    The founder pointed out that he was the oldest person in the room, but that there was one person 70 years old. That was me! At least I didn't have to stand up or anything! 🙄    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Our albergue from last night
    Another of our albergueStarting on our dayChocolate and curious! Lydia told me to be sure to try some here. It won't be the last time!The ferry from Somo to Santander

    Güemes to Santander

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We had a another beautiful day today. Very sunny, and the terrain has eased up the past few days, so less strenuous for us. We took an easier day today and called it our rest day, even though we walked almost 11 miles. ☺️ It's all relative now! Had we gone on to the next reasonable place with accommodations, it would have added several miles to our day and we need to give our bodies a rest from the 15-20 mile days. We did take an alternate coastal route which was a bit longer, but well worth the detour. Spectacular views. We are currently a day ahead of our tentative schedule. We arrived in Santander at 1:45 but, unlike Liendo, there were things to do here. We ate out, shopped for tomorrow's groceries, and rested in our hostel (private room for two.)

    Two days ago I lost my sunglasses. It's irritating because I only bought these big bug-eye glasses because they had clips with them. I have another clip at home, but that doesn't do me any good on this trip. I'm more upset to lose the case, because it was Nathan's. It was the perfect size and shape so I just brought it, never dreaming I would lose it.

    Yesterday at the pilgrim's hostel, two other people put their laundry in the washer and dryer with ours. When it came out of the dryer everyone just picked their own clothes and left. Later I was walking down the path and the young fellow who had shared the washer with us handed me my underwear and said, " Pretty sure not mine." How embarrassing.

    Camino trivia:
    If you have bony clavicles and want to carry a pack, let me recommend 1/2 of a magic eraser under each shoulder strap.

    We have seen lots of trees that were very interesting but didn't know what they were. Walking with a man from Australia, he told us they were gum trees (just like in the kookaburra song.) He said they were introduced to Spain by the Australians and are now considered an invasive plant. The things you learn!    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Sharing a Napolian
    Hotel Rural la Joyuca del PasMoriah's right at home!A short afternoon walk

    Santander to Mogro

    September 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Today was a pleasant, sunny day. There was nothing particularly noteworthy except that just before we got here to Mogro we had to take a train for 2 miles. In years past, pilgrims would walk across a short stretch of railway bridge, but because of the danger it is no longer allowed. Instead, the short ride is free for pilgrims. We were happy to take it! Somehow we had miscalculated our distance today, and arrived at noon after only about 8 and 1/2 miles. We had expected just under 15. Therefore, today really became a rest day. The place we are staying is a wonderful place to relax for much of a day. We are still a full day ahead of tentative plan, so it didn't matter. Moriah found it online, and when we got here she said "This is everything I had thought it would be." This is a 200-year-old stone house with hardwood floors, heavy overhead beams, and staircases going up and turning in odd places. It is decorated accordingly and is the neatest place we have stayed. We're not suffering here! They even did our laundry for free. 😊 We're getting spoiled and are not ready to return to albergues!

    Camino trivia:
    All along the Camino we have seen a vine similar to kudzu in the Southern United States, but with a different flower. I imagine it's a similar plant, and is obviously as invasive and destructive as kudzu.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Eating breakfast and saying goodbye to our hotel casa rural.
    You can see behind Moriah that not everything we pass is beautiful.Lunch in Santillana del Mar

    Mogro to Oreña

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We left our lovely accommodations at about 7:15 this morning. It was hard to leave, since we felt so pampered! We had a good walk today, almost 13 miles in nice weather. It threatened rain in the afternoon but never materialized. Some of the time we were on bigger roads through towns, and some of the time we were on small quiet roads in the countryside. I have included a picture to show that not everything along the way is picturesque. We picked up a friend along the way, Laura from Canada, and had lunch with her in Santillana del Mar. Santillana is a pretty town with old architecture and cobblestone streets, at least the ones we walked. Laura told us it is often used for movies. It is definitely a tourist destination, and is pretty crowded. This is a logical place to stop, but we had chosen to go on a little farther to Oreña. We had a lovely hotel awaiting us, and Laura inquired as to whether they had a room for her also. As it turned out, the young receptionist finagled things so that we had a room for four at no extra charge. The only downside is that there was no hot water! (Unknown by the hotel people.) It was a bracing, fast shower. 😳Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Iglesias de San Pedro, from the 16th century.
    We walked a good bit of cobblestones.San Vicente de La Bauquera

    Oreña to San Vicente de la Barquera

    September 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    As seems to happen, today was a longer day that we expected. Somehow our long days are longer and our short days are shorter than we estimate. We knew we were planning a long day today but didn't expect it to be 20 miles. My intention when I planned this trip was to have our stages be between 12 and 15 miles each day. The problem is that Spain has not put its towns in the right places! The day was beautiful and very sunny and though it was up and down all the way, it was not extreme. We walked some in the countryside, but mostly along the coast. By the time we got to San Vicente, eating places had quit serving the light, afternoon meals, and dinner here doesn't start until 7:30 or 8:00, at which point we are usually winding down our day. So after showering and doing some laundry, we went to the grocery store and bought some microwave dinners to cook in our room. Not exactly the Spanish food experience, but it fed us. We have a hostel with a private room and bath, and it is clean and sufficient. Moriah did point out that we dropped down a star or two in our accommodations. It is perfectly fine, but it's not up to the standard "to which we have become accustomed." The last couple nights definitely spoiled us!

    We have officially walked for 2 weeks today, and we passed the 200 mile mark.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    1Starting the day, getting back to the route.
    The Tower of Estrada, dating from the 8th century. (Obviously under some renovation.)The "Not wildlife".1Beans and sausage1Fish soup.

    San Vicente de la Barquera to El Parel

    September 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today was about a 12 mile day to make up for yesterday's long day. It's a good thing it wasn't longer, because I now have plantar fasciitis. Having been through that, I don't need an official diagnosis. I had been taking Aleve for my knee and decided to cut back and see if I still needed it, so it's possible I already had the problem but it was being covered up. Today I went to the farmicea and picked up a high dosage, once-a-day equivalent and hopefully I'll be able to walk in the morning.

    It was another beautiful day. The temperature only gets up to about 71°, but with our exertion we get quite warm. We also need to be careful about getting sunburned. It's obvious we're in the northern hemisphere walking west, because it's our left arms that are getting the most sun!

    We have commented repeatedly that we haven't seen much in the way of wildlife. We have seen lots of small geckos and large slugs, but that's about it. Today we saw two emus in someone's yard, but I don't think that qualifies as wildlife!

    Jeremiah chided us for eating so much Pakistani food while in Spain, and rightfully so. Today we stopped along the way and Moriah ate a bean and sausage "dish" and I ate fish soup. Both were delicious and I hope Jeremiah's happy now.

    Again tonight we are in a private room with bath. We really don't need anything extravagant, but we do like the privacy and freedom to spread out. We will stay in albergues when it's necessary and we would like to stay one night in a monastery for the experience.

    That's all for now. We agreed together to just stay in this room for the rest of the day and relax. There's nothing to do around here anyway.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    1Heading out.
    EmpanadasIt was very hazy and the fog started rolling in. Rain tomorrow.2

    El Peral to Póo

    September 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    The day started out very difficult for me as I could barely walk. I took my heavy-duty Aleve and then I added Tylenol throughout the day, and that improved matters greatly. I decided not to walk the whole distance simply because I didn't want to push it too much, and planned to take a bus from Andrīn to keep my mileage under 15 miles. However, when we got there, we realized that the bus stop was actually a 45 minute walk in the wrong direction. So I kept walking. I tried to take a taxi or bus from Llanes but would have had over an hour and a half wait for either one. So I kept walking. It was 16 and 1/2 miles to Póo, and actually I did fine but hope it doesn't affect tomorrow. By the way, Póo is pronounced like Edgar Allan Poe not like what is in a baby's diaper.

    When I couldn't get transportation in Llanes I saw a "churros con chocolate" sign and thought that would cheer me up, but the shop was closed. Then we saw a gelato stand and I figured that would cheer me up, and it did!

    We had another quiet evening doing nothing. Tomorrow is only a 12 mile day and I'm hoping for the best.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    3My favorite daughter.
    2So unexpected!

    Póo to Cuerres

    September 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We started out expecting rain but it waited until about 30 minutes after we arrived at our accommodations. It was overcast and hazy all day, but a nice day for walking. We got free breakfast at our hostel (unusual) before setting out and we walked about 13.5 miles.

    I'm so glad I have Moriah with me. She takes care of all our arrangements and serves as my personal tour guide. When we started out, a man recommended a different app than what we were using, and Malachi picked up on that quickly. Moriah took over the responsibility when he left, and though I'm sure I could do it all now, it's just easier to let her find things. It has made things less stressful... for me, anyway!

    It's interesting buying medications here. No over-the-counter stuff is out on shelves, but you must go through the pharmacist. I bought Tylenol today and she would only sell me one box of 10 tablets.

    It's also interesting what people drive on. When you think you are on a walking/biking path, a car will drive up behind you. Today it was so narrow that when we squeezed over to the edge in the bushes I was afraid the side view mirror was going to brush against me. The next car just waited till we got down off the path before trying to go by.

    You know those little lending libraries we have in neighborhoods in the states? We saw one out in the woods which I guess was the Spanish equivalent. There's a picture below.

    I believe it must be a rule on the Camino that all pilgrims must go up at least one flight of stairs to get to their rooms. I guess it "builds character".

    Doing laundry here is different than we expected. We planned to wash our clothes everyday when we arrived and showered, and put on the next day's clean clothes. However, it's so cool and so humid that our clothes are not drying by morning. It has become a bit tricky.

    Our accommodations tonight are in a neat old house outside town. Perhaps it was the family's house, because our twin beds still have Care Bear bedspreads. Because we are more isolated (which actually makes it quite peaceful) we don't have places to eat, so we will eat the evening meal here. It's a big meal and more expensive than we usually spend, but we were wanting to experience one of these meals, so this is our opportunity. Everything is served late here. Dinner was supposed to begin at 8:00, but they are accommodating us and letting us eat at 6:00 which is very kind of them. We don't like eating late, we go to bed early, plus we are very hungry!

    I didn't want everything I wrote here to be about my foot problems, but I will end with a little report. The first couple hours of the day I hobble until my medications kick in. I'm determined to try not to walk more than 15 miles. Even at that rate, I'm sure every day I walk is making this worse. I'll try to complete what I've started, but I must show some wisdom in this. I may have to bus some even though I wanted to walk the whole thing.

    We just got back from eating our big dinner. After the soup and some stew with bread he was taking our plates and the bowl away. I was afraid that was it except the dessert so I was taking more when he pointed to the plate underneath and said "pollo". He then brought chicken, fried potatoes, and salad. Then dessert. I'm stuffed, but I got my money's worth. Chris from Australia joined us and, like us, was thrilled to be able to eat before 8:00.

    My foot is swollen tonight. This is not good.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    1111

    Cuerres to La Isla

    September 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Moriah has really outdone herself this time! I don't know how she found these accommodations within our budget but I feel like we're at the Ritz. She gets five stars as a tour guide.

    We decided yesterday that I would walk part way and bus the rest rather than do a 15+ mile day. We left our accommodations at about 7:30 so that it would be lighter, and took a coastal alternative route that was spectacular. Moriah had read about something up on the coast that was a must-see, but the translation said it was a place to contemplate the buffoons of Pria. We laughed and laughed about that, wondering what on earth it could mean and why we would want to contemplate buffoons anyway! Then we saw a sign for the Bufones de Pria. We looked it up and learned that they are water spouts up on the cliffs where the waves from the ocean burst through rock formations causing water to shoot in the air. Last night we watched a video of them and it was amazing, but because the ocean was so calm we were told there would be nothing to see. We went that route anyway and though we saw nary a buffoon, we did see some gorgeous sights. https://youtu.be/YtrzpvVcGRE?si=wsi_NO8Mw_E8ebak

    We walked about 7 miles to Villaviciosa and then took a bus the rest of the way to La Isla, to keep from aggravating my foot any more. My tendency is just to mask the pain and push through, but my ankle is swelling and I probably need to use good judgement. Moriah bussed with me, as she was uncomfortable leaving me (it was 2 hours till the next - and only - bus). We ate there and did our grocery shopping. We were dropped of just a short distance from our accommodations.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    1
    1Pretty nice graffiti!2Sorry Isaiah, Wall Drug was not listed!1At the rest stop (same place as the previous and following picture)2This was at a pilgrim refreshment stand in someone's yard. Vending machines, water and seats to rest

    La Isla to Villaviciosa

    September 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We walked about 13 miles today. It was a nice day through some pretty countryside, but nothing was particularly noteworthy.

    We are settled in a hostel and are washing and drying all our clothes, which is really a treat. I can't say our clothes have been overly clean with the hand washing, but everyone around us is just as stinky, so I guess it doesn't matter!

    This hostel is the first place we have not had blankets. We sent our sleeping bags with Malachi and Carissa and kept their sleep sacks/liners to save weight. Tonight we will sleep in a couple layers of clothes.

    Tomorrow is proving to be tricky. That stage was supposed to be 18 miles, but I don't think I should do that, so we are breaking it into two short days. We are two days ahead of schedule, and this is what those wiggle days are for.    Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    2The view out our window when we left this morning.
    1The view out our window when we arrived in Gijón.2I was fearful this was Tang when they brought it to me, but it was definitely freshly squeezed!This sand carving greeted upon our arrival. It was probably 10 ft across.

    Villaviciosa to Gijón

    September 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    This day did not end up being what we expected. Moriah went to bed chilled and probably with a fever, covered with two layers of clothes, a sleep sack, both our raincoats, my down jacket, and both our towels. She still didn't feel great this morning, so we decided to take a real rest day instead of a 9-mile-walk rest day. We took a morning bus to Gijón and arrived 3 hours before we could get into our accommodations. (Had we known we were going to take a rest day, we would have come here last night and booked the place for two nights. But, of course, we didn't make that decision until this morning.) We have an apartment and, although it's not fancy, it's just what we needed. We were even able to do some cooking and make our own dinner. We spent some time walking on the beach and our day was very low-key and restful. Tomorrow will be a 15 mile day.Read more

  • Susan JamesCamino del NorteTraveler
    Leaving Gijón.
    Leaving Gijón.Moriah's Camino shell!2For all my friends in Iowa!1Another little lending library.Exhausted!2The nicest podiatrist in all of Spain.

    Gijón to Avilés

    September 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    This was an interesting day. Our 15 mile walk turned into 17.3 miles. That was more than I was determined to do again, plus Moriah is still not feeling well. We crashed when we got here and then we went out to eat. After that we stopped at a podiatrist to look at my feet. No, it's not the plantar fasciitis, it's my toenails that are really ugly. I showed him my feet and told him I was on the Camino and we never even sat down. He just took us back to take care of them. They are damaged and infected and if I were not on the Camino he would remove the toenails. Instead, he took a little more conservative approach. Just before leaving, I mentioned in passing that I also had PF! 🤪 Then we went and I bought some shoes.

    Moriah finally found a Camino shell for her backpack in Gijón. In the middle ages people would return home with a shell to prove they had completed their pilgrimage (at least, that's one story.) Now, it is traditional to carry one on the walk. I bought one in Bilbao, but she waited to find a smaller one, and we haven't seen them since... until now.

    Pilgrims greet one another with "Buen Camino" (good walk/way) but it's especially nice when townspeople greet us that way. One older man went on and on in Spanish even after we told him several times we didn't speak Spanish. Then he indicated with gestures that he was praying for us. That communicated!    Read more

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